samz28

My trans temps were at 225 (TOO HOT!) after a lap or two.

I have 160T and trans cooler. Obviously the trans cooler doesn't do alot of good when the fluid isn't moving and the staging is short.

theres the TSP B&M +3QT oil pan , but once i heatsoak that, wont it take longer to cool it down or just as long??

Better fluid? I dont want to mix this and that.

I just ordered a FAN ON override but again if the car ain't pumping fluid how much is it going to cool down all that fluid stuck in the tranny?

ECT's were 225 too, it was maybe 80 outside. I have 160 TSTAT that locks at 180F on the freeway.

It's only gonna get hotter. Any suggestions?

What you 9-11 second guys do other than parking it between laps?

thanks for any tips. I figured the serious drag racers hang here and know the tricks to avoid toasting the tranny.

I made like 15 passes, with trans temps that high would it be safe to say it might be time (4 months ago) to fluid change?

Colonel

I wouldn't make 1 pass with the temp at 225...let alone 15.

I don't know why your temps are that high. All I've ever used is a simply tranny cooler and keeping the temps below 210 have never been a problem (usually no problem to keep it below 200) even hot lapping in warm weather. Sure your gage is right?

samz28

Dunno do you trust efilive 6.4.0? ECT and Trans temps were 225 hotlapping. The drive home ECT's were 180F the whole trip home at 80mph. Didn't look at trans temps.

So any ideas? Maybe those monster brake-stand burnouts heat up the fluid alot?
perhaps i should lock up the tranny in 3rd gear to reduce convert slippage? Maybe the efficiency of the ssf3500 is so low it dissipates a shitload of heat? I bet it was glowing after 5 hotlaps. lol.

I'm sure if my ect's and trans temps were nominal (what do you see as nominal?) i'd have cut some better times.

got some suggestions colonel? i never got better than 1.757 60' foot on ET's.

could it be my trans is toast? it doesn't slip but has 70.5K miles (1000 miles on new fluid).

thanks for any tips you have.

Stone0fFire

225 with a 3500?!!
good god, i have a 4000!
can i run two transcoolers in series?
i have mine in the passenger side vent under the headlamp assembly.
24k gvw
maybe i can run another on the drivers side.

if series wont work,
some y-type fittings will let me run parallel,
that will work for sure, right?

maybe its time to change the fluid and get a deep pan.

help?

Stone0fFire

no, parallel would be retarded because of the merge, right?
cant i run series since i am already running series with the crappy stock transcooler at the bottom of the radiator?

samz28

the stock transcooler cant be that crappy if the fans are moving air through them, how are you getting air through your transcooler at idle?stopped or low mph?

Cheatin' Chad

iTrader: (3)

Parallel probably isn't going to work that well.

Theoretically you can run as many as you want in series. There might be issues with pressure drop at some point.

You could always mount a fan to your trans cooler.

Stone0fFire

great, so my idea was crappy.
i have considered putting in a fan with that cooler,
but should i put it in front or behind?

in front it would obstruct airflow at high speeds.
behind, it would..
nevermind. i dont know what im talking about.

help!

DeepBlueZ

i have a BBK finned pan that holds 3 extra quarts on my trans....it hangs a little bit low but i cant see it being a problem on a stock sprung car..

samz28

and how are you trans temps compared to before? What was the price on this device? I saw one for $164 but that seems ridiculous for what it was lol.

The question is: Takes longer to warmup (bad?), does it reall cool off in a hot day, short staging scenario? Or would more fluid, once heatsoaked, take longer to cool off?

Inquiring minds would like to know. Summers coming up and those 100F+ drag events are going to punish the tranny even more.

I was hoping to find more serious drag racers that have some data to backup these solutions, not to dismiss your idea, im seriously considering it but am not going to spend the cash to do it if it doesn't have proven benefits under the conditions of drag racing and short staging lines, and long hot days.

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

First problem is that your ECT is 225*. The primary problem is that most people keep the stock cooler which means that the tranny fluid passes through it first. If your ECT is 225*, you are not transferring heat to the ECT unless your tranny fluid exceeds 225*. In fact you may be adding heat to the situation. Make sure your cooler is installed after the stock cooler or completely bypass the stock cooler.

Your sig does not mention programming. Are your fans set for a 160 T-stat?

What size is your cooler? Hot lapping in hot weather requires a good cooler. In your situation, a B&M Supercooler 24k is probably what you want.

Are you sure that your cooler is getting good airflow? Your tranny temps should drop quickly on the highway. Test it out.

Bigger pans help some. They will have cooling fins which help disapate the heat.

DeepBlueZ

the BBK pan cost me 120 from summit....it doesn't make as big a difference as a cooler, but it will definitely help. $120 sounds like a lot but it's not a flimsy stamped metal pan....mine is a pretty beefy looking thing, its gotta be a half inch thick.

samz28

yes yes highway, but we're talking track. Massive burnout which induces severe pain on the driveline i'm sure, then a 10-12second jaunt down the track ***** open, then 15mph back to ticket box, is probably not much time.

I have 160T-stat with fans on, i'll look and see if i need a bigger cooler. The problem is ultimately the situation, hot, not much time to cool off, and waiting in line for short periods of time (more runs!).

I've got the fan override switch on order and will try that next time. AS well as using a line lock to not punish the brakes/tranny to such, i assume the brake-stand burnout is a little harder than a line lock burnout since the rears are fighting the converter a little.

Guess its trial n error and lotsa fluid changes. Did the $120 pan come with an easy out drain plug?

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Got to run at least the low speed fan full time. Have
thought about getting a 12V muffin fan and relocating
the cooler to its own space but my temps stay pretty
low since I have the FAN1 running at the bottom of
thermostat range. I also set up my cooler to get the
fluid first, then run it through the radiator, with the idea
that if trans fluid was hotter than radiator it would shed
heat better overall, if the oil-air cooler was used on the
hottest oil.

I've seen for sale trans coolers that have the fan and shroud
already assembled, a bit pricey but would let you locate it
anywhere (like out of that toasty warm radiator pocket).

DeepBlueZ

samz28

I was just thinking. I could get some ICE and the big pan. Then between runs fill the bucket with ice, then jack up the car slide it under the trans pan and manually cool off like those blower lt1/ls1 a/w intercooler guys lol

DeepBlueZ

y dont ya just get a big bag of ice and put it on the top of the jack..then roll the jack under the car and crank it up till its resting on the pan. no need to lift the car that way.

P.S. assuming you're using a floorjack and not a little scissor jack or something...that would be a bit of a pain.

samz28

lol could just strap on some dry ice to the trans cooler. That doesn't melt into a liquid so i spose it would be okay as long as it didn't break apart somehow lol

z28hokie

I have a Derale pan which has some tubes going through it to supposedly to give more surface area to the air & holds 2.5 or so quarts more fluid...

I figured it was BS...so got one off a friend...

20 degrees (average) later...I decided it wasn't BS

Not bad for just a pan...

Cheatin' Chad

iTrader: (3)

I have a TCI cast AL pan.It's Finned and holds 2 extra qts I believe.

Good quality. American made. $120