Drag Racing Results - Possible to shave 4 tenths?

Went to the track for the first time in a couple years. This is the first time in the bird. 1/8 miles track not to sure about the track conditions, only ran 3 passes with the first one being the best, 8.4 @84 mph with a 1.9 60'. Other 2 passes I was spinning pretty bad. Had 1/2 tank of gas, and didn't bring a air pump so I didn't air the tires down at all (Nitto 555's). I have a little weight reduction done, but not much... back seats, a/c, fiberglass hood, jack/spare. This is all through a stock rear with 2.73's. Cam is a low 230's duration

I'm wanting to know if it would be possible to get high 7's even low 8's out of my setup if I aired the tires down and went out with 1/4 tank of gas, and ALOT more seat time? I'm pretty much running what a full bolt-on car runs.

get some gears.

Is it TUNED?? A tune and some real tires should drop a FULL SECOND and gain over 10mph..

It does have a tune, how good he tuned it is a different story. I see your in Champaign... don't know how familiar you are with Springfield, but that's where I got it street tuned. Should I get some m/t dr's or go with a slick?

dropping a full second off a 8th mile time without improving your sixty is going to requit ALOT more HP, your best bet is to try to get down to a 1.5 sixty for 1/8th mile runs. remember a full second shaved off in a 1/8 is not easy just think about what it takes to shave off a full second in a quarter. work on reducing your sixty foot,

IE proper suspension, trailing arms, drag bar, REMOVE FRONT SWAYBAR, maybe some skinnis up front, and yes if you get gears you will notice a huge difference in 1/8 mile times. at your lvl and being a auto you could get away with a good set of drag radials, nitto 555r are not good drag radials go with micky thompsons or the new hoosier one

dropping a full second off a 8th mile time without improving your sixty is going to requit ALOT more HP, your best bet is to try to get down to a 1.5 sixty for 1/8th mile runs. remember a full second shaved off in a 1/8 is not easy just think about what it takes to shave off a full second in a quarter. work on reducing your sixty foot,

IE proper suspension, trailing arms, drag bar, REMOVE FRONT SWAYBAR, maybe some skinnis up front, and yes if you get gears you will notice a huge difference in 1/8 mile times. at your lvl and being a auto you could get away with a good set of drag radials, nitto 555r are not good drag radials go with micky thompsons or the new hoosier one

Thanks for the info. I'm not looking to drop a full second off my time right off the bat. I would be happy with just a few tenths as of right now. I think I just need to practice launching better, and get some different dr's

what was the DA during the runs.

and you should be around 375whp or so given the mods, i'd assume with that stall and ET streets you'd go mid 7s if you can get it to 60' like it should.

So you live in Charleston.??? thats where i ran my times that you see in my sig... You need to get it track tuned at Coles County Dragway.. I know a guy that will do it for $200 bucks and he's fkn AWESOME!!! He lives right there in Charleston and tunes EVERYONE's cars in the area. If youre running at CCD, then your car should be MUCH FASTER.... with your mods, I'd expect 7.2x's @ 95mph on MT ET Street Radials.

what was the DA during the runs.

and you should be around 375whp or so given the mods, i'd assume with that stall and ET streets you'd go mid 7s if you can get it to 60' like it should.

DA was roughly 2500, It was the most decent weather we have had here since May.

So you live in Charleston.??? thats where i ran my times that you see in my sig... You need to get it track tuned at Coles County Dragway.. I know a guy that will do it for $200 bucks and he's fkn AWESOME!!! He lives right there in Charleston and tunes EVERYONE's cars in the area. If youre running at CCD, then your car should be MUCH FASTER.... with your mods, I'd expect 7.2x's @ 95mph on MT ET Street Radials.

Yea, that's where I ran at. Track prep was pretty decent in the tower lane. My first pass was in the tower lane, and pulled a 1.9 60. All the other passes were in the spectator lane, and I couldn't hook for shit. Had to let off multiple times, because I was spinning so bad. I was talking to a couple guys out there that night, and one of them was wanting to tune my car. I don't know about you, but I'm hesitant to let anyone touch my car let alone have someone I just met hook up a computer and start adjusting things.

