View Full Version : Callies crank freeze plug leaking?


Snyper
06-29-2012, 01:45 AM
I've been chasing a mystery oil leak for some time now. First time I took the clutch out I noticed oil in the pilot bearing area and from there it spread around. I thought I was the rear main so I replaced it and same problem. I shut the car off and within a few minutes there is a fist size puddle of oil coming from the transmission. I removed everything tonight and the rear main was bone dry but in the center of the flywheel it was soaked with oil. I'm guessing this is the freeze plug? It looks perfectly seated in there and it's brand new. Can I just put some JB weld around the whole plug let it dry and run it? Does this thing see oil pressure?

LS1MCSS
06-29-2012, 03:28 AM
If the crank is new, I would call Callies and talk to them about it. Chances are good that the jb weld would work, but I would talk to the manufacturer about the leak first.

Jontall
06-29-2012, 06:35 AM
I've always said they should thread the hole and use a socket head plug in the back of the crankshaft. The welch plug is too easily knocked out of position. You need to carefully remove the plug now and install a new one. Gently drill a hole in the center of the plug, thread a sheet metal screw in and pull it out. (Don't push the plug in.) Call Callies and get the plug they use because plug diameters can vary slightly. Check the plug bore carefully for dents/gouges/scratches because some people will use a screwdriver to knock the plug sideways to get the old one out.

Snyper
06-29-2012, 06:39 AM
So JB weld won't work?

Jeremy@RPMTransmissions
06-29-2012, 07:45 AM
We have had the same problem here. We replaced the plug and used some loctite retaining compound around the plug to help seal it from leaking.

Che70velle
06-29-2012, 05:47 PM
Forget the plug. Take it out, and silicone the hole full. We do this before the install, when all is clean and dry. Never leaks in our circle track engines.

S10xGN
06-29-2012, 07:11 PM
Forget the plug. Take it out, and silicone the hole full. We do this before the install, when all is clean and dry. Never leaks in our circle track engines.

:huh: You've got nothing but a plug of silicone holding 70# oil pressure? :eek: :eek:

Che70velle
06-30-2012, 02:17 PM
:huh: You've got nothing but a plug of silicone holding 70# oil pressure? :eek: :eek:

Yeah, I had the same thoughts when I saw a siliconed crank for the first time. It holds. It's actually a lot of silicone. I know 2 high end engine builders that use ths method.

Snyper
06-30-2012, 02:24 PM
Why would there be oil pressure in the center of the crank shaft?

S10xGN
06-30-2012, 08:31 PM
Why would there be oil pressure in the center of the crank shaft?

How do the rods get oiled? Trace those passages back and you'll see...

Snyper
06-30-2012, 09:09 PM
Well when I checked the crank seal it looked fine. I jb welds the shit out of it and the leak is still there. I saw oil on the top middle of the trans when I took it out but see no source of leaks at all from the back.

Jeremy@RPMTransmissions
06-30-2012, 09:51 PM
Did you put sealant on your flexplate/flywheel bolts? They are drilled all the way through the rear crank flange and can seep oil.

RezinTexas
07-01-2012, 07:03 AM
How do the rods get oiled? Trace those passages back and you'll see...

on my K1 crank, the oiling passages do not intersect with the gun-drilled mains. Others may be different, of course.

Che70velle
07-01-2012, 01:42 PM
I haven't seen a crankshaft where the gundrilled mains affect oiling passages, not to say that it hasn't been tried. There would be no oil pressure to the rods if the oil passages crossed through the gun drilling in this manner. Now gun drilled pins, that's totally different. The pins have to be angle drilled, to miss the oil passages. Gun drilled mains were developed to promote scavenging, and vacuum. The weight savings were an added bonus.

http://www.precisionenginetech.com/tech-explained/2009/06/02/forged-crankshaft-tech-part-2/

Snyper
07-01-2012, 07:44 PM
Oil is definitely coming from the freeze plug. I Put the uv dye in and took everything apart and it was coming from the middle of the crank even after the jb weld. I guess I'll call Callies tomorrow and see what they suggest. The plug itself looked fine and wasn't damaged. Rear main is dry along with the rear timing cover and I had permatexed the flywheel bolts.

highlanderd
07-02-2012, 07:25 AM
I've always said they should thread the hole and use a socket head plug in the back of the crankshaft. The welch plug is too easily knocked out of position. You need to carefully remove the plug now and install a new one. Gently drill a hole in the center of the plug, thread a sheet metal screw in and pull it out. (Don't push the plug in.) Call Callies and get the plug they use because plug diameters can vary slightly. Check the plug bore carefully for dents/gouges/scratches because some people will use a screwdriver to knock the plug sideways to get the old one out.

So what happens if you knock it in? Mine got all mangled when I tried the hole/screw method... Do you have to drill it out and get the shavings out of the oil pan?

delphigto
07-02-2012, 08:03 AM
My lunati crank did the same thing. There is no oil pressure on it. Just crankcase pressure. I tried everything and finally pushed it out into the pan and pulled the pan off.

highlanderd
07-02-2012, 08:12 AM
How did you seal the new one?

S10xGN
07-31-2012, 07:26 PM
Just to revisit this, I finally got a chance to look at a stock crank. The rear crank freeze plug does NOT intersect anything that sees oil pressure, so any leakage would be strictly from oil slinging or crankcase pressure...