View Full Version : M6 ET streets suck


Mustang Hat'r 2
08-03-2012, 10:49 PM
I have an M6 cam only car with a 430 gear, I have 275 50R 15 ET streets and they suck. 2.06 is the best I can do and got warned again for ripping the rubber of the track. I did better on 17inch nitto's

What 27 inch tire will dead hook? I only do about 3k miles of street driving per year its about 80% track car. I have a bigger cam and 100 shot to go on the car still.
Jay

bfurches
08-03-2012, 11:07 PM
The ET is an incredible tire.

What are you doing for a burnout? what type of clutch are you using? how are you launching the car? is it hopping or blowing the tires? Whats the rear suspension?

The fastest radial cars in the country run that tire (with a little more sidewall).

However, being MT and if you don't class race and are not restricted to a specific size or type, an actual slick may be up your alley.

...but as far as a radial goes....it's not going to get any better then what you are already working with. Look elsewhere first...

agenthol302
08-03-2012, 11:17 PM
The ET is an incredible tire.

What are you doing for a burnout? what type of clutch are you using? how are you launching the car? is it hopping or blowing the tires? Whats the rear suspension?

The fastest radial cars in the country run that tire (with a little more sidewall).

However, being MT and if you don't class race and are not restricted to a specific size or type, an actual slick may be up your alley.

...but as far as a radial goes....it's not going to get any better then what you are already working with. Look elsewhere first...

this. we need more info on the car (i know u said cam but im guessinjg u did a little more then just a cam and left everything else alone), any vids? how new are the tires

Mustang Hat'r 2
08-04-2012, 12:16 AM
I roll the cluth out hard and I've tried dropping it from any where from 4-6k bog or blow the tires up. Mcload twing disc, built t56, 9 inch. No front sway bar, strange coil overs up front set pretty loose, Hals in the back set pretty loose, umi body mount torque arm, UMI control arms. I get some pretty heavy weight transfer with alittle body roll if I hammer it at 10 miles an hour or so. Its the hit of the tire. 2nd gear burn out and I get them hot. I've also tried just doing a quick clean off, hardly any smoke. PSI as low as 15. Still not working. I know I need a 27inch tire min, maybe a 28. New cam and spray I should trap around 127 or so.

Mustang Hat'r 2
08-04-2012, 12:17 AM
I'll run a DOT style slick I really dont care. But it does see the street and some cops are ass's around here.

42273
08-04-2012, 12:21 AM
the tires work best if you dont shock them , my brother has a auto car and will blow them loose when he flashes the stall but hooks like glue if he stands on the converter . so i think you still have to slip the clutch.

Mustang Hat'r 2
08-04-2012, 12:30 AM
My old TA would cut 1.60s all day long on the same tire but on a 16 inch rim, drop the clutch when the shift light cam on. Maybe the tires are just shot, they were on my old auto TA I bought but have no idea of their age.

nastychevelle
08-04-2012, 12:57 AM
Try the hoosier radial, i've heard the sidewalls are a little softer so they are more forgiving on the M6 cars.

BriancWS6
08-04-2012, 01:46 AM
I ran 17" ET Streets and they hooked like a bitch! Pulled the front tires with my relatively mild setup with stock shocks/springs and at full weight!

98TADRIVER
08-04-2012, 09:50 AM
get some video of your passes so we can analyze

bfurches
08-04-2012, 07:45 PM
I roll the cluth out hard and I've tried dropping it from any where from 4-6k bog or blow the tires up. Mcload twing disc, built t56, 9 inch. No front sway bar, strange coil overs up front set pretty loose, Hals in the back set pretty loose, umi body mount torque arm, UMI control arms. I get some pretty heavy weight transfer with alittle body roll if I hammer it at 10 miles an hour or so. Its the hit of the tire. 2nd gear burn out and I get them hot. I've also tried just doing a quick clean off, hardly any smoke. PSI as low as 15. Still not working. I know I need a 27inch tire min, maybe a 28. New cam and spray I should trap around 127 or so.

This is all just my opinion....