I will pm you the name of the guy wanting to do it.

I went out this past Friday to see if I could improve my times since it was a cooler night, but the electrical at the track was fried. Will see what the weather is like this weekend.

If you can get a better launch and run in good air 7s are definitely doable.

Your car should be capable of a high 1.7 60ft pretty easily and that should put you right at the 7s alone. Some good air and another .2 could be possible.

Your MPH does seem a touch low for a cammed car so there might be more in it with a tune and double checking basic maintenance stuff.

MPH seems a little low. I had a cam only car @ 3460 that did around 90-91 in the eighth but it had 3.73 gears. No ls6 intake though. Might want to re-look at the tune.

84 mph trap is what a good running stock car will run, thats why i asked the DA on the pass.

i'd start looking at why its down on power.

I will try some different dr's first to see if it gets any better. After that the only other thing to look at is the tune. I've never had it on a dyno before, but it does feel like it pulls a lot hard than it did stock

Mph seem low I just raced last Friday at the local 1/8th mile I have stall trailing arms nt555r and back seats out and my best is a 7.91 @ 87 stock heads stock can stock intake
I can understand ur spinning more than me with the cam but ur mph should be at least mine if not more

dropping a full second off a 8th mile time without improving your sixty is going to requit ALOT more HP, your best bet is to try to get down to a 1.5 sixty for 1/8th mile runs. remember a full second shaved off in a 1/8 is not easy just think about what it takes to shave off a full second in a quarter. work on reducing your sixty foot,

IE proper suspension, trailing arms, drag bar, REMOVE FRONT SWAYBAR, maybe some skinnis up front, and yes if you get gears you will notice a huge difference in 1/8 mile times. at your lvl and being a auto you could get away with a good set of drag radials, nitto 555r are not good drag radials go with micky thompsons or the new hoosier one

+ 1 on the drag radials ...

on my z06 I run 17" Hoosier drag radials at 17-18 psi hot , inflate the fronts to like 40 psi hot

Tires shave almost a second off 1/4 mile

Went out tonight and ran a 8.3 @ 86 with a 1.94 60', DA was at 1427'. 23 lbs of air in the rear, and 40 lbs up front. Best 60' couple weeks ago was 1.99. Can't get my 60 any lower than what it is. I've tried everything.. dust them off, spin them a little bit more, and white smoking them.. nothing works. Also tried different rpm's at launching. Seems happy at 2000 rpm, anything above or below that, and it slows down. This is still the same set up as before, with the 555's. Gonna try some m/t's here in the next couple weeks, and see if that helps at all. I've got a 4.10 rear waiting to go in, but have money tied up in other things at the moment.

If I get my 60' down to say a 1.6, will my mph speed up? I'm still spinning pretty bad off the line. Probably spinning half way down the 60' I would say.

As said by others..Get some drag radials! You should be able to pull 1.7 60's, but to get into the 1.6's I think you are going to need a looser stall also.

2.73s are killing your cam

2.73s are killing your cam

I have 2.73s also. Haven't taken it to the track yet but it falls on it's face when it goes into 2nd gear.

Just bought some m/t et streets. Going to put them on this Friday, and see what happens. Next step is to put the 4.10 rear in it.

you should be makin 60-100rwhp more than me......i went 8.37@85.26mph on the EXACT same track with a 1422' DA..... have Doug tune your damn car dude... im gonna have him tune mine and walk around you with an otherwise stock car, other than the SLP lid....

You may or may not... who knows. I don't see the point in throwing down the money on a tune when I have a different gear I'm putting in, and plan on doing heads over the winter. Sorry for not wanting to waste $200-300 on a tune, and just have to do it again next year.

And maybe... just maybe I should work on my traction issues before I worry about the tune. If I'm not getting any traction right now with a "bad tune" as you say, then I would hate to see how bad I blow the tires off with a different tune.

its only $35 dollars for a retune...so i wouldnt say youre wasting any money... what rpm is your car shifting at???

its only $35 dollars for a retune...so i wouldnt say youre wasting any money... what rpm is your car shifting at???

He told me 150 just to load his software on it, and then 50 to tune it since it already has a tune. Basically kept bouncing back and forth from 150 to 200.

