Cadillac CTS-V - That Just Happened Too (Maggie Version)....

I am starting a thread just like Lolly's. This will be a placeholder, Q&A, etc. for my Maggie and Pacesetter header install. Here are some questions I have as I have not started the install yet.

- The kit I got from 1BADCTS doesn't come with a programmer or maggie tune, but one of the first steps in the install process is programming the car. Is there a workaround for this, or does anyone have a programmer with the maggie tune, that they want to sell?

- Will the stock fuel pump be sufficient or is the magnavolt really required. Should I put in a beefier fuel pump? Would that be suffiecient for fuel needs?

- 1BADCTS said that the rear belt on the SC needs to be replaced. Does anyone know what and where to get this belt?

- I need a crank pinning kit, any good places, or can it be done by hand without the guide?

Thanks Guys

The ATI pin kit is not required, but highly recommended:

http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATI918993&Category_Code=C361&Store_Code=LPE

If you were in the area, I would let you borrow mine. Also, your stock pump will not suffice. Recommend the Racetronix kit. Try not to mess with voltage boosters.

I have my Magnavolt still if you're interested it worked when i pulled it... Stock pump gave out and I went with a Walbro 255. I may have the programmer I'll have to double check... Although I'm not sure if it locks to a vehicle or not

If you are doing headers as well, don't bother with the canned tune, go ahead and get a real tune. The Maggie tune is pretty shitty anyhow.

The main reason I want the canned tune is to be able to drive it to the tuner and also test run it before taking it there in order to make sure everything is intact.

Is the magnavolt required if I go with a bigger fuel pump

Is the magnavolt required if I go with a bigger fuel pump

No you'll be fine without it... honestly it's the better way to go even though it's a PITA

No you'll be fine without it... honestly it's the better way to go even though it's a PITA

Are you saying it's a better way to go with the magnavolt or bigger fuel pump?

Are you saying it's a better way to go with the magnavolt or bigger fuel pump?

Sorry I guess I was misleading... I think installing a bigger pump is the way to go... one less component in the fuel system to go bad. I went with a Walbro 255 and it's plenty for the standard Maggie setup. I wish I would've gone with an even larger pump because now I'm itching to go e85... just something for you to think about if that is in your plans

You can buy the kit directly from Magnuson for pinning your crank.

Any of the parts for the kit can be sourced from Magnuson

Jealous :(

Finally get the car paid off, a I'm thinking, yep- it's maggie time...

Nope, it's car seat time.


I could still get one.... It would definitely help me get more chicks too, since I'd be divorced.

I have a pinning kit, Magnavolt and programmer. PM me.

PM Sent Branland.

Also, LPE had the rear maggie belts. I ordered two just to have one for backup.

The ATI pin kit is not required, but highly recommended:

http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATI918993&Category_Code=C361&Store_Code=LPE

If you were in the area, I would let you borrow mine. Also, your stock pump will not suffice. Recommend the Racetronix kit. Try not to mess with voltage boosters.

Fuzzy,

Is this the racetronix kit you are referring to?

http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=FPA-008&eq=&Tp=

The main reason I want the canned tune is to be able to drive it to the tuner and also test run it before taking it there in order to make sure everything is intact.

You will be fine without the tune while driving to the tuner...keep it easy and stay out of boost. Hell, the "Dyno tune" I paid for after installing my Maggie was a stock tune with raped PE tables...you'll be fine.

Also, if you are on the fence about the Magnavolt vs fuel pump, etc...most have gone to the MSD fuel pump booster. Nobody has had any problems with them and they are programmable. I would NOT buy a Magnavolt, they had so many problems not even Magnuson uses them anymore. The OE pump is fine.

You will be fine without the tune while driving to the tuner...keep it easy and stay out of boost. Hell, the "Dyno tune" I paid for after installing my Maggie was a stock tune with raped PE tables...you'll be fine.

Also, if you are on the fence about the Magnavolt vs fuel pump, etc...most have gone to the MSD fuel pump booster. Nobody has had any problems with them and they are programmable. I would NOT buy a Magnavolt, they had so many problems not even Magnuson uses them anymore. The OE pump is fine.

The tuner I plan to go to is approx 40 miles away and it mostly freeway. Would that still be safe? As for the MSD, man, $400! Other than harder install, wouldn't the better fuel pump be the more economical way to go?

yes.. changing the pump is the way to go! and if u drive the car that 40 miles be very careful with the gas pedal. drive like granny

I say you do a pump and Racetronix kit and be done with it... That way future mods wont be an issue...

I'd also say do the fuel pump so you don't have to worry about a Boost-a-pump. Magnuson switched to using Kenny Bells since the Magnavolt sucked.

DMM is right. Forget the shitty Maggie tune since you are putting on headers.

Is the link I posted the pump kit to get from racetronix. It doesn't specify the type of pump in the description.

This is what I have that should work for what you need

http://www.thunderracing.com/shop-by/vehicle/2004-2007-Cadillac-CTS-V/Fuel-System/Fuel-Pumps-and-Controllers/

Maggie's arrival. This was last week.

http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m326/nlspears01/Cadillac%20Forums/IMG_3062.jpg

The Pacesetter header install went flawlessly. Had no issues with header bolts or clearance. The wires weren't hard at all to get out with long pliers and leverage against the valve covers.

Coil Packs Removed

http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m326/nlspears01/Cadillac%20Forums/IMG_3078.jpg


Passenger manifold removed

http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m326/nlspears01/Cadillac%20Forums/IMG_3079.jpg

Both Manifolds removed

http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m326/nlspears01/Cadillac%20Forums/IMG_3082.jpg

My CS Gray Motormount looks like its going to implode. :|

http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m326/nlspears01/Cadillac%20Forums/IMG_3085.jpg

Pacesetters wrapped in titanium wrap. I did not enjoy the wrapping process. What a pain.

http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m326/nlspears01/Cadillac%20Forums/IMG_3088.jpg

Installed

http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m326/nlspears01/Cadillac%20Forums/IMG_3089.jpg

http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m326/nlspears01/Cadillac%20Forums/IMG_3091.jpg

http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m326/nlspears01/Cadillac%20Forums/IMG_3092.jpg

http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m326/nlspears01/Cadillac%20Forums/IMG_3094.jpg

Bastard, you have a lift!!!

