View Full Version : Building a stock 10 bolt?!


777Shock777
07-06-2012, 12:25 PM
Hey everyone,

Is there really any way to build up a factory 10 bolt?
Mine has been grinding at hard launches, so I'm driving "softer" at launches now haha.

I have an automatic, and most people would say get a 12 bolt, but this f-body won't ever see over 400whp...if even 370 for that matter. (that'll be my next one! haha).

So what parts could be used or upgraded to say?
I know eliminating wheel hop is the biggest issue. - I already have UMI lower control arms on there, which has GREATLY helped. :)

metalmilitia606
07-06-2012, 12:26 PM
Not worth it. Most people will tell you the same thing.

777Shock777
07-06-2012, 12:41 PM
Not worth it. Most people will tell you the same thing.

I just find it hard to spend $2,300+ on a rear... I guess if I DID get this rear tho, I could build the car past 400whp no problem ;D

therabidweasel
07-06-2012, 12:43 PM
Well, to answer the question:

You can use a solid pinion spacer instead of a crush sleeve, you can add a girdle and back brace, you could buy some replacement axles and use either a locker or maybe an auburn as it seems to me that people have trouble with the ZT diffs more often. You can run "thicker" gears, I cant tell you which are thicker but you can search for that. You can weld the axle tubes to the center section. . .I know I'm missing something else here. . .

You will get people that tell you from experience they will take hundreds of 1.6x 60s and you'll get people that tell you from experience they broke on stock HP on a cold, bald set of Pirellis pulling into their driveway. The 10 bolt is a crap shoot, the question is always: Are you a gambler?

Go On 3
07-06-2012, 01:32 PM
For high hp cars id say get good rear end and don't waste ur time with the 10 bolt. But in ur case id find another 10bolt and put it in. 400>2500. Some have had very good luck and some haven't. Being auto the 10bolt should last longer.

JUSTINSWS6
07-06-2012, 01:34 PM
Buy a used 9 inch rear

Go On 3
07-06-2012, 01:39 PM
Buy a used 9 inch rear

basic bolt ons and automatic and u recommend a 9"? why? its way overkill, but i guess u would never have to change it again...

JUSTINSWS6
07-06-2012, 01:44 PM
Yes i blew mine up

therabidweasel
07-06-2012, 01:54 PM
Oh yeah, never even seen a c-clip eliminator setup but the words are music to my ears. I was looking at CRP's site and it looks like you can get c-clip eliminator axle packages for ~$550. C-clips are the spookiest part of a 10 bolt to me, how could I forget?

At your power level I'd consider having a second 10 bolt on hand and some kind of towing insurance. . .but I wouldn't really bother building a 10 bolt. . .just remove and replace, throw broken parts in bone pile on side of house. But pray you dont break an axle trash your ride or need a mediflight. . .damn c-clips. . .the design itself was shameful, the fact that they kept it for so long is inexcusable.

JUSTINSWS6
07-06-2012, 01:57 PM
No one makes c clip eliminators on the stock 10 bolt axels you must buy after market axles

Go On 3
07-06-2012, 01:59 PM
ive blown a handful also but at his level there is no need, hell i ran a bone stock 3.42 10bolt for over a year at 500+hp and weekly trips to the track on et steets and alot of 1.5/1.6 60fts but on the other hand ive broke a few before that that had Richmond 373s. Basically op if u have the money then go ahead and get a better rear and if not just get another 10bolt, 10bolts can last esp on street tires

777Shock777
07-06-2012, 02:05 PM
Luckily it seems the A4 10 bolts are pretty cheap.
I'm planning on picking up another f body sometime soon (manual) and that I would definitely get a new rear on, but for this one I'd like to just keep it 10 bolt.

I rarely ever do launches, its mainly rolling racing.

Maybe I'll just buy a performance T/A cover and call it good. haha.
Luck of the draw I guess :)

Mike Morris
07-07-2012, 01:16 PM
Well, to answer the question:

You can use a solid pinion spacer instead of a crush sleeve, you can add a girdle and back brace, you could buy some replacement axles and use either a locker or maybe an auburn as it seems to me that people have trouble with the ZT diffs more often. You can run "thicker" gears, I cant tell you which are thicker but you can search for that. You can weld the axle tubes to the center section. . .I know I'm missing something else here. . .

You will get people that tell you from experience they will take hundreds of 1.6x 60s and you'll get people that tell you from experience they broke on stock HP on a cold, bald set of Pirellis pulling into their driveway. The 10 bolt is a crap shoot, the question is always: Are you a gambler?

Thats my experience. I have 1LE lowers and don't wheel hop. I am trying to get the car light too. Sixty foots when they get in the low 1.5 range with an auto is when you have to worry. I say weld the tubes,get a girdle and you should be fine. Lighten up the car and avoide abusing it on the street as well.

Floorman279
07-07-2012, 03:32 PM
couldnt u just build a junkyard 8.8 for fairly cheap and have it last awhile

NoGo
07-07-2012, 03:43 PM
My opinion - and it is worth as much as you paid for it.

