Small Block & Big Block Chevy Specific - break in oil?

so im gettin my rotating assembly balanced for my new 383 stroker. so i should be puttin it together within two weeks or so. i spared no expense in this build so i was just wondering what guys have run for the break in period. here's the motor

383 Gen I block 4BM
11:5 to 1 Compression
Probe forged pistons
58cc aluminum heads, 2.02/1.60 valves.
Solid roller cam, roller lifters, 1.7 roller rockers (all comp cam's valvetrain even springs/timing chain)
Forged Scat crankshaft and rods
Arp bolts in everything.

i think thats it lol. so what do you guys run for break in oil on your new motor setup?

Used to run diesel oil before they robbed the good stuff out of it, now there are break in oils available.

Break in oil??? Never heard of it!!!!

Just run something non-synthetic and you will be fine. If it was a flat-tappet cam I would suggest the comp-cam oil additive but with your roller you will be fine.

Break in oil??? Never heard of it!!!!

i hope you're jokin :nod:

Just run something non-synthetic and you will be fine. If it was a flat-tappet cam I would suggest the comp-cam oil additive but with your roller you will be fine.

i was thinking just normal non-synthetic castrol oil. then switch after a few hrs on the motor. i just like to get opinions on ppl experiences.

Several cars come from the factory with synthetic oils from the factory!! Porsche for example

Several cars come from the factory with synthetic oils from the factory!! Porsche for example

or all the new ls motors like the camaros and corvettes come with mobile 1 synthetic right from the factory.

they do make break in oil. But I dont think it is needed.

I like Mobil drive clean 5000 with red line additive for the 1st 20 min of run time. It has a ton of detergents, also use a good filter (I run napa golds on everything I do)

Then change it & filter, run for 500 miles or so w/ what ever you use w/ the other half of the redline additive.

My shit dont break so it works for me. (I also assemble all my engine jobs)

Nope not joking!!

You should break in your engine with conventional oil, then switch to a synthetic oil like Mobil 1.
Reality:
You can start using Mobil 1 in new vehicles at any time, even in brand new vehicles. In fact, Mobil 1 is original equipment (it is installed at the factory) in:


Acura RDX
Aston Martin DB9, DB9 Volante, DBS, DBS Volante, Virage, Virage Volante, Rapide
All Bentley Vehicles
Bristol Fighter
Chevrolet Camaro SS
Chevrolet Corvette Z06, ZR1 and Grand Sport Coupe
Chevrolet CR8
Chrysler 300C SRT-8
Dodge Challenger SRT-8
Holden HSV
Ilmor MV-10 710 Marine Engines
Lexus LFA
Mercedes-Benz AMG Vehicles
Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution
Nissan GT-R
Opel Insignia
All Porsche Vehicles
All S&S Motorcycles
Saab 9-3 TTiD
Vauxhall VXR8
Viper Motorcycles

One of the myths surrounding synthetic oils is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil. The fact is, current engine manufacturing technology does not require this break-in period. As indicated by the decisions of the engineers who design the high-performance cars listed above, Mobil 1 can be used starting the day you drive the car off the showroom floor.

well, technology is alil different today. the newer motors do come with synthetic, i know that. im pretty sure my SS did. i just dont feel like spending thousands of dollars just to spin a bearing right after its put together.

Why would you spin a BEARING???? That makes no sense. If you spin a bearing it has nothing to do with the oil??? I am not getting what you are saying!!!

i was just throwing out an idea. but nvrmind i have my answer.

I used to beat my motors for a week with regular oil, then switch if i wanted to to synthetic after a month. Synthetic can prevent proper ring seating and what not. So i made sure it was bet in.

Synthetic can prevent proper ring seating and what not.

WOW do you not realize 2 dozen and counting brand new cars come from the factory with SYNTHETICS.

__________________

And please look up all the TSB's for oil consumption problems on some of those lmao.

Also alot of high end car manufactures fire their engins or cold run them before they install them. that will also break in/ seat the rings. Check out BMW they do it to ALL their engines.

The biggest reason for "break-In oil" is when you build an engine there is dirt, fresh metal shavings from new parts (springs bearings ect ect ect) lint and an excessive amount of abrasive break-in lube. All those things are collected in the oil and filter during the first heat cycles. Why spend the money on synthetic for this reason?

Synthetic can prevent proper ring seating and what not.

WOW do you not realize 2 dozen and counting brand new cars come from the factory with SYNTHETICS.

__________________

The build/honing process and ring materials etc vary between a rebuilt shortblock with aftermarket parts vs a factory assembled/stock parts shortblock. The end goal for the build differs as well. All of that makes for varying needs and procedures both during the build and during initial run time. What the factory does is not one size fits all.

We supply Joe Gibbs break-in oil with all of our custom shortblocks.

Ssssxxxxxxxx

This answer is straight from the MOBIL ENGINEERS!!!

Is it true that new engines need break-in periods using conventional motor oil?


That is a myth. In the past, engine break-in was necessary to remove metal flashing or any other abrasive material left inside the engine after machining, as well as to allow the valves and rings to "seat" properly. Today's engines are built with much tighter tolerances, much improved machining, and under much cleaner conditions compared to the engines of 10 or 20 years ago. Current engine manufacturing technology does not require a break-in period using petroleum-based motor oils.

Most ring manufacters recommend running conventional oil to help with ring seating. I know that alot of cars come with synthetic but they also get broke in on a dyno and get an oil change before they are put in the car for people to buy. I know there have probably been several engines use synthetic straight from the start without failure. Final honing and ring material also have a factor in how the rings seat. So why not just play it safe and use conventional?

jeez i didnt realize this would start a big issue. ill have alot of machine work done (balancing, honing and i need to file fit my rings). they're plasma moly rings (what probe pistons recommended). they make break-in oil right? must be a reason. if you use conventional thats fine as well, i just wondered what other ppl have used. i think my ole' sbc is alil behind the technology of todays motors too.

