New LS1 Owners - Newbie Tech - Best place to start modding?

Ok so I have a '99 Camaro I just got that's stock except for the following...
SLP air intake
SLP loudmouth II exhaust
Air/Fuel ratio gauge
Trans Temp gauge
Different hood... It's got a hood scoop but more toward the very front, not in the same place as the SS hood.
(Figured I'd list everything and I bought it like this a couple weeks ago, I say this because from what I've read a lot of you don't like SLP)

Anyways I was wondering what you all thought would be the best place to start at? I was thinking about buying a new intake manifold specifically the FAST LSX 102mm Intake Manifold with the MAF and the 102mm throttle body... What do you all think of that as a starting place? What are thoughts on the 92mm manifold instead of the 102mm. I'm not trying to build a drag car just a really really fast street car. (Not saying that I wouldn't want to get something because it would make the car too fast!)

I know this question has probably been asked a lot but I thought it would be best if I asked with you knowing what my car already has etc.

Thanks in advance to all who help!

Check the so you want to be fast sticky

Well I'm embarrassed! Wow I searched for that but it didn't show up... Well then...
Thanks!

Headers, Y pipe, and intake manifold will wake it up quite a bit.

start with headers and a new cat-back first.

Agreed, help get the air in and out efficiently first and those mods will enable you to make more power with every mod you do in the future!

No problem man. Like the others said I'd start with some lt headers and if you don't mind loud get the Texas speed true dual setup. Ls6 intake is a good upgrade would be about a 1/3 of the price if a fast 102 but if you got the money go for it!

Jordan

A Stall. Or if you're a six speed... a complete 6-speed to auto swap :punch: :judge: :jest:

Suspension

A Stall. Or if you're a six speed... a complete 6-speed to auto swap :punch: :judge: :jest:

and thats not a bad idea either :D

Stall and a tranny cooler for the win! I would hold off on the FAST 102/102 and opt for a LS6 intake with a ported stock TB. Your not making enough power to get the full effects of a Fast 102/102 setup. And your gonna need some money for the tuner to dial it all in.

What would you recommend for headers? I've always had my eyes on a pair of Hooker headers but you all know a lot more than me on this so what would you suggest?

What would you recommend for headers? I've always had my eyes on a pair of Hooker headers but you all know a lot more than me on this so what would you suggest?

Pacesetter Lt's or texas speed Lt's are good headers for the money if your on a low budget. If you want High quality headers id go with ARH or Kooks, But their alot more expensive,

Check out the Texas speed long tubes. Good fitment, great quality, amazing sound at an affordable price.

A Stall. Or if you're a six speed... a complete 6-speed to auto swap :punch: :judge: :jest:

yea, you wouldn't what to have to be challenged by a third pedal.

yea, you wouldn't what to have to be challenged by a third pedal.

:jest: lol it already has an auto... Wish it was manual...

Sub frame connectors, exhaust, intake. Should really feel a difference.

yea, you wouldn't what to have to be challenged by a third pedal.

Says the guy that quotes a 1.7 60' in his sig...

First things first... Rearend! You wont be going any faster if your rearend fails u. If you cant afford it, save up.

Oh and your hood is the same as mine, they call it an ultra z hood.

being an auto a 3600 lock up stall with the biggest tranny cooler you can fit should be your first mod along with some sticky tires lol

Says the guy that quotes a 1.7 60' in his sig...

You said it all, alot easier hitting a low sixty foot with an automatic. The sixty foot could also have to do with launching a full weight car including 16 sheats of dynomat and my fat butt. But at least I know that the number I made is my driving not the stalls.
That being said, I can swap the tires and head to a road course for some fun also. Try that with a big stall.

LT hands down should be where you start. You already have the exhaust so intake would be next. As far as slp, their exhausts are ok, everything else though.............

You said it all, alot easier hitting a low sixty foot with an automatic. The sixty foot could also have to do with launching a full weight car including 16 sheats of dynomat and my fat butt. But at least I know that the number I made is my driving not the stalls.
That being said, I can swap the tires and head to a road course for some fun also. Try that with a big stall.

You can enjoy twists, I enjoy setting up my car so that it launches so hard it feels like I got hit in the back with a shovel.

Any dummy with a stalled auto can beat a manual off the line. Takes a good bit of seat time and skill to drive it to it's potential. Cutting high 1.5s with a full weight bolt on LS1 with a 255 street radial is harder than you think.

First things first... Rearend! You wont be going any faster if your rearend fails u. If you cant afford it, save up.

Ya i heard they are complete garbage for anything slightly above stock. I was looking at Texas Speed for it. After I got that I was going to get LT headers from Texas Speed and was maybe looking at a Performabuilt trans. That way I can do whatever I what at the engine and know the trans/rear can handle it...