Congrats, looks good :cool:

Lol no kidding... Glad its coming together!

I'd get those motor mounts out of there asap

No joke... Is that heat warp?

I'm MELTING!!! Oh what a world, what a world....

Dothe mounts have a steel center or something like a steel cylinder in inside the urethane?

I have some gray mounts I haven't installed. He has improved the mounts and they no longer fail like that. Just call him he'll replace them for free.

CS is sending me out a new set. They did require a deposit or the original mounts. Ya suckas must have been scamming them. :) Also still waiting for my msd wires and plugs from Nasty Performance if those ever arrive.

Had a crappy sleep last night because now I am kinda pissed that I may have to remove my headers to install these new motor mounts. Two steps forward three steps back....sigh.

Don't get too bent outta shape. Every time you take those headers off it gets easier. I think I did it two or three times during my recent heads project while the car was on jack stands. The last time I put them back in I did it without anyone holding a primary while I started threads.

Yeah, already took the exhaust and headers off in about 15 minutes. I love my lift!

Very nice wrap job!

At least you have a lift so whipping those motor mounts won't be that hard. Nice garage!

Very nice wrap job!

At least you have a lift so whipping those motor mounts won't be that hard. Nice garage!

Oh man, my wrap job is horrid, there are strings all over the place. The pictures just make it look better. I figure function over looks. Still glad I did it.

Oh man, my wrap job is horrid, there are strings all over the place. The pictures just make it look better. I figure function over looks. Still glad I did it.

Even so, you can barely see it when on the car so who cares. You are exactly right.....as long as it works (which it totally does) who cares what it looks like.

Yeah, wrapping definitely takes some patience, along with gloves and long sleeves. That stuff frays easily and leaves particles ALL over you. I think mine turned out pretty nicely. Some say wrapped headers are ugly, but I kinda like the look along with the heat protection.
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s98/GDPossehl/CTS-V/IMG_1630.jpg

looks good Bud. I wish I wrapped my headers before I installed them but o well.

Wrap that shit up, B

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Ya6wmR5nrg

Well, since my motor mounts won't be here till tomorrow, I went ahead and did the wiper assembly mod and removed the front bumper cover. Going to take the bumper cover to a body shop and have it repainted.

Put in the new motormounts from CS. They are much better quality than the old grey ones I had.

http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m326/nlspears01/Cadillac%20Forums/IMG_3101.jpg

The old mounts were pretty bad. One was warped and the one pictured was warped and melting at the top.

http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m326/nlspears01/Cadillac%20Forums/IMG_3102.jpg

I'd also like to give a HUGE THANK YOU to forum member BRANLAND.

This dude sent me a new pinning kit, an unused programmer, and a magnavolt. For how much? FOR NOTHING but shipping!! :hail:

I don't plan on using the magnavolt, but if the next forum member installing a maggie needs one, I will pay it forward.

Thanks again BRANLAND!!:cheers:

I'll take that magna volt .. Pm me

Dang! First hiccup during the maggie install. The Magnacharger manual states to torque the coolant vent pipe bolts to 106 ft/lbs. Now I thought it was pretty high, yet went ahead and attempted since I wanted to follow the instructions precisely. Well, I ended up breaking the bolt into the block. Fortunately I was able to extract it with on damage to the threads, but now I need to get another bolt. Does anyone know where I can get this or what size and thread type I need to look for?

I thought it was inch / lbs. You can the bolts from Magnusson. if you get them local make sure they are hardened.

I thought it was inch / lbs. You can the bolts from Magnusson. if you get them local make sure they are hardened.

:bang: You're right. I just looked again and it says inch/lbs. Why they change up like that right in the middle of the install instructions? Everything was foot/lbs up until the vent pipe. :guns:

I need to find out what size bolt is and thread before I can even consider finding it local. From reading past maggie installs it looks like these bolts were included in the maggie kits and everyone used their stock bolts.

Found the same size bolt at Oreily's. The size is M6-1.0x30mm.

So I ended up using foil tape to hold the knock sensor wires down. Anythjng wrong with this?

I am also missing one of the o rings on the valley cover. Will this be an issue. What purpose do they serve?

So I ended up using foil tape to hold the knock sensor wires down. Anythjng wrong with this?

No. Is there a reason you didn't use the permatex high temp gasket maker stuff?

I am also missing one of the o rings on the valley cover. Will this be an issue. What purpose do they serve?

That's fine, they are just used to the valley cover and intake manifold don't have a metal to metal contact. you can always cut an oring out of thick enough rubber if you want to have one there.

No. Is there a reason you didn't use the permatex high temp gasket maker stuff?



That's fine, they are just used to the valley cover and intake manifold don't have a metal to metal contact. you can always cut an oring out of thick enough rubber if you want to have one there.

I went ahead and used gasket maker to hold them down. The foil tape kept coming up.

Okay,

So I need a belt tensioner. What and where can I get a good one thats comparable to the one that comes with the maggie kit? I looked at Autozone, Oreily's, and Advanced Auto's sites and couldn't find anything heavy duty per se.

Also, I am trying to get the crank bolt off. How are you guys removing it without the crank turning?

Okay,

So I need a belt tensioner. What and where can I get a good one thats comparable to the one that comes with the maggie kit? I looked at Autozone, Oreily's, and Advanced Auto's sites and couldn't find anything heavy duty per se.

Also, I am trying to get the crank bolt off. How are you guys removing it without the crank turning?

Stick the car in 4th gear and crank. If that's not enough have someone also stand on the brakes.

I would order the belt tensioner from Magnuson. It's now much beefier and comes in an 8 rib, in case you ever go that route.

Order the one for the LS3 from Magnuson... P/N 31-14-59-041... it's beefier than the LS6 tensioner. I ordered this along with my 2.6" pulley (which I have not installed yet)

I actually have a good tensioner, but need just the bracket.

Order the one for the LS3 from Magnuson... P/N 31-14-59-041... it's beefier than the LS6 tensioner. I ordered this along with my 2.6" pulley (which I have not installed yet)

Thanks for the P/N. I went ahead and ordered it from Magnuson.

Stick the car in 4th gear and crank. If that's not enough have someone also stand on the brakes.

