Generation IV Internal Engine - main bolts/arp main studs

I've had conficting statements from 2 differnet machine shops so I'd like to get this sraight

I have forged Gen IV 6.0 that Im assembling

will be running twin turbos 700-800rwhp threw a stalled 4l80e

I currently have stock main bolts/studs and an align hone was done with them

One shop is telling me that I can reuse the stock main bolts/studs and would need an align hone done again if I changed to ARP

The other shop is telling me the stock main bolts/studs are TTY and cannot be reused but I would NOT need an align hone done if I install ARP


Thanks

If your going from stock main bolts to ARP main studs then you need an align hone because the ARP main studs have a stronger clamping force and changes clearences..

If your going from stock main bolts to ARP main studs then you need an align hone because the ARP main studs have a stronger clamping force and changes clearences..

That is what i thought, I find it strange that a very known shop is saying otherwise. I'm sure they would check it anyway but they know I am assembling the motor.

I have found the same thing...one shop says this one says that but definitely get align honed if switch to studs...but the stock ones are reusable, I wouldnt consider using them though if I was using a couple of hair dryers lol!

yes i got several quotes on an align hone after getting ARP main studs, one guy on this forum said "technically you might not need an align hone after installing arp main studs"

and yes he got bashed to death by the "PRO's" on here lol

Hey opinions are like assholes everybody has got one lol...

+2
When I got my ARP MAINstuds AES said align honing was a must.

Using Main studs needs to be align honed

Using Main studs needs to be align honed

Anything special you have to do when honing an aluminum block with steel main caps? My machine shop is leery to hone them, because the block is aluminum and is softer than the steel main caps. I have a thread in the GEN III internal section. Input wold be appreciated.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/1567866-machine-shop-not-comfortable-line-honing-mains.html

Kenny

I aling hone mine with the main caps down so the weight of the mandrel is on the steal caps

I aling hone mine with the main caps down so the weight of the mandrel is on the steal caps

So the engine its self is in the up position with the mains tward the floor?

correct

I have never saw a line hone in action but when it does it hones out the mains so am I to assume that the hone just rides in the bore and is not not fixed in the same position just kinda "floats" in the mains to get them round? and that normally the block is upside down when you hone them?

Find a shop that is comfortable.

Some guys are just not capable. There are machinest and machine operators.

Tim

If the holes are round with the new fastener installed align honing is not needed in my opinion also. It seems about 50-50 when putting them in.

Kurt

put the studs in and mic the bores to see if they are round. That will answer the question

I just did an iron 6.0, bought the summit racing block (recon'ed 2004+ block) came with stock main bolts, swapped over to ARP and the machine shop mic'ed everything and it was good. Same machine shop did my 3.905 LS1 aluminum block and it definately needed to be honed.

The other shop is telling me the stock main bolts/studs are TTY and cannot be reused

The factory mains are tightened using the torque plus angle method, but they are not torque to yield and therefore can be reused.

You may or may not need to line hone after ARP studs. Torque them on and measure the bores for out of round. Sometimes they need to be honed and sometimes they don't.

The shop I'm working with likes to line hone all LSx blocks because they've observed many are not straight from the factory. But since yours has already been line honed, I would put whatever fastener in there, torque it down, and check for roundness to see if it needs it again.