Shifting at 6200..... limiter at 6500

i'd be much more concerned with the lack of power than the poor traction.

traction is easy to come by with these cars, esp with mild setups (such as yours). mt m/t et street DR bolt on car went 7.6s @ 88 with a 3650lb raceweight and DA of 2200'.

i had completely stock susp except LCAs, SFCs, and removed front sway bar. car would 1.60-1.65 60' at the track like clockwork, prepped or not. it wasn't difficult at all to make it do that.

exactly!!!!! ........brad, he will WFO tune it at track for 200...street/driveability tune for another 100....and 35 for a retune...... youre not spinnin anymore than i was.... hell being an auto, you got .01 better 60' than me on a fun night.... have him tune it, get the power right.... you have suspension mods.... tires and track prep will decide your traction..if you want real traction, get some real tires and go on race day... your car has it in it. im not hatin on your car by any means. i just wanna see it FLY!! i should be NOWHERE near your times. yet im just as quick as you...just have lauter tune that thing and let the beast come out! good luck bud... hope you get the ole girl down the track quickly soon...oooohhhh, and for the record, MY car would love to be shifted at 6200 and its STOCK... shift that thing at 6600+....probably more like 6800. what are your cam specs???

exactly!!!!! ........brad, he will WFO tune it at track for 200...street/driveability tune for another 100....and 35 for a retune...... youre not spinnin anymore than i was.... hell being an auto, you got .01 better 60' than me on a fun night.... have him tune it, get the power right.... you have suspension mods.... tires and track prep will decide your traction..if you want real traction, get some real tires and go on race day... your car has it in it. im not hatin on your car by any means. i just wanna see it FLY!! i should be NOWHERE near your times. yet im just as quick as you...just have lauter tune that thing and let the beast come out! good luck bud... hope you get the ole girl down the track quickly soon...oooohhhh, and for the record, MY car would love to be shifted at 6200 and its STOCK... shift that thing at 6600+....probably more like 6800. what are your cam specs???

I know man, I appreciate all the advice so far :cheers:. I have some m/t's I will try out tonight, and go from there. I will talk to Doug tonight if he is out there, and get something set up within the next couple weeks/month.

Hopefully I can get her straightened out soon.

Cam specs,

234/236
601/603
112+4

Stock 806 heads

The drag radials should help you exceed your expectations. When I was running a set up similar to yours, I picked up a full second in the 1/8 by going to drag radials. More gear with the 555s is only going to be more of a problem getting the car off the line. Once you get the car to hook with the new tires then you can take advantage of your camshaft with more gear. Good luck.

2.73s are killing your cam

+1 on that!

and get yourself some hoosier Drag radials so you can actually hook! Nittos do not compare to them lol
and theyre 6-7lbs lighter/ tire compared to the mickey T street radials

i cut a 1.46 60' in june with my hoosier DR's in my C5 with 4000-4200 stall converter and 3.42 gears.

Getting the m/t's mounted today, headed to the track tonight to take advantage of the cooler weather. I will post what happens tonight.

So what happened? Any idea why it's WAY down on power? FWIW, my stock cam car goes 7.30's to the 8th at 92ish. Something's wrong. Have you done basic stuff like fuel filter?

As said by others..Get some drag radials! You should be able to pull 1.7 60's, but to get into the 1.6's I think you are going to need a looser stall also.

This guy gets it!!



2.73s are killing your cam

A higher stall converter is guaranteed to get it down the track better than a gear swap!! Put the motor at or slightly after peak TQ and look out :)



Just bought some m/t et streets. Going to put them on this Friday, and see what happens. Next step is to put the 4.10 rear in it.

Change the stall first! Gonna give you my example.

Same 11-1 347 ci motor in my truck for all below examples. Had ported heads with Trex cam (243/250):


3,600 rpm verter + 3.73's + 26" drag radial = Dead hooking a best of 1.89 60'

4,500 rpm verter + 3.73's + 30" drag radial = Dead hooking a best of 1.67 60'

So the converter change gained me .22 all while I went to a much taller tire. The tall tire acted like I went from a 3.73 to a 3.23 (if I kept the same 26" tire)


Same combo above, except I took about 100lbs out of the truck and went from a 3.73 to a 4.56 with the same 30" drag radial. Truck went from a 1.67 60' to a 1.60 60'.. .07 reduction in the 60'. Now, how much of that was the gear and how much of it was the weight?