I would order the belt tensioner from Magnuson. It's now much beefier and comes in an 8 rib, in case you ever go that route.


I did try 1 and 3 gear and it still turned. I will try 4th. Just seems like I may damage something internal pulling on it like that. In regards to pushing the brakes...how does that help since the car is on the ground and not moving anyway?

You are going to have to have someone stand on the brakes to loosen the crank bolt. FYI - get an ARP crank bolt to replace the OE one, they require much less torque than the TTY crank bolt from GM.

Do you have the tensioner extension plate from the Maggie kit? If you do, you can order the style tensioner that is used by Maggie through Gates for $50. If not, get the Maggie setup, it will be much easier than piecing everything together.

You are going to have to have someone stand on the brakes to loosen the crank bolt. FYI - get an ARP crank bolt to replace the OE one, they require much less torque than the TTY crank bolt from GM.

Do you have the tensioner extension plate from the Maggie kit? If you do, you can order the style tensioner that is used by Maggie through Gates for $50. If not, get the Maggie setup, it will be much easier than piecing everything together.

I didn't have the plate, yet ordered the gates tensioner, not knowing I needed the plate. Thus, the tensioner will be sent back. I ended up ordering the kit from Magnuson.

I needed at least a 3 foot breaker bar to get the crank bolt loose.

I did try 1 and 3 gear and it still turned. I will try 4th. Just seems like I may damage something internal pulling on it like that. In regards to pushing the brakes...how does that help since the car is on the ground and not moving anyway?

if it's in gear, then its connected to the driveshaft and therefore to the wheels. A long breaker bar 4th gear and someone on the brakes and you will get it off. don't forget to put a soft landing place for the breaker bar for once the bolt gives way. :thumb:

Here's what I did.
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2004-2007-cadillac-cts-v-performance/248911-crank-pulley-failure-help-2.html#post2823111

I borrowed my neighbors cheater pipe and the bolt came off surprisingly easy. It turned so smooth that I thought the pulley was still turning. Only took one arm too to pull on it too.

It just got real! :cheers:

http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m326/nlspears01/Cadillac%20Forums/IMG_3239.jpg

http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m326/nlspears01/Cadillac%20Forums/IMG_3240.jpg

http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m326/nlspears01/Cadillac%20Forums/IMG_3238.jpg

http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m326/nlspears01/Cadillac%20Forums/IMG_3245.jpg

http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m326/nlspears01/Cadillac%20Forums/IMG_3246.jpg

Hey man, if you want a 2.6 pulley for that, give me a shout. Brand new, never used from pulley boys.

Hey man, if you want a 2.6 pulley for that, give me a shout. Brand new, never used from pulley boys.

I'll definitely think about it.

On another note, where can I find a TPS extension harness and a fuel line extension?

I'll definitely think about it.

On another note, where can I find a TPS extension harness and a fuel line extension?

I would just extend the existing harness. Cut and solder, will probably take about 90 minutes.

You can make your own fuel line extension using the Dormon fuel line repair ends, reinforced rubber high pressure fuel line, and double clamps.

Edit: Actually, I may have my old Maggie extension harness as my Maggie went on an LS2. Let me look around down in the shop and see if I still have it. If I have it, its yours as long as the guy that got my Maggie doesn't want to hold onto it. I'll let you know.

I would just extend the existing harness. Cut and solder, will probably take about 90 minutes.

You can make your own fuel line extension using the Dormon fuel line repair ends, reinforced rubber high pressure fuel line, and double clamps.

Edit: Actually, I may have my old Maggie extension harness as my Maggie went on an LS2. Let me look around down in the shop and see if I still have it. If I have it, its yours as long as the guy that got my Maggie doesn't want to hold onto it. I'll let you know.

I will look into that. Is there a specific gauge of wire for the extension of the TPS? Would the wrong gauge affect the signal? I will have to do the same for the ECT connector as that seams to not reach back to the throttle body also.

I will look into that. Is there a specific gauge of wire for the extension of the TPS? Would the wrong gauge affect the signal? I will have to do the same for the ECT connector as that seams to not reach back to the throttle body also.

Sorry man, looked around and could not find it, I may have given it to the guy that got my old Maggie. I did find the LS6 snout and his old fuel rail that I have to send to him though.

If memory serves me correctly, it is 16-18 gauge wire. I think I used 14 ga. (that is what I had at the time) when I extended the LS2 harness and the wire was almost double the size. Wire is not going to be the issue here, the connections will be. Make sure your joints are good and heat shrink them.

Sorry man, looked around and could not find it, I may have given it to the guy that got my old Maggie. I did find the LS6 snout and his old fuel rail that I have to send to him though.

If memory serves me correctly, it is 16-18 gauge wire. I think I used 14 ga. (that is what I had at the time) when I extended the LS2 harness and the wire was almost double the size. Wire is not going to be the issue here, the connections will be. Make sure your joints are good and heat shrink them.

No Problem. I will pick up some wire and get to work on the connections. Per the installation is looks like the Purge Solenoid connection and IAT is stretching around the back of the engine to get to the other side of the maggie. Is that correct. This will let me know how much wire I should add to those two. As for the TPS that pretty obvious how long it is.

Correct. It really is not too much. I would get one roll of however they sell it (20 ft. Etc) and some black flex tubing from Harbor Frieght so it looks factory. Zip tie the flex to the engine harness that runs under the front of the Maggie so it does not get chewed up by the pulley. If you don't already have it, it takes a standard GM IAT sensor connector and 99 Camaro LS1 sensor.

Correct. It really is not too much. I would get one roll of however they sell it (20 ft. Etc) and some black flex tubing from Harbor Frieght so it looks factory. Zip tie the flex to the engine harness that runs under the front of the Maggie so it does not get chewed up by the pulley. If you don't already have it, it takes a standard GM IAT sensor connector and 99 Camaro LS1 sensor.

Yep, I plan on getting the flex tube and wire. I have a harness that connect off of the maf connector and splits off for the IAT, so I won't have to cut it. As for the purge solenoid connector, don't I have to just extent the existing one? What is the LS1 sensor for that you are referring to. Also, what is the fitting that is sticking out the side of the maggie on the passenger side next to the purge solenoid. It screws into the side of the maggie. I don't see it in the instructions.