Oh and your hood is the same as mine, they call it an ultra z hood.

Thanks I've been looking for the name of it but couldn't find it.

How many people have used the Performabuilt trans? I was wondering about there quality etc.

You can enjoy twists, I enjoy setting up my car so that it launches so hard it feels like I got hit in the back with a shovel.

Any dummy with a stalled auto can beat a manual off the line. Takes a good bit of seat time and skill to drive it to it's potential. Cutting high 1.5s with a full weight bolt on LS1 with a 255 street radial is harder than you think.

I find it funny that your other vehicle is all about the rider. You would never consider putting an auto in that.
As far as my 1.7 sixty foot. I'm not really disappointed with only about 25 runs down the 1/4 mile.

You can enjoy twists, I enjoy setting up my car so that it launches so hard it feels like I got hit in the back with a shovel.

Any dummy with a stalled auto can beat a manual off the line. Takes a good bit of seat time and skill to drive it to it's potential. Cutting high 1.5s with a full weight bolt on LS1 with a 255 street radial is harder than you think.

I'm at a loss as how this is relevant to the thread??? We all like what we like, leave it at that. We all have different goals for what we want.

OP

you should look into:

Stall
Subframe connectors
Long Tubes

How many people have used the Performabuilt trans? I was wondering about there quality etc.

It's hard to go wrong with Performabuilt, RPM, or any of the other big name trans vendors on this site. But if you're thinking about getting a built trans and a stall, my advice is to buy them at the same time. I've been looking into built transmissions, and I'm finding that if I install my used SS4000 with their new trans it voids their warranty. It's something I overlooked when I bought my stall that I wish I would've thought of.

If you get a stall, try to think about where you want to go with the car. Do you want a cam? Nitrous? Forced induction? Or is it going to be just bolt ons for a while? Even if you're not sure, it's good to buy parts that will handle what you're goals are. Quality stalls are expensive, and stall speed is just one spec of many to consider. Getting the right part the first time saves a lot of money in the long run.

I'm at a loss as how this is relevant to the thread??? We all like what we like, leave it at that. We all have different goals for what we want.

OP

you should look into:

Stall
Subframe connectors
Long Tubes

Read the thread, it'll make sense. And IMO, my post was more relevant than listing the same three mods that people have been suggesting for two pages. I'm pretty sure those mods have been covered multiple times and he's asking for different advice now.

Well I did read the thread and in the first post he says hes not trying to build a drag car, just a street car.

Then you post a smarty comment about if hes a M6 swapping to to a auto and you go on and on about 60 foot times and yadda yadda..... yeah I don't see the relevance. OP even stated he wish it was a manual so....???

Only one guy posted about the SFC so I thought I would repeat that because I think they are important. Everyone has said stall because they are tantamount to what a Tick master cylinder is for a stick car, you almost HAVE to get one. Long tube are one of the best bolt on upgrades there are. That was more helpful that your "auto swap".

Since your car is an A4, a stall should be your first mod, no question about it. Will completely transform its personality.
If you choose to purchase long tubes, get the 1 7/8", not the 1 3/4".
As far as the 10 bolt is concerned, provided it is in good condition, you should have no problems with it any time soon, especially on street tires. Autos are much less taxing on them than M6s. I've had no problems with the 10 bolt in this car, and my last car, a '93 Z28 with an A4 and a 383 with a TTi kit, failed to harm the 10 bolt as well.

Well I did read the thread and in the first post he says hes not trying to build a drag car, just a street car.

Then you post a smarty comment about if hes a M6 swapping to to a auto and you go on and on about 60 foot times and yadda yadda..... yeah I don't see the relevance.

Maybe you read the thread, but it was late and I don't think you caught who the OP was:

THIS is the OP. He has an auto trans.
:jest: lol it already has an auto... Wish it was manual...


Stalled autos are made to launch, 60' times show what they are capable of.

If anyone wants to tell me how funny it is I have a bike and a stalled auto, how great manuals are at road racing, or how much skill it takes to drive a manual, PM me. Otherwise, I think the OP asked a question about Performabuilt...

I don't think your getting the point I was making but it doesn't matter.

^^^ OP said he wanted M6 after the auto swap was suggested.

I agree with Golf&GM... no need to suggest parts that have already been suggested.

One guy once told me If I can't contribute to the thread then dnt post... Lol I think that was you 6speedZ.

Since your car is an A4, a stall should be your first mod, no question about it. Will completely transform its personality.
If you choose to purchase long tubes, get the 1 7/8", not the 1 3/4".
As far as the 10 bolt is concerned, provided it is in good condition, you should have no problems with it any time soon, especially on street tires. Autos are much less taxing on them than M6s. I've had no problems with the 10 bolt in this car, and my last car, a '93 Z28 with an A4 and a 383 with a TTi kit, failed to harm the 10 bolt as well.

