General LSX Automobile Discussion - Definition of a budget build

I know its kind of pointless, but im wondering what you guys think. Im in a little bit of a debate over what is considered a budget build.

Obviously its the total cost of your build. But if your brother sells you his $40k 9s fbody for $1... i wouldnt really consider that a budget build. Even though the new owner technically spent $1.

But if you buy used parts, that are normally expensive... is that still a budget build? Ie you pick up a $4k transmission for $1500.


Whats your definition?

Thanks! :cheers:

To me a budget build is spending less than you could have for a build on used parts and finding deals, not so much buying ebay parts. I envision a 20 something year old who can finally afford to build a car, but can't get carried away. Like a $4-5k build instead of 8-12k.

Nt exactly a "build" but a kid I know swapped an LS1 into a 240sx and spent around $2500 ($1500 LS1). Talk about bang for the buck!

Going with a Monster single disc clutch for $600 instead of a $1100 twin disc clutch, $600 for coated Pacesetter headers instead of $1200 Ameican Racing headers ect...

Going with a Monster single disc clutch for $600 instead of a $1100 twin disc clutch, $600 for coated Pacesetter headers instead of $1200 Ameican Racing headers ect...

Ok, so if you spend $20k on parts, but you went with the cheaper name brand then its a budget build? Not really what i would call budget.

Ported stock castings versus TrickFlow's. That should sum it up.

Not really what i would call budget.


What would you call a budget?

Ported stock castings versus TrickFlow's. That should sum it up.

People should remember that at one time the only thing available was factory heads that the sponcers ported and resold. To me a budget build would be a junkyard 6.0 with an LS6 intake, factory heads with a good valve job that are shaved down enough to get the compression up without PVC issues.

"Budget" will always depend on a frame of reference, but to me, it means you pay retail for pretty much nothing. Lots of scouring junk yards, Craigslist, etc. for used parts that are still in good condition, but require some level of effort to obtain (at least more effort than waiting for the UPS guy to show up).

There are certainly budget options out there for parts (headers and heads being two of the more common ones), but to me, buying a used set of decent headers is more budget-minded than paying retail for Chinese knock-offs. Por ejemplo, I sold my Kooks 1-3/4" headers a few years ago for $300-ish, and there wasn't anything wrong with them at all (I was upgrading to 1-7/8" headers at the time). Someone got a pretty good deal on those considering what they cost new.

To me, it's simply the difference between setting a specific maximum dollar amount for the project (budget) vs. setting a project/goal with no fixed/maximum dollar amount.

It's hard to define certain types of parts or ways of finding them (used, new) or specific dollar amounts as "budget" or "non-budget", considering everyone has different financial situations. The same goes for terms such as low buck vs. big dollar, these things are usually subjective.

One person may have a $4k budget for their build, they might buy a few high-end, brand new items at retail prices with this money. Someone else may have a $10k budget, they might buy a ton of used parts and lower priced new parts. In this example, which is the "budget build", the slower car with more expensive parts but less money spent, or the faster car with much cheaper parts but much more money spent? I would argue that they are both budget builds, since both examples were limited to a specific dollar amount/range. To me, a non-budget build would be a project where the goal isn't expressed in nor limited to a specific dollar amount, but rather in its end result, such as: "must run 10s on pump gas, be daily-driveable, have complete interior, etc.".

What would you call a budget?

I dont know, thats why im asking. Not saying your wrong, just not what i have pictured in my head.


To me, meentss02 said it the best.

Followed by RPM WS6.


I guess for me it would need to be broken down into 1/4 time slips (if thats the arena were measuring in). Buying an ebay turbo kit to get into the 13's isnt budget to me, yes its cheaper then the STS kit, but still way to expensive to go 13's... When it can be done with a cam, headers and some suspension... hell, that should get you 12's if you borrow some tires from a sucker friend like me. :)

So id say RPM WS6 is absolutely correct, it needs to be broken down into a frame of reference.

But I also agree with meetss02, that almost nothing should be new (im not saying put a used oil pump and timing chain in a motor, or your not allowed to buy new gaskets). But rather buying used headers versus new ones. Using a 4.8 block instead of a 6.0. Basically doing more with the least amount of money.

