Nick Ascencao

Whats up guys,
My block now holds a SCAT 383 Stroker crank with forged rods and pistons. High volume oil pump and everything will clear the stock oil pan! Deck is cut and it is bored .30 over. I have the GM Performance headgaskets going on the block. Sending my cylinder heads out friday to the guys over at AI, gonna get the 190cc treatment with a 1.6 ratio valvetrain, a custom cam and a Double roller timing chain.

After the heads get back i need to port/polish my intake manifold/TB
What injectors should i go with? #36 or #42? I was also going to go with a Grantinelli Fuel pump and a PCMforless tune.

What do you guys think?
goal is 415 (+-) rwhp

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Alot of people dont like HV oil pumps because they can suck the stock pan dry, starving your bearings.

Scat cast cranks arnt as bad as Eagle cast cranks, but still you took a step backwards in strength from stock.

What cam are you going with?

What compression ratio?

Z28Camaro30Ann

iTrader: (15)

For that build, 36# Injectors should do the job. I went with 42# just to be safe.

If I were you, don't waste your time with local shops that charge stupid amounts to port the intake...send it off to Lloyd Elliott. $225 for a full port job with return shipping paid for.

If you go with a bigger fuel pump, plan on using a racetronix hotwire kit.

A PCMForLess tune will be a good BASE TUNE. It should not be used as a permanent one. Do it to get he car running and all, but then do it right and get it dyno and street tuned by someone who knows what they are doing. Mail order tunes are a CLOSE tune, but there are variables with every engine.

I agree that the SCAT crank would not be my choice. I went with a Callies Compstar. Callies may be extra money but after the balancing and everything is done you end up close on price...plus Callies is a better quality and I did not want to risk it on my crankshaft.

Did you have the entire motor balanced before it was assembled? Cranks, Rods, Pistons, Hub, Balancer, etc?

Also, are you SURE it is not hitting the stock pan??? I assembled my motor completely and I could hand turn it all day long...I didnt FEEL any rubbing......if I had LISTENED, I would have heard it scraping the pan...It wasnt until I got the motor running that I could hear it plain as day. I had to get a Moroso Stroker Oil Pan to correct it. You can massage the pan sometimes and get it to clear, but make ABSOLUTELY SURE it clears before you button it all up and have to redo it later. Also I agree with the fact that the high volume pump may starve the motor on a stock pan...hence why the Moroso pan is deeper with a deeper pickup...so you can run an HV pump and not have to worry about it...the LAST thing you want is to go WOT and lose pressure.

Also, what pushrods are you going with?

tonskiguy

iTrader: (3)

Did he say it was a cast crank? I have SCAT forged crank in my 383. I had to "bump out" the pan a bit to clear the forward throw, but it was no big deal. I agree on the oil pump, a new stock pump should be good, Maybe put the White spring in it. I don't know about that Granetelli fuel pump. Horsepower estimate seams a little high, but could be possible with the correct cam / head / tuning combo

xDetroitMetalx

Don't do HV, it will eliminate a lot of question down the road. If you want an upgrade look at:

10554 Oil pump from Melling.

Z28Camaro30Ann

iTrader: (15)

I had 411 RWHP on a H/C/I 357 on LE2's. HP is close if not slightly low if it is an M6. Auto, might be fairly accurate.

He doesn't say whether or not it is a forged or a cast crank, but honestly...anyone who goes through the trouble to build a 383 Stroker and DOESN'T use a forged crank is out of their minds...However, if it is a cast crank, I would stop EXACTLY where I was and get a forged one before it is too late.

Yes you CAN bump out the bottom of the oil pan. I would AT LEAST do that whether there is rubbing or not...Just like tonskiguy said, it is on the front of the pan on the bottom just below the front throw. Better to be safe now than to get it all buttoned up and find out the hard way that it hits...

defaultexistence

iTrader: (11)

Don't use anything but a 10554 melling pump.. Search the subject. Put a better pan on it, use a forged crank. Best advise I can reiterate .

