Any idea what this broken piece is? Lifter internal maybe? Stumped...
08-03-2012, 04:12 PM
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Any idea what this broken piece is? Lifter internal maybe? Stumped... Hi everyone,
I recently purchased a Vette with an LS2 stroked out to a 402. It has the following upgrades:
402 LS2 Stroker
Diamond Forged Pistons
Callies Compstar Rods
Eagle Forged Crank
11:1 Compression
ARP Hardware Throughout
TSP Texas Giant Cam - 248/254/.611/.611/113LSA
TSP Hardened Pushrods
LS7 lifters
MTI Ported 241 Casting Heads
Ferrea Stainless Valves
Ferrera Valve Springs
Yella Terra Ultra Light Roller Rockers
The car had low oil pressure (25psi at idle and 35psi at 3500 rpm), so we assumed it had the notorious pinched o-ring at the oil pump pick up. So, we pulled the engine oil pan. In the oil pan, I found the piece of hardened steel as shown below. Does anyone know what this is from? Even our machine shop wasn't sure...but we are thinking it's part of the inside of one of the LS7 lifters. Any ideas?
I recently purchased a Vette with an LS2 stroked out to a 402. It has the following upgrades:
402 LS2 Stroker
Diamond Forged Pistons
Callies Compstar Rods
Eagle Forged Crank
11:1 Compression
ARP Hardware Throughout
TSP Texas Giant Cam - 248/254/.611/.611/113LSA
TSP Hardened Pushrods
LS7 lifters
MTI Ported 241 Casting Heads
Ferrea Stainless Valves
Ferrera Valve Springs
Yella Terra Ultra Light Roller Rockers
The car had low oil pressure (25psi at idle and 35psi at 3500 rpm), so we assumed it had the notorious pinched o-ring at the oil pump pick up. So, we pulled the engine oil pan. In the oil pan, I found the piece of hardened steel as shown below. Does anyone know what this is from? Even our machine shop wasn't sure...but we are thinking it's part of the inside of one of the LS7 lifters. Any ideas?
08-03-2012, 05:09 PM
#2
Hi everyone,
I recently purchased a Vette with an LS2 stroked out to a 402. It has the following upgrades:
402 LS2 Stroker
Diamond Forged Pistons
Callies Compstar Rods
Eagle Forged Crank
11:1 Compression
ARP Hardware Throughout
TSP Texas Giant Cam - 248/254/.611/.611/113LSA
TSP Hardened Pushrods
LS7 lifters
MTI Ported 241 Casting Heads
Ferrea Stainless Valves
Ferrera Valve Springs
Yella Terra Ultra Light Roller Rockers
The car had low oil pressure (25psi at idle and 35psi at 3500 rpm), so we assumed it had the notorious pinched o-ring at the oil pump pick up. So, we pulled the engine oil pan. In the oil pan, I found the piece of hardened steel as shown below. Does anyone know what this is from? Even our machine shop wasn't sure...but we are thinking it's part of the inside of one of the LS7 lifters. Any ideas?
I recently purchased a Vette with an LS2 stroked out to a 402. It has the following upgrades:
402 LS2 Stroker
Diamond Forged Pistons
Callies Compstar Rods
Eagle Forged Crank
11:1 Compression
ARP Hardware Throughout
TSP Texas Giant Cam - 248/254/.611/.611/113LSA
TSP Hardened Pushrods
LS7 lifters
MTI Ported 241 Casting Heads
Ferrea Stainless Valves
Ferrera Valve Springs
Yella Terra Ultra Light Roller Rockers
The car had low oil pressure (25psi at idle and 35psi at 3500 rpm), so we assumed it had the notorious pinched o-ring at the oil pump pick up. So, we pulled the engine oil pan. In the oil pan, I found the piece of hardened steel as shown below. Does anyone know what this is from? Even our machine shop wasn't sure...but we are thinking it's part of the inside of one of the LS7 lifters. Any ideas?
08-03-2012, 07:46 PM
#3
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
Looks kinda like the pin in the front of a camshaft?
08-05-2012, 07:21 PM
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UPDATE:
After starting the tear down on the front end of the engine (timing chain area), I found out from the previous owner that a rocker arm had exploded in the past. So, it appears that this was a piece of the roller on the rocker arms.
But, our tear down of the front end of the engine was not in vain. While we were in there, we also found/did the following:
1. The car had a stock LS2 timing chain, which we are upgrading to the Katech style C5R timing chain which has no master link. The LS2 chain currently on the car has some slack, so it's good that we found this out now rather than later!
