need help with gremlin
#1
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need help with gremlin
NOOB here... well kind of.
havent been on any LSx forums in years. was on ls2 several years ago and know i had account here but been too long so had to set up a new one. ive done several searches on here trying to find a lead to my problem but no luck.
car has 92k miles, all internal motor is stock just bolt ons... lid, ported TB, full exhaust, 3000 stall, 3.42 gears, most suspension done.
started having a bad vibration everal months after installing gears. prior to that was also putting in stall. gears also started grinding, so tore it apart, changed all gears and bearings and no vibration... until the next day. pretty sure the junky 4l60e is taking a crap along with the POS stall i got from TCI. pretty sure that will fix that problem. just havent gotten around to unbolting converter to motor to see...
in the mean time ive been getting a low RPM popping out of my exhaust, give it gas and it clears. not trowing any codes, the hotter the engine gets the worse the studder and popping gets. not getting any lifter tic, oil pressure is good, runs great except for idle-2000 rpm. (other than vibration, but again about 90% pos its transmission) any thoughts about this. again, havent been over to the shop to start testing, but kind of throwing me for a loop.
any and all replies are appreciated!
havent been on any LSx forums in years. was on ls2 several years ago and know i had account here but been too long so had to set up a new one. ive done several searches on here trying to find a lead to my problem but no luck.
car has 92k miles, all internal motor is stock just bolt ons... lid, ported TB, full exhaust, 3000 stall, 3.42 gears, most suspension done.
started having a bad vibration everal months after installing gears. prior to that was also putting in stall. gears also started grinding, so tore it apart, changed all gears and bearings and no vibration... until the next day. pretty sure the junky 4l60e is taking a crap along with the POS stall i got from TCI. pretty sure that will fix that problem. just havent gotten around to unbolting converter to motor to see...
in the mean time ive been getting a low RPM popping out of my exhaust, give it gas and it clears. not trowing any codes, the hotter the engine gets the worse the studder and popping gets. not getting any lifter tic, oil pressure is good, runs great except for idle-2000 rpm. (other than vibration, but again about 90% pos its transmission) any thoughts about this. again, havent been over to the shop to start testing, but kind of throwing me for a loop.
any and all replies are appreciated!
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i will when i get the chance, but you would think it would through a missfire code. watching the datastream on our scanner, shows no missfires at all... thats what it feels like though with the backfire. plugs and wires were changed about 6k miles ago... should be fine...
Last edited by 35thPewterZ; 07-06-2012 at 09:02 AM.
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if this isnt internal engine then what is it? it acts like a misfire and have popping out the exhaust... so should i post this in the exhaust (external engine) forum? please enlighten me...
#6
its running lean at low rpm speeds due to the bolt-ons you added making air more abundant but not adding more fuel.
get a tune....
and your vibration is it while moving or idle? if your moving have you checked your drive shaft balencer? i bet its dry-rotted
get a tune....
and your vibration is it while moving or idle? if your moving have you checked your drive shaft balencer? i bet its dry-rotted
#7
Try PCM Diagnostics & Tuning:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagnostics-tuning-7/
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#8
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ive also always had a lot of valvetrain noise in high rpms when playing too hard for too long. so thought my engine problem might be valvetrain related.
but yes vibration is driving or sitting still in park. hopefully next weekend or so ill be able to unbolt the converter and see if it stops. the driveshaft was in another car ran fine, vibration started before i put "new" driveshaft in. thought that as well...
as much as ive read on these stalls, im sure thats what it is... and get a loud clanking noise sometimes when going from a 2-1 downshift like the trans has a lot of play in it... looking to replace tranny and stall hopefully sooner that later.
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started here cause i was thinking valvetrain... a simple "have you had your tune checked?" wouldve been better than your responses...
im sure if i woldve posted this in the tuning section im sure someone would have told me to go somewhere else...
people like you are why i dont miss these forums. and why new users dont stick around long. when asking for ideas or help, they get shitty responses...
#10
In the meantime, whip out your scantool and read the following at idle and while cruising when the problem happens:
1.) LTFT percentages for both banks
2.) Knock retard
3.) Spark advance
Post your findings in the PCM Diag forum and you'll get useful replies.
#11
well when your beating on it for to long everything is just getting heat soaked and thats pretty normal not much to worry about there.
well get on putting a converter in cause if the tranny isnt bad it will be if the converter take a ****. i just got one from edge racing and it cost me 550 to my door and works great.
my converters clutch pack blew and almost took my tranny with it. lucky i can rebuild my own other wise i would have been eating another 2k instead of just the converter
well get on putting a converter in cause if the tranny isnt bad it will be if the converter take a ****. i just got one from edge racing and it cost me 550 to my door and works great.
my converters clutch pack blew and almost took my tranny with it. lucky i can rebuild my own other wise i would have been eating another 2k instead of just the converter
#12
By your logic, nearly every engine problem would be "internal engine" wouldn't it?
Try PCM Diagnostics & Tuning:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagnostics-tuning-7/
Try PCM Diagnostics & Tuning:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagnostics-tuning-7/
And so funny too! You sir are very creative.