Nick Ascencao

It is a cast SCAT crank with forged rods/pistons. Ill look into that Melling pump and return the other HV pump. However i had my machine shop check the clearence of the stock oil pan to crank and they said it was ok that it was not going to hit.
AI is using a custom cam, they have not gotten back to me on #'s

Car is an M6 with the stock 10 bolt, which eventually i need a Ford 9inch or a Moser 12bolt

Z28Camaro30Ann

iTrader: (15)

What are you planing on spinning the motor for? What is this engine's primary purpose? DO NOT short hand this...if you plan on taking it to the strip even ONCE, what are you going to shift at?

Also, you need to ditch that 10-bolt sooner rather than later...I had 411 RWHP and 390 RWTQ and I broke my 10-Bolt 3 times.

Also, is that M6 built yet? It needs AT LEAST a steel 3-4 shift fork, upgraded keys, blocks, and possible refreshed synchro's. My tranny worked GREAT in my car until I upgraded to the 411 build...within a week, I thrashed the synchro's from 1-2 and 3-4 synchro's...the next week after I had those replaced, I thrashed the 5-6 synchro. I had the 3-4 shift fork upgraded along with everything else and I have had no issues since.

93z383

iTrader: (-1)

Don't even bother touching the intake either bud, that's a big waste of money. The stock LT1 intake is good for 400-500rwhp easy no need to port it. Even the guys running big numbers usually don't port them, and if they do you only pick up 10-20 horse but on a serious build.

Just run the stock intake and open up the holes to 58mm if you want a 58mm throttle body (I recommend for sure on a 383). A 52mm tb will be ok but with such a hungry motor spinning to the moon the more flow the better.

You should DEFINITELY be around 400rwhp or over through a M6 with a custom grind cam and ported heads if it's all done right. your crank is definitely a bad move, but it's not the end of the world if the rest of the motor is done well and balanced. A cast crank just plain out SHOULD NOT be in that build, or any 383 build for that matter, but if it's too late just work with what you've got and don't rev TOO high. With how good custom grinds are these days you can make some big power without having to rev 6500-7k.

My 383 build was done a long time ago, LE2 heads and a CC306 cam. 58mm tb, stock intake bored to 58mm openings, Walbro 255 fuel pump (get a walbro or the racetronics), 39# injectors from Injector Gurus, 1.6 pro mag rockers, all forged Eagle internals & comp cams retainers locks ect, ARP bolts through and through, new GM performance oil pump (not HV), stock pan. A4 700R4 built trans, 3600 stall, built 10 bolt 373 gears. I'm hovering right around the 400rwhp mark N/A, I think your build if finished right should produce a healthy number and be a ton of fun, especially through a M6

Z28Camaro30Ann

iTrader: (15)

A cast crank will be ok for a daily driver or just a sow car, but if there is any intention of spinning above 6K, it needs to be forged...period. If you continue with that cast crank, do not race the car. If you want to race the car, bite the bullet, sell the cast crank and foot the bill for a forged crank.

How much did you spend on the SCAT crank, and what series is it?

93z383

iTrader: (-1)

MY first 383 build I got stuck with a cast crank that the builder cheaped out on without my knowledge - I spun 6500 for 2 years before selling the car without an issue and it ran like a top when sold.

It's hit or miss - while you most definitely should 100% have a forged crank in there, if you don't plan on racing the car constantly or can get a cam in there with a lower power band to keep the R's down a bit, you should be ok. If you have the opportunity before it's too late, swap the crank NOW. But if you can't just work with it accordingly and be careful. Like I said try and get a cam you won't have to spin 6500+with, the tiny hit you'll take on top end power potential will save your *** with that cast crank. If it's a street car you don't need all that top end anyway.

Z28Camaro30Ann

iTrader: (15)

X2

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

I will agree with the person who said do not port the intake, I will go a step further and say the guy who suggestged shipping it to a completely different porter is an idiot because that is begging for port misalignment to have heads and an intake ported by different shops, not matter what shops are involved. If a different shop were to port the intake they need the heads in hand to do so accurately.

