777Shock777

iTrader: (5)

Hey everyone,

Is there really any way to build up a factory 10 bolt?
Mine has been grinding at hard launches, so I'm driving "softer" at launches now haha.

I have an automatic, and most people would say get a 12 bolt, but this f-body won't ever see over 400whp...if even 370 for that matter. (that'll be my next one! haha).

So what parts could be used or upgraded to say?
I know eliminating wheel hop is the biggest issue. - I already have UMI lower control arms on there, which has GREATLY helped.

metalmilitia606

iTrader: (8)

Not worth it. Most people will tell you the same thing.

777Shock777

iTrader: (5)

I just find it hard to spend $2,300+ on a rear... I guess if I DID get this rear tho, I could build the car past 400whp no problem ;D

therabidweasel

iTrader: (5)

Well, to answer the question:

You can use a solid pinion spacer instead of a crush sleeve, you can add a girdle and back brace, you could buy some replacement axles and use either a locker or maybe an auburn as it seems to me that people have trouble with the ZT diffs more often. You can run "thicker" gears, I cant tell you which are thicker but you can search for that. You can weld the axle tubes to the center section. . .I know I'm missing something else here. . .

You will get people that tell you from experience they will take hundreds of 1.6x 60s and you'll get people that tell you from experience they broke on stock HP on a cold, bald set of Pirellis pulling into their driveway. The 10 bolt is a crap shoot, the question is always: Are you a gambler?

Go On 3

iTrader: (2)

For high hp cars id say get good rear end and don't waste ur time with the 10 bolt. But in ur case id find another 10bolt and put it in. 400>2500. Some have had very good luck and some haven't. Being auto the 10bolt should last longer.

JUSTINSWS6

Buy a used 9 inch rear

Go On 3

iTrader: (2)

basic bolt ons and automatic and u recommend a 9"? why? its way overkill, but i guess u would never have to change it again...

JUSTINSWS6

Yes i blew mine up

therabidweasel

iTrader: (5)

Oh yeah, never even seen a c-clip eliminator setup but the words are music to my ears. I was looking at CRP's site and it looks like you can get c-clip eliminator axle packages for ~$550. C-clips are the spookiest part of a 10 bolt to me, how could I forget?

At your power level I'd consider having a second 10 bolt on hand and some kind of towing insurance. . .but I wouldn't really bother building a 10 bolt. . .just remove and replace, throw broken parts in bone pile on side of house. But pray you dont break an axle trash your ride or need a mediflight. . .damn c-clips. . .the design itself was shameful, the fact that they kept it for so long is inexcusable.

JUSTINSWS6

No one makes c clip eliminators on the stock 10 bolt axels you must buy after market axles

Go On 3

iTrader: (2)

ive blown a handful also but at his level there is no need, hell i ran a bone stock 3.42 10bolt for over a year at 500+hp and weekly trips to the track on et steets and alot of 1.5/1.6 60fts but on the other hand ive broke a few before that that had Richmond 373s. Basically op if u have the money then go ahead and get a better rear and if not just get another 10bolt, 10bolts can last esp on street tires

777Shock777

iTrader: (5)

Luckily it seems the A4 10 bolts are pretty cheap.
I'm planning on picking up another f body sometime soon (manual) and that I would definitely get a new rear on, but for this one I'd like to just keep it 10 bolt.

I rarely ever do launches, its mainly rolling racing.

Maybe I'll just buy a performance T/A cover and call it good. haha.
Luck of the draw I guess

Mike Morris

iTrader: (55)

Thats my experience. I have 1LE lowers and don't wheel hop. I am trying to get the car light too. Sixty foots when they get in the low 1.5 range with an auto is when you have to worry. I say weld the tubes,get a girdle and you should be fine. Lighten up the car and avoide abusing it on the street as well.

Floorman279

iTrader: (11)

couldnt u just build a junkyard 8.8 for fairly cheap and have it last awhile

NoGo

iTrader: (2)

My opinion - and it is worth as much as you paid for it.

If you want to keep the 10 bolt:
Stud the bearing caps
Run a thick end cover with bearing cap assists (little cap thingies that press on the back of the bearing caps)
Keep the gear no more than 3.73 (ie. don't put in 4.10's)
Don't run an chassis bolted or tube mounted aftermarket torque arm

I've gone through about 4 rebuilds on mine. Its defiantly not a long-term strategy, but if you want to keep your costs down and don't mind wrenching, it is a reasonable way to go.

hiram007

iTrader: (19)

Exactly, not worth building at all. Mine went out on stock power in an M6 with BFG's. Dont waste your money, put it into something else. If the 10 bolt goes out, then get another one if you want to keep the 10 bolt set up.

cknoma2005

iTrader: (3)

NoGo - "Don't run an chassis bolted or tube mounted aftermarket torque arm"

Why would running a chassis mounted torque arm be a bad thing as compared to a tranny mounted torque arm? Seems like it would be the opposite.

777Shock777

iTrader: (5)

I'm just going to start saving and see what happens. Like I said its an automatic so its not too rough on the rear, but I'll see if I can save for a 12 bolt now.

NoGo

iTrader: (2)

I think firm mounting the forward point of the torque arm is good for traction, but I think it becomes a loading point to transfer some of the forward force that would otherwise go through the LCA. I think this deflects the housing and causes the axle tubes to try and 'drive' forward of the housing.

I think its bad for traction, but good for 10-bolt longevity - one of the reasons I run a stock torque arm still with the forward mounting point still floating.

JMO - and I'm not a chassis guy.

cknoma2005

iTrader: (3)

I understand what your saying. You should check out Spohn's new chassis mounted torque arm. It seems that it takes that into account. I'm installing one on my car with my 'ultimate 10bolt' build. Check it out.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...e-brace-4.html

Here is the torque arm I order with a Del-sphere rod end to allow for pivoting in the corners.

http://www.spohn.net/shop/1998-2002-...ersY-Pipe.html