Cadillac CTS-V - That just happened........

I started at 11am yesterday and worked til about 8:30pm. I stopped for lunch and then had to go to a buddy's to get the fuel disconnect tool and a power steering pulley removal tool, and stopped for dinner. I took my time and took a crazy amount of pics and wrote bolt sizes down so I can do a writeup later.

Got bumper, radiator, fans, tb, intake, water pump, power steering bracket (left the rest intact....pretty easy after pulley was removed) and got headers, plugs, valve covers, and heads off.

Now I need to remove lifters, balancer, timing chain cover, cam, and oil pump. Hopefully I'll get that done before the weekend.

Hate seeing the ol' V like this.....but it's pretty cool knowing that I'm knee deep in awesome right now lol.

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q16/n2havnfun2/Heads%20Cam%20Intake%20TB/Enginedowntotimingchaincover.jpg

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q16/n2havnfun2/Heads%20Cam%20Intake%20TB/Enginedowntotimingchaincoverandnobumper.jpg

I smell a cam swap coming.

What all are you doin?

I'd assume you're installing the "coming soon" list you have in your sig. If so, very nice! Car is gonna be a beast!!

Replace those knock sensors while your in there

I smell a cam swap coming.

What all are you doin?

AFR 215 "mamofied" heads, 227/231 Cam 114 LSA, Fast 102 "mamofied" Intake, and Nick Williams 102 TB, Yella Terra rockers (gen 3), Melling Oil Pump, LS2 timing chain, 42lb injectors (I think, I'd have to look again), ARP studs, etc.

I'd assume you're installing the "coming soon" list you have in your sig. If so, very nice! Car is gonna be a beast!!

^this^

Thanks man and I hope so!!

Replace those knock sensors while your in there

Do those really go bad that often?

for how cheap they are, i'd just do it since everything is apart.

Just kinda like the pilot bearing with clutch installs. Could never go bad. Could go bad next week. I thought i'd mention it just in case you forgot about those little guys

I'm jealous!!

Can't wait to see it all together!

for how cheap they are, i'd just do it since everything is apart.

Just kinda like the pilot bearing with clutch installs. Could never go bad. Could go bad next week. I thought i'd mention it just in case you forgot about those little guys

I'm just trying to save money I guess. I'll snatch some...thanks for the heads up.

I'm jealous!!

Can't wait to see it all together!

Me too!!! :):):):):):)

Nice build!! What kind of numbers you looking to get out of that setup?

Goood times!! Can't wait to see what numbers you get!

I'm finally getting mine to the dyno tomorrow to find out what my cam and heads accomplished.

Nice build!! What kind of numbers you looking to get out of that setup?

I would assume I can get a 100hp out of this setup

Goood times!! Can't wait to see what numbers you get!

I'm finally getting mine to the dyno tomorrow to find out what my cam and heads accomplished.

Ya me too. Let us know what you pull out of your setup!

Nice bro glad its finally happening! Can't wait to see numbers!

why did u pull the powersteering pulley? ive never had to when un bolting the bracket.. rachet wrench and use the holes in the pulley..

regaurdless good luck on the build.

why did u pull the powersteering pulley? ive never had to when un bolting the bracket.. rachet wrench and use the holes in the pulley..

regaurdless good luck on the build.

Thanks man.

How the hell did you get the bracket bolts around the pulley? The pulley is in the way. Unless you are talking about the bolts behind the three holes in the pulley itself? My way was pretty easy, and I didn't have to drain the power steering fluid and risk getting the alternator soaked.

1) Has anyone heard that the LS2 chain is too big for the LS6? The local speed shop guy thinks it's too thick for the cover and he's done many LSx cars.

2) Also, does the oil pan need to be removed in order to get the oil pump out?

I know the V oil pan is specific to our cars, but when I read the writeup on ls1howto and they said they drop the pan an inch (granted it's an FBody). Wouldn't you need a new oil pan gasket then?

1) Has anyone heard that the LS2 chain is too big for the LS6? The local speed shop guy thinks it's too thick for the cover and he's done many LSx cars.

2) Also, does the oil pan need to be removed in order to get the oil pump out?

I know the V oil pan is specific to our cars, but when I read the writeup on ls1howto and they said they drop the pan an inch (granted it's an FBody). Wouldn't you need a new oil pan gasket then?

1) LS2 chain will fit without problems. I had a thicker C5R chain in my 2001 SS LS1 and didn't have any fitment problems. Plus, everybody here and their cousins with an LS1 run LS2 chain without issue.

2) Oil pan needs to be loosened/lowered to access pick up tube bolt. Oil pan gasket is reusable, its some type of metal/rubber gasket if I recall correctly.

Good luck and about damn time you got this going!

1) LS2 chain will fit without problems. I had a thicker C5R chain in my 2001 SS LS1 and didn't have any fitment problems. Plus, everybody here and their cousins with an LS1 run LS2 chain without issue.