This guy knows what's up.

You already have some bolt on's. Get a 3600 converter and big trans cooler. If you plan on a good sized cam anytime soon go for a 4000, but anything under 3600 on a stock or small cam is kind of a waste. The drivability difference between something like a 3200 to a 3600 is negligible at best. If you have decent tires already, you'll be in the mid to low 12's.

If you have the extra money on hand, throw on the longtubes and LS6 intake (will flow plenty until you're looking at big heads and cam package) with the converter and get it dyno tuned. Feel free to add some 3.42 or 3.73 gears too, but I wouldn't go any higher with the A4.

After that, if you're still yearning for an M6 to throw in the twisties, sell it and buy a Miata.

FWIW - the 10 bolt isn't that bad. M6's can break them on stock power with a dead hook, or they can last into the 11's. Same thing with the A4 except it's much more likely to last. I'm sure some A4 10 bolts have gone on stock power, but there's probably 100 times that number that have gone into the 10's on a stock 10 bolt.

^^^ OP said he wanted M6 after the auto swap was suggested.

I agree with Golf&GM... no need to suggest parts that have already been suggested.

One guy once told me If I can't contribute to the thread then dnt post... Lol I think that was you 6speedZ.


My point was in the very first post he says, its a street car. Dude starts talking about auto swaps and 60' foot times (when the car is already an automatic :bang:) and that autos are soooo proven on the track. That is all irrelevant because he doesn't give a shit about that as he not interested in drag racing. Am I the only one that read that?

2win_ss... you fail.

If you choose to purchase long tubes, get the 1 7/8", not the 1 3/4".


New member here, I have read all the stickies but have not come across this yet. What are the benefits from this?

Better power, some people will tell you they are to big on stock cubes and cost you power down low but that's a myth. It has been proven that make more power everywhere.

Texas Speed makes a great 1-7/8 stainless header at a really reasonable price.

Better power, some people will tell you they are to big on stock cubes and cost you power down low but that's a myth. It has been proven that make more power everywhere.

Texas Speed makes a great 1-7/8 stainless header at a really reasonable price.

^^^ the test TSP did between pacesetter 1 3/4 and TSP 1 7/8 did not so gains EVERYWHERE like you just post... They actually lost a little mid range TQ and HP but gained up top...

The OP stated he had a A4 AFTER Golf had suggest M6-A4 swap... I know I'm not the only who read that.

My6speedZ... You fail

But it's all good.

Yeah I saw that post too and if I recall it says the 7/8 headers pulled away from 4000+ which is well within the operating range of where you will be when at the strip or track.

Even below 4000rpm TSP said they were even and no loss. Brian Tooley says the same thing. They gain on stock cubic inches.

Here you go 2win_ss :swing:

http://ls1tech.com/forums/10047483-post1.html

http://ls1tech.com/forums/15893439-post17.html



Originally Posted by Brian Tooley
I've posted this about a thousand times, but I'm going to post it one more time.

In the back to back testing we did, heads with 1.55" exhaust valves MADE MORE POWER EVERYWHERE WITH 1 7/8" HEADERS COMPARED TO 1 3/4"

Heads with 1.57" valves seemed to make about the same power either way.

The AFR heads with 1.60" valves made less power with Kooks 1 7/8" headers compared to Hooker 1 3/4" with a cam that had 2 degree split.

So in my humble opinion, his headers were helping his stock heads, but worked against the AFR heads.

I did almost all the boltons and stalled it first.
Now its heads,cam,intake and 3.73 time.
Seemed like good order to me.

You got your car back man?

^^^ post the whole thread about TSP test on 1 3/4 vs 1 7/8... Let's read it all. Not just a single post. I'll be waiting:corn:

I'm Not sayn I wouldn't get 1 7/8... Just saying your post wasn't 100% true

You got your car back man?

nope hopefully by sat :D

^^^ post the whole thread about TSP test on 1 3/4 vs 1 7/8... Let's read it all. Not just a single post. I'll be waiting:corn:

http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iv-internal-engine/981234-stock-motor-1-3-4-vs-1-7-8-engine-dyno-results.html


If the larger primary is damn near even at 3000 to 4000 rpm and pulls away from there up, I would say that is a gain across the board. WTF, do you expect it to gain 10 horsepower at idle? Come on, your still butt hurt about me calling you out for being a post whore in the other thread.

If you want to pick apart my post because I offended you by telling you that you make retarded post, whatever I don't care. But you shouldn't cloud the guy's (the one that asked about the headers) head with false information so he waste his money in some vain attempt to make me look stupid.