200-250 shot questions...which fuel pump and which nitrous setup?
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200-250 shot questions...which fuel pump and which nitrous setup?
Anyhow, I have a forged 347 on its way setup for lots of nitrous (up to a 350 shot per AP engineering).
All I have now is a standard NX wet shot, and I'm wondering what I need to do to safely spray a 150 shot for the street, and a 200-250 shot at the track.
At the track, if I can get away with a standard wet kit spraying a 200 shot in dual stages then I'll just stick with that.
What's the max that is safe to spray with a standard wet kit? I don't want my rear cylinders leaning out......eventually I'll go direct port if I have to, with a standalone fuel system for when I spray...but for now, I'm looking to get the most out of my current setup.
For fuel I was going to get a Walbro 255lph pump, but will that be enough to support a 200 shot? With a 200 shot I would be around 650rwhp/750rwtq, and I'm not sure if that pump could handle it. Do I need to upgrade the fule lines and fuel rails as well?
The heads coming with the forged motor are TEA's stg. 2.5 LS6 heads hand finished to competition level with the special nitrous port.
All I have now is a standard NX wet shot, and I'm wondering what I need to do to safely spray a 150 shot for the street, and a 200-250 shot at the track.
At the track, if I can get away with a standard wet kit spraying a 200 shot in dual stages then I'll just stick with that.
What's the max that is safe to spray with a standard wet kit? I don't want my rear cylinders leaning out......eventually I'll go direct port if I have to, with a standalone fuel system for when I spray...but for now, I'm looking to get the most out of my current setup.
For fuel I was going to get a Walbro 255lph pump, but will that be enough to support a 200 shot? With a 200 shot I would be around 650rwhp/750rwtq, and I'm not sure if that pump could handle it. Do I need to upgrade the fule lines and fuel rails as well?
The heads coming with the forged motor are TEA's stg. 2.5 LS6 heads hand finished to competition level with the special nitrous port.
Last edited by verbs; 04-02-2004 at 05:53 PM.
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I think the key is getting a fuel regulator up on the rail to work with your pump. If you got the dual walbros and a front mount regulator with rails you would be in good shape.
If you really dont want to worry you could install a low pressure alternate fuel system which will feed the nitrous independently of your reg fuel system. I planned on doing this and this way you can get away with probably the intank single walbro and some good injectors for NA racing while the alternate fuel system will give all the fuel needed for the nitrous.
If you really dont want to worry you could install a low pressure alternate fuel system which will feed the nitrous independently of your reg fuel system. I planned on doing this and this way you can get away with probably the intank single walbro and some good injectors for NA racing while the alternate fuel system will give all the fuel needed for the nitrous.
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Here is a recent thread about max hp with single pumps,
https://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-injection/155524-whats-max-rwhp-walbro-340-intank-hotwire-kit-volt-booster-will-support-725rwhp.html
Here is a good thread with more links regarding the front mounted fuel pressure regulator.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-injection/152014-can-i-run-universal-fuel-pressure-regulator-off-my-fuel-rails.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-injection/155524-whats-max-rwhp-walbro-340-intank-hotwire-kit-volt-booster-will-support-725rwhp.html
Here is a good thread with more links regarding the front mounted fuel pressure regulator.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-injection/152014-can-i-run-universal-fuel-pressure-regulator-off-my-fuel-rails.html
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Check out Derty's article on the standalone fuel system he uses for his direct port nitrous kit.
http://www.derty.org/?body=Installs&content=directport
http://www.derty.org/?body=Installs&content=directport
#5
The Bull
You could also run dual in tank pumps. You could run a Holley black off your stock tank by putting in a bung for it. Both cases you would get a setup that would be a semi-standalone setup less the separate fuel tank. For NX, they don't really recommend a pump less then a Black for 200+. Spend a couple extra bucks and get the most pump you can find. It'll make life a little nicer when you go 300, 350, etc.
