Generation IV Internal Engine - How does everyone break in their new engines ? lets discuss

Whats the best way to break in my new 402 ? was planning on using joe gibbs break in oil first few hundred miles then switching to ???

thanks

I broke in my home assembled 402 with cheap 20/50 wt Walmart oil for 30 minutes.then switched to castrol gtx 20/50 and drove like a grandma for 250 miles and changed it.drove another 250 miles" easy on the throttle"changed it then it was balls to the wall action! Iam very pleased with the power.here is the first car I put it in.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Um2OHStVbqM

FWIW I would check with whoever built the engine for you and follow their routine in case you have any issues. The last thing you want is to have a problem and them tell you to go pound sand because you "broke it in wrong" when you may have used a suitable method but not the one they think is the "right way".

+1 on following the recommendations from your builder bud.

I would definitely recommend the use of the Joe gibbs oil, it has the additives need to help properly seal the rings. We like to use it for the first 500 miles or so, after that we move to valvoline VR1.

Id just use regular cheap oil, im not a believer of all those additives. Put in the cheap regular oil, take out the spark plugs and turn the motor over til the oil pressure is up. reinstall plugs and fire it up. Let it get up to temp and run it like a raped ape!! change it again after 100 miles, and put ya synthetic in after 500 miles

hey TSP dont you recommend running conventional ? like VR1 20-50 ?

my guy told me dont be TO easy on it you want the rings to break in as fast as possible...and he also said do alot of decels on hills

I heard the same thing. The rings need to seat fairly quickly and babying it isn't going to make that happen.

what im doing

joe gibbs for first 100 miles including startup and 4 heat cycles

after 100 miles

royal purple race and start easing the rpms up to 3500-5000 untill 350-500 miles

swap the oil again


then

put it on a dyno.

dont forget to fill up the oil filter before installing .


melling makes a great oil primer. you can make your own as well, or pull the plugs and fuel and just use the starter to turn over the motor. until you register pressure. i like the idea of an external prime because the oil is already there on the cylinder walls etc......before they even move a single MM

do what i said do and youll be ok

LS3 crate engine.
Change sump, cam, valve springs etc.
Fit engine to Monaro.
Drive onto dyno and run engine in under load.

After 500km (~300miles) drop oil and fill with Castrol Edge 10w-60.:judge:

You are supposed to run it hard with a lot of engine breaking to seat the rings. If you baby it there is a high chance of the rings not seating correctly.

http://faststreetcars.com/imgs/breakin.jpg

Well the guys doing my engine install are install engine, run over to get oil pressure once that's good run it for 10 mins then if all is well strapping to the dyno and let it rock and roll but mine is a performance engine not a stock crate engine I talk to builder once dyno is done take it to the strip and let it rip.

There is no no such thing as BREAK IN Anymore! The term was for the old Molly Rings that took time to seat! the rings we have now seat Immediately!

Id just use regular cheap oil, im not a believer of all those additives. Put in the cheap regular oil, take out the spark plugs and turn the motor over til the oil pressure is up. reinstall plugs and fire it up. Let it get up to temp and run it like a raped ape!! change it again after 100 miles, and put ya synthetic in after 500 miles

I've broken all my engines in this way but, with a slight difference. For the first 3k miles drive it like you stole it (in a somewhat law abiding manner lol) changing the oil at 500 and 1k miles then swapping to whatever oil I'm gonna run and you can drive normal after that. They've never let me down, consumed oil, smoked, or made noises. They've all ran like scolded dogs though.

I know everyone has their preferences but, this has always worked for me so I won't change it.

I always use regular Castrol 5 w 30 for brake in and ran what ever needs, to get everything done including road tuning and testing, then we take the car to the dyno with same oil after the dyno we change oil, and car is ready to go.

The reason for Castrol is one of best regular oils, up there in quality with many synthetics while still allowing the brake in to take place with trust worthy protection, I know cause after taking an engine apart which made over 1,100 foot lbs of torque the main and rod bearings look like they never seen the crank.

First drive i use joe gibbs run her jard for a few hours. Change it to 20w-50 conv. For 500 miles then 500 miles 20w50. Then switched to synthetic 15w40 for 1000 then i did normal 3k ish oil changes. Use conv oil to break it in at first. And give her hell dont pussy foot it.

There are two schools of thought on this.
A. Baby it for the first 500-1000miles
B. Beat the shit out of it

Given either option should only be done after a proper heat cycle has been done for the valvetrain and changing the oil after you do so.