2) Oil pan needs to be loosened/lowered to access pick up tube bolt. Oil pan gasket is reusable, its some type of metal/rubber gasket if I recall correctly.

Good luck and about damn time you got this going!

Thanks boss. I'm dreading dropping the pan.

I just did a chain on mine without dropping the pan. A pain and probably just as much work but doable.

I used a couple different wrenches to get the bolt loose. Caught it with a magnet pen.

Going back together I used thread to hold the bolt in the pickup tube and kind of wiggle the pump in place. I could just barely get my finger down around the pump/pickup to put a little pressure on the bolt with my finger nail and start turning with a wrench. Once it's started it isn't hard just really time consuming because you can't get much of a turn with the pan in the way. I've seen it done with a magnetic flathead and long thin needle nose to start it also. Very very little room - but puling the pan on the V looks like a nightmare.

Thanks man.

How the hell did you get the bracket bolts around the pulley? The pulley is in the way. Unless you are talking about the bolts behind the three holes in the pulley itself? My way was pretty easy, and I didn't have to drain the power steering fluid and risk getting the alternator soaked.

nah man..dont drain a thing. i just loosen the bolts till they are out and the pulley holds them in the bracket so they dont come out of the bracket.. just flop the whole powersteering unit to the side and done. either way you got it done

nah man..dont drain a thing. i just loosen the bolts till they are out and the pulley holds them in the bracket so they dont come out of the bracket.. just flop the whole powersteering unit to the side and done. either way you got it done

I think I know what you mean....I think. lol

I hope to be in this same spot, this time next month.... can you say STREETSWEEEPER. that is the setup I chose. I am so pumped. keep us posted and good luck!!

hmmm lolly, we may have to make a trip sooner than later. Im curious to see your numbers i may have to get on some heads to stay in the game. Can you say Ai 226 or 232? And you got a message.

I hope to be in this same spot, this time next month.... can you say STREETSWEEEPER. that is the setup I chose. I am so pumped. keep us posted and good luck!!

Here's hoping! I like that......street sweeper lol

hmmm lolly, we may have to make a trip sooner than later. Im curious to see your numbers i may have to get on some heads to stay in the game. Can you say Ai 226 or 232? And you got a message.

Heck ya.....I told you that we have a spare room for you guys at our house if need be.

PM replied.

So what kind of balancer pulley am I going to need? Is there a special one ? Are there 3 holes to grab onto? Or what?

I know our harmonic balancers aren't keyed to the crank, so I'm guessing I should mark where I take it off, correct??

But what are the torque specs/ procedure?

Also, Mamo wants me to use some Johnson lifters (says they are better than LS7) and hardened push rods (I have to figure out length first)

What do you guys think about lifters? LS7 good enough? Or spend the coin on Johnson lifters that are supposed to be better?

You need a 3 jaw puller. A 3 ton should be plenty most of the time. 5 ton won't fit without some modification.

Putting it back on you use the old bolt to pull it all the way on. Then new bolt torque to 35 ft lbs and then 140 degrees.

I'll be running ls7. I figure my stockers survived fine on this cam/spring setup.

Wow I wish my car had a block in it...

upgrade on the lifters. might as well. I went with the Morel link bar 184-5206's, that way no more plastic trays

upgrade on the lifters. might as well. I went with the Morel link bar 184-5206's, that way no more plastic trays

Excuse me naivety, but are the plastic trays known for breaking or something? I've never heard of upgrading the trays.

Ok NW 102 TB calls for a 4.25" coupler, and my Volant air intake tube is right about 3.75"......

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q16/n2havnfun2/VolantIntakeSize.jpg

So will I have to get a 4.5" to 4"?? Will that be too big? Or what should I do here?
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index.php?cPath=2&osCsid=a550e950893407e1c860213a0382a60d

Excuse me naivety, but are the plastic trays known for breaking or something? I've never heard of upgrading the trays.

not really. I have not heard of any breakages, but with the link bar's you don't need them. overkill, that's all. I did hear you should at least purchase new trays when installing lifter though.

I went overkill on everything:
Streetsweeper 236/240 631/612 111
T&D Lightweight 1.7 shaft mount adjustable roller rockers
PAC 1521 springs & R516 Ti retainers, locks & seals
Morel Link bar lifters 184-5206 limited travel
Katech C5R timing chain
Katech blueprinted oil pump
Katech oil cooler adapter
Ron Davis Radiator w/oil cooler
all ARP hardware
ATI 10% balancer

supporting mods already on the car, so except for getting my ETP215 heads, I will be completing my install in September, when it cools down. really hope to have the heads by then, so to do this once.

not really. I have not heard of any breakages, but with the link bar's you don't need them. overkill, that's all. I did hear you should at least purchase new trays when installing lifter though.