If you want to keep the 10 bolt:
Stud the bearing caps
Run a thick end cover with bearing cap assists (little cap thingies that press on the back of the bearing caps)
Keep the gear no more than 3.73 (ie. don't put in 4.10's)
Don't run an chassis bolted or tube mounted aftermarket torque arm

I've gone through about 4 rebuilds on mine. Its defiantly not a long-term strategy, but if you want to keep your costs down and don't mind wrenching, it is a reasonable way to go.

hiram007
07-10-2012, 10:06 AM
Not worth it. Most people will tell you the same thing.

Exactly, not worth building at all. Mine went out on stock power in an M6 with BFG's. Dont waste your money, put it into something else. If the 10 bolt goes out, then get another one if you want to keep the 10 bolt set up.

cknoma2005
07-12-2012, 01:13 PM
NoGo - "Don't run an chassis bolted or tube mounted aftermarket torque arm"

Why would running a chassis mounted torque arm be a bad thing as compared to a tranny mounted torque arm? Seems like it would be the opposite.

777Shock777
07-12-2012, 05:03 PM
I'm just going to start saving and see what happens. Like I said its an automatic so its not too rough on the rear, but I'll see if I can save for a 12 bolt now.

NoGo
07-12-2012, 09:20 PM
NoGo - "Don't run an chassis bolted or tube mounted aftermarket torque arm"

Why would running a chassis mounted torque arm be a bad thing as compared to a tranny mounted torque arm? Seems like it would be the opposite.

I think firm mounting the forward point of the torque arm is good for traction, but I think it becomes a loading point to transfer some of the forward force that would otherwise go through the LCA. I think this deflects the housing and causes the axle tubes to try and 'drive' forward of the housing.

I think its bad for traction, but good for 10-bolt longevity - one of the reasons I run a stock torque arm still with the forward mounting point still floating.

JMO - and I'm not a chassis guy.

cknoma2005
07-12-2012, 10:40 PM
I think firm mounting the forward point of the torque arm is good for traction, but I think it becomes a loading point to transfer some of the forward force that would otherwise go through the LCA. I think this deflects the housing and causes the axle tubes to try and 'drive' forward of the housing.

I think its bad for traction, but good for 10-bolt longevity - one of the reasons I run a stock torque arm still with the forward mounting point still floating.

JMO - and I'm not a chassis guy.

I understand what your saying. You should check out Spohn's new chassis mounted torque arm. It seems that it takes that into account. I'm installing one on my car with my 'ultimate 10bolt' build. Check it out.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axles/1545696-10-bolt-lpw-girdle-axle-tube-brace-4.html

Here is the torque arm I order with a Del-sphere rod end to allow for pivoting in the corners.

http://www.spohn.net/shop/1998-2002-GM-F-Body/Suspension/Torque-Arms/Standard-Duty-Crossmember-Mounted-Torque-Arms/Tubular-Adjustable-Torque-Arm-Long-Tube-HeadersY-Pipe.html

SS SLP2
07-13-2012, 09:43 AM
I will add I am still on a 10 bolt
( have a 9"/detroit locker/4.11 on the ground ready to go in.)

>>>EDIT have now installed/ 6 months ago/after 76k/a 9"/4.11/det locker > 10 bolt was still running when pulled

my A4/stalled/10 bolt
ta cover/stud kit (140.00)
detroit locker (525.00)
3.73 (200.00)
mos axels (250.00)
welded tubes (nc)
mt drag radals (300.00)
air bags (50.00)
adjust ta on body mount(250.00)
relocate brackets (nc)
adjust lca (200.00)
adj phb (100.00)
all labor (nc)
all added a nickel and a dime at a time

heck of a lot of money in a 10 bolt

I do not want to add it up/all this in a 10 bolt running mid 11'/1.64
Johnny
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96lt1m6
07-13-2012, 12:49 PM
To be 100% honest i feel it is a waste of money to do any modifacations to a 7.625 10-bolt rear. By the time you add it all up you could have an 8.8 in there set it and forget it!
I have seen a few 7.625 survive but for me the statistics are proof enough, spend a few extra bucks on a known rear end....Sucks going to the track thinking this could be a FLATBED night... .

bayer-z28
08-13-2012, 06:17 AM
Was searching and found this. Didn't think it'd be recent.

I just ordered gears and a TA Girdle. Gonna order axles this week. Gonna take it to my buddy's shop and weld the axle tubes also.

But I'm still on the stock rear, but I've got a bent axle. Been like that for years and I've had the car for almost 10, so I've been pretty good to it. And I've been pushing 440 RW to it for a while now.

m6 trans are a bit more harsh on the rear, but IMO as long as you do t side step it or try a hard launch on slicks you'll be fine.

I do t drag my car so I'll be fine on a built 10b. Been looking into C-clip eliminators as well.

And WS6 store had my 3.90's on sale too. :D