Personally I will drive it easy for 10 miles or so then beat the hell out of it. After the first oil change IMO its good to change it at 500 miles.

There's someone on here, can't remember who it is, says to change the oil like every 100 miles or so for the first 1000 miles which IMO is pretty damn excessive.

I've never seen that GM performance parts document. That's good to know.

If the engine isn't run HARD for its first 2-3 miles after being built....the rings might not, and probably won't.....seat properly. Then you will have an oil burner forever and less power forever.
Thats why every LSx engine as well as all engines from all manufacturers get put on a dyno and run hard before they get installed into the cars. Leave it up to the customer and they'll have 100's of thousands of people coming back with oil burning issues.

Doesn't matter what kind of rings you're using.....CROSS HATCHING ONLY LASTS FOR A VERY SHORT TIME....the rings must get seated in that time, otherwise you're screwed.


If you want to drive it easy after the proper "BREAK-IN" time of the first 2-3 miles......have at it.

Engine break-in regarding cylinder walls and rings = HARD RUNS immediately
Total engine break-in = oil changes at 50, 100, 150, 200, 300, 500 and then 1000 miles. Then every 3,000 from there. (You MUST keep the engine as clean as possible to protect all the bearings of metal shavings that are shed in the first 500 miles. Its a lot.)

Heat-cycling an engine....its a myth and a misunderstanding. No such thing, it does nothing.

This is how its done.
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

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Heat-cycling an engine....its a myth and a misunderstanding. No such thing, it does nothing.

This is how its done.
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

.

What about the valvetrain? Not many people I know of use the same valve springs from their old motor.

If the engine isn't run HARD for its first 2-3 miles after being built....the rings might not, and probably won't.....seat properly. Then you will have an oil burner forever and less power forever.
Thats why every LSx engine as well as all engines from all manufacturers get put on a dyno and run hard before they get installed into the cars. Leave it up to the customer and they'll have 100's of thousands of people coming back with oil burning issues.

Doesn't matter what kind of rings you're using.....CROSS HATCHING ONLY LASTS FOR A VERY SHORT TIME....the rings must get seated in that time, otherwise you're screwed.


If you want to drive it easy after the proper "BREAK-IN" time of the first 2-3 miles......have at it.

Engine break-in regarding cylinder walls and rings = HARD RUNS immediately
Total engine break-in = oil changes at 50, 100, 150, 200, 300, 500 and then 1000 miles. Then every 3,000 from there. (You MUST keep the engine as clean as possible to protect all the bearings of metal shavings that are shed in the first 500 miles. Its a lot.)

Heat-cycling an engine....its a myth and a misunderstanding. No such thing, it does nothing.

This is how its done.
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

.
this person must not see inside of engines very much. lots of wasted oil there.

If the engine isn't run HARD for its first 2-3 miles after being built....the rings might not, and probably won't.....seat properly. Then you will have an oil burner forever and less power forever.
Thats why every LSx engine as well as all engines from all manufacturers get put on a dyno and run hard before they get installed into the cars. Leave it up to the customer and they'll have 100's of thousands of people coming back with oil burning issues.

Doesn't matter what kind of rings you're using.....CROSS HATCHING ONLY LASTS FOR A VERY SHORT TIME....the rings must get seated in that time, otherwise you're screwed.


If you want to drive it easy after the proper "BREAK-IN" time of the first 2-3 miles......have at it.

Engine break-in regarding cylinder walls and rings = HARD RUNS immediately
Total engine break-in = oil changes at 50, 100, 150, 200, 300, 500 and then 1000 miles. Then every 3,000 from there. (You MUST keep the engine as clean as possible to protect all the bearings of metal shavings that are shed in the first 500 miles. Its a lot.)

Heat-cycling an engine....its a myth and a misunderstanding. No such thing, it does nothing.

This is how its done.
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

.

This post is full of fail.

If the engine isn't run HARD for its first 2-3 miles after being built....the rings might not, and probably won't.....seat properly. Then you will have an oil burner forever and less power forever.
Thats why every LSx engine as well as all engines from all manufacturers get put on a dyno and run hard before they get installed into the cars. Leave it up to the customer and they'll have 100's of thousands of people coming back with oil burning issues.

Doesn't matter what kind of rings you're using.....CROSS HATCHING ONLY LASTS FOR A VERY SHORT TIME....the rings must get seated in that time, otherwise you're screwed.


