Fueling & Injection - aeromotive A1000 street strip car

hey guys im building a mild strip car, that i would not like to loose streetability on. they just gave me a aeromotive a1000. i was looking at jegs and summit for 10 gal fuel cel lines filter and fpr. ill be putting the cell where the ttop tunnel used to be. will this combo be bad for the street. its not going to be a dd car it will be a friday cruise and track car.

reason im asking this question is, because my uncle keeps telling me not to put it in the car, that those pumps don't last long, that im going to have to be changing pumps every 6 month, and all this bull shit. so id like to hear it from u guys see what u think.

thanks int advanced im doing head cam 150shot on the car till i get some more money and procharge it

no one ?

They don't last on the street even with the pump controller to slow it down,they push too much fuel too hard and it heats up the fuel and burns out the pump. After 2 pumps in about a year, car driven very little, burned out 2nd after a 30 minute drive and left idling for 5 minutes. I decided to do the dual in tank walbro setup with an RPM switch for the second pump. So far so good

oh shit! is there any other inline fuel pump that's good for the street? cause i can run this pump and when it go's get a better suited inline street pump. car will see little street but little can be different for every one. im talking small cruise to beach on fri or sat and the track trips.

my mods are on my sig. id like to hit it with a 150 and later on with a 200 shot, but id like to get the supporting fuel for it. don't want a boom at launch or mid track. dont really like the dual pump set up because of the one failing. that wont let me have a peace of mind. i was also looking at the walbro 400 i was thinking running two separate cells with two of those one for n20 and the other for regular feed. need some help here thanks

no one else have anything to say. no other opinions ?

i had one for 2 years, then sold it to a friend and he's used it for 3 yrs now....maybe im lucky? it worked for me

i had one for 2 years, then sold it to a friend and he's used it for 3 yrs now....maybe im lucky? it worked for me

i have seen the same and then other have it six months and they go. i dont know what the deal is. what i have seen tho that they last less with people running the pump regulator. don't know why they also say bad ground kills them also. im pretty good with electrical so i think im going to take the risk besides it was free. my cuz told me they last even longer with higher octane being cooler gas.

i just needed more input and if there was any other more streetable external pump in case this one goes. i want to have enough fuel at all times don't want a big boom.

run a large return line too, helps keep the fuel and pump cooler

ok thanks for the tip 8 an or 10 an
i was going to run the set up like this. 10 an to pump, 8an from pump to reg, and 6an from regulator to rail. they told me to run it like like that to keep the pressure up....

thats how mine was with a -10 return

ok good looking out man. imma do it like that why did u go dual intank

I have dual externals now, one on all the time, one on a Hobbs switch

I changed cause I was carb'd blow blow through then but now efi

why not just run a 255 intank and then run a small stand alone cell for the nitrous?

why not just run a 255 intank and then run a small stand alone cell for the nitrous?

Word.

I drove my car 6.5 hours from NC to MD when I bought it with an aeromotive eliminator and sumped tank and never had an issue. I have no controller also its 100% DC. Only disliek is the thing is LOUD.

One thign I have heard is the aeromotive fuel filters have been known to collapse so keep that in mind.

why not just run a 255 intank and then run a small stand alone cell for the nitrous?

don't really like that fuel cell in the front pricy and if u hit that wall its right there. lol iv have see people talking about almost maxing out the 255 with heads and big cams so i didn't really look in to it much after that. the aero motive was a gift. it has maybe 60 to 100 hr of use. if that

I drove my car 6.5 hours from NC to MD when I bought it with an aeromotive eliminator and sumped tank and never had an issue. I have no controller also its 100% DC. Only disliek is the thing is LOUD.

One thign I have heard is the aeromotive fuel filters have been known to collapse so keep that in mind.

ok that's good to know cuz i heard of people not lasting long at all. i thought it might have been an older model or something. the aero filter i knew about. my cuz warned me about it. told me to get another one but i don't remember the name. my cuzin had the pump for several years but then again its a track only car pushed to the line and all that so it get no use.

You can always run a 340 with a hot wire kit. Then do the standalone. You can also build a standalone for a lot cheaper then you can buy one.

You can always run a 340 with a hot wire kit. Then do the standalone. You can also build a standalone for a lot cheaper then you can buy one.

was looking in to those but didn't find much info. also looked at the 400 but not much on them either. im going to give the aeromotive a try and see what happens. iv been looking at a couple people running them with a big return and no pump regulators with good results. up to two years on a daily driven car. so that got me happy ill only drive the car on clear fridays and when ever i go to the track. was thinking about running the cell in the trunk where the ttop hole was. should be a lil cooler right?

That is where I would mount a fuel cell if it were me. Now if I was doing a one gallon for just feeding a nitrous system that would go up front where the battery is.

If you don't want to set the fuel cell back there. Nasty makes a metal bolt in tank for the later year f-bodys that would allow you to use your external fuel pump.

I really think per your earlier post if your not going to shoot anything more than a 200 shot you should be able to pull from the rail (if you have the supply large enough) as long as you mix a bit of race gas in your tank on track days when your going to be spraying.