I feel that for the amount of gear you are running, paired with the 27" tire is making it difficult to get out of the gate. Like mentioned before, that tire doesn't want to be shocked by the clutch. In order to get that thing out of the gate you are really going to have to slip the clutch and burn it up a little.

Stepping to a 28" tall tire will help knock down a little bit of that gear, and it will give you a little more sidewall to take the hit....but key is going to be how you come out.

Mustang Hat'r 2
08-04-2012, 08:49 PM
I have a 26 inch tire now, I had 4.11 but just bumped them to 4.30. Sold a 9 and got talked into swapping third members. I need a true 28 inch tire, N20 is going on the car really soon.

What tire should I get a 27 will get me 125 @ 6700? If I get a 28 it will be less RPM but I dont want to hack the car up, I'll cut the bump stop off but rolling the fenders etc not cool with that. I have MT sportmans up front, skinnies can I mix these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOO-17500/
Those are the tires, i'm thinking about getting opinions?

1mean96ss
08-05-2012, 10:43 AM
Hoosier QTP 27x10.5 dead hooks on the street, atleast they do for me and mine are set at 18psi

Higgs Boson
08-05-2012, 10:53 AM
15 inch et streets are bias plys or radials?

with a stick you want bias plys to absorb the clutch shock. if you are bogging, have you thought about adding power?

i have run both, found best results with et streets at 15 psi for a slight amount of spin (maybe two turns to save drivetrain on street car) and around 22 psi with et street radials.

Mustang Hat'r 2
08-05-2012, 11:14 AM
3500-4000 dump is a bog any high and I blow them up and just feather the throttle. It has the street radial version. Those 27 inch tires I have picked above are they good enough???

Mustang Hat'r 2
08-05-2012, 01:29 PM
I have one set of rear rims. The QTP going to be ok? Its basically a slick with little slits in it.

Mustang Hat'r 2
08-06-2012, 05:41 PM
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOO-17601/ will this tire rub or require the fender lips to be roller? another option is this 27.6 for diameter
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MTT-3754/
thanks
Jay

JL ws-6
08-06-2012, 05:55 PM
That hoosier 28x11.5 is going to be very close, if there's a 10.5 inch wide version of it, get those, they will be a little easier to fit in the car (less beatign on the front lower inner fender)

blue99fbody
08-06-2012, 06:08 PM
like stated before radials suck on a m6 bias ply is the way to go. and i would just roll the fenders and get the tire you want under there you will never know they have been rolled if done right

aQuickLS1
08-06-2012, 06:09 PM
I didnt realize he was running ET Street radials. I guess i should have paid more attention to the tire size he listed. Makes more since now.

studderin
08-06-2012, 07:06 PM
jay, whats shocks do you have?
Ive been running thouse tires only for about a year now, takes some work but cut some 1.4s at that track.

studderin
08-06-2012, 07:12 PM
try more Psi
are the rear shocks DA, you really need them for TA. put them at or close to full stiff comp, and full loose rebound.and adjust them form there. watch of the rim pushing the tire into the pavement, and the body not down on the wheel( gap)

you need to get the IC aggressive, no high and far out setup, at the 28x10.5 ETdrags will work with m6 guys use. This is what sucks, you can't set it up and it repeats easy, but you need to slip the clutch. This is hard to do and get right, you think you might be but its alot harder then then you think, and its a hit or miss this.
If you get the car working right you can be leaving at 5700-6200 were you have alot more power, and not worry about the bog thing pulling the motor down under 5K. thats what gets a good 60 on DR

BrianSF-GA
08-06-2012, 07:46 PM
15 inch et streets are bias plys or radials?

with a stick you want bias plys to absorb the clutch shock. if you are bogging, have you thought about adding power?

i have run both, found best results with et streets at 15 psi for a slight amount of spin (maybe two turns to save drivetrain on street car) and around 22 psi with et street radials.

Radial and a stick don't work together at all.... This has been covered multiple times. Run them on the street for a good traction street tire but for teach use put a full slick on and be done with it.

