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Cam and head swap the right way - Part checklist

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Old 07-06-2012, 03:17 PM
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Default Cam and head swap the right way - Part checklist

Ok, so I'm planning on doing a head and cam swap and I want to do this right. I'm shopping around trying to get some good prices and I'm working on my list of parts to get. I'm going to be doing all the work myself and I don't want to cut any corners or forget something that could come back to bite me later. Right now I've got full boltons, LS6 intake, an SS4000 converter, and I will do the tune myself. Please let me know if you see anything missing, comments and suggestions welcome:

Meat and Potatoes
Cam - have my eye on a AI 234/238 .629 .630 112+5 LSA
Heads - I have a fully assembled set of stock 243s with 42k miles on them. Not planning on doing anything to them at this time due to budget.

Supporting Mods
Melling high volume oil pump
Trunion Upgrade
Springs to match the cam - Need advice on which ones for the cam listed above and stock 243 valves? Do I need seats/retainers/locks?
ARP head bolts
GM MLS head gaskets
LS7 Lifters
Katech Rod Bolts
PTV Checker
LS2 timing chain
New Crank bolt
LS2 Lifter Trays

Tools
Spring compressor
PTV Checker

Last edited by Golf&GM; 07-06-2012 at 05:10 PM.
Old 07-06-2012, 03:34 PM
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Just so you know you would have to get your rods re-sized if you used the ARP rod bolts. Saw a thread on here the other day where a guy used them in his build without re-sizing and he effd-up his motor pretty good. Use the Katech rod bolts instead, no re-sizing necessary.
Old 07-06-2012, 03:36 PM
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Ah, good call. I do remember seeing something about the ARPs doing that. I update the original post
Old 07-06-2012, 04:52 PM
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Here's a couple tools if you don't already have them:

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-valve...1&blockType=G1

http://www.coloradospeed.com/index.p...ducts_id=10976

In the likely event that you can't re-use your factory rusted header bolts, try these, I just ordered a set.

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...ls6-5-7l-6-0l/

Also FYI, my Chilton's manual says to never replace the timing chain without replacing the gears also. don't know if that's really necessary or not.
Old 07-06-2012, 05:05 PM
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Injectors!!!

You may have to flycut with that cam-I hope not. LS2 lifter trays would be nice too.
Old 07-06-2012, 05:06 PM
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if you wana do this build right, i would go with an aftermarket set of heads. like AFR, i went the cheap route with stg 2.5 LS6 and wish id gone afternarket. there are alot to choose from TF heads are good so is TEA etc...
Old 07-06-2012, 05:06 PM
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oh ya and a custom cam is the only way to go(i wish id done that as well)
Old 07-06-2012, 05:10 PM
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He is on a budget so his heads with a valve job and milled are an improvement if he can swing it..
Old 07-06-2012, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Morris
He is on a budget so his heads with a valve job and milled are an improvement if he can swing it..
ya but he could save up a little longer for the better heads. i wish i had done that..but its his car and 243's aint bad either.
Old 07-06-2012, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by RezinTexas
Here's a couple tools if you don't already have them:

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-valve...1&blockType=G1

http://www.coloradospeed.com/index.p...ducts_id=10976

In the likely event that you can't re-use your factory rusted header bolts, try these, I just ordered a set.

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...ls6-5-7l-6-0l/

Also FYI, my Chilton's manual says to never replace the timing chain without replacing the gears also. don't know if that's really necessary or not.
Oh yea, spring compressor tool, definitely going to need that. Already have the crank pulley installer and the header bolts waiting to go. Learned the hard way a few years ago that it's not too smart to reuse rusty header bolts.


