94 formula dies after warming up.
#1
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: south jersey
Posts: 958
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
94 formula dies after warming up.
Not my car, yet. Starts and runs until it warms up and just cuts out. I think it's dtc 16 it's throwing. Obviously the opti comes to mind that's what my 97 did when that crapped out. But it COULD be the ICM or Coil or such right?
#4
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: south jersey
Posts: 958
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Am i correct in thinking the 02's, temp sensor, or anything else causing it to cut out when warm wouldn't be into play with the code it threw? It would have to be icm, coil or opti?
I have a coil and ICM from the last fbody i will be swapping out tomorrow. PLEASE hope that's the cause for me
I have a coil and ICM from the last fbody i will be swapping out tomorrow. PLEASE hope that's the cause for me
#6
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: south jersey
Posts: 958
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Swapped out coil & icm. Turned over and ran for a minute before dying (worse than before, it's also really hot out today)
I guess now I can take the old coil & icm to autozone or such? don't they test them just to rule out they were working.
What's next?
I guess now I can take the old coil & icm to autozone or such? don't they test them just to rule out they were working.
What's next?
#7
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Might be a bad ICM pigtail. Try wiggling the ICM pigtail when the car is running. Though it is really starting to stink like an opti in here. And yes, autozone can test your ICM, dunno about the coil, the one I worked at and all the local ones don't, but they can be unreliable because the ICM isn't put under the same load.
Trending Topics
#9
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Sounds opti-ish for sure. Break out the multimeter for this: http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#opti_test. If everything checks out, time for a good AC Delco.
Although, it could just be a loose rotor. If the electrical signals check out, I'd check to make sure the rotor didn't come loose.
Although, it could just be a loose rotor. If the electrical signals check out, I'd check to make sure the rotor didn't come loose.
#10
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: south jersey
Posts: 958
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeppp, thanks for the link. I just hope that the coil / icm isn't bad, why won't it turn over at all now? same thing my camaro did with the opti though just don't get it.
fml opti also it's stuck flat on my drive way off the ramps, no jack currently either but i always hated jacking these cars from the front. Can i do the opti from the top? reasonably?
fml opti also it's stuck flat on my drive way off the ramps, no jack currently either but i always hated jacking these cars from the front. Can i do the opti from the top? reasonably?
Last edited by 02v8ta; 07-06-2012 at 11:14 AM.
#11
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: south jersey
Posts: 958
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So i put back to stock icm for the hell of it. It still wont turn over but it wants to more now. The engine will actually start to turn over on it's own, but not actually fire up. There's deff a difference! Am i just letting the heat get to me or could both ICM's be junk?
#12
TECH Addict
iTrader: (1)
So i put back to stock icm for the hell of it. It still wont turn over but it wants to more now. The engine will actually start to turn over on it's own, but not actually fire up. There's deff a difference! Am i just letting the heat get to me or could both ICM's be junk?
#13
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: south jersey
Posts: 958
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
New icm I bit the bullet with that one. So I've tried new.icm then the stock one with a different coil as well. Its probably the opti :/ can I do it from the top and without removing the rad?
#14
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: south jersey
Posts: 958
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Anyone? possible to replace through the top with the radiator still in there?
I ask because last time I went from the bottom and think I recall it being tight. Or will this be a new one!? I don't know if my body will even allow me to crawl under this fbody on level surface now
I ask because last time I went from the bottom and think I recall it being tight. Or will this be a new one!? I don't know if my body will even allow me to crawl under this fbody on level surface now
#15
On The Tree
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Anyone? possible to replace through the top with the radiator still in there?
I ask because last time I went from the bottom and think I recall it being tight. Or will this be a new one!? I don't know if my body will even allow me to crawl under this fbody on level surface now
I ask because last time I went from the bottom and think I recall it being tight. Or will this be a new one!? I don't know if my body will even allow me to crawl under this fbody on level surface now
#16
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Yes, you can do it from the top and without pulling the radiator. Get in there, drain the radiator, pull off the hoses, pull the air! pump and water pump and the crank pulley, don't have to pull the balancer, and then get that opti outta there! I did most of my work from the top. I did go under it but that was more for ease of putting some bolts back in and taking them out and such. It can be done from the top. I've seen people on here do it. And yes, I'm kinda drunk right now lol. You don't have to drop the radiator. I didn't. I did remove the driver side fan but that was more for removing the air! pump than the opti or other stuff.