Lookin' good boss!!


I know you already got it, but I when removing my balancer, I put mine in 4th and had no problems.

Back wheels were on ground if that matters.

Yep, I plan on getting the flex tube and wire. I have a harness that connect off of the maf connector and splits off for the IAT, so I won't have to cut it. As for the purge solenoid connector, don't I have to just extent the existing one? What is the LS1 sensor for that you are referring to. Also, what is the fitting that is sticking out the side of the maggie on the passenger side next to the purge solenoid. It screws into the side of the maggie. I don't see it in the instructions.

The IAT sensor is from a 99 LS1 Camaro...if you ever need to source another one. That's what I was talking about. Sorry for any confusion.

You are correct about the purge connector, cut the connector off, extend the wiring (I run the purge solenoid wires in the black tubing with the IAT wires since they are so close together) and reconnect color for color.

Not sure what you are referring to about the fitting...there are two fittings on the snout for the purge and PVC lines if I recall correctly. Can you post a picture of what you are referring to with a call-out?

The little black thing sticking out on the left side on the fuel rail in this picture from 1BADCTS

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d90/mark_woodruff/0684619a.jpg

Umm...that is what is left of the Maggie kit fuel line extension. The rubber hose was cut just prior to the double clamp and quick disconnect fitting. Use the OE fuel line disconnect tool to disconnect the fitting and you will see what I mean. This is the same fitting that attaches to the OE fuel rail.

When sourcing the parts to make an extension line, use the existing female line fitting that you now have, and purchase a male fitting that will go into the OE female quick disconnect fitting.

Also, you want that braided fuel line that goes from one fuel rail to the other to go over top of the supercharger...the jack-shaft will rub it through if you don't.

Here are the best pics of mine that I have for reference....

Also, take note of where the fuel line is that the extension plugs into. I always finagle the fuel line further to the passenger side, swapping its location with the purge line so it is father away from the from the rear jack-shaft pulley. Zip tie the shit out of it so it does not move.

Actually I was referring the the device right below where the fuel extension is cut. It is sticking put pointing to the left.

Dang, sorry man. Never seen one. Possibly looks to be a pressure sending unit, which our cars do not use. I would plug it if not required.

Yea that's the sending unit for a fuel pressure gauge. I would leave it and use it if you ever buy a gauge.

Yea that's the sending unit for a fuel pressure gauge. I would leave it and use it if you ever buy a gauge.

Hey 1Badcts,

Another thing I noticed in your pictures is that you don't have the purge solenoid mounted anywhere. Did you use it?

Okay, I have the HEX mounted which was not problem at all. I then installed the HEX Tank brackets as instructed (Passenger AC Condenser mounts and middle radiator screw hole). Now why the heck don't the Tank's slots line up with the brackets? I can't pushed the tank any further to the passenger side.

Same problem I had many years ago.

They drilled the template wrong.

Get a Dremel or a needle file.

I managed to mount it. I turned the brackets to the side and put the tank a little higher.

Hey 1Badcts,

Another thing I noticed in your pictures is that you don't have the purge solenoid mounted anywhere. Did you use it?

Yes I used it, it just got moved at some point.

Okay, I have the HEX mounted which was not problem at all. I then installed the HEX Tank brackets as instructed (Passenger AC Condenser mounts and middle radiator screw hole). Now why the heck don't the Tank's slots line up with the brackets? I can't pushed the tank any further to the passenger side.
I forgot to send you the bracket I made with the holes slotted. I'll get it in the mail today after work.

Brandland comes through again! Don't know what to say bro!

So I cut and soldered all six wires to extend my Tps connector. I then went to get the intercooler pump harness. Lo and behold the tps harness was tangled inside it. Man was I pisses!!! I undid all the wiring and soldered it back the way it was and now have the harness connected.

Well, everything is installed except my belt tensioner that I am waiting for from Magnuson and my fuel pump and wiring harness that seems like it will never come.

yeah, branland is the man. That bracket for the intercooler pump is pretty tits

DMM. Is that pulley a direct fit?

Yes, it is a direct fit. I had a different pulley (see pics) and could not use it. I think it cost me $75 from pulleyboys.com, whatever you want to offer since i cannot use it.

Okay, so today I fired up the CTS-V for the first time. I had just installed a Racetronic fuel pump (not the harness yet).

Well to say the least, the car ran like crap, just sitting there idling. It could barely keep the idle and then just shut off.

So I figured, maybe it needs the mangnuson tune on it. I go to install the program and everything seems to be running fine, then the dash blinks and the programmer says it "lost connection to the pcm, turn on ignition."

So I turn the car off and back on and then replug the programmer. It states on the screen that the installed program is the tune file, but when I try to run the program again for the heck of it, it say it can't talk to the pcm. Also when I try to start the car nothing happens, not turn over or nothing.

The 04's and early 05's needed a firmware update to the PCM in order for the Magnusson tune to install correctly.

The problem was the tune would not be accepted.

Sounds like your install coughed and puked and killed the PCM to boot.

Welcome to MOD HELL.

You might be able to reload the stock tune and start over.

The 04's and early 05's needed a firmware update to the PCM in order for the Magnusson tune to operate correctly.

The problem was the tune would not be accepted.

Sounds like your install coughed and puked and killed the PCM to boot.

Welcome to MOD HELL.

You might be able to reload the stock tune and start over.

That is what I didn't want to hear. :bang:

I started using this guy:

http://hitechtuning.com/

Okay, so today I fired up the CTS-V for the first time. I had just installed a Racetronic fuel pump (not the harness yet).

Well to say the least, the car ran like crap, just sitting there idling. It could barely keep the idle and then just shut off.

So I figured, maybe it needs the mangnuson tune on it. I go to install the program and everything seems to be running fine, then the dash blinks and the programmer says it "lost connection to the pcm, turn on ignition."

So I turn the car off and back on and then replug the programmer. It states on the screen that the installed program is the tune file, but when I try to run the program again for the heck of it, it say it can't talk to the pcm. Also when I try to start the car nothing happens, not turn over or nothing.
Wow. I got it from a guy that said he never installed it, he said the guy he got it from, returned it to stock.
When I installed my maggie, my car wouldn't idle at all. I had to have it towed to the Tuner. They flashed the PCM once to change the injector size so it would idle, then put it on the dyno to start tuning it.

