Arthell

iTrader: (1)

Just a question i plan on stick welding together with 309 rod but do I have to use ss vbands or mild steel??

Cam72aro

iTrader: (28)

I used stainless v bands and welded then with a mig welder without any cracking. I did a preheat and post heat and a slow cool down.

95cam86roc

iTrader: (5)

What size vband did you use?

Arthell

iTrader: (1)

Just regular mig wire?

Cam72aro

iTrader: (28)

I used 2.5" v bands and yes, regular mig wire. Look in my build thread in my sig. There are some pictures of them in there. The car runs now and there are no leaks.

9sectruck

iTrader: (9)

same here gas mig pre heat and post heat, still building the car but the welds turned out great, I used the ebay 2.5 vbands

95cam86roc

iTrader: (5)

Cam72aro- I like how do how you modified your manifolds. I might have to do my truck manifolds like that.

Cam72aro

iTrader: (28)

Thanks. I was doing a lot of drinking and some thoughts starting coming into my head, lol. Of course I waited till I was sober to actually do the cutting and welding.

BLWN1

iTrader: (6)

Don't understand the Pre and post heat so I'll research. I'm thinking trucks will clear my C5....

Cam72aro

iTrader: (28)

Pre and post heating help minimize the effects of rapid heating and cooling on the brittle cast iron. If its heated real fast or cooled off quickly it will crack. I use a small torch and bring the temp up slowly and evenly, then slow the cooling process down usually in the oven. I had no problems or cracks.

Bloodbath

i wouldnt be stick welding them if i were you,

elkydragger

iTrader: (7)

truck manifolds here, heated them with a oxy/ace torch till they were turning red, then started to weld. 2.5" mild steel vbands with a gas mig and .035 wire. be sure and put the other side of the vband on it so the flange doesn't warp. i had ground a bevel on the manifolds, then filled it with weld. 2 passes on the outside, and then a single pass inside. i then instantly put the torch back on the manifold and started at the weld and drew the heat down the manifold. do this for about 5min, and then slowly pull the torch away. let them air cool, then i ported the inside smooth. haven't ran them yet, but they are stout!

89ROC-Z

iTrader: (11)

does anyone have a good pic of how to do the drivers side to clear the alternator?

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

www.theturboforums.com

Considerable discussion of the topic, there.

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

My build thread in my sig has a bunch of pics also and of clearing alternator.

BLWN1

iTrader: (6)

Post a link.

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/ls...iron-manifold/

JAX04

iTrader: (17)

1bad03snake

iTrader: (16)

The welders at my refinery are going to weld up my mild steel vbands tomorrow. Ill let you know how they do it and what rod they use.

killernoodle

The factory truck manifolds are not cast iron, they are cast steel. This is evident when you cut them and weld to them. On a band saw or with a drill bit, cast iron tends to make dull grey dust, cast steel will make shiny and sharp shavings.

I have one factory OEM truck manifold that is cast steel, and a replacement (non-oem) truck manifold that is obviously cast iron. The non OEM manifold was a POS to weld and had all kinds of casting flash inside it. The factory manifold was a dream to TIG to stainless vbands with stainless rod.

Pre-heating the part also aids in getting the thick cast steel to puddle on weaker machines. If the part is already at 450-500 degrees, it is easier to get heat in there to weld. Otherwise you'll end up booger welding the flange on and not actually penetrating into the thick manifold because the cold manifold will act like a heatsink. This is more of a problem for MIG machines where you can't really hover on a spot to make sure you get good penetration like you can with a TIG.