View Full Version : valley covers

08-04-2012, 12:48 AM
Do I HAVE to change valley covers when I go carb or do people just do it to get rid of the knock sensors? thanks

08-04-2012, 09:33 AM
I just cut the wire, left the sensors in there. My little black caps kept popping out when the motor was warm, had to grind a little off them and used some glue to get them to stay. I didnt like the look without the caps. A plate could be easily made, several post and pics on here of some.....

08-04-2012, 10:28 AM
Just remember if you have a newer block like an LY6 6.0 for example, That the valley cover has 8 orings that seal off the ports in the valley that would feed the displacement on demand in one of those motors.

08-04-2012, 01:26 PM
thanks guys. i have an 01 or 02 4.8. i think ill just plug the holes and paint it, no one will notice lol!

08-04-2012, 06:01 PM
Many options, I made a plate before, the newer engines don't have them, they are on the sides of the block, but do not have a rear mount cam sensor.

08-04-2012, 06:28 PM
If you were to make a plate for the newer motors I would recomend tapping/ and plugging the 8 oil holes under the cover to seal them. But again, thats only for the newer DOD acceptable engines. Eric L

08-06-2012, 02:52 PM
Since I was starting with a crate motor that didn't have any knock sensors installed to begin with I went with the Edelbrock plate.

08-06-2012, 04:44 PM
Do i want to know how much?

08-06-2012, 08:47 PM
Do i want to know how much?

Prolly not. :D I paid a guy $25 to TIG some scrap in my stock knock holes. A scrap piece of 1/4" plate would be cheaper but more time (labor) intensive...

08-07-2012, 12:47 AM
If I had to do it over again I'd take the time to have some aluminum plate cut to fit. The Edelbrock plate is needlessly thick.

I had to "massage" my old-style LS1 coolant pipe to make it fit under the Performer RPM manifold. I'm suing the old-style pipe because the motor is going in a road race car and using all four steam ports is better than two.

08-07-2012, 01:49 AM
i'm planning on getting some getting some aluminum sheered then machine turn it... maybe it'll give it some old school look

08-07-2012, 08:30 PM
For what (little) it does, 1/8" aluminum should be plenty. The thickness of the castings, factory or otherwise, may have to do with dampening valvetrain noise...

08-09-2012, 11:11 AM
I made mine with 1/4" aluminum plate. The front and sides are staright, so a local metal fab shop sheared the straight edge then I traced the rear section and cut it with a jigsaw. Worked perfect.

08-15-2012, 12:04 AM
I just painted mine..unwired the knock sensors,and silicone the caps on..

Doug G
08-15-2012, 07:46 PM
I just painted mine..unwired the knock sensors,and silicone the caps on..

Thats all my plan is.