I went overkill on everything:
Streetsweeper 236/240 631/612 111
T&D Lightweight 1.7 shaft mount adjustable roller rockers
PAC 1521 springs & R516 Ti retainers, locks & seals
Morel Link bar lifters 184-5206 limited travel
Katech C5R timing chain
Katech blueprinted oil pump
Katech oil cooler adapter
Ron Davis Radiator w/oil cooler
all ARP hardware
ATI 10% balancer

supporting mods already on the car, so except for getting my ETP215 heads, I will be completing my install in September, when it cools down. really hope to have the heads by then, so to do this once.

Jesus thats a big cam for this car... lol

Taken from ls1howto.com.....
Once the engine is locked down from spinning, use your large breaker bar, a 3" extension and a 24mm socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt that goes directly into the crank through the center of the large pulley. You may need a 2-3 foot extension of pipe to slip over your wrench to break this bolt free. Once it's broken free, you should be able to unscrew it by hand. Once the bolt is out, either thread it back in 4 full turns, or if you purchased a 1" longer metric crank bolt, install it all the way at this time.

I bought this bolt.....does it matter that it's not threaded all the way down?
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q16/n2havnfun2/Heads%20Cam%20Intake%20TB/FastenalBolt.jpg

Excuse me naivety, but are the plastic trays known for breaking or something? I've never heard of upgrading the trays.

A few very isolated cases of trays cracking usually when the lifter turns. I don't think you can go wrong with LS7 but for a little bit of safety get some some with link bars. I have some cheapy lunati ones with bars. A little bit more than stock ls7s.

Just pulled balancer, oil pump, dropped pan a little to get oil pump out, cam's out, timing chain.......time for re-installation!!!

I bought LS7 lifters and a Melling oil pump.

Wish I would've seen your post first ichpen! Oh well.....here's hoping stock trays are good to go.

Got timing chain, cam, oil pump, cover, balancer all back in and torqued. Some of the pan bolts were kinda difficult to get to, but not as bad as I was making it out to be. Praying for no leaks!

Now time to clean the head surface on the block and get ready for some head :devil:

F you over there, there's a party over heeeeeerrrreeee

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q16/n2havnfun2/Heads%20Cam%20Intake%20TB/Headson.jpg

Ha I stopped at pretty much the same point today. Weekend was a bust. PTV was too close for comfort so I had to hunt down supplies and flycut. Time consuming....

Ha I stopped at pretty much the same point today. Weekend was a bust. PTV was too close for comfort so I had to hunt down supplies and flycut. Time consuming....

Flycutting.......booooooo. Post pics boss! :)

F you over there, there's a party over heeeeeerrrreeee

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q16/n2havnfun2/Heads%20Cam%20Intake%20TB/Headson.jpg

Pretty

I'm a little jealous of the AFRs. They are pretty. I just couldn't spend that kind of money on the small bore setup. I'll hit 100k miles this year. I know the motor won't last forever so the stage 2.5 TSP heads will hold me over until I build a new motor.

Pretty

Tanks mang!

I'm a little jealous of the AFRs. They are pretty. I just couldn't spend that kind of money on the small bore setup. I'll hit 100k miles this year. I know the motor won't last forever so the stage 2.5 TSP heads will hold me over until I build a new motor.

Ya, maybe I'll stroke the LS6 in the future......but right now I blew my wad on this setup. I only have about 20k on the motor so I'll be good for a nice long while....hopefully :drive:

So my old LS6 fuel rail has a fuel regulator on the fuel rail itself.....the LS2 fuel rail on the right does not. Am I going to have to add one? How does the stock LS2 one get regulated?

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q16/n2havnfun2/LS6vsLS2fuelrail.jpg

that is not a fuel regulator. the fuel regulator is in the tank. you don't need whatever it is.

I run nasty fuel rails and they do not have that. you will be just fine installing those LS2 rails.

Yea you don't need it... My Maggie rails don't have that dampener or whatever it is... I have LS6

OK sounds good guys, thanks. Just want to be 1000% on everything.

Pushrods finally came in last night......they look awesome....too bad nobody will ever see them
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q16/n2havnfun2/Heads-Cam-Intake-TB%20install/MantonPushrods.jpg

So what do I do with the Coolant Crossover tube now? Rebend to fit around the Fast 102 or cap those coolant passages off? Where does the rubber hose connect to if it's reused?

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q16/n2havnfun2/Heads-Cam-Intake-TB%20install/CoolantCrossovertubeandintakehose.jpg

Since I don't have photoshop at work....here's the part I'm talking about:
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q16/n2havnfun2/Heads-Cam-Intake-TB%20install/CoolantCrossoverTube.jpg

Also, does the hose from the valley cover connect to the port on the side of the Fast Intake?
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q16/n2havnfun2/Heads-Cam-Intake-TB%20install/ValleytrayHose.jpg

Sorry for the dumb questions!