Originally Posted by 02sslayer
if you wana do this build right, i would go with an aftermarket set of heads. like AFR, i went the cheap route with stg 2.5 LS6 and wish id gone afternarket. there are alot to choose from TF heads are good so is TEA etc...
I would love to but I think these 243s going to have to do me for now. I got them for pretty cheap so I don't have a lot of money tied up in them. My goal is to run in the low 7s 1/8 mile and I know I'll be close with this setup. My financial situation is going to start looking up in the next year or two and I'll be able to spring for a nice set of heads, but until then I think these will get me to where I want to be. And the extra money I save on heads now can be used if my trans decides to take a dump in the fall when the season picks up. I always like to budget for things breaking so the car isn't down for too long.
Old 07-06-2012, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Golf&GM
I would love to but I think these 243s going to have to do me for now. I got them for pretty cheap so I don't have a lot of money tied up in them. My goal is to run in the low 7s 1/8 mile and I know I'll be close with this setup. My financial situation is going to start looking up in the next year or two and I'll be able to spring for a nice set of heads, but until then I think these will get me to where I want to be. And the extra money I save on heads now can be used if my trans decides to take a dump in the fall when the season picks up. I always like to budget for things breaking so the car isn't down for too long.
that sounds like a good idea. later on you can sell 243's and then it wont seem like it cost so much to get a better set of heads. when i did my H/C swap i wasent wanting to wait any longer! i was sooo excited to get all those parts on my car. i was a little dissapointed come dyno time tho and track time. i used a max effort cam(tsp tsunami) and ended up with small cam numbers and track times. i still dont know why it doesent perform better but oh well, i purchasing a large CI motor soon that should make me happy. sorry for the rambling, good luck with your build
Old 07-06-2012, 06:57 PM
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No problem, I like the input from people who have been there and done it before. Gives me hope I'll get there soon enough

As far as spring, what do you think about this kit? I'm just starting to research springs so I have no idea if this is more than I need or not. Would I need the spring retainer kit or do I just need the springs? I'm on a budget, but I do want to do it the right way. Either way, from what I'm seeing so far, this price looks pretty decent
https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-produ...its-219-a.html
Old 07-06-2012, 08:20 PM
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Comp PR length checker?
Old 07-07-2012, 12:22 PM
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http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=2
Old 07-07-2012, 03:06 PM
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I would get standard gm head bolts and put that extra money towards cometic .040 gaskets. If you were to consider that I'd call AI first and ask them about PTV clearance with that cam. Either way I wouldn't throw away an extra C-note on ARP head bolts on a naturally aspirated application
Old 07-07-2012, 07:39 PM
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the list looks pretty good, the only thing i would change is the oil pump, instead of high volume i would get a high pressure, also if you have the money i would do studs...ill be doing the swap in a week or two, good luck!!!
Old 07-08-2012, 02:48 AM
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02sslayer, why were you disappointed with your TSP heads? I just bought some and should be installed next week now you have me worried I screwed up.

Sorry to high jack the thread here
Old 07-08-2012, 03:26 AM
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DON'T CHEAP OUT ON SPRINGS!!!!

Trust a guy that's on motor #3. I ran patriot dual golds. 1 broke 1 cracking... Twice... Should have learned the 1st time.

Now running comp 921s. Will cheap springs break on you? Maybe not. But if they do, the few hundred $$ you spend now could save you thousands later on.

It did give me incentive to forge my current motor out lol
Old 07-08-2012, 08:18 AM
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Just little crap that i had ran into with my build so far..
130k on my car everything brittle ....
Knock sensor wiring harness, broke when trying to remove off knock sensors to replace knock sensors.

I went ahead and did the ls6 pcv conversion.

Also went ahead and did ported oil pump tsp's unit.

New oil pressure sensor.

New coolant temp sensor broke it clumsyness.

Be prepared for head bolt cleanout, lots of coolant and nasty gets in there.

I used wire wool and sctch pads to clean my block surface, there is better ways.

Teflon tape for new sensors ect,

When back together coolant to fill it back up, oil change handy.

Header gaskets, spark plug change . Ws6 store has oem header/manifold bolts.
New o2 sensors .

Thats what i have ran into so far for little stuff lots of nuts and bolts reccomend plastic baggies im kicking myself for not...
Old 07-08-2012, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by smahlum_21
02sslayer, why were you disappointed with your TSP heads? I just bought some and should be installed next week now you have me worried I screwed up.

Sorry to high jack the thread here
Dont worry about it there a great quality head and they do make good power. But they are a budget freindly head that doesnt make the power of a 2300 dollar head... So people get mad cause there 1400 dollar heads dont make the same power.. but its all about your setup.. ive seen 470plus rwhp with ms3 prc5.3 head combos... Bit they had full bolt ons and fast intakes.

Last edited by reeperz28; 07-08-2012 at 09:22 AM.


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