If you want to drive it easy after the proper "BREAK-IN" time of the first 2-3 miles......have at it.

Engine break-in regarding cylinder walls and rings = HARD RUNS immediately
Total engine break-in = oil changes at 50, 100, 150, 200, 300, 500 and then 1000 miles. Then every 3,000 from there. (You MUST keep the engine as clean as possible to protect all the bearings of metal shavings that are shed in the first 500 miles. Its a lot.)

Heat-cycling an engine....its a myth and a misunderstanding. No such thing, it does nothing.

This is how its done.
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

.Da fuck you smoking bro???

FWIW I would check with whoever built the engine for you and follow their routine in case you have any issues. The last thing you want is to have a problem and them tell you to go pound sand because you "broke it in wrong" when you may have used a suitable method but not the one they think is the "right way".

This is good advice because every builder will tell you something different

+1 on following the recommendations from your builder bud.

This again

I heard the same thing. The rings need to seat fairly quickly and babying it isn't going to make that happen.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

This is a great article about seating rings. It is basically along the the same line of what LS6427 said.

Dyno is the best way imo to get rings set

What about the valvetrain? Not many people I know of use the same valve springs from their old motor.

Get it to operating temp, thats it. Then its ready to run hard.

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this person must not see inside of engines very much. lots of wasted oil there.

A new engine sheds shitloads of metal in the first 500 miles.......what fool wants those metal shavings circulating through the engine? Not me.....

Oil is cheap....rebuilds are not.

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This post is full of fail.

For example?

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Da fuck you smoking bro???

Nothing....what makes you ask that?

Do you have better information and experience on breaking in engines to share with us.

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It wont burn oil for ever if you dont get em set fast it will just be a longer break in process like he said get her to top operating temps and once that is done either run her on the chassis dyno or get on the street and put her in first and run her hard. Also if you get to a top of a hill put it in x gear and dont give any gas and let it stay high in the rpms. There are also many metal shavings after it is broke in for a few hundred miles. Ill take pics next time we change oil on the dyno.

Nothing....what makes you ask that?

Do you have better information and experience on breaking in engines to share with us.

.

Don't worry, what you said is exactly what I have heard about engine break in.

There are going to be haters because what you said goes against what everyone has been saying for thousands of years so instead of understanding what your saying that will just laugh at you instead. Because hey, Joe Bob's cousins uncle says you should baby your shit for 250 miles and then 500 miles and then switch it to a carb and it will run nines. :)

That link I posted on the other page talks about what your saying, so I had heard of the "strong" break in method before I even owned an LSX.

To each his own, but i will not trust a website that looks and reads like an eBay ad

Don't worry, what you said is exactly what I have heard about engine break in.

There are going to be haters because what you said goes against what everyone has been saying for thousands of years so instead of understanding what your saying that will just laugh at you instead. Because hey, Joe Bob's cousins uncle says you should baby your shit for 250 miles and then 500 miles and then switch it to a carb and it will run nines. :)

That link I posted on the other page talks about what your saying, so I had heard of the "strong" break in method before I even owned an LSX.

So true......lol

Yes, that link is great. Been posting it here for years, great info. Lots of testing and experience that guy has.


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To each his own, but i will not trust a website that looks and reads like an eBay ad

You kidding, that guy has years of experience with tuning and engine break-ins.

What do you think the NASCAR engines get right after they are assembled??????????
You think they hire some redneck to go drive it around the track at 55mph for 500 miles.

Competition Drag Racing engines...all levels, including Top Fuel. The engines get built, dynoed....then they hit the track. They don't put 500 miles on them.

Professional Motorcycle Racing........same thing.

How about a Formula F1 engine.......you think they hire some European wanna be driver to cruise around at 70mph for 500 miles.

No.....they run the living piss outta them the second they are started for their first time. Then within a few miles they are on the track racing for a prize. And they need every single bit of power out of their engines. If there was a better way, they would do it.

THEN.....factory production car engines.......every single one. THEY ALL GET RUN ON A DYNO....HARD. They don't put them on a dyno and set them to 2500rpm and leave them for 500 miles. You get the engine with a few miles on it.....rings seated, cross-hatching in the cylinders GONE.