My car ;) I got my SLP Blackwing lid for free, bought my Fast Toys Ram Air used for $50, straight traded my factory springs and shocks for Eibach Pro Kit springs and Tokico shocks, bought my TSP rumbler w/ Corso Clone tips used for CHEAP, bought my msd wires for $5 used locally, got my ls6 manifold for free for installing another manifold on a friends car, and my SFC's LCA's & PHB all came from Founder's which are known to have low prices. I paid full price for my wheels, tires, and brakes, everything else was free or used :)

i call my car craigslist camaro ;D

Generally when someone says "budget build", they are going the least expensive route for the build. Like a junkyard 6.0 with heads from their stock LS1 or stock 243s. You could also say they got ported factory heads vs. after market heads.

The are not usually referring to their budget for the build. If I said I had $2k to spend and I need to get heads/can and supporting mods with that amount, it is definately gonna take some parts on the "cheap" side to do that..

Generally when someone says "budget build", they are going the least expensive route for the build. Like a junkyard 6.0 with heads from their stock LS1 or stock 243s. You could also say they got ported factory heads vs. after market heads.

The are not usually referring to their budget for the build. If I said I had $2k to spend and I need to get heads/can and supporting mods with that amount, it is definately gonna take some parts on the "cheap" side to do that..

You may be right, but I would then argue that these people are misusing the word "budget"; instead they should be saying "low budget"....but then, even that term is subjective.

What is a "low" budget? $2k? $4k? $500? $10k? And like I mentioned above, what if someone spends a comparatively small amount of total money on a few high priced items, vs. someone else that spends an overall larger amount of total money on many low priced items? Which one is low budget then? Is it based on price per item, or total cost for the build, or results (track, dyno, etc.) vs. money spent?

I know this entire topic is all just for fun and nothing serious, but truthfully it's not an easy thing to define if you try to apply it to a varity of situations. :)

If you're scouring E-Bay, the tech for-sale listings, and CL... it's a budget build and takes patience. Also, as mentioned earlier, if you're using hand ported OEM castings, porting your factory TB and intake... doing what you can for yourself or relying on friends with skills vs farming everything out to outside professionals.

a "non-budget" build doesn't take risks buying used parts from strangers, or try to tweak/modify OEM parts when better aftermarket versions are available.

IMO a "budget build" is spending smart to achieve your end goals. Depending on the circumstances and goals it is going to be different. Im sure there are people that consider a 150k 1200 hp viper a budget build, to most not so much. But the term is always going to be relative to the circumstances. a 17 y/o kid in high school working part time making minimum wage is going to have a different definition of a budget build then a guy in his late 20's + with a career making decent money.

Agreed this whole subject is "subjective".

I am doing what I can using what I would call a budget method. Meaning I have recently purchased a used yank ss4000 and a used set of TSP 1-7/8" lts. But, really call it whatever you want, I call it smart. You can buy used parts for certain things, but others need to be new IMO.

a 17 y/o kid in high school working part time making minimum wage is going to have a different definition of a budget build then a guy in his late 20's + with a career making decent money.

after learning what I've learned about this. If you make any less than 2134321542 dollars per year, this hobby isn't for you.


All joking aside though, if you're broke before you start modding your car, you really shouldn't start modding your car, because it's going to get A LOT more expensive to do it right, and if you don't do it right, it's gonna be even more expensive to get your cut corners fixed...

just my two cents.

IMO a budget build is getting creative on parts/mods.

Instead of buying 35ths for my car I took stock 10 spokes that were beat to shit, cleaned them up, had them powder coated in silver, taped off the silver and had them powder coated in black. Used some nice spray paint and got some bowtie stickers from bfranker. Even with the purchase of the wheels I have under 500 into the wheels in my sig.

THATS a budget build mindset. Sweat equity as my dad calls it.

budget is when my buddy bought a junkyard 6.0 lq9 for 700$ and bought l92 heads for 600$ slapped together with a 850 carb and open dumps it ran 10.38's on motor with slicks with a torquer v2 cam stock block stock head in a 85 regal gbody with 3.55 gears

I considered my old setup very budget oriented.. (stock intake/hand ported 317s/stock rear/etc..)

I also consider my new setup budget oriented (given what it is). I understand I have 3,000$ in a short block... But I didn't opt for the 1000$ for the 408... I went rectangular VS cathedral to save 1000+$ on heads and 700$ on an intake... The list goes on. I went the MUCH cheaper route and will have similar results. I had money in mind on EVERY purchase.
Build thread in sig..