Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

My car sat for a almost 2 years and when I fired it up last weekend my idle is at 1100 rpms. It used to idle at ~750 before it sat.

I changed a few things while it sat....
Racetronix fuel pump & hotwire kit
Ebay Stepped headers & different exhaust
Switched from TR55s to TR6s
New Opti

But I don't think any of those would effect the idle

I checked the vacuum lines and everything looks good, both my headers are leaking at the head (new gaskets will go in this weekend) don't know if that will effect it either.

I had the motor out of the car, but didn't open the motor at all and it ran great before.

What do you guys think? I cleaned the air filter and MAF before they went back on the car, should I pull the TB off and clean that for starters?

T/A KID

iTrader: (12)

Fix the exhaust leak and start it up, most likely fixed

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

sticky IAC
Though 750 was too low an idle anyway.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

No, idle is fine for a M6 car


Thanks T/A Kid, new gaskets will go in this weekend, I hope that fixes it, but if not I'll pull the TB and clean everything up

warriorcustoms

iTrader: (10)

Run some Seafoam threw it too Settin is hard on things Clean the Tb that way you can be for sure that IAC & passages are Clean Definately get some new exh gaskets Stock ones work in a pinch

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

I'm not going to sea foam this motor. I'll pull stuff off and clean it, but no sea foam in this thing. My brother picked me up a set of Fel Pro gaskets that have always worked good for me in the past. The gaskets that came with the eBay headers are just plain worthless, should have went with my gut and put the Fel Pros on in the first place, but I got in a hurry so whatever.

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

First, leaking header gaskets won't make it idle fast. Leaking intake gaskets would.
Second, if your seeing 1100 RPM on your factory tach, it's not idling at 1100. Those factory are always fast. Your idling more like 850 or 900. If it has much of a cam in it, that's probably where it belongs.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

^^well before it sat my tach would indicate 900 rpms, but the data logger showed 700-800 rpms. I changed the header gaskets yesterday and it didn't change anything. I'm going to pull the TB off and clean it up and see if it helps, or I may just drive it and see if it goes back to normal.

I know the factory tach is off, but it idles too high right now, I can't hardly hear the bump of the cam

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

Have you looked at it with a scan tool? If the coolant sensor is reading too cold it will "fast idle", because the PCM doesn't know it warmed up. Could just be a dirty or loose connection at the engine coolant sensor.
Sure would not want to hear the cam "bump". LOL

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

IAC valves can get stuck when sitting for long periods. Seeing as that is what actually controls idle airflow.....................

warriorcustoms

iTrader: (10)

Thats why I told him to clean the **** outta the TB & Ed knows his **** IF you do everything & its still idling high its probably the rear of the intake leaking Get a good shop light & a mirror to look back there Seafoam will help clean that Carbon out Ive saved Seadoo & other PWC customers thousands of dollars When they let em set & dont properly store their ****!!! If you dont like that have a shop do an Injector Flush/Clean Itll do the same thing

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Really? Lets see, a motor with less than 5k miles on it probably doesn't get full of carbon. My intake isn't leaking, that was redone ~3k miles ago due to a failed headgasket. Fuel system is all new, IAC is probably sticking, but I'm not running sea foam into this motor. I already said that I will pull the TB off and clean it, but I don't understand your attitude

Helpful answers or

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

I haven't hooked up the scanner yet, but I will check out the coolant sensor but that would explain it running rich too (thinking out loud). They are cheap enough I'll grab one incase it needs to be replaced

Thanks

warriorcustoms

iTrader: (10)

AFTER 90 DAYS THAT FUEL STARTS TO GUM UP & TURN GREEN!!! So settin 2yrs your gonna have some sticktion or dried out seals Ect.... Settin is hard on stuff! An Oring could be dried out & suckin air. Could be the coolant sensor on the water pump, Those get broke all the time Ive made thousands upon thousands of dollars from people lettin Seadoos & Boats set Most of em just over winter or longer Just tryin to help Take an injector out & see if its GREEN on top

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Anyway...

I picked up a new coolant temp sensor today, gonna run the scanner and see what it says if I have time, but I may just change it and clean the TB Friday after the alignment is done.

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

Why not look at it with a scan tool first? If it shows very cold, with the scan tool in hand, key on/engine off, move the wires & connector to see if the indicated temp changes. I see as many loose connectors as the sensors themselves. You can buy the sensor with a pigtail you can splice in. I would buy it that way if I were going to buy a sensor. Just put it away if not needed now. NAPA used to sell the pigtails. Not sure they still do.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Autozone sells the pigtail too. The connection is tight, but I will check that out to rule it out. I just don't have alot of time to work on the car since its 30 miles away and I have to have it in the alignment shop Friday morning. I'm going out Thursday morning before work to bleed the brakes and load it on the trailer, but I'll try to check it out with the scanner before I replace the sensor.

Thanks Ed

T/A KID

iTrader: (12)

Something I thought that may be an issue is while the TB was off the car did you mess with the Throttle blade setup screw opening the TB more??
Once you Scan it you can also look at fuel trims possibly which may give you insight on a vac leak on a bank. Chances are if the IAC is showing 0 you either have the TB blade open too far or you have a vac leak.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Motor never got pulled apart. I did have it out while I changed the k member, the opti, and put on the new headers. But everything stayed on the motor.

I'll also check the voltage on the TPS. Like I said I just don't have a lot of time to get everything done by Friday morning.

I'm re-downloading the datamaster on my laptop and I need to find my cable, but I'll hook it up and see whats going on.

Thanks again guys

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Found the problem finally.... vacuum cap came off the TB I put a new one on and clamped it on and it runs awesome