This last weekend I was playing with a completely new combo. But, my best pass fri night I cut a 1.608 60'.. I then took my tailgate off which weighs 125lbs (I added a bunch of weight to it). With no other changes, didn't relevel the truck, I cut a 1.576 60'. so he 125lb drop gave me a .032 reduction in my 60'


This is not perfect math, but let's recap:
Larger stall + Taller tire = .22 reduction in 60'
Steeper gear and 100 less pounds = .07 reduction in 60'
Last weekends testing showed 125lbs less in the truck sped up my 60' by .032

I would care to guess that the 100lbs that came off when I went to a 4.56 helped the 60' by .025. That means going from a 3.73 to a 4.56 only helped my 60' by .045..



You have the tires now. I would try them. If you want more, replace the stall first. If not happy, then change the gear.

Best 60' I could get out of it was a 1.89 dead hooking.... worst run was a 1.91. I had a couple people tell me that were watching me, that it sounded like I was bogging coming out of the hole? It seems like I don't start getting into the power until I'm almost halfway down the track.

I agree, I think my stall is holding my 60' back quite a bit, but it still doesn't explain why it's so slow. Time or speed didn't change one bit... still at 8.4 @85. Talked to a tuner out there the other night, and I'm going to have him retune it within the next month or so.

I've been on the phone a lot with PTC about building me a custom converter somewhere in the 4000+ range. I'm going to change the stall first here within the next week or two, then have it retuned the middle or end of next month.

That's where I'm at so far with the car. I will keep it updated, and hopefully be haulin ass down the track by the end of the year.

I think you are also working the tune and converter backwards. The converter company will get you a converter more suited to your combo if they know where you make peak tq. Get it tuned, then buy your converter.

I think you are also working the tune and converter backwards. The converter company will get you a converter more suited to your combo if they know where you make peak tq. Get it tuned, then buy your converter.


But I won't know my peak torque unless I put it on a dyno, correct?

Also, if my o2 sensors are on there way out, would that slow me down at all? It just threw a code for both o2 sensors.

This guy gets it!

Thanks!

I went back and looked through some of my old runs stock internal and thought I would post some 60's up to try and give you an example of what a converter change can do similar to what LIL SS posted.

1.93 60 (stock stall, 3.23 gear, 275 Nitto DR, & stock weight 3500+lbs)
8.16@89.1mph
1.72-1.77 60's (only change was TCI 3500 stall)
7.94@86.7mph
1.68 60's (changed to 315 Nitto DR's)
7.80@88.5mph
1.61 60's (changed to TCI 3800 stall & ET Streets)
7.55@90.2mph
1.49-1.52 60's (changed to 3.73 gear and weight reduction to 3450lbs race weight)
7.3@92.9mph

Thanks!

I went back and looked through some of my old runs stock internal and thought I would post some 60's up to try and give you an example of what a converter change can do similar to what LIL SS posted.

1.9 60's (stock stall, 3.23 gear, 275 Nitto DR, & stock weight 3500+lbs)
1.72-1.77 60's (only change was TCI 3500 stall)
1.68 60's (changed to 315 Nitto DR's)
1.61 60's (changed to TCI 3800 stall & ET Streets)
1.49-1.52 (changed to 3.73 gear and weight reduction to 3400lbs race weight)

Can you include the 1/8 Mile Time and MPH to this list?

Joe

Wow that took some searching, but hopefully this is what you were looking for. Edited post above. Also remember weather conditions had an effect on those times.

Wow that took some searching, but hopefully this is what you were looking for. Edited post above. Also remember weather conditions had an effect on those times.

Thanks!

Got the car retuned last weekend feels a lot stronger. Ran a 8.05 @ 87.7 with a 1.82 60'. Gained almost .5 seconds and 4 mph off my previous time. DA was roughly 850-900' tonight. Little bit more room for improvement before the end of the year. Hopefully a 4000 stall, and 4.10's will make her scream.