As for taking fuel off from the rails, you can do it. But I was never really comfortable with taking fuel away from the motor. When I did mine I believed it was much safer in the long run to do it that way. Let the motor do it's thing and then give it the spray.
As for taking fuel off from the rails, you can do it. But I was never really comfortable with taking fuel away from the motor. When I did mine I believed it was much safer in the long run to do it that way. Let the motor do it's thing and then give it the spray.
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i plan on doing almost the exact same set up in a month or so. i intend to go with a stand alone for my direct port and my maf kit (second stage). i was planning to use the mallory 250. brent it also doing the special nitrous port on my head after they come off. fwiw i gained 121 rwhp on my tea 5.3 stage 2 heads with a g5x2 on a NX 100 shot.
#9
The Bull
Here's the part number at Summit: HLY-12-815-1
Here's the link: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2D12%2D815%2D1
Just about everyone sells it. Don't get it confused with the Volumax version. That's a real hoss of a pump, but maybe a touch much.
Here's the link: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2D12%2D815%2D1
Just about everyone sells it. Don't get it confused with the Volumax version. That's a real hoss of a pump, but maybe a touch much.
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Originally Posted by DERTY
Here's the part number at Summit: HLY-12-815-1
Here's the link: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2D12%2D815%2D1
Just about everyone sells it. Don't get it confused with the Volumax version. That's a real hoss of a pump, but maybe a touch much.
Here's the link: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2D12%2D815%2D1
Just about everyone sells it. Don't get it confused with the Volumax version. That's a real hoss of a pump, but maybe a touch much.
Now I'm not sure if this will happen as well, but TEA mentioned they pick up 350rwhp with their Stg. 2.5 ls6 nitrous port on a NX 250 shot. That being said, should I shoot a little bigger than the Holley black pump?
I guess I'm looking for something that will be good for around 800rwhp
Last edited by verbs; 04-06-2004 at 04:54 PM.
#12
The Bull
If you only want to buy one pump and do not mind spending the extra money, do it now. It would be about 100 dollars more to goto a 300 GPH pump instead of a 140. There is a general rule of thumb to often times buy three times as much pump as you need. Sometimes that's mathematically and financially difficult. Usually works better for the bigger race cars logically.
If you were to get this pump I would say that you would leave your factory fuel system alone. I would just put a -8 AN bulkhead fitting into the tank. Mount this pump back on the frame rail by the rear axle. Run a -8 line up to a Holley regulator (it's 22 dollars from Summit). From the regulator run a -6 to the solenoid. You'll get all the benefits of a standalone fuel using the same fuel tank.
If that does not interest you, you can mount this pump with a separate fuel tank and have a dual fuel system. Similar concept but would allow you to have pump gas in the tank and race gas in the small fuel cell. Personally I do not mix fuel types nor octanes but that is entirely up to you.
The remaining alternative would be to completely upgrade your factory fuel system. But the problem is that the factory fuel system runs at a significantly higher fuel pressure. You would have to consider a few alternatives in this case. It's worth giving NX a call and see what they recommend in this particular case.
I like the reliability of the low pressure setup. It doesn't scare me as much to think about it as well as the stock type fuel system.
If you were to get this pump I would say that you would leave your factory fuel system alone. I would just put a -8 AN bulkhead fitting into the tank. Mount this pump back on the frame rail by the rear axle. Run a -8 line up to a Holley regulator (it's 22 dollars from Summit). From the regulator run a -6 to the solenoid. You'll get all the benefits of a standalone fuel using the same fuel tank.
If that does not interest you, you can mount this pump with a separate fuel tank and have a dual fuel system. Similar concept but would allow you to have pump gas in the tank and race gas in the small fuel cell. Personally I do not mix fuel types nor octanes but that is entirely up to you.
The remaining alternative would be to completely upgrade your factory fuel system. But the problem is that the factory fuel system runs at a significantly higher fuel pressure. You would have to consider a few alternatives in this case. It's worth giving NX a call and see what they recommend in this particular case.