There are only a couple 255lph pumps on the market, walbro and chinese, the Walbro has a few variations and both are sold under a LOT of different brands.
Racetronix has a nice kit with all the extras to make the install go well and the nice wiring upgrade.

Your injector decision should be 30 or 36.

You said the deck is cut, How much? If zero the GM Impala gasket that is popular will be too thin.

I would strongly question the competence of your local shop if they were OK with cast crank and HV pump, both were really bad choices, at least you can correct the oilpump easily enough.

Far as the timing chain, you realize pretty much nobody breaks stockers? Everyone loved to put a nice double roller in but they do it based on almost no valid reasoning. IMO you would be a LOT better off to save the money run a stock timing set and waterpump, then spend what you would have on the electric waterpump and get the 200cc heads. Contrary to popular belief the mechanical cools BETTER, the electric is better for an extra .1 at the track but since you are going cast crank 190cc heads it doesn't sound like that extra .1 is that big a deal to you and the 200cc heads might get that for you anyway, and then if you really wanted you could still go back and do the electric pump later without having to go into the engine again.

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

Just get a 7qt moroso pan on it for the HV oil pump....that's what I'm running on my 383.....it looks pretty too

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

I don't think anyone is saying porting the intake is a bad idea. Now mailing the intake off to someone completely different who does not have the heads in hand as one person suggested would be outright stupid.

Some of are suggesting not porting the intake because the gains will be minimal and he could put the money elsewhere for now. Far as the opening for the TB I would just do that myself, doesn't take much. one guy here made 429rwhp with the AI 200cc heads and an as cast intake and based on the year of his car I bet he has a '138 intake which has the smaller trapezoidal ports than the earlier rectangle port intakes

Far as the oilpump, people who don't understand the system get a hardon for high oil pressure. A HV pump puts unnecessary load on the drive gear and simply goes into bypass sooner they are also more likely to cavitate, there are a whole lot of negatives and few potential benefits on a mild street build. Now if someone has a real high HP motor and the bearings are setup loose that can be a different story but for the average street built it will just wear out the drive and go into bypass at a lower rpm recirculating oil within the pump building unnecessary heat.

The Eagle cast cranks in recent years have shown to be pretty brittle, LOTS of documented cases here. Haven't seen so many builds with the Scat cast, haven't seen any recent reports of breakage, and have seen some comparative pictures suggesting the Scat is stronger in the area the Eagles break.

I would ding the stock oilpan and space the stock windage tray so you can retain it. Spend money where it counts when working on a limited budget. If you have deep pockets then yeah go ahead and buy everything new that you can find and try and make miniscule improvements.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Its usually a dead giveaway when someone says "stroker crank, forged rods, forged pistons" and has 8 posts.

Nick Ascencao

havent been on here alot. No real questions until now..

For the last time i have a CAST SCAT crank.. P/N SCA-1-91055on Summit's website.

The crank should be suitable for normal driveability (i.e Daily or weekend driving, going to the track every once and a whiile) As far as the HV oil pump, as i said, im returning the HV oil pump in exchange for the stock pump. The oil pan DOES clear ive checked and rechecked..

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

The thing is WAY too many people do exactly as you have and ask the questions too late. Most of us would rather help you get it right than tell you what you are doing wrong.

The continued comments about the HV pump are due to some individuals continuing to recommend them.

Nick Ascencao

The rotating assembly IS balanced in the short block also. I will be assembling the heads to the block when they return from AI. My machinest will then port match the intake runners on the intake manifold to the cylinder head along with a bigger TB opening.
The #36 injectors should do the job along with the Racetronix fuel pump.

The M6 i have is stock and not built, yet. The Rear end will be done soon enough, i need to get the car in running condition and then move forward with the build (i.e subframe connectors, rear end/gears, suspention, brakes,etc)