brents 69 camaro build
07-12-2012, 10:35 AM
#1
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brents 69 camaro build 
its at paint right now. this is an original v8 car in factory orange... going back to orange with white stripes.
and the donor car: 1999 firehawk
this is a 327hp ls1 with auto transmission. 57k original miles.
i need to find out if i can use the brakes off of this thing, and i need to choose which motor mounts to use, need a gas tank with pump, need headers, and rims, need a radiator.
any suggestions would be highly appreciated!
07-12-2012, 11:18 AM
#2
its at paint right now. this is an original v8 car in factory orange... going back to orange with white stripes.
this is a 327hp ls1 with auto transmission. 57k original miles.
i need to find out if i can use the brakes off of this thing, and i need to choose which motor mounts to use, need a gas tank with pump, need headers, and rims, need a radiator.
any suggestions would be highly appreciated!
I chose Hooker ceramic headers 1-HKR for 67-69 Camaro. Hooker motor plates (I'll get back to you with the model #)-there are choices with Hookers that give you varied clearances. With Hooker plates, I was able to use my stock oil pan (no modifications or cutting/no welding).
Other folks will have varied reasons for using other brands of plates. They're all worthy reasons, and you can choose your preference.
Energy Suspension poly motor mounts.
Don't know what your budget is, but the stock radiator could do, for now. I have a BeCool direct fit for 67-69 Camaro. Hoses will have to be adapted.
Stock fans can be adapted to the BeCool, if need be.
Best of luck with your build!
07-12-2012, 11:30 AM
#3
congrats. I did an ls1 into a 65 impala. if you go with headers get a street tune, ask me how I know you will need this. an item called fuel trim will be different for the headers and different exhaust.
as for the radiator, you can easily make mounts for the firebird radiator if it is good. Simple mig welding of some 2x4 steel made mine. should be plenty of room, you should not need a shroud these run really cool. my fan never came on until the tuner lowered the temp to 180.
I put a gas tank from a 1998 impala in mine. Not sure where your gas fill neck goes, but sure there is something you can just hang somewhere.
good luck.
as for the radiator, you can easily make mounts for the firebird radiator if it is good. Simple mig welding of some 2x4 steel made mine. should be plenty of room, you should not need a shroud these run really cool. my fan never came on until the tuner lowered the temp to 180.
I put a gas tank from a 1998 impala in mine. Not sure where your gas fill neck goes, but sure there is something you can just hang somewhere.
good luck.
07-12-2012, 12:57 PM
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Yes, you can use all the stock ls1 brakes. You will need drum brake spindles and hubs from a 69 Camaro and a custom bracket that bolts the calipers to it. For the rear, you will or may not need the spacers between your axle mounting points and the backing plate from the ls1. Thats what I did. Check out my thread for more info. If you have any questions just shoot me a PM and I will also send you some links of other peoples swaps.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ss-ls-t56.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ss-ls-t56.html
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07-12-2012, 08:51 PM
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Yep.. Slid sideways into a telephone pole... If anyone needs parts off of this let me know, sold the ashtray and the hood latch.
Got a summit number on the energy susp poly mounts gmag?
Got a summit number on the energy susp poly mounts gmag?
Last edited by macblastr; 07-12-2012 at 10:16 PM.
07-12-2012, 11:22 PM
#9
The motor adapter plate part #12611 HKR leaves you 1 1/2" clearance to the firewall on the pass side head, & 2 1/2" on driver's side. This is in combination with Energy Suspension poly mounts #3.1114G. Though the mounts come with metal backing plates, the backing plates are not used.
This combination will cause the engine to sit slightly lower than other brands. I had to shave the bottom screw on my alternator to clear the crossmember. Not a big deal.
This combination will cause the engine to sit slightly lower than other brands. I had to shave the bottom screw on my alternator to clear the crossmember. Not a big deal.
07-14-2012, 09:58 AM
#12
You may already know but using the f body brakes you will have to run at least a 17 inch wheel.Some say they ground enough off the calipers to run 15 inch wheels but I don't know if I would want to try that.On my next fuel tank I will use an oem type tank with the new tanks inc. in tank kit which uses a 255 walbro pump.
Last edited by SUPERBOOST; 07-14-2012 at 10:04 AM.
07-23-2012, 09:50 PM
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The car should be out of paint friday, so far the tank is here, the fuel pump, headers, motor mounts, radiator, brake conversion kit, tubular control arms, and dynamat are here... Time to get to work... Will post pics
07-23-2012, 11:28 PM
#15
When you pull off the rear brakes make sure to hang on to the horseshoe-shaped piece with the backing plates, as someone said you might or might not need it as a spacer, I did but it took some grinding on the inside surface to fit over the axle. Swapping the backing plates from left to right will make the e-brake front rather than rear pull, but at least in my case it makes it impossible to slip the new f-body cables back onto the arm once everything else is assembled. Some people apparently just loop and clamp their original cable on there, fastenal sells wire clamps for about a buck a piece (grabbed some myself a few hours ago).
04-17-2013, 02:39 PM
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been away (sick) here are some updated photos of whats been going on
back from paint
motor out of firehawk
front upper and lower control arms replaced and front drums replaced with the firehawk disc brakes
now i need to send off the pcm... any suggestions on a reputable person to program?
back from paint
motor out of firehawk
front upper and lower control arms replaced and front drums replaced with the firehawk disc brakes
now i need to send off the pcm... any suggestions on a reputable person to program?
Last edited by macblastr; 04-17-2013 at 04:35 PM.
04-17-2013, 05:11 PM
#17
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You can use quite a bit of the donor car in your conversion depending on how far you want to go. I would not sell anything until you figure out what you really want to use on the car. As for the mounts the main factor is if you want to use A/C and use the stock location for that otherwise you will be looking at accessory adapters. I believe with the hooker setup it puts the motor pretty far back. Different mounts give different headaches. If you want I have some pics of my conversion I can send you...