The best IMO (because I don't like the idea off having to add race gas to my tank, and being able to spray should a situation arise :devil:)really would be just a small standalone for your wet kit with race gas wired to only come on when the nitrous system is armed through the master switch.

There are plenty of guys pulling from the rail only and spraying 300 shots though.

You could spray a 150 on 93 pump. Me personally I wouldn't go higher than that. But I'm still learning so maybe that has something to do with it.

you can build a DIY stand alone fuel cell for around $300.

That is where I would mount a fuel cell if it were me. Now if I was doing a one gallon for just feeding a nitrous system that would go up front where the battery is.

If you don't want to set the fuel cell back there. Nasty makes a metal bolt in tank for the later year f-bodys that would allow you to use your external fuel pump.

I really think per your earlier post if your not going to shoot anything more than a 200 shot you should be able to pull from the rail (if you have the supply large enough) as long as you mix a bit of race gas in your tank on track days when your going to be spraying.

The best IMO (because I don't like the idea off having to add race gas to my tank, and being able to spray should a situation arise :devil:)really would be just a small standalone for your wet kit with race gas wired to only come on when the nitrous system is armed through the master switch.

There are plenty of guys pulling from the rail only and spraying 300 shots though.

You could spray a 150 on 93 pump. Me personally I wouldn't go higher than that. But I'm still learning so maybe that has something to do with it.

good info i have a victor jr wit edelbrock rails a tee for the nitrous at the rail. ill always run at least 5 gal of 110 mix in the tank. i wont be driving it much anyways, so ill have the octane there in case some one wants something on fridays on the way to work. lol i really don't mind putting the race gas in the tank and love the smell :) 150 hit for now and will look in to going bigger later on when i have the new diff.

you can build a DIY stand alone fuel cell for around $300.

maybe even cheaper. i know someone real close to me that welds aluminum that can fab one up, but don't really like the i idea of having it up front. im looking to put my intake tube threw where the batt is located. to put my filter behind the fog light making it a cold air system.

I use a custom aluminum fuel tank 12 gallons in place of the stock fuel tank. I use dual external fuel pumps one of which is on a hobbs switch. Rubber isolated pumps are quiet with no issues of boiling the fuel on the street.

I didn't want anything inside the vehicle or taking up room in the T-Top holder area so this was my only option. On long cruises I do need to keep in mind that I need to make sure I watch my gas level though.

I use a custom aluminum fuel tank 12 gallons in place of the stock fuel tank. I use dual external fuel pumps one of which is on a hobbs switch. Rubber isolated pumps are quiet with no issues of boiling the fuel on the street.

I didn't want anything inside the vehicle or taking up room in the T-Top holder area so this was my only option. On long cruises I do need to keep in mind that I need to make sure I watch my gas level though.

i get ya, but im cutting out the t-top hole rising the floor a lil bit for a lil more weight reduction. so i thought id do the cell there sense its going to be a nice flat area and might put the batt in the hole where people put subs... im using the aeromotive cuz it was a gift and i see its a real good pump. noise is not my worry at all im very tolerant to it. lol i always keep in mind its a street race car that's what convinced me to take out. the ac more comfort the less faster i think imo...

The A1000 is a good pump if it's applied the right way. Heating the gasoline just kills any pump. When the gas gets hot any pump will cavitate where the impeller/gears make contact with the fuel. The faster the pump spins the worse the effect becomes. Most pumps also don't like to pull fuel out of the tank, so any pump mounted externally is going to have even more trouble.

So what makes heat? The pump does, but most of the heat comes from cycling fuel up to the FPR and back to the tank. The bigger the pump the more it does this, and you end up with fuel that's hot, like 120 degrees. Nothing can pump this fuel efficiently, if at all.

If you plumb in the A1000 so it's always primed (feed line comes out the bottom of the tank) it will live much, much longer. If you can't do this I wouldn't use it. You should be OK with one of their 340LPH in-tank pumps.

The A1000 is a good pump if it's applied the right way. Heating the gasoline just kills any pump. When the gas gets hot any pump will cavitate where the impeller/gears make contact with the fuel. The faster the pump spins the worse the effect becomes. Most pumps also don't like to pull fuel out of the tank, so any pump mounted externally is going to have even more trouble.

So what makes heat? The pump does, but most of the heat comes from cycling fuel up to the FPR and back to the tank. The bigger the pump the more it does this, and you end up with fuel that's hot, like 120 degrees. Nothing can pump this fuel efficiently, if at all.

If you plumb in the A1000 so it's always primed (feed line comes out the bottom of the tank) it will live much, much longer. If you can't do this I wouldn't use it. You should be OK with one of their 340LPH in-tank pumps.

yes, I'm getting a fuel cell with the fuel ports that come out from the bottom of the tank so that there's always fuel there for the pump. the reason for running such a pump is cuz i don't like to be swapping and experimenting with things. i get the bigger better one so i have room to grow. and can handle what a i want safely. I'm look in to spraying a 200 250 down the line on my car.