LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

long tubes on my 96 ws6.. almost all in. few questions..help

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Old 07-08-2012, 02:40 AM
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Default long tubes on my 96 ws6.. almost all in. few questions..help

whats up guys, havnt been on the forum in awhile. feels good to be back.

i recently picked up a 96 ws6 six speed. im in the middle of doing the long tube headers and y pipe.

they are pacesetters race header. no egr... i have them on spark plugs in, pulled the air pump,and have a few bumps before i can finally start her.

i dont have extentions nor think i will find some on a sunday. so i need to make some. any suggestions?

i also read somewhere that i need to plug some of the egr stuff with vacuum covers or something. can anyone shed some light on what exactly i would need and what to do?

other than that i think shes almost done. these long tubes were a pain on the floor. snapped three out of the six bolts on the stock manifold flanges.


thanks in advance for all the help.
Old 07-08-2012, 06:59 AM
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IMO:

o2 extensions are the only way to go. Just wait and get the correct plug and play parts.

The block off plates go on the back of the intake:

Old 07-08-2012, 08:02 AM
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you can make the block off plates pretty easily out of some sheet aluminum.. use stock gasket's as a template.. leave the egr noid in place... As far as the 02 extenders'.. your only real option is to wait for the plug and play like mentioned above.. or if your the daring type, cut, and solder new wire on your own in... No crimps..
Old 07-08-2012, 08:39 AM
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You really done need the block off plates. Take the pipe from the intake to the manifold off and throw it away. Then just take the vacuum line off the egr valve. If it has been operating correctly it should be closed. Cap the port on the egr solenoid for the line from the solenoid to the valve. If you leave the electrical plug in the solenoid, then the PCM should be just fine, and not throw a code for te egr. And it's a lot easier than trying to get fat hands to the back of the intake.
Old 07-08-2012, 09:46 AM
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Thanks guys.

Im trying to get a visual of everything you said (duh) my car is at my friends house so ill try to make sense if that when I get there.

I need to get my car running so I need to figure something out about the extensions. I heard of people extending them on their own without issues. I need to find a sauder gun cause I only have crimos lol. Do I need to use a special wire? Wish I could just get the extensions, but I completely forgot abiut them. My friend peer pressured me into getting them on this weekend.
Old 07-08-2012, 09:50 AM
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Also what would happen if I ran it with 02s unplugged? I can.imagine it would run like **** and foul my new plugs?
Old 07-08-2012, 10:06 AM
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Yea it'll run in "limp mode". It's only a little richer than where it should be. Your plugs should be fine. But your fuel economy will be through the floor. Aside from that you probably won't hurt anything, unless you still have cata on the car. You could ruin those.
Old 07-08-2012, 10:13 AM
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Nope no cats. Getting off road y pipe. Cool so ill leave the saudering for last. I already cut one o2 but didnt end up reaching. I was pissed. Maybe ill just order some extensions from summit. They usually take a day or two. Hopefully I can get the egr all plugged up and start my car in a few. if I get stuck ill be back on lol. Thanks guys! Much appreciated
Old 07-08-2012, 10:21 AM
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Cool so I also found someone to sauder those wires for me on 02s. Can I use any kind of wire thats similar size?
Old 07-08-2012, 10:30 AM
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Solder is the easiest thing of the whole swap cause I know how headers on a ltx can be. You can buy the stuff at pep boys or anywhere else really.
Old 07-08-2012, 10:45 AM
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just use #14 wire.. Make sure you don't mix them up, and send 12v where it's not supposed to go.. use color tape to mark them before you cut!
Old 07-09-2012, 05:52 PM
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She lives. Lol thanks guys. Hopefully this is my last ltx header swap.
Old 07-10-2012, 09:13 AM
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Out of curiosity, when you broke the exhaust manifold bolts off in the head, what did you do to get them out?
Old 07-13-2012, 12:38 AM
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Originally Posted by DisasterFormula
Out of curiosity, when you broke the exhaust manifold bolts off in the head, what did you do to get them out?
didnt break them in the head. i broke the ones on the three bolt flange from manifold to stock y pipe. i would have been crying if it was in the head. haha


i have some more questions see if you guys can help..

So got the car running. Ive been having issues with the fans coming on since before header install. I snapped the sensor on the driver side head witch I believe is a temp sensor.. Correct? I put a new one. Witch appears to be the same as the temp sensor I swapped underneath the waterpump. Are they suppose to be identical? After I swapped the one on the head I noticed my temp guage goes to the max even tho car is cold. Sometimes it will work normal but the fans still dont kick on. Any insights? i wired them with a switch for now and have no heating problems. but if i dont flip fans on myself they wont come on. the ac fan works tho when ac is on.
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Old 07-13-2012, 01:17 AM
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Ah, I gotcha. Those do seem to break quite often. I sprayed mine down the night before and then sprayed more liquid wrench on 'em before I started wrenching and they came right off. I have some broken off in my head and pretty much the only solution I've seen is to pull the head.

The temp sensor in the side of the head only controls the temp gauge and is a 1 wire input while the sensor in the wp is a 3 wire and gives the input to the PCM for how the car runs. As far as fans not kicking on, I dunno. I had to do the manual fan switch myself. I've heard a bad ECT in the WP can cause it, but my sensor is fine. Also, how did you wire your fan switch? Improperly doing it could be bad juju.
Old 07-13-2012, 01:44 AM
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i got a on/off switch that goes from battery to switch, than switch to fan number 1 on the left. i turn it off when car cools down and i flip it on around 210-215. hope the way i have it is fine?
Old 07-13-2012, 05:40 AM
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http://shbox.com/1/fan_sw_diagram2.jpg

I'm gonna recommend going with the above diagram. With that one, you run the risk of something shorting/grounding out and draining the battery. The PCM controls the fan by changing the grounds to them and completing the circuit from battery through the fans to ground. With this set up, you manually achieve the same thing.

I would say you could re-purpose those switches you already have. Just run the wires from the harness, put in the resistors, connect to the switches, then run the opposite pole on the switch to a good ground.

My car will stay around 190 when I'm moving. If I get stuck in traffic, I'll turn on the low speed and leave it on. I can sit there in 100*+ weather and it won't go too high. I try to turn it on low as soon as the temp hits 190 or so, as long as I remember. If I click on high speed fans, it'll actually cool it off enough for the 180* thermo to close up, or close to that temp, anyway. Also, I recommend turning off the fan at high speeds, say 55+, b/c they can actually reduce the cooling effect of incoming air.
Old 07-14-2012, 12:14 PM
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Nice thanks for the info bro. Defiantly will be reading into that diagram. Right now.i have it run to the stock positive wire for the left fan. So its using the stock ground. The right fan functions as it should with AC on. Also could the temp guage be acting up because its not threaded in enough or something? It got tight about hakfway on the threads. I didnt wanna force it.
Old 07-14-2012, 04:17 PM
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Yeah, with the set up shbox uses, the PCM can still turn the fans on.



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