Anyways....since the UPS man didn't come until about 6pm, I decided to throw the pushrods in right then. Got the Yella Terras in, torqued, turned the motor manually and made sure they didn't hit the valve covers, (I had to freeze the new valve cover gaskets to make them fit) got valve covers on, and threw the water pump on, and connected all the stuff to the intake including fuel rail and injectors. I haven't buttoned down the Fast 102 yet, because I want to make sure everything is hooked up right. Finally getting somewhere............

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q16/n2havnfun2/Heads-Cam-Intake-TB%20install/Enginebaywithintakeandvalvecovers.jpg

The valley cover vent tube connects to the side of the intake manifold, if you mix this up and connect the valve cover breather to the side of the manifold your motor will drink oil. The valve cover vent connects to the tb. Nothing worse than seeing clouds of blue smoke after you just rebuilt the top end.

I got a Elite Engineering Catch Can, so I'll be putting that in between the two. Sorry for the dumb question.

I'll also be drilling the intake tube (or maybe the silicone adapter) for the valve cover breather tube.

On the coolant crossover tube, mine is setup so the coolant tubes are plugged on the TB and there is a single hose coming from the top outlet on the radiator directly to the crossover tube.

I'd run the catch can inline with the valve cover breather rather than the valley vent. Valve cover breather is where you will really pull oil. If you do this you can also just put a small filter on the exit of the catch can, no need to route it back into the intake if using a catch can.

Edit: the valley vent doesn't draw much oil if any, the hose on mine was petrified and broke as i pulled it off.

HELP!

Does this look right?? The long hose will go into the air intake tube that I haven't drilled yet.

Valley Cover to Intake.

Valve cover to top of Oil Catch.

Oil Catch lower to air intake tube (not drilled yet)

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q16/n2havnfun2/evapsystem.jpg

I tried to copy this...
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2004-2007-cadillac-cts-v-performance/242737-ls6-ls2-throttle-body-harness-conversion-2.html

I still say there is no need to drill the intake and vent the catch can into it.

Better??

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q16/n2havnfun2/evapsystem2.jpg

HELP!

Does this look right?? The long hose will go into the air intake tube that I haven't drilled yet.

Valley Cover to Intake.

Valve cover to top of Oil Catch.

Oil Catch lower to air intake tube (not drilled yet)

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q16/n2havnfun2/evapsystem.jpg

I tried to copy this...
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2004-2007-cadillac-cts-v-performance/242737-ls6-ls2-throttle-body-harness-conversion-2.html

This is correct, I just don't understand why you want to route the valve cover vent back to the air intake tube as stated earlier. It may be possible we are missunderstanding eachother here. The valve cover vent if connected to the catch can does not need to loop back into the system. The only reason you would do so is if you need to pass emisions and even then a catch can should suffice. With the catch can you just run the valve cover vent in, and stick a small breather filter on the out port. If you do this you shouldn't have any oil leaking out, and you don't have to drill the intake tube.

Also this is an awesome build, curious to see what sort of numbers you get out of it.

This is correct, I just don't understand why you want to route the valve cover vent back to the air intake tube as stated earlier. It may be possible we are missunderstanding eachother here. The valve cover vent if connected to the catch can does not need to loop back into the system. The only reason you would do so is if you need to pass emisions and even then a catch can should suffice. With the catch can you just run the valve cover vent in, and stick a small breather filter on the out port. If you do this you shouldn't have any oil leaking out, and you don't have to drill the intake tube.

Also this is an awesome build, curious to see what sort of numbers you get out of it.

I got it all setup. Thanks for the heads up....I just did it like the Vettes and other platforms with LS6's is all.

Check it out!

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q16/n2havnfun2/enginebayfinished.jpg

Waiting for tuner to come tomorrow night. I'm psyched!!!

My guy at my local speed shop told me to switch the oil can connections opposite of each other. Like top oil catch can inlet to intake, and lower catch can inlet to valley cover.

Do you guys agree? Or leave it the way I have it now?

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q16/n2havnfun2/evapsystem2.jpg

u want the valley cover to go in the bottom port of the can.. the top back to the intake. oil to the bottom air to the top

How's she running after all is said and done?

How's she running after all is said and done?

My tuner has had some issues tuning the idle with the 102mm (seems to be a common prob) and it smells a little rich to me. It is running strong though. Does adding a cam make you smell fuel more, or is that all tune related?

Also, I put a 160 degree t-stat in last night, and changed the oil. I checked my balancer bolt and it was a little loose!!! Not enough to cause any vibes or issues, but I had tightened the new OEM bolt to spec, and then to 140 degrees and everything by the book. That lil' bitch was loose, so I cranked on it again.


Make sure you check that shit after a balancer change!!