They then got a reduce power mode error from the PCM. They figure out it was a bad splice I made to one of the sensors. After they fixed that they started tuning again and the PCM died. They were able to get me one for about $400.00, I think they retail for about $600.00.

After that they started tuning it on the dyno. When they were done it was making about 470 at the rear wheels but running a little lean, so the added a little fuel up top and made one more pass. This time they exploded the coupler and damaged one of the sensors on the tranny.


I then ordered and Revflex coupler and had them install it. They put it on the lift to try to get rid of the vibration and locked the keys in the car on the lift while it was running. I have to drive down and give them the second set of keys.

They had the car for three weeks.

I feel bad about the tuner. I'll refund you paypal. Hope the bracket and the pin kit work out better for you.

The tuner is vin controlled.

That was the problem with the early V's.

Not a "showstopper" but it did require a correction via TECH II.

The tuner is vin controlled.

That was the problem with the early V's.

Not a "showstopper" but it did require a correction via TECH II.

What service did you use by the link you provided.


Hmmm, in regards to the vin control. Wouldn't the superchips not even allow you to start programming if the vin is the issue?

What service did you use by the link you provided.


Hmmm, in regards to the vin control. Wouldn't the superchips not even allow you to start programming if the vin is the issue?

I had Ed retune my current PCM that was originally tuned by STEALTH.



The SUPERCHIP should not have allowed the PCM to program because of the VIN identifier, but I don't know if the PCM has been modified or the SUPERCHIP.

I had Ed retune my current PCM that was originally tuned by STEALTH.



The SUPERCHIP should not have allowed the PCM to program because of the VIN identifier, but I don't know if the PCM has been modified or the SUPERCHIP.

Well i know the pcm was stock, as for the programmer, I don't know. Regardless, I can't get any comm to the pcm with the progammer and I tried my obd reader with no success also.
Are the symptoms of a bricked pcm when you tried to start the car all of the interior lights including the radio, dash, and window button turn off when I turn the key?

I would quit screwing around with the PCM...hit up EdCat (he's over in the Tuning/PCM diag section) and see what he thinks. He is able to un-brick PCM's if they are not too far gone.

I would quit screwing around with the PCM...hit up EdCat (he's over in the Tuning/PCM diag section) and see what he thinks. He is able to un-brick PCM's if they are not too far gone.

Ok, I sent him a PM.

Okay, so it looks like I have to purchase another PCM. Ed even stated it cheaper to go that route rather than paying to unbrick the current one. With that said, what are somethings I need to know in regard to a PCM swap. Will my key/key fob lose it's programming. If I buy a used one from someone, is the VIN burned in? Any additional info is appreciated.

Okay, so it looks like I have to purchase another PCM. Ed even stated it cheaper to go that route rather than paying to unbrick the current one. With that said, what are somethings I need to know in regard to a PCM swap. Will my key/key fob lose it's programming. If I buy a used one from someone, is the VIN burned in? Any additional info is appreciated.

If the FOB is programmed to the PCM then Its just a simple reprogram via a tech II to your new one. that being said i don't know if its the PCM or another control module that pairs with the FOB.

Okay, so it looks like I have to purchase another PCM. Ed even stated it cheaper to go that route rather than paying to unbrick the current one. With that said, what are somethings I need to know in regard to a PCM swap. Will my key/key fob lose it's programming. If I buy a used one from someone, is the VIN burned in? Any additional info is appreciated.

They need to program in the vin.

I would get a replacement that is pre-tuned for your car.

Okay, so I got another pc with my Vin paired and the stock CTS-V tune. The car fired right up. I think I may give the programmer another shot. In hindsight, when I first did the programming, I forgot to unhook my amp and intercooler pump from the battery. That may have caused the program to fail in the middle of it and brick my first PCM. I don't think the programmer is vin locked as it would not let me start programming if it was locked.

You can do an inline 255 and not drop the tank - just plumb it in before the fuel filter as the fuel filter also acts as the regulator. Works like a charm - easy to wire to the same spot the magnavolt guide advises to wire the magnavolt to.

Your injectors are going to be vastly larger than the ECM is tuned for, I can't say I tried it, nor would I; but I kinda doubt it starts and runs to even drive to a tuner.

Update:

The Walbro fuel pump was installed. I used the copper pipe method and banged the lock ring so much that I ordered another to replace it. I then picked up a used lock ring ring for a Chevy Equinox for $6 off of Ebay and cut it up till it fit my lock ring. Worked like a charmed.

I have also ran the Racetronix Harness. That was pretty simple once I was able to push the connectors through the access panel hole from under the car.

1BADCTS sold me his old PCM that had a tune on it for the supercharger. I managed to change the VIN with HPTuners, get around the VATS relearn.

The car fired up and idles great and revs great. I have to put my bumper cover back on and take it for a test drive.

You might want to see if you can reprogram your old PCM for passing emissions testing.

(don't ask why)

You might want to see if you can reprogram your old PCM for passing emissions testing.

(don't ask why)

Haha in Michigan? No emissions testing here?

Haha in Michigan? No emissions testing here?

Lucky bastard.

I literally fucked around for over a year with the CA DMV getting my car passed (it finally did).

Glad for you your car is up and running. :hail:

Glad to hear the beast is running...

So I took it out just to see how it drives. I didn't push it cause one of my tires was real low. Boy are the headers loud, but I could tell that I had a leak at the connector on the driver side. I will try to alleviate that and report back.

I will definitely be looking into either mufflers or high flow cats to quiet it down.

Yeah, wrapping definitely takes some patience, along with gloves and long sleeves. That stuff frays easily and leaves particles ALL over you. I think mine turned out pretty nicely. Some say wrapped headers are ugly, but I kinda like the look along with the heat protection.
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s98/GDPossehl/CTS-V/IMG_1630.jpg

I think I may have to invent a dip or "brush on" header wrap. It will be almost like having a cast put on a broken arm. Lay the product on in wet sheets, then paint on the cover goop and let it set up. Pick your own color. I think it'll sell pretty well....I'll let everyone know when its ready for purchase.

