00blacka4

iTrader: (7)

Whats the best way to break in my new 402 ? was planning on using joe gibbs break in oil first few hundred miles then switching to ???

thanks

FOUROHSICKS

I broke in my home assembled 402 with cheap 20/50 wt Walmart oil for 30 minutes.then switched to castrol gtx 20/50 and drove like a grandma for 250 miles and changed it.drove another 250 miles" easy on the throttle"changed it then it was ***** to the wall action! Iam very pleased with the power.here is the first car I put it in.

BackNBlue

FWIW I would check with whoever built the engine for you and follow their routine in case you have any issues. The last thing you want is to have a problem and them tell you to go pound sand because you "broke it in wrong" when you may have used a suitable method but not the one they think is the "right way".

litle88

iTrader: (20)

+1 on following the recommendations from your builder bud.

Sales4@Texas-Speed

iTrader: (4)

I would definitely recommend the use of the Joe gibbs oil, it has the additives need to help properly seal the rings. We like to use it for the first 500 miles or so, after that we move to valvoline VR1.

Ws6Dnero

iTrader: (23)

Id just use regular cheap oil, im not a believer of all those additives. Put in the cheap regular oil, take out the spark plugs and turn the motor over til the oil pressure is up. reinstall plugs and fire it up. Let it get up to temp and run it like a raped ape!! change it again after 100 miles, and put ya synthetic in after 500 miles

00blacka4

iTrader: (7)

hey TSP dont you recommend running conventional ? like VR1 20-50 ?

my guy told me dont be TO easy on it you want the rings to break in as fast as possible...and he also said do alot of decels on hills

Mazzenger

iTrader: (5)

I heard the same thing. The rings need to seat fairly quickly and babying it isn't going to make that happen.

I8UR4RD

iTrader: (16)

what im doing

joe gibbs for first 100 miles including startup and 4 heat cycles

after 100 miles

royal purple race and start easing the rpms up to 3500-5000 untill 350-500 miles

swap the oil again


then

put it on a dyno.

dont forget to fill up the oil filter before installing .


melling makes a great oil primer. you can make your own as well, or pull the plugs and fuel and just use the starter to turn over the motor. until you register pressure. i like the idea of an external prime because the oil is already there on the cylinder walls etc......before they even move a single MM

Ws6Dnero

iTrader: (23)

do what i said do and youll be ok

Dyno Junkie

LS3 crate engine.
Change sump, cam, valve springs etc.
Fit engine to Monaro.
Drive onto dyno and run engine in under load.

After 500km (~300miles) drop oil and fill with Castrol Edge 10w-60.

TurboBuick6

iTrader: (2)

You are supposed to run it hard with a lot of engine breaking to seat the rings. If you baby it there is a high chance of the rings not seating correctly.

westtexasbuff

iTrader: (40)

+badss+

iTrader: (12)

Well the guys doing my engine install are install engine, run over to get oil pressure once that's good run it for 10 mins then if all is well strapping to the dyno and let it rock and roll but mine is a performance engine not a stock crate engine I talk to builder once dyno is done take it to the strip and let it rip.

BIGHAL

There is no no such thing as BREAK IN Anymore! The term was for the old Molly Rings that took time to seat! the rings we have now seat Immediately!

blue98Z

iTrader: (29)

I've broken all my engines in this way but, with a slight difference. For the first 3k miles drive it like you stole it (in a somewhat law abiding manner lol) changing the oil at 500 and 1k miles then swapping to whatever oil I'm gonna run and you can drive normal after that. They've never let me down, consumed oil, smoked, or made noises. They've all ran like scolded dogs though.

I know everyone has their preferences but, this has always worked for me so I won't change it.

CAMSTER

iTrader: (10)

I always use regular Castrol 5 w 30 for brake in and ran what ever needs, to get everything done including road tuning and testing, then we take the car to the dyno with same oil after the dyno we change oil, and car is ready to go.

The reason for Castrol is one of best regular oils, up there in quality with many synthetics while still allowing the brake in to take place with trust worthy protection, I know cause after taking an engine apart which made over 1,100 foot lbs of torque the main and rod bearings look like they never seen the crank.

JUSTINSWS6

First drive i use joe gibbs run her jard for a few hours. Change it to 20w-50 conv. For 500 miles then 500 miles 20w50. Then switched to synthetic 15w40 for 1000 then i did normal 3k ish oil changes. Use conv oil to break it in at first. And give her hell dont ***** foot it.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

There are two schools of thought on this.
A. Baby it for the first 500-1000miles
B. Beat the **** out of it

Given either option should only be done after a proper heat cycle has been done for the valvetrain and changing the oil after you do so.

Personally I will drive it easy for 10 miles or so then beat the hell out of it. After the first oil change IMO its good to change it at 500 miles.

There's someone on here, can't remember who it is, says to change the oil like every 100 miles or so for the first 1000 miles which IMO is pretty damn excessive.

I've never seen that GM performance parts document. That's good to know.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

If the engine isn't run HARD for its first 2-3 miles after being built....the rings might not, and probably won't.....seat properly. Then you will have an oil burner forever and less power forever.
Thats why every LSx engine as well as all engines from all manufacturers get put on a dyno and run hard before they get installed into the cars. Leave it up to the customer and they'll have 100's of thousands of people coming back with oil burning issues.

Doesn't matter what kind of rings you're using.....CROSS HATCHING ONLY LASTS FOR A VERY SHORT TIME....the rings must get seated in that time, otherwise you're screwed.


If you want to drive it easy after the proper "BREAK-IN" time of the first 2-3 miles......have at it.

Engine break-in regarding cylinder walls and rings = HARD RUNS immediately
Total engine break-in = oil changes at 50, 100, 150, 200, 300, 500 and then 1000 miles. Then every 3,000 from there. (You MUST keep the engine as clean as possible to protect all the bearings of metal shavings that are shed in the first 500 miles. Its a lot.)

Heat-cycling an engine....its a myth and a misunderstanding. No such thing, it does nothing.

This is how its done.
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

.