2. There is no timing chain tensioner, so we are going to install a LS2 tensioner since they seem to have a slightly better reputation and less reports of failure than the LS3 tensioner.
3. The car already has a TSP high pressure/stock volume oil pump, but I'm going to put a new one on it while we are in there just in case the slightly low oil pressure has something to do with it. We will also re-replace the oil pump pick up gasket with the correct color o-ring for the TSP pump.
4. The stock rubber power steering bushing was split, so we are installing an aluminum Doug Rippie bushing (assuming it doesn't give off any chassis noise, which I'm still researching...otherwise we'll use their Delrin version.)
5. The crank pulley is a non-dampened ASP model which had the puller threads stripped out, so we are upgrading it to a 25%/10% ATI Super Damper. The car has a 1000rpm idle due to the giant camshaft, so the underdrive amount on it won't be a big deal in regard to charging.
6. The car has an ARP crank pulley bolt, which is good. However, it only had about 20 ft/lb torque on it and easily broke loose with no effort! So, we will clean the threads, apply red loctite, and reinstall with the ARP bolt spec ~250 ft/lb.
7. We will change the front main crank seal since it came with the timing gasket set we got from Felpro. We will also probably install a new water pump so EVERYTHING else behind the timing cover is being done and we hopefully won't have to go back in there for a while!
Thanks to everyone here for their advice on what the mystery part we found in the oil pan might be, which let us to disassemble the timing cover area and thus find all of these other things! Given the issues we found here, we may go ahead and pull the valve covers and inspect the valvetrain for proper torque specs and clearances just to be on the safe side...
Not to hi-jack my own thread, but now that the original issue seems to be resolved, if anyone has any thoughts, advice, or experiences about the seven things I mentioned in this post, please feel free to post about it so we can discuss. I've done a good bit of research on the 'best' upgrades and fixes for the things I posted, but any other ideas or comments are ALWAYS welcome! Thanks.
UPDATE:
After starting the tear down on the front end of the engine (timing chain area), I found out from the previous owner that a rocker arm had exploded in the past. So, it appears that this was a piece of the roller on the rocker arms.
But, our tear down of the front end of the engine was not in vain. While we were in there, we also found/did the following:
1. The car had a stock LS2 timing chain, which we are upgrading to the Katech style C5R timing chain which has no master link. The LS2 chain currently on the car has some slack, so it's good that we found this out now rather than later!
2. There is no timing chain tensioner, so we are going to install a LS2 tensioner since they seem to have a slightly better reputation and less reports of failure than the LS3 tensioner.
3. The car already has a TSP high pressure/stock volume oil pump, but I'm going to put a new one on it while we are in there just in case the slightly low oil pressure has something to do with it. We will also re-replace the oil pump pick up gasket with the correct color o-ring for the TSP pump.
4. The stock rubber power steering bushing was split, so we are installing an aluminum Doug Rippie bushing (assuming it doesn't give off any chassis noise, which I'm still researching...otherwise we'll use their Delrin version.)
5. The crank pulley is a non-dampened ASP model which had the puller threads stripped out, so we are upgrading it to a 25%/10% ATI Super Damper. The car has a 1000rpm idle due to the giant camshaft, so the underdrive amount on it won't be a big deal in regard to charging.
6. The car has an ARP crank pulley bolt, which is good. However, it only had about 20 ft/lb torque on it and easily broke loose with no effort! So, we will clean the threads, apply red loctite, and reinstall with the ARP bolt spec ~250 ft/lb.
7. We will change the front main crank seal since it came with the timing gasket set we got from Felpro. We will also probably install a new water pump so EVERYTHING else behind the timing cover is being done and we hopefully won't have to go back in there for a while!
Thanks to everyone here for their advice on what the mystery part we found in the oil pan might be, which let us to disassemble the timing cover area and thus find all of these other things! Given the issues we found here, we may go ahead and pull the valve covers and inspect the valvetrain for proper torque specs and clearances just to be on the safe side...
Not to hi-jack my own thread, but now that the original issue seems to be resolved, if anyone has any thoughts, advice, or experiences about the seven things I mentioned in this post, please feel free to post about it so we can discuss. I've done a good bit of research on the 'best' upgrades and fixes for the things I posted, but any other ideas or comments are ALWAYS welcome! Thanks.