Yeah, wrapping definitely takes some patience, along with gloves and long sleeves. That stuff frays easily and leaves particles ALL over you. I think mine turned out pretty nicely. Some say wrapped headers are ugly, but I kinda like the look along with the heat protection.
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s98/GDPossehl/CTS-V/IMG_1630.jpg

You did a good job man. Exhaust wraps are definitely worth it. When I see wrapped headers I think it looks great because I know its good for performance.

Took the car out for its first real drive to work today. All I can say is WOW!! :headbang: This thing pulls like a V on steroieds!! The difference is unbelievable. I am so happy I can't take the grin off of my face. The tune 1BADCTS had on the PCM he sold me runs great. I do get some backfire on high rpm shifts, so I may still take it to the tuner to get it tweaked since his tune was tweaked for a Magnavolt, and I have a Walbro Fuel Pump.

Regardless, the install was a success! Thanks Guys!! I will post vids when I get some time.

Sweet man! Glad you're happy with it! I know the feeling :)

Took the car to Vector Motorsports to get the car tuned off of the tune 1BADCTS gave me on his PCM. The first (non tweaked) run put out 408rwhp/367rwtq at 6psi of boost. Steve at Vector manage to squeeze out another 20hp to 427rwhp/382rwtq at 6psi of boost. We did have some IAT issues, I was hanging at 140deg. We figured I didn't bleed the intercooler well enough and there wasn't enough coolant running through. I also noticed he ran it with the A/C on. I don't know if that would rob it of any numbers or not. DANG Mustang Dynos!

http://s332.photobucket.com/albums/m326/nlspears01/Cadillac%20Forums/?action=view&current=IMG_0926.mp4

cam it and throw some headers on it, and you'll be really amazed

cam it and throw some headers on it, and you'll be really amazed

I already have some pacesetters on it. I have thought about a cam, but I think I will not put anymore money into it. I will most likely be going to a V2 next year.

Congrats! Now show us an engine bay pic... I miss that thing already!

9 Months without my car leaves me really missing a good performance car...

In the summer I ran water + water wetter, with zero antifreeze and saw an average 5-8 deg temp drop in IAT. Then during the winter replaced it with 50/50 antifreeze.

Took the car to Vector Motorsports to get the car tuned off of the tune 1BADCTS gave me on his PCM. The first (non tweaked) run put out 408rwhp/367rwtq at 6psi of boost. Steve at Vector manage to squeeze out another 20hp to 427rwhp/382rwtq at 6psi of boost. We did have some IAT issues, I was hanging at 140deg. We figured I didn't bleed the intercooler well enough and there wasn't enough coolant running through. I also noticed he ran it with the A/C on. I don't know if that would rob it of any numbers or not. DANG Mustang Dynos!

I don't know anything about Vector Motorsports, but I do know that running the car on the dyno with the A/C on is an amateurish mistake. Those numbers seem 30-40 RWHP low. I'm beating you with a small cam (Mustang dyno as well), and I'll probably jump a little higher when I install my 4.0" silicon intake tube. Have you tried checking in with Punishmentcycle? AFAIK, he's got a lot of experience with the CTS-V MP112 and IATs.

Congrats! Now show us an engine bay pic... I miss that thing already!

9 Months without my car leaves me really missing a good performance car...

In the summer I ran water + water wetter, with zero antifreeze and saw an average 5-8 deg temp drop in IAT. Then during the winter replaced it with 50/50 antifreeze.

Sure I will post a pic up soon.

I don't know anything about Vector Motorsports, but I do know that running the car on the dyno with the A/C on is an amateurish mistake. Those numbers seem 30-40 RWHP low. I'm beating you with a small cam (Mustang dyno as well), and I'll probably jump a little higher when I install my 4.0" silicon intake tube. Have you tried checking in with Punishmentcycle? AFAIK, he's got a lot of experience with the CTS-V MP112 and IATs.

I am not absolutely sure he ran it with the A/C on or not. Doesn't the AC and all turn on automatically when you turn the car on? That may be the case. Anyway I emailed them to ask. This guy does most of the tuning for Katech so I would think he knows his stuff.

Some bay pics. You can't eat off of it like Fuzzy's engine bay though. I still need to get an LS2 strut bar. Photobucket is giving me some issues, so I attached them.

Some bay pics. You can't eat off of it like Fuzzy's engine bay though. I still need to get an LS2 strut bar. Photobucket is giving me some issues, so I attached them.

I don't think I'm anywhere near there, but you can be the judge of that (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v219/QuicksilverG4/CTS-V/CIMG0029.jpg).

Have you considered dumping a couple of buckets of very soapy water on there and finishing it off with a good rinse? Should improve things a lot. Then you could use some engine degreaser or Eagle One A2Z, which works surprisingly well as a degreaser. Mother's VLR is a good finisher for plastic pieces. This is how your bay should look in the end:

http://www.lingenfelter.com/images/Ken's%20CTS-V004_600.jpg

Finally, you might be able to contact brian@magnusonproducts.com to see if they'll sell you the strut bar pictured above. They fabricated those for Lingenfelter's TVS1900 kit for the CTS-V (which isn't being sold anymore).

Soldered in the Omega thermistor for my IAT sensor and the temp changes are definately quicker. I also checked the coolant in the Intercooler hoses and yes, there was still quite a bit of air. I was able to pour a couple of cups of coolant in. I wish I could get it dynoed again, but oh well.

the thermistor mod is good at getting the actual temp dialed in quick, go on frozenboost.com and grab an in-line filler neck..it takes all the guess work out of bleeding the HX.
were always gonna have high IAT's due to the sensor location but thats just the way its gotta be with these blowers. another trick when on the dyno is to leave the key on when tuning and cooling as the HX pump will continue to flow..put the fan right in front of the nose to cool the maggie off.

and last but not least, make sure all acc's are off during dyno time, tuning,and doing pulls. the ac does but a load on the motor. not much but it does

Throw an open cone on there so you can actually hear the blower. Nice work, never the less.

Dang fuzzy you really gotta put your back into it to get the engine so spiffy looking. What degreeser did you use? And what toothbrush lol?

Throw an open cone on there so you can actually hear the blower. Nice work, never the less.

