M2W-GTO

I'm currently running 11.0:1 CR on a forged iron block 347.
The parts list on the lower end listed in the picture below:

I have it paired with a Futral f14, 232/234 .598/.598 114+2lsa cam shaft. Ported 243's.

I'm running a procharger f1. Will my dynamic Compression end up being to high? What could I do to make the setup work? Or do I need to change things on the setup?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

westtexasbuff

iTrader: (40)

Good tune and e85/racegas, you should be ok. What head gaskets are you running?

Ping King

iTrader: (20)

I don't see any info where it states your comp ratio?

What fuel do you run now? How much timing? Boost levels planned?

M2W-GTO

Stock Mls gaskets
CR is 11.0:1. Currently running 93 octane. The tuner said he had the timing all the way to 0 and I was still getting spark knock at 4500-5000 rpms. Max boost I'd want is 15 psi.

Johnv

Either E85 /a meth kit, or swap the 243s for some 317s and i would still run meth injection

6D9 Matt

Yeah Id say 11:1 is pretty high without E85 or race gas. Ideally Id want to be around 9.5-10:1 on straight pump, and a trustworthy tuner.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Static means NOTHING!

Is the piston zero decked, in the hole?

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

8.34 DCR according to my calculator and that is with the piston in the hole with stock specs(-.006)

Which will work fine on pump gas, but I'd use methanol injection with 100% for the added octane.

The ls1 computers have an issue with picking up false knock in the peak torque or max load areas, especially in the rpm area you are speaking of.

If he had it all the way down to 0 degrees timing then it's not spark knock.

What do the plugs tell you? Any shiny aluminum speckling on the porcelain? Any black peppering on the porcelain? What plugs are you running? Hopefully not a projected tip TR6...

The plug will tell the true tale.

M2W-GTO

The plugs were speckled, but he ran it on the dyno the first pass super lean.. Looking more and more like a tuning issue..

Pistons are flat tops, motor was originally built for nitrous. Plugs are Br8's I believe.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

What was the AFR during those runs?

B8's(they are B8's for sure if they are NGK part number 1049) are what I would use also, some people seem to can't get over using that "cold" of a plug but that's the plug I would use in your set-up and many others.

Hmm, when you say timing was at 0 you mean he took it all the way down to 0 degrees during the pull and it still showed knock?

Put a new set of plugs in it, put the timing at 10* from the rpm your first see boost to red line and put the AFR at 11.4. Make a pull/pass where ever you can safely and easily shut it down after the pull by cutting the car off at the end of the pull/run. Make sure when you do this you do it as close to the way you would run it at the track. You can also do a 3rd gear pull from say 40-50mph and run it up to 6000-6200rpm and then pull them if you do it on the roadway.

Just make sure you get significant heat in the plug so you can get a true reading and post the pictures up here or PM them to me.

A lot of times with the LS1 pcm's we have to pull the timing back 1-2* sometimes as much as 4* between 4000-5000rpm because of the knock sensors on these cars. That is if you keep them as sensitive as they are now.

Most of the time you can cut the knock sensitivity in half and it will eradicate this problem while still keeping working knock sensors.

M2W-GTO

What's your email? I can forward the logs to you, I can't open them on my phone though.