That hoosier 28x11.5 is going to be very close, if there's a 10.5 inch wide version of it, get those, they will be a little easier to fit in the car (less beatign on the front lower inner fender)

like stated before radials suck on a m6 bias ply is the way to go. and i would just roll the fenders and get the tire you want under there you will never know they have been rolled if done right

try more Psi
are the rear shocks DA, you really need them for TA. put them at or close to full stiff comp, and full loose rebound.and adjust them form there. watch of the rim pushing the tire into the pavement, and the body not down on the wheel( gap)

you need to get the IC aggressive, no high and far out setup, at the 28x10.5 ETdrags will work with m6 guys use. This is what sucks, you can't set it up and it repeats easy, but you need to slip the clutch. This is hard to do and get right, you think you might be but its alot harder then then you think, and its a hit or miss this.
If you get the car working right you can be leaving at 5700-6200 were you have alot more power, and not worry about the bog thing pulling the motor down under 5K. thats what gets a good 60 on DR

^^^^ .... all of these.

27x11.5 QTP's, full weight, full rear suspension and cutting 1.66x's here ... decent launches at 4500 with some spin but not blowing them off with stock front shocks (they seem to be unloading the rear a bit) .... am in the process of installing front DA's and sway delete and will be moving the launch up to 5000.... a few more shake down passes and will probably switch to 28x10.5 ET Drags. Searching for those 6/10 second passes in good DA.

Head to my Youtube channel for most of my passes .... http://www.youtube.com/user/BrianSFGA/videos .... the car is a work in progress.

Mustang Hat'r 2
08-06-2012, 09:39 PM
I have single adjustable hals in the back, and strange coil overs in the front, all are set on the loose side. John I know you run up there and the track is not the greatest. I'm going to get the ET streets 27.6 inch tire, and start playing with the suspension and launch technique. My old TA I had the 26 inch ET streets on it and pulled 1.60's all day long launching of the shift light. The fact its a radial tire seems to be the biggest issue with my car.

JL ws-6
08-06-2012, 10:00 PM
If your track prep is anything short of fantastic you already have 2 strikes against you. One thing I learned when trying radials a long time ago.. if the prep isn't there to support them, you are going to have a bad day. Combine that with a stick car, and you can scratch any thoughts of having a car that will consistantly do anything other, then give you a headache.

Put a bias ply on there, anything that's bias ply that's the height you need for your gear ratio requirements, and I am 100% that you will be a ton happier. Put a 2 step in the car, set it, floor it and dump that clutch. If the driveline doesn't go BANG, hang on and be ready to pull the next gear quick it won't take long :)

Mustang Hat'r 2
08-06-2012, 10:33 PM
I got a built 9, built t-56, mcload twin disc and a PST shaft. It should hold

studderin
08-07-2012, 08:58 AM
the tires you have now are 26 DR, right? why did you get them over the 275/60s (thats what I thought you had at 1st) your getting the et street (DOT slick) in the 27.6 because that's all they make? or you want a tire for gearing? for traction Id run the taller tire with more sidewall. rolling the fenders is nothing, I think you don't want trim the bumper cover in the back. But thats not a big deal either, its just the rear bottom inside and the tire will close and look to fit it really well. You only notice looking under the car, or from under the tail pipe area under the car looking back.
I think you have 4.30 gears? I ran them in 2008-10 and on 28 went 128s fine fyi. Another thins is I don't think you need to trim the bumper at all to run the 28 radials, they don't grow like a bias tire. So you would just have to center the rear end, in the wheel wells and it should be fine to run 275/60/15s. Someone correct me on that? But a bais ply is gona be alot better. Id look at the QTPs for street driving and track, that's about the best tire your gona get to to that. I would get them in 28' and trim the car for them, then will grow but thats gona be better for you to spray too. I think you would get the 28x11.5 or somthing like thats the size them for a 28 x 10wide tread. Going to that tire is gona help alot for you. Or get alot better DA shocks, and spend alot of time getting it to work on DR. I don't know about DR, but noticed the window is super small for them liking the track. ETdrags you can keep them the same PSI, shock, everything form morning to night. (Do your 1st burnout good, then it really dosnt matter, for traction adjustent) If anything I only change the tire PSI (add) to get some more wheel speed, and change the front shocks for how the bouncy is for the airdamn hitting the 60' timmers.
DR you need DA shock, and have a 2 click each way shock window for the track temp, (I dont no this that well how to change for, But noticed it is there) If if gets warmer a little. And at night when it gets cold, they want a different psi, and shock.
But 28 slicks the side wall just works with all of that people just don't know how much till they start running DR alot. I think If I put slicks back out I know alot more now?


The 2step thing dose help, for cutting light, and racing in heads up class its a must. But I think I was actually more consistent WITHOUT it for 60's. Heres why, with the 2step you hold it WOT, then let off the clutch. thats better for cutting lights racing on a pro tree, heads up stuff. But without it I would take my time more, it would be easy TnT passes, roll in last and to even try to cut a light and sit there some times even. And you bring the rpms to 4500-5500 or whatever. To do that clutch pushed in you only need to be at very little throttle. Stock 75mm or a 90+ TB when you think about it its maybe 1/4 throttle, maybe 1/2, nowear close to WOT. Its alot quieter, and smoother. So your way better on you letting the clutch out slower and smoother. You can hear and feel the car and the tires better and make the natural adjustments in "launching". AND you doing this not at WOT so your starting to let the clutch out with a LOT less power Not sure I this but I bet a 415whp cam only car at whatever.. 1/2 throttle, at 5K making 50-75 less hp then WOT 6500. So even when your not "on the 2step" and the normal launch way you do it. You right foot has 50-75 hp to adding you do smoothly not even thinking about it, 1-3 secs about you leave.
On the 2step its... clutch in, WOT...(rev) waiting the leave...(4700,4750,4700,4750)... "Grrrrr,Nn,Nn,Nn,Nn" BAM! + 75hp instant you get off the clutch switch, WHILE you (think) your doing a good job and letting the clutch out smooth and progressive.

Mustang Hat'r 2
08-07-2012, 03:46 PM
The tires came on one of my other cars I parted out, all ready mounted on racestars. I'll give the QTP's a shot and get the 28inch size. I'll just have to look up how to roll the fenders I have adjustable control arms I can put on the car to help out. Stock panhard bar but the car is not lowered. Hoping ill be back there in the next few weeks to start testing this out.

25thhawk
08-07-2012, 06:14 PM
With a 4.30 gear you are gonna need a 28" tire to trap the 127 that you think it can. My car with 430's and 26" et drag stiffs traps 119 @ 6400. You gotta watch the sidewall using QTP's or ET streets. M6 cars hit the tires real hard and the stiff sidewall tires tend to do better. Make sure you dont have a POS cast yoke on that driveshaft or that is gonna go BOOM. Alot of guys buy the PST shaft thinking its good for X amount of horsepower and dont get the CM yoke too.

Ryan

Gary Z
08-07-2012, 08:15 PM
Bias-ply and radial-ply tires behave quite differently. Some people reading this thread may get confused because Mickey Thompson uses the name “ET Street” to identify both types of DOT-approved drag tires. And although MT uses the names “ET Street” and “ET Street Radial” to distinguish between the two, the distinction often gets lost.

Mustang Hat'r 2
08-07-2012, 09:19 PM
True I have the Radial version plus a M6 just doesnt work for me. Maybe if I tweaked the suspension etc they may be better but I need a 28 inch tire either way so i'm going for the best I can get. If I pull 1.60's on the bottle I'll be happy should get me booted off the track then I'll have to stick the rollbar in it.

armyboyatc
08-08-2012, 10:26 AM
Not sure if it's been said but I run M&H racemaster bias ply tires and I love em.

94 s dime
08-09-2012, 10:20 PM
Bias ply for a stick radial for an auto.

midwestjunk
08-13-2012, 03:14 PM
I have ran a 28 tall 275/60/15 M/T drag radial before with M6 and could not get them to hook. something like 1.8 60fts. i switched to a 28x10.50 hoosier slick and went 1.40 60ft. drag radials do not work well with stick cars that have a race type clutch that is all or nothing. it shocks the tire real hard and theres no sidewall give like a bias ply would. once on the slick i could leave at 6,100rpm. light tire spin but carried the front wheels out a car length or 2.

studderin
08-13-2012, 07:20 PM
been 1.47s on 275 MT DR, you can get them to work

Mustang Hat'r 2
08-14-2012, 12:08 AM
There too small, I need 28 inch tire. Looks like I'm screwed for the season anyways. Going to strip the car down and trailer it next year.

Ballzee
08-14-2012, 04:43 PM
bia ply all the way....

Gary Z
08-14-2012, 10:22 PM
been 1.47s on 275 MT DR, you can get them to workStudderin’s post #28 above explains how but it is not all easy to read. This post seemed so valuable that I put some effort into making sure I understood what he is telling us. For me, this required some changes. I should have asked his permission to do what I am doing and hope he’ll forgive me. I may have introduced meaning with which he does not agree. If so, I apologize also for that.

-Gary Smith, Berkeley, CA

***************** Studderin #28 – unauthorized edit *******************

I think you have 4.30 gears? I ran 4.30s in 2008-10 and on 28 slicks went 1.28x 60s FYI. Another thing is I don't think you need to trim the bumper at all to run the 28 radials, they don't grow like a bias tire. So you would just have to center the rear end and it should be fine to run 275/60/15s. Can someone correct me on that? But a bias-ply is gonna be a lot better. I’d look at Hoosier QTPs for street driving and track; that's about the best tire you’ll find for that. I would get them in 28' and trim the car for them. They will grow but thats gonna be better for you to spray too. I think you would get the 28x11.5 - thats the size for a 28 x 10wide tread. Going to that tire will help you a lot.

Or get better DA shocks and spend alot of time getting everything to work on DRs. I don't know all about DRs but noticed the window is super small for them liking the track. For DRs you need DA shock, and have a 2-click each way shock window for track temp. I don’t know how to adjust the shocks for that, but noticed they need adjustment if it gets a little warmer. And at night when it gets cold, they want a different psi, and shock adjustment. But with 28 slicks the sidewall just works with all of that. Slicks are less sensitive than DRs. People just don't know how much till they start running DRs a lot.

ETdrags (bias-ply slicks) you can keep them the same PSI, same shock adjustment, everything from morning to night. Do your 1st burnout good, then it really doesn’t matter for traction adjustment. If anything I only change the tire PSI (add) to get some more wheel spin. And change the front shocks for how bouncy it is for the air dam hitting the 60' timers.

The 2-step does help for cutting lights, and racing in any heads-up class it is a must. But I think I was actually more consistent WITHOUT it for 60s - here’s why. With the 2-step you hold it WOT, then let off the clutch. That’s better for cutting lights racing on a pro tree, heads up stuff. But without the 2-step I would take my time more. For easy TnT passes, roll in last and to don’t try to cut a light, even sit there some times. And you bring the rpms to 4500-5500 or whatever. To do that clutch pushed in you only need to be at very little throttle. Stock 75mm or a 90+ TB when you think about it its maybe 1/4 throttle, maybe 1/2, nowhere near WOT. It’s a lot quieter and smoother. So you’re way better at letting the clutch out slower and smoother. You can hear and feel the car and the tires better and make the natural adjustments in "launching". AND you’re not doing this at WOT so you’re starting to let the clutch out with a LOT less power. Not sure about this but I bet a 415whp cam only car at whatever.. 1/2 throttle, at 5K making 50-75 less hp then WOT 6500. So even when your not "on the 2step" and the normal launch way you do it. You right foot has 50-75 hp to adding you do smoothly not even thinking about it, 1-3 secs about you leave.

On the 2step its... clutch in, WOT...(rev) waiting to leave …(4700,4750,4700,4750)... "Grrrrr,Nn,Nn,Nn,Nn" BAM! +75 hp the instant you get off the clutch switch, WHILE you (think) your doing a good job and letting the clutch out smooth and progressive. Most likely, you’re not.

***************** Studderin #28 – end unauthorized edit *******************

1999FirehawkLS1
08-14-2012, 10:44 PM
Ive Call MT everytime before I buy tires to check n make sure the tire im looking into is right for my set up, This is what they say everytime and there always right dead on....

1. A M6 Car, Radial ET Street w a Stick Car wont wrk (Keep in mind this may just be on there Brand) Always run a Full Slick. ( I prefer a stiff side wall slick)

2. For a Auto Car, even w a Trans Brake you can run either or. Ive Run a full slick and a Radial, currently in my sig pic Im running there NEW Pro Et Radial and Im telling ya it hits just as hard if not harder than a ful slick.

Id always call what ever brand of tires your thinking about running and chck w them before buying.

ski23
08-16-2012, 04:47 PM
Im currently running 26x10x15S MT ET Drags. Ive tried several other tires and these just work for my M6 car. I leave at 5800-6000 and getting consistant low 1.5x 60'.

Mustang Hat'r 2
10-21-2012, 10:08 PM
I got the 28 inch QTP and still blowing this f-ers up.
I have the front and rears set really loose but I just hit the tire to hard and they break loose. 1.92 is the best i've done doing a 3500 dump and bog. I havent had a ton of seat time 5 runs and there all 1.90's, I just have semi controled spin with them dumping at 6k and feathering the gas. PSI is been as low as 14.5 still ripping them up.

Getting tired of it ready to go auto and give up on the dual purpose car.

ren987
10-21-2012, 10:28 PM
you could try putting some tubes in them to stiffen them up. Other wise just get some slicks and bolt them on when you get to the track. Thats what I did for years, never liked the et streets even had 28x11.50's and couldn't get them to work near as well. If you really tried slipping the clutch I bet your 60's would improve but I really don't care much for doing that...

25thhawk
10-21-2012, 10:44 PM
check the angle on your lca's. If you have too much its gonna smash the rim into the ground and then unload the tire. You want to be around 2 degrees down to the rearend at ride height. If thats ok, you might need to adjust the torque arm to get a better IC.

2 Stroke Racer
10-21-2012, 10:56 PM
Gotta keep playin with the shocks. That and your clutch dump.
I was at empire today with my M6 camaro and et streets cutting
1.4 60' all day long. Don't give up yet. You'll be surprised what
A couple clicks can do. Do you have any video of your launches?

Iceman02
10-21-2012, 11:34 PM
I'm with you on this bud. I tried all year to make 275/60/15 MT drag radials hook. I've found someone with an automatic to buy them so I can put on a slick and let the car run like it wants to. My best 60ft has been a 1.92 with the best track prep it's seen all year and great weather.
I learned my lesson with drag radials. Keep them on automatic cars. I don't want to spend all my time at the track dicking around with six thousand little tricks to maybe cut a 1.7. I'd rather launch hard consistently and perfect my skills getting the car down the track and run some nice times. Nothing more frustrating than running an 11 second car in the 12's because of a junky launch.

Mustang Hat'r 2
10-21-2012, 11:38 PM
I got the 28 inch QTP and still blowing these f-ers up. I dont have drag radials any more, I have basicaly a slick on the car.
Jay

Mustang Hat'r 2
10-21-2012, 11:54 PM
Gotta keep playin with the shocks. That and your clutch dump.
I was at empire today with my M6 camaro and et streets cutting
1.4 60' all day long. Don't give up yet. You'll be surprised what
A couple clicks can do. Do you have any video of your launches?

What type of set up do you have? Call me crazy but I swear its my body mount torque are giving me these issue. I'm working on loading my vid's from today and last week. They might be worthless, there kind of far back

2 Stroke Racer
10-22-2012, 12:14 AM
What type of set up do you have? Call me crazy but I swear its my body mount torque are giving me these issue. I'm working on loading my vid's from today and last week. They might be worthless, there kind of far back


Were you at the track today? I had the black SS. I was there with
Studderin. My build thread- http://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racing-tech/1587360-my-98-ss-4-month-build-thread.html

Mustang Hat'r 2
10-22-2012, 12:17 AM
I was there left when they dumped oil on the track again about 4, I was in the white 98z28. Lots of cars today. I know john, wish I would have seen you guys we could have BSed about cars for a little while.

2 Stroke Racer
10-22-2012, 12:25 AM
I was there left when they dumped oil on the track again about 4, I was in the white 98z28. Lots of cars today. I know john, wish I would have seen you guys we could have BSed about cars for a little while.


For sure. Johnny helped me alot with getting my susp set up.
We dialed it in last week at the LSX shootout in Indy.
Cut consistent 1.4 60''s all day today at empire.

Mustang Hat'r 2
10-22-2012, 12:38 AM
Last 4 runs of the year. 2 are 1/8th mile runs from last week and 2 are 1/4 runs from this week

http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb406/bigjay187/th_10-212.jpg (http://s1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb406/bigjay187/?action=view&current=10-212.mp4)
http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb406/bigjay187/th_10-142.jpg (http://s1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb406/bigjay187/?action=view&current=10-142.mp4)
http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb406/bigjay187/th_10-21.jpg (http://s1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb406/bigjay187/?action=view&current=10-21.mp4)
http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb406/bigjay187/th_10-14.jpg (http://s1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb406/bigjay187/?action=view&current=10-14.mp4)

studderin
10-22-2012, 01:18 AM
damn I walked right buy your car today and looked at it a bit. I did some changes on that red m6 GTO that was next to you. I didn't know you had that car now.

Mustang Hat'r 2
10-22-2012, 10:02 AM
Picked it up in cali earlier this year, been racing on and off all year with it. I saw the owner he kept giving me looks but didnt walk over. It runs okay, puting a 6 point in it and 408 over the winter or early spring.

Looking at the vids the front end seems to move around pretty good. I've been thinking about this, if the front lifts the first few inches really easy then when the front end actually comes off the ground, wouldnt the weight being increased so dramaticly cause the ass end to deload? If its not that it would have to do with the drive line angle pinion is -1.5. I have strange single coil overs up front and QAL one single in the back, body mount toque arm, adjustable control arms and pan hard bar. Got any idea's?

nocooler
10-22-2012, 10:23 AM
Your video's don't help a whole lot. It's hard to see whats going on.

You say you have the shocks loose in the front and back.

My guess is - the rear shocks need tightened, start halfway up. This will help slow down the hit to the tire, and allow transfer.

Depending where the torque arm is - it might need moved down, and the lower control arms will need to be played with to control the anti squat.

It'll take awhile to get it sorted out - different car/drivers/tracks like different things. Once you get the instant center and anti squat sorted out - you can fine tune it with the shocks.

Mustang Hat'r 2
10-22-2012, 10:31 AM
Thats a lot of stuff tossed at me where should I start? Can I do any of this playing on the street to get an idea?

flintwrench69
10-22-2012, 10:49 PM
Bias-ply and radial-ply tires behave quite differently. Some people reading this thread may get confused because Mickey Thompson uses the name “ET Street” to identify both types of DOT-approved drag tires. And although MT uses the names “ET Street” and “ET Street Radial” to distinguish between the two, the distinction often gets lost.

I have ran both ET street radials(275 40 17) & currently running 26 11.5 15 ET bias & I got a better 60(1.61) on the radials on a stock wheel(heavy ass chrome zr1s) compared to 1.63 on the bias. I leave the line on the 2 step at 55-5800 with 13-15 psi on either one for best results. Still my 60 times are a lot more consistent with the bias tire. Decent for running Bilsteins but next year am going with ET Drags.

Mustang Hat'r 2
10-23-2012, 09:09 PM
Looks like the 408 is going in early, going to gut the car out put a 6 point bar in it and then start playing with the suspension in the spring.

Any one recomend a good roll bar to install for a amature to install? I can mig weld well just looking for something I dont have to cut and trim like crazy to fit. Wolf seems to be the norm, MWC sell them as a kit?

studderin
10-24-2012, 12:22 AM
I saw a wolfe bolt in in the eastern classifieds about a week ago.

Mustang Hat'r 2
10-24-2012, 12:30 AM
It sold, I'd prefer a weld in one but have to get mild steal. I havent made the bump to tig welding just yet.

studderin
10-24-2012, 12:44 AM
see if 2stroke will make you one. His came out really nice. He did is really light too, the min tubes thickness 4130, you see it?

Mustang Hat'r 2
10-24-2012, 12:54 AM
I saw pics of it, looks really nice I'll PM and see what he ses.