I think I am going to go this route. What cone filter are you guys using for your maggies. Also, what coupler is needed to complete the install?

Throw an open cone on there so you can actually hear the blower. Nice work, never the less.

I went ahead a bought an KN Filter and put in the trash can heat shield. The supercharger whine is definitely much more pronounced now. The only whine I want to hear in this car.

http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m326/nlspears01/Cadillac%20Forums/IMG_3553.jpg

So I have been pondering on why my dyno numbers (427RWHP, 387RWTQ) were much lower than I had expected. I figured maybe the stock box wasn't pulling enough air. I also ponder if the 8.8, thicker driveshaft, and thicker axles, could be causing more drivetrain loss. Well, now the last thing to add to the list, and I am pretty upset :bang: that I didn't notice this before taking it in and paying $550 for a tune. I have a darn 3 inch pulley on the supercharger instead of the 2.8 pulley. 1BADCTS, I don't now how you got your numbers off of this.

Anyway, anyone has a 2.8inch maggie pulley they don't need anymore, or shoudl I just go straight to a 2.7 or 2.6 pulley?

http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m326/nlspears01/Cadillac%20Forums/IMG_3554.jpg

So I have been pondering on why my dyno numbers (427RWHP, 387RWTQ) were much lower than I had expected. I figured maybe the stock box wasn't pulling enough air. I also ponder if the 8.8, thicker driveshaft, and thicker axles, could be causing more drivetrain loss. Well, now the last thing to add to the list, and I am pretty upset :bang: that I didn't notice this before taking it in and paying $550 for a tune. I have a darn 3 inch pulley on the supercharger instead of the 2.8 pulley. 1BADCTS, I don't now how you got your numbers off of this.

Anyway, anyone has a 2.8inch maggie pulley they don't need anymore, or shoudl I just go straight to a 2.7 or 2.6 pulley?

http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m326/nlspears01/Cadillac%20Forums/IMG_3554.jpg

Since you will need a retune with the 2.8 anyways might as well go with the 2.6 and maximize the power potential.

Since you will need a retune with the 2.8 anyways might as well go with the 2.6 and maximize the power potential.

Yeah, I may just go with the happy medium and get a 2.7. I don't want the headache of belt slipping that I have read with the 2.6. What size pulley are you running?

FYI: The A/C shuts off at WOT.

Yeah, I may just go with the happy medium and get a 2.7. I don't want the headache of belt slipping that I have read with the 2.6. What size pulley are you running?

I'm running 2.6 and have no belt slip. You can always drop the belt size by .5 inch and go with the gates fleetRunner green back belt
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=2690&location_id=2743

I'm running 2.6 and have no belt slip. You can always drop the belt size by .5 inch and go with the gates fleetRunner green back belt
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=2690&location_id=2743

Where did you get your pulley from and did you have to machine the s/c shaft?

Where did you get your pulley from and did you have to machine the s/c shaft?

I have the newer TVS style pulley so i got my pulley elsewhere but I believe you can get yours from pulleyboys. And no you do not need to machine the shaft. I did have to sand to inner lip/ ID on the pulley a small amount to get it to spin freely but it was very little. You may not have to do that as another member (twitch) has your style pulley and was able to to put his older style pulley on with no rubbing/grinding.

I have the newer TVS style pulley so i got my pulley elsewhere but I believe you can get yours from pulleyboys. And no you do not need to machine the shaft. I did have to sand to inner lip/ ID on the pulley a small amount to get it to spin freely but it was very little. You may not have to do that as another member (twitch) has your style pulley and was able to to put his older style pulley on with no rubbing/grinding.

Ah okay, the one I see on pulleyboys says they are keyed, so I assume this is to prevent the pulley from spinning on the shaft, similar to how the crank is pinned?

Ah okay, the one I see on pulleyboys says they are keyed, so I assume this is to prevent the pulley from spinning on the shaft, similar to how the crank is pinned?

Correct. In the newer revisions the shaft has four threaded holes in which the pulley is held in by four screws.

I've got a 2.8 and a 2.7 pulley that I've no use for since I went to an 8-rib setup. Pm me an offer.

Okay, so Sweetwillie is sending me a 2.7 pulley(THANKS MAN). I will be going from a 3.0 to a 2.7 pulley. Now I know I will need a tune and will be scheduling a followup tune. My question for the guys that went with a smaller pulley. Is the car drivable after the install? I need to be able to drive the car to the tuner which is about 60 miles away.

yes but dont go into boost!!!!just drive it there like granny.. your adding about 2.5-3lbs so youll go way lean if it does go into boost

by the way, hows that 8.8 treating you? im in the process of doing the swap myself and im more excited about the rear than i was the blower

by the way, hows that 8.8 treating you? im in the process of doing the swap myself and im more excited about the rear than i was the blower

I'm loving the 8.8. It's so solid, I don't even think about the rear now. Just slam through the gears without worry.

yes but dont go into boost!!!!just drive it there like granny.. your adding about 2.5-3lbs so youll go way lean if it does go into boost

By staying out of boost do you mean just keeping it below like 3k rpm?

By staying out of boost do you mean just keeping it below like 3k rpm?

You can't tell when the supercharger takes effect based on your dyno sheets? I think he's inferring that you should stay below 2500 RPM (and preferably lower).

By staying out of boost do you mean just keeping it below like 3k rpm?

It works off vacuum... Basically just don't accelerate hard.., light throttle and 2k rpm shifts

just like Skid said.. the blower works off vac so dont do any sudden stabs at the throttle.. rpms dont matter as long as gradually get up there but i wouldnt do it.. id baby the hell out of it till u get to the tuner.

remember the pulley is gonna make the boost come on alot quicker and alot higher.so be VERY careful till its tuned.. once the tune is done your gonna love it

just like Skid said.. the blower works off vac so dont do any sudden stabs at the throttle.. rpms dont matter as long as gradually get up there but i wouldnt do it.. id baby the hell out of it till u get to the tuner.

remember the pulley is gonna make the boost come on alot quicker and alot higher.so be VERY careful till its tuned.. once the tune is done your gonna love it

Yeah, I am not going to drive it until I drive it to the tuner, so no worries there. It's all freeway, so I should be able to keep it easy. Thanks guys!