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You need to thrush the rings in to the walls. This is best dun on a DYNE. If you lack a dyne just do several hard acceleration in second gear and let the engine brake the car down to like 10MPH. Then do it again like 4-6 times APP. This thrushes the rings in to the walls and the DE-acceleration flushes the chips off the walls. I normally change the oil and filter after app 50 miles or so. This should do it. Never BABY an engine during break in. That is a sure way of not seating the rings. Other than seating the rings their is no other procedure for other parts to be broken in. Hope this helps!!

There is no no such thing as BREAK IN Anymore! The term was for the old Molly Rings that took time to seat! the rings we have now seat Immediately!


The reason for molly rings is for fast break in. All rings are PRE-LAPPED when they are made. The old style chrome rings is what you are talking about. And you better believe if you dont thrush those rings in to the walls the engine will not be broken in.

Why do you think engines used A CHROME MOLLY CONFIGURATION. Fast seating molly and long wearing of the chrome ring. In order to seat the rings and flush chips an engine must be broken in properly.

:engarde:

FWIW I would check with whoever built the engine for you and follow their routine in case you have any issues. The last thing you want is to have a problem and them tell you to go pound sand because you "broke it in wrong" when you may have used a suitable method but not the one they think is the "right way".

Just curious did the engine builder make the RINGS???? How about following the ring manufacturers recommendations as i advise the customer. And that is to thrush the rings in to the walls with a few hard runs in lower gears and let the engine DE-Accelerate. As far as no break in necessary. Do you not hone the cylinders on a rebuild??? If you do where do you think the particles go when the rings seat and burnish the walls????? Lets see IN THE OIL?????

:engarde:

Do you have better information and experience on breaking in engines to share with us.For no one to listen to what you write on here because you obviously don't know wtf you're talking about??? How about that?

"oil changes at 50, 100, 150, 200, 300, 500 and then 1000 miles", and heat cycling being a "myth", that's got to be the most laughable thing I've read on here in a while...

Follow the GM printout I posted, after changing the oil/filter after the first time, drive it however you want for 500 miles, then change oil/filter again, then every 3000 after that.

You kidding, that guy has years of experience with tuning and engine break-ins.

What do you think the NASCAR engines get right after they are assembled??????????
You think they hire some redneck to go drive it around the track at 55mph for 500 miles.

Competition Drag Racing engines...all levels, including Top Fuel. The engines get built, dynoed....then they hit the track. They don't put 500 miles on them.

Professional Motorcycle Racing........same thing.

How about a Formula F1 engine.......you think they hire some European wanna be driver to cruise around at 70mph for 500 miles.

No.....they run the living piss outta them the second they are started for their first time. Then within a few miles they are on the track racing for a prize. And they need every single bit of power out of their engines. If there was a better way, they would do it.

THEN.....factory production car engines.......every single one. THEY ALL GET RUN ON A DYNO....HARD. They don't put them on a dyno and set them to 2500rpm and leave them for 500 miles. You get the engine with a few miles on it.....rings seated, cross-hatching in the cylinders GONE.

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you just proved you were smoking something. Top fuel motors never see a dyno. Most of the time they are rebuilt right there AT THE TRACK.

you just proved you were smoking something. Top fuel motors never see a dyno. Most of the time they are rebuilt right there AT THE TRACK.

REALLY?? You know what he meant.

We would use Penzoil straight 30w. Run it on the dyno for a few pulls, change it out again check oil condition, fill it again penzoil 30w and dyno hard. Drain oil, run several miles on 30w then put synthetic in and run it.
Everyone I've done this way with Total Seal rings, my leakdown has been 1% on all cyl. This is on a roller cam engine as well.

I've broken mine in with just normal driving, nothing special. As long as you vary the load and RPM, the rings will seat.

you just proved you were smoking something. Top fuel motors never see a dyno. Most of the time they are rebuilt right there AT THE TRACK.

Ever seen one on a chassis dyno? It destroys the dyno

I have been in Tim Wilkerson's shop multiple times. He doesn't have a dyno. He also does alot of machining work for most of the other teams that can't afford their own machine shop. Something tells me if they can't afford a machine shop they don't have a dyno either.

just vary the driving for a few hundred miles. this will seat the rings. then for the next couple of hundred miles drive it like you will be driving it in mile 5000. :drive: this way you can get the car used to being beat on.
then change the oil.

its funny how many opinions you get about this subject.
I think the main focus should be to "seat the rings" or not.
I think we all agree on getting the oil psi primed & ready for what will happen next.