I like the reliability of the low pressure setup. It doesn't scare me as much to think about it as well as the stock type fuel system.
Last edited by DERTY; 04-06-2004 at 07:25 PM.
#13
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Originally Posted by DERTY
If you only want to buy one pump and do not mind spending the extra money, do it now. It would be about 100 dollars more to goto a 300 GPH pump instead of a 140. There is a general rule of thumb to often times buy three times as much pump as you need. Sometimes that's mathematically and financially difficult. Usually works better for the bigger race cars logically.
If you were to get this pump I would say that you would leave your factory fuel system alone. I would just put a -8 AN bulkhead fitting into the tank. Mount this pump back on the frame rail by the rear axle. Run a -8 line up to a Holley regulator (it's 22 dollars from Summit). Fromt the regulator run a -6 to the solenoid. You'll get all the benefits of a standalone fuel using the same fuel tank.
If that does not interest you, you can mount this pump with a separate fuel tank and have a dual fuel system. Similar concept but would allow you to have pump gas in the tank and race gas in the small fuel cell. Personally I do not mix fuel types nor octanes but that is entirely up to you.
The remaining alternative would be to completely upgrade your factory fuel system. But the problem is that the factory fuel system runs at a significantly higher fuel pressure. You would have to consider a few alternatives in this case. It's worth giving NX a call and see what they recommend in this particular case.
I like the reliability of the low pressure setup. It doesn't scare me as much to think about it as well as the stock type fuel system.
If you were to get this pump I would say that you would leave your factory fuel system alone. I would just put a -8 AN bulkhead fitting into the tank. Mount this pump back on the frame rail by the rear axle. Run a -8 line up to a Holley regulator (it's 22 dollars from Summit). Fromt the regulator run a -6 to the solenoid. You'll get all the benefits of a standalone fuel using the same fuel tank.
If that does not interest you, you can mount this pump with a separate fuel tank and have a dual fuel system. Similar concept but would allow you to have pump gas in the tank and race gas in the small fuel cell. Personally I do not mix fuel types nor octanes but that is entirely up to you.
The remaining alternative would be to completely upgrade your factory fuel system. But the problem is that the factory fuel system runs at a significantly higher fuel pressure. You would have to consider a few alternatives in this case. It's worth giving NX a call and see what they recommend in this particular case.
I like the reliability of the low pressure setup. It doesn't scare me as much to think about it as well as the stock type fuel system.
#14
The Bull
Read the second paragraph. The pump does not supply fuel to the stock fuel rails. The in tank pump does this. That's it! This pump is solely dedicated to your nitrous system while using your stock fuel pump. In essence your car will have two pumps. Just that your fuel supply is off the stock tank as well. By putting in a AN bung on the stock tank you can draw a separate fuel supply off it. All the benefits of a stand alone fuel supply with only one supply. Taner runs his car this way and several others do as well.
#16
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I still like the idea of a stand alone system. I do plan to go direct port, but I am going to run my wet kit off a stand alone and my dry kit off my current fuel system. As of now I have a intank Walbro 340, hotwire kit and volt blaster. When I sprayed my two stage with my current fuel system it dropped from 62psi to 56psi. That was a 100 dry first stage and a 150 wet for the 2nd stage. I figure to not starve my 408ci I am adding a inline pump to the system. That gives me two good pumps for my dry shot and motor. My stand alone will use a separate fuel cell and another fuel pump to feed my wet kit. I have no plans on how much I want to spray, but I want overkill just in case I decide in the future to spray a 150 dry first stage and a 150 wet second stage. With the setup I just mentioned do you guys think I will be ok? I am also going to be running 42lb injectors.
#17
The Bull
Vince it sounds possible. I'm not a fan of putting a lot of fuel through the stock lines. Especially with putting two fuel pumps in series may work, but I can't say that it's exactly the best way to supply all the fuel you would need. It sure can be done, it just bugs me slightly.
I'd opt for a significantly larger pump, maybe an external Aeromotive or something. Then run a -8 to the motor, put it through a regulator and back to the tank. Just get away from the intank all together. I'm not sure what the limit is for something like a Walboro.
I know the forced induction guys are getting over 600 RW on them, so it may be possible to just keep that with your 408 and a 100 shot dry. Then just run a standalone for your DP. It's easy to upgrade. Start out with what you have then take a look at upgrading it if your fuel pressure goes crazy.
Overall, the best part about larger pumps is you cannot have enough pump. The better your fuel system, the less posts we'll be making about how I just fugg'd up my ride! Just a thought.
I'd opt for a significantly larger pump, maybe an external Aeromotive or something. Then run a -8 to the motor, put it through a regulator and back to the tank. Just get away from the intank all together. I'm not sure what the limit is for something like a Walboro.
I know the forced induction guys are getting over 600 RW on them, so it may be possible to just keep that with your 408 and a 100 shot dry. Then just run a standalone for your DP. It's easy to upgrade. Start out with what you have then take a look at upgrading it if your fuel pressure goes crazy.
Overall, the best part about larger pumps is you cannot have enough pump. The better your fuel system, the less posts we'll be making about how I just fugg'd up my ride! Just a thought.
#18
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Originally Posted by DERTY
Vince it sounds possible. I'm not a fan of putting a lot of fuel through the stock lines. Especially with putting two fuel pumps in series may work, but I can't say that it's exactly the best way to supply all the fuel you would need. It sure can be done, it just bugs me slightly.
I'd opt for a significantly larger pump, maybe an external Aeromotive or something. Then run a -8 to the motor, put it through a regulator and back to the tank. Just get away from the intank all together. I'm not sure what the limit is for something like a Walboro.
I know the forced induction guys are getting over 600 RW on them, so it may be possible to just keep that with your 408 and a 100 shot dry. Then just run a standalone for your DP. It's easy to upgrade. Start out with what you have then take a look at upgrading it if your fuel pressure goes crazy.
Overall, the best part about larger pumps is you cannot have enough pump. The better your fuel system, the less posts we'll be making about how I just fugg'd up my ride! Just a thought.
I'd opt for a significantly larger pump, maybe an external Aeromotive or something. Then run a -8 to the motor, put it through a regulator and back to the tank. Just get away from the intank all together. I'm not sure what the limit is for something like a Walboro.
I know the forced induction guys are getting over 600 RW on them, so it may be possible to just keep that with your 408 and a 100 shot dry. Then just run a standalone for your DP. It's easy to upgrade. Start out with what you have then take a look at upgrading it if your fuel pressure goes crazy.
Overall, the best part about larger pumps is you cannot have enough pump. The better your fuel system, the less posts we'll be making about how I just fugg'd up my ride! Just a thought.
#19
The Bull
Every street car needs two stages. If you get the right camshaft you'll never know you had an external pump!
Ever think of finding a large intank pump like the Bosch 420L setup? That'll go way beyond your motor and 100 dry. It's an intank setup, just bigger then a Walbro. That's almost 100 GPH at the higher stock fuel pressure. That's an aweful lot using an internal pump.
Ever think of finding a large intank pump like the Bosch 420L setup? That'll go way beyond your motor and 100 dry. It's an intank setup, just bigger then a Walbro. That's almost 100 GPH at the higher stock fuel pressure. That's an aweful lot using an internal pump.
#20
Shorty Director
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Originally Posted by DERTY
Every street car needs two stages. If you get the right camshaft you'll never know you had an external pump!
Ever think of finding a large intank pump like the Bosch 420L setup? That'll go way beyond your motor and 100 dry. It's an intank setup, just bigger then a Walbro. That's almost 100 GPH at the higher stock fuel pressure. That's an aweful lot using an internal pump.
Ever think of finding a large intank pump like the Bosch 420L setup? That'll go way beyond your motor and 100 dry. It's an intank setup, just bigger then a Walbro. That's almost 100 GPH at the higher stock fuel pressure. That's an aweful lot using an internal pump.