By staying out of boost do you mean just keeping it below like 3k rpm?

He means staying below 20% throttle to keep the boost bypass active. Also it is very easy to change so you could drive there on the original pulley and switch it over at the shop if youd like

^^^ thatd be my choice

He means staying below 20% throttle to keep the boost bypass active. Also it is very easy to change so you could drive there on the original pulley and switch it over at the shop if youd like


I may do that if I can do it right in their lot myself. What are you guys using to pull it off. I have read that a power steering puller should be used. Also read putting it on just requires heating it up and using a strap wrench to hold the jack shaft. Anything else?

I may do that if I can do it right in their lot myself. What are you guys using to pull it off. I have read that a power steering puller should be used. Also read putting it on just requires heating it up and using a strap wrench to hold the jack shaft. Anything else?

check the CF forums for a thread by Twitch 2.6" pulley without grinding.

The bolt should be a strap wrench and whatever size socket and wrench the nut is. Do a test removal at your house so you are comfortable with the removal and then put it back on. That way when you get to the tuner you can do it easy and know what you need.

The way I change em is I just heat the pulley since its aluminum and use two pry bars behind the pulley.. I can literally have it off in 5 mins

Okay so my understanding from reading twitch's thread on CF, is that he used a strap wrench to hold the pulley itself. This relies on the key between the pulley and jackshaft to keep it from spinning while he turned the nut off? As for putting the other pulley on, heating it and using the nut to push it back on?

Is this correct?

yes..i dont even bother with a strap wrench..just use an impact gun and hold the pulley with ur hand so it doesnt spin. use the nut to pull the pulley in.

yes..i dont even bother with a strap wrench..just use an impact gun and hold the pulley with ur hand so it doesnt spin. use the nut to pull the pulley in.

Yeah, the impact would be my go to if I do it at home, but that is not an option if I am to do it at the tuner. I bet if I have to borrow their impact they will want to charge and I might as well have them do it.

just swap it and baby the car on the ride to the tuner.. u should be fine as long as ur not in boost..you are tuned for boost so a tiny bit wont hurt, just dont get in the throttle ..take it easy..lol

then after its tuned...beat the hell out of it and have fun on the ride home :-)

just swap it and baby the car on the ride to the tuner.. u should be fine as long as ur not in boost..you are tuned for boost so a tiny bit wont hurt, just dont get in the throttle ..take it easy..lol

then after its tuned...beat the hell out of it and have fun on the ride home :-)

Yeah, just talked to the tuner and he said I should be fine driving it there with the smaller pulley, just stay out of high boost.

Okay, drove to the tuner today with no issues on the 2.7 pulley. We get it on the dyno, and it made 454rwhp/408rwtq, this was up from 427rwhp and 387rwtq, but the tuner said it all came from me adding the cone filter and removing the stock airbox. Why not the pulley I asked, and he said it only made 4psi of boost. I was making 6psi with the 3.0 pulley. So we went to looking around for belt slippage and found black fluid on the maggie intake right next to the front maggie pulley. Low and behold, the top radiator hose was dripping right on the belt. I removed the tension clamp and put on a a hose clamp and the stop the leak. He then sprayed the belt down with brake cleaner type of spray to dry it out. We ran it again and still stuck at 4psi. I then inspected the belt again and while I didn't find noticeable wear, I did see a small bit of black dust under the intake tube and on the super charger itself.

I currently have the Gatorback #4061037. What is a shorter Gatorback belt to use with a 2.7 pulley. Mind you I was using this current belt on my 3.0 pulley and going to 2.7 does leave a bit of slack.

I'm running 2.6 and have no belt slip. You can always drop the belt size by .5 inch and go with the gates fleetRunner green back belt
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=2690&location_id=2743

Onefast,

I forgot about this post. Do you know the part number of which Fleetrunner to get for the .5 inch smaller one?

Onefast,

I forgot about this post. Do you know the part number of which Fleetrunner to get for the .5 inch smaller one?

I believe this is the one you want: K061015HD. it is 101.5 inches

Thanks Man! This should do it.

If your only seeing 4lbs then u got a problem with that belt or the bypass valve. 2.6 should get u to 8 or so lbs. change the belt and make sure the bypass is fully closing

Oh sorry 2.7

The belt u have now is 103.75 in. I'd try that 101in. Gonna be a tight fit but it'll take care of slip.

Anytime u change pulleys, always change the belt.

The belt u have now is 103.75 in. I'd try that 101in. Gonna be a tight fit but it'll take care of slip.

Anytime u change pulleys, always change the belt.

Yeah, after looking at the bay again today, there is a lot of black dust and grime from the belt on many parts. We also made sure the bypass was closing and it did with no problem.

http://s332.photobucket.com/albums/m326/nlspears01/Cadillac%20Forums/?action=view&current=MVI_3571.mp4

http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m326/nlspears01/Cadillac%20Forums/th_MVI_3571.jpg (http://s332.photobucket.com/albums/m326/nlspears01/Cadillac%20Forums/?action=view&current=MVI_3571.mp4)

Dang. After looking at this vid again. I was only getting about 3psi.

http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m326/nlspears01/Cadillac%20Forums/th_MVI_3570.jpg (http://s332.photobucket.com/albums/m326/nlspears01/Cadillac%20Forums/?action=view&current=MVI_3570.mp4)

To make 450 it's gonna take more than 3lbs.. Check the vac hose

That's exactly what I was telling him concerning the boost to hp output. As for the vacuum line, are you saying that the line going to the guage could have had a leak?

Yes.. Something weird was going on.. U need at least 6-8 lbs to get 450

Final tune was today. Final numbers was 467rwhp and 427rwtq at 8.5 psi of boost on a Mustang Dyno at Vector Motorsports. I had shredded through two belts because the maggle pulley had dents in it while on the dyno.

Sweet man glad it all worked out for you... So about those worthless first and second gears... Lol

Solid numbers man, some sort of FI is on my list now that I have all my supporting stuff done.

Solid numbers man, some sort of FI is on my list now that I have all my supporting stuff done.

Yeah, based on your mods you are definitely ready to go FI of some sore. I am just glad I am finally have it just right. Well, after I put on a new pulley, and belt. Running on 5 ribs right now. Lol! :eyes: