Cadillac CTS-V - IAT Relocate - Parts?

I'd like to do an IAT relocate and split the MAF thermistor off into the intake filter. I'm planning on ordering parts over the weekend and was wondering if anyone had a list handy. I think I'm pretty capable of figuring it out on my own, but didn't want to waste time forging a path that's already been trodden.

here's the sensor and pigtail you need
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/gm-open-element-iat-sensor-with-pigtail-p-62.html?osCsid=2b7681ccdff76ca28e91f8288b277550
here's the 3/8 NPT bung if you need it
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/38-npt-stainless-steel-weldon-bung-for-iat-or-clt-sensor-p-231.html?osCsid=2b7681ccdff76ca28e91f8288b277550

http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?products_id=1108 harness i used so you don't have to splice anything....then just pick up an iat for like a 98 camaro v8.

I saw that Casper Electronics harness. Looks perfect. I was originally looking at the 1998 Camaro IAT, but based on the parts identified by NEED MO POWA, I figure I could utilize that IAT sensor pigtail and the 3/8" bung to thread the IAT sensor into a 3/8" hole in the back of the air filter.

Does that sound about right?

i honestly don't even have mine IN the filter, just ziptied to it....kinda ghetto but i didn't want to drill into anything and you can't see it anyhow being on the bottom of the filter/intake tube.

i honestly don't even have mine IN the filter, just ziptied to it....kinda ghetto but i didn't want to drill into anything and you can't see it anyhow being on the bottom of the filter/intake tube.

Did you pick up an Omega 44005?

nah I'm just using whatever summitracing recommended....thats where i got the harness too....everything was like $48 shipped

Sorry I'm a noob what does this do performance wise?

The idea behind this is, well its not an idea, more like a fix to a problem.
The IAT sensor gets heat soaked (lets say... idle in traffic) and once you start moving, the actual ingested air temp decreases, but the IAT reading does not change, as the sensor has now been heat soaked.
It throws off your ECMs ability for fueling, more so the higher performance and Forced Induction and especially when a car is in SD mode, where ITAs are used for fueling calculations as mandatory.

The other is the speed or reaction of the sensor... stock sensors are kinda slow, and others offer a quicker response.

I do not experience heat soak, however, I use a Slot Hitachi MAF sensor and disable the MAF portion (as I run Speed Density), but use the built in IAT. (an expensive way to do it -but it works well)... The Sensor is just before the throttle, where, its best to measure - what is the ingested air temp?

Others take the sensor and place outside the engine bay, behind front bumper or near air box. They are measuring the ambient air, and even though its not the most accurate, its a ton better than a heat soaked sensor giving the ECM false temps.

Sorry I'm a noob what does this do performance wise?

Learning more about the internal combustion engine, in a general sense, would be helpful to you. Advise doing a little research.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Internal_combustion_engine#Measures_of_engine_perf ormance

The IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor reads the temperature of the air traveling through the air filter, past the throttle body, and into the intake manifold. Engine timing (advance or retard) is partially based on IAT. Fast and accurate IAT sensing is crucial to maximizing the power output of your engine and minimizing the potential for detonation.

During stop and go driving with low engine RPMs and low ground speed, the engine bay gets really hot. Without a constant flow of cool outside air over the IAT sensor and MAF housing, the metal/plastic gets abnormally hot and transfers that heat to the sensor. The sensor starts reading temperatures that are not indicative of the air flowing into the intake manifold and the engine pulls a lot more timing than it needs to. This is called "heatsoak." When this happens, your engine will make less power than it can. This usually happens during stop-and-go driving and there's not a whole lot you can do about it.

With regards to the LS2-powered Cadillac CTS-V and Pontiac GTO, the MAF IAT sensor is located above and a little bit behind the radiator, which means that waves of intense heat are constantly washing over the assembly and heating up the housing and the sensor. This creates a permanent heatsoak condition.

By relocating the sensor to a position inside the air filter (which in turn, is inside an insulated airbox), the issue specific to the CTS-V and GTO is eliminated. You'll still experience some heatsoak in stop and go situations, but the permanent +ΔT issue will be gone.

Sorry I'm a noob what does this do performance wise?

Is okay John, he is a newb too. He read a few articles and is now titling himself as an expert.

Is okay John, he is a newb too. He read a few articles and is now titling himself as an expert.

If you can find a single place where I call myself an expert, please let me know, because it would be news to me.

You just totaled your CTS-V and figured you could take it out on someone online, eh? What a guy.

http://www.serpents-guild.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=17&pictureid=408

Sorry, wrong guy there fella. I don't take my problems out on anyone. I did total my car, but trust me, there is no resentment towards you for that. I'm sure you will sleep better now. However, your douche comment does provided alternative information towards your thinking of being an expert.

The guy was asking a simplistic question, and as I assumed... You are just regurgitating information that others have stated while pretending to be knowledgable. Just like with every other mod than can be done to these vehicles, you mess it up and have to come back for help. But when someone puts themselves out there, you want to act like your superior. Why didn't you offer your input in a proper manner instead of copy and pasting >75% of your post. It's because you are pretending to be knowledgable and really do not understand the subject. Have a good night.

Can you spot the IAT relocate?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v219/QuicksilverG4/CTS-V/IMG_0167_small.jpg

Easiest thing I've done in a very long time. Everything fit perfectly--just needed a large drill bit to punch a hole into the rubber at the base of the air filter. Added a really, really thick rubber washer around the base of the sensor for insurance. I don't have temperature comparisons yet because it's finals week, but I'll see what I can do about it later. Here are the three parts I ordered (all told, they cost about $60):

http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?products_id=1108
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/gm-open-element-iat-sensor-with-pigtail-p-62.html?osCsid=2b7681ccdff76ca28e91f8288b277550
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/38-npt-stainless-steel-weldon-bung-for-iat-or-clt-sensor-p-231.html?osCsid=2b7681ccdff76ca28e91f8288b277550[/QUOTE]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v219/QuicksilverG4/CTS-V/August2012_Small.jpg

Only a few more weeks before the piano black Forgestar F14s arrive and I have the Extreme Composites hood painted! I'm still tuning the 8", 650 in-lb Eibach springs in the back. I think the rear needs to come up a half of an inch.

Does anyone have any recorded data in regard to this mod?

Does anyone have any recorded data in regard to this mod?

There's a pile of it online. Google "IAT relocate" and maybe throw GTO in there.

There's a pile of it online. Google "IAT relocate" and maybe throw GTO in there.

I am looking for CTS-V specific. IMO, this issue or variance can vary from model to model.

I am looking for CTS-V specific. IMO, this issue or variance can vary from model to model.

The GTO and CTS-V both feature MAFs located over the radiator. The results are similar.

Do you think the different style sensor or just the the 3-5 inch upstream location has a larger effect on the readings for the ls2 v1?

I am running stock air box so would be piping this into the box above the drop in kn filter.

Full article detailing GTO IAT sensor relocate:

http://www.redgto.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10279

Outcome of the article (again, this guy's GTO):

Stock Sensor Location
http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/8e220d87-53bc-4890-ad34-17dd.jpg

Relocated Omega 44005 Sensor
http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/97ccaa7a-dd4d-468d-a1eb-20e4.jpg

I had seen that article but that is a different location(before filter and not directly attached to the main tubing) and slightly different sensor than what you used. I am looking into this mod like the concept but some quick compares with a obd sensor would seal it.

I had seen that article but that is a different location(before filter and not directly attached to the main tubing) and slightly different sensor than what you used. I am looking into this mod like the concept but some quick compares with a obd sensor would seal it.

It's finals week. I'll gather data next week.

cool no problem
I drove a low 200hp(crank) pony car in college how things have changed in 10 years...

How much is timing retarded or A/F adjusted per degree?

How much is timing retarded or A/F adjusted per degree?

I believe there are IAT tables that the computer uses to adjust timing based on your IAT reading. I don't know how the base CTS-V is programmed but i also assume it may not be a linear function.

And for what it's worth, a good rule of thumb is that you gain or lose 2-3 HP per degree of advance or retard in a LSx engine.

Seems like a good investment then,can this be thrown together on a stock car/ecu setup or does it need a tune?
Mainly because the IAT sensor talks about a different ecu setup on that page.

Seems like a good investment then,can this be thrown together on a stock car/ecu setup or does it need a tune?
Mainly because the IAT sensor talks about a different ecu setup on that page.

I think that that article provided the Omega thermistor impedance table just in case your particular ECU lookup table needed to be corrected. I did not utilize the Omega thermistor, because the one in the kit I purchased already is a GM-sanctioned upgrade from stock. I judged the minor, additional increase in IAT sensor responsiveness not worth the uncertainty regarding temperature accuracy.

Ahhh okay,so if i did the relocate on my stock ecu I shouldnt have an issue then?
Im planning on doing long tubes,exhaust and a tune in the near future,but I would like to get this out of the way before the tune as well.
I like your IAT setup,looks great!

Ahhh okay,so if i did the relocate on my stock ecu I shouldnt have an issue then?
Im planning on doing long tubes,exhaust and a tune in the near future,but I would like to get this out of the way before the tune as well.
I like your IAT setup,looks great!

I hope you don't relocate your ECU!

You won't need to retune the car for an IAT sensor relocation, unless you rip out the provided sensor with something like the Omega thermistor, which has a significantly different inpedance.

Do I need to pigtail or does the casper harness have the correct end and I just buy the sensor ?

Do I need to pigtail or does the casper harness have the correct end and I just buy the sensor ?

It's plug and play, except for drilling the hole for the new sensor, if you buy the three parts that I bought. Here they are again:

http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?products_id=1108

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/gm-open-element-iat-sensor-with-pigtail-p-62.html?osCsid=2b7681ccdff76ca28e91f8288b277550

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/38-npt-stainless-steel-weldon-bung-for-iat-or-clt-sensor-p-231.html?osCsid=2b7681ccdff76ca28e91f8288b277550

OK. I bought this one without the pigtail.

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/gm-open-element-iat-sensor-with-connector-p-116.html?osCsid=2b7681ccdff76ca28e91f8288b277550

OK. I bought this one without the pigtail.

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/gm-open-element-iat-sensor-with-connector-p-116.html?osCsid=2b7681ccdff76ca28e91f8288b277550

That should be perfectly fine.