If people ask questions on a BLOG the truth or the facts should be printed. NOT SOME OLD WIVES TALES. As an engine builder for many many years i pride myself on accuracy and a NO BS answer. If you feel you need Olive oil to break in your engine who am i to argur. But as i have many friends that build aircraft engines as well as lawn mower engines this oil break in issue is basically NONSENSE. Even in the aircraft industry they are aware of it. Now if you think a car engine is expensive try pricing out a aircraft unit. All i was doing is posting my experience and with talking to our vendors. Our oil and ring vendors tell us synthetics are fine. And we go by their recommendations, If you dont want to believe this thats fine. Just wanted to post the facts on the issue.

There is a pervasive myth in the aviation piston-engine world: the myth claims that in order to break-in a new or freshly overhauled engine or cylinder, straight mineral oil must be used during the break-in period. The term "straight mineral oil" refers to oil that does not contain the ashless dispersant chemicals found in AD or ashless dispersant oil.

Every mechanic has been told from the beginning of time that engines must be broken in on mineral oil. The reasoning behind this claim is that when an engine is run for the first time, it is necessary for the piston rings to seat themselves to the cylinder walls. Properly seated rings provide a fit that keeps compressions high and oil consumption low. Mineral oil, it is claimed, allows seating to occur because it isn’t so slippery that rings won’t be able to wear off the microscopic metal mountain peaks that populate the material that makes up the steel cylinder walls. This part is true. The rings do have to seat, by wearing smooth the metal peaks.

Ashless dispersant oil, the myth says, is too slippery and too good at preventing wear to allow the rings to seat properly. We have all heard this, it gets passed from mechanic to mechanic, and it even sounds kind of logical. Theoretically, AD oil contains some special chemical that gives it more lubricity and greater film strength than straight mineral oil.

But this simply isn’t true.

If people ask questions on a BLOG the truth or the facts should be printed. NOT SOME OLD WIVES TALES. As an engine builder for many many years i pride myself on accuracy and a NO BS answer. If you feel you need Olive oil to break in your engine who am i to argur. But as i have many friends that build aircraft engines as well as lawn mower engines this oil break in issue is basically NONSENSE. Even in the aircraft industry they are aware of it. Now if you think a car engine is expensive try pricing out a aircraft unit. All i was doing is posting my experience and with talking to our vendors. Our oil and ring vendors tell us synthetics are fine. And we go by their recommendations, If you dont want to believe this thats fine. Just wanted to post the facts on the issue.

There is a pervasive myth in the aviation piston-engine world: the myth claims that in order to break-in a new or freshly overhauled engine or cylinder, straight mineral oil must be used during the break-in period. The term "straight mineral oil" refers to oil that does not contain the ashless dispersant chemicals found in AD or ashless dispersant oil.

Every mechanic has been told from the beginning of time that engines must be broken in on mineral oil. The reasoning behind this claim is that when an engine is run for the first time, it is necessary for the piston rings to seat themselves to the cylinder walls. Properly seated rings provide a fit that keeps compressions high and oil consumption low. Mineral oil, it is claimed, allows seating to occur because it isn’t so slippery that rings won’t be able to wear off the microscopic metal mountain peaks that populate the material that makes up the steel cylinder walls. This part is true. The rings do have to seat, by wearing smooth the metal peaks.

Ashless dispersant oil, the myth says, is too slippery and too good at preventing wear to allow the rings to seat properly. We have all heard this, it gets passed from mechanic to mechanic, and it even sounds kind of logical. Theoretically, AD oil contains some special chemical that gives it more lubricity and greater film strength than straight mineral oil.

But this simply isn’t true.

We aren't in the aircraft industry and we aren't talking about mineral spirits. As stated before, there is no one size fits all answer. What's right in a factory engine or an aviation application may not be relevant to the application in question. Just because something is more expensive (aircraft situation) doesn't mean that what you do with it is what you should do in an aftermarket automotive application.

We build high performance engines and we do it with specific procedures and with rings that require and absolutely do respond to certain running parameters during initial break-in with one of those parameters being the type of oil used. It's acceptable for you to disagree and have your own opinion, but to come in here and call it nonsense and completely disregard the need for proper break-in in any and all applications no matter what honing procedure was used, what the rings are made out of, and what the parts manufacturers have found to be best for their own parts. . .well that's simply ignorant nonsense.

We build the engines in question. We use the parts in question. Based on our experience with the application and parts in question, proper break-in is required. There is a reason that we supply break-in oil with our custom shortblocks at no charge to the customer.

Dear Mr Falco:

Get out and do. Dont just read the internet. Then please put your voice your oppinion. You are just quoting internet posts and jargon.

Thanks
Someone who dose

Dear Mr Falco:

Get out and do. Dont just read the internet. Then please put your voice your oppinion. You are just quoting internet posts and jargon.

Thanks
Someone who dose


http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx46/proguns/006-7.jpg

You dont do custom work like this if i fell off a turnip truck last week. And what is your expertise in the automotive field DIRTY BIRD. Thank you so much for your kind words i will remember them always. Have to go engines are waiting for me Thanks

We build the engines in question. We use the parts in question. Based on our experience with the application and parts in question, proper break-in is required. There is a reason that we supply break-in oil with our custom shortblocks at no charge to the customer.

^thanks.

I subcontract for a local LS shop, bike shop, and run my own shop. I have built engines for many things from ls9's, ls7's bbc's sbc's and many lsx's to go-carts. I do tuning, both carbs and computer, and I race. But this is the internet so who knows right ;)