boostedskyline

like the title states i want to know how to get more boost out of it, i got the car early spring and i want to know how to get more power, also i want to know HOW MUCH power the engine can handle, here is the list of stuff done to the car from the guy i bought it from, lmk what i can do to get some more power out of it without blowing engine (the rods are stock, i asked the guy why he didnt replace them and he said the 94 rods were built out of a tougher metal and can handle 600hp so lmk if this is true) I know this is alot of things but if anybody could chime in would be great lol, thanks


Power added: Supercharger (ProCharger P1sc) with twin hi-flow intercoolers 8 lbs pulley ( upgraded to Blow through MAF set up and redesign inlet piping, that was $500 upgrade from ProCharger)
Block: 355ci LT 1
Compression Ratio: 9:1
Heads: Stock aluminum fully ported and polished with CCAMS triple valve springs,1.94/1.6 Manley valves,
GMPP 1.6 roller rockers
Cam: CCAMS hydraulic roller 224/236 at .50 .536/557 inch lift , 114 lsa
Pushrods: CCAMS hardened
Intake: GMPP LT4 intake fully ported and port matched to heads and Throttle body
Pistons: Speed Pro forged
Crankshaft: ZZ4 Steel Forged ( I just put that crank this rebuild $900 )
Rods: Stock
MAF Sensor by PRO-M
Throttle body: Holly CNC 58mm
Fuel injectors: Lucas 42.5 lbs
Fuel Pressure regulator Aeromotive Adjustble
Fuel pump: 255 lph Racetronix with hot wire kit
Ignition: Upgraded to 95-97 style vented Opti-spark (95 GMPP Double roller timing set, timing cover, vacuum harnes) with conversion to Northstar ( Delteq) ignition system with 4 MSD coils (No more optispark problems)
Spark Plug wires: Taylor 8mm custom cut with Moroso High Temp heat sleevs
Engine management: Custom tune by CRT Performance
Exhaust System: PaceSetters 1.3/4Long Tubes ceramic coated, PaceSetter 3" Y-pipe ,Corsa Muffler .
Transmission: T-56 6speed Borg Worner with B& M short shifter build by D&D performance transmission in Detroit
Clutch: Diamond Stage 3
Drive shaft: Spohn 3.5 inch steel driveshaft with 1350 yoke
BMR strut tower brace
Griffen Radiator
Front Suspension: Lowering springs and KYB adjustable struts
Also this spring put all new bushings in upper and lower control arms, MOOG ball joints and out tie rods. All it needed is lower rear bushing on lower control arm but since I had the control arms out I decided to replace everyting.
Rear Suspention: Lowering springs and KYB adjustable shocks, Spohn adjustable control arms, You will get 2 sets of them one with poly bushings installed on car and one with spherical rods. Lowering brackert, Race torque arm with driveshaft safty loop, Global West adjustable penhard bar.
Rear End: Moser 12 bolt with 33 spline axles, Eaton limited slip, 3.73 gear
Brakes: Stock
Wheels: AFS ZR-1 style 17x9.5 ( 275/40/17 BFGoodrich KDWS front (like new 9/32 thread , 275/40/17 BFGoodrich KDWS Rear also like new one is 9/32 the other 8/32 thread.
Extras: LG motorsports subframe connectors, Alarm,
Dakota Digital Oil pressure, Fuel Pressure and Boost/Vac gage,, Autometer Air/Fuel gage.
ARP bolts and studs were used on engine assembly.
At the Dyno , car produce 470 RWHP and 442 RW LB-FT of torque at 5800 rpm. (the dyno sheet that he gave me doesnt show 470 rwhp, shows probably like 430 so idk)
This was a conservative tune with air / fuel ration at 10.8:1
The Engine currently has only 1100 miles on it. It was build by Fall Automotive Toledo OH this past spring.
Also , I have some extra and spare parts, drag radial tires, extra LT1 block that was not bored yet, laptop
with tuning and datalogging software. All this comes with the car.

35thsscamaro02

Uhhhh pulley down wtf

JRENIGAR

iTrader: (37)

Yup, put a smaller blower pulley on her...

boostedskyline

ok, anybody know which one to get/from where? and from my list, how much power can i safely put out?

JRENIGAR

iTrader: (37)

What size pulley is on there now. On my Vortech going from say 3.2" to 3.0" would be 2lbs more boost.

boostedskyline

thats another thing i dont know, just says its 8lb pulleys, i think im only hitting like 6 or 7 psi max but honestly it just doesnt feel like it pulls and want to know how to get it pulling harder

JRENIGAR

iTrader: (37)

tune looks really rich, target afr should be high 11's. Measure with calipers from outside pulley grooves where belt rides to get pulley size, not on pulley lip, on raised part of grooves. Whats the timming look like?

boostedskyline

i have no idea about the timing, have not plugged in the laptop i got with the car since i have no idea how to use the tuning software and dont want to mess anything up.
measure this part of the belt? http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...uTcmF_ACbyxTU1
and i know its rich, i know the more lean it is the more power it has, but also the more dangerous it is, i always thought that high 10's AFR's is the safest way to go, but idk, i know more of srt's, this is my first lt1 and first highly modified car

Bigtoyz

iTrader: (2)

Lower the cr the more boost you can run to make. I've seen down to 11.5 before but the 10.8 is pretty rich. With stock motor think I was 12-12.5 somewhere around there, but all depends what the timing is also.

with 9:1 I would say you should be able to get 12-15 psi. Bigger crank pulley and/or smaller charger pulley. If your getting 430rwhp your about 500hp. Since stock rods and all and 5800 redline I would say I wouldnt go more than 550 hp that will roughly put yeah at 470 rwhp. just remember the faster you spin it the better the parts need to be. The LT1 powder metal rods were good though. Think I remember seeing 450hp they would handle, but I was way past that with mine also.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

62,000 rpm is the max impeller speed of the P-1SC.
To determine the impeller speed, the following formula is used:

Maximum impeller speed = crankshaft pulley diameter (N1) divided by supercharger pulley diameter (N2),multiplied by the step-up ratio (4.10 for the P-series/D series - 5.40 for the F series), multiplied by engine rpm at redline.

10.8/1 is really rich, by the way. Bob

I8UR4RD

iTrader: (16)

i just wonder why someone would go through all that trouble to end up putting stock rods in. id try keeping it around 500 horses. and keep the rpm's lower.

boostedskyline

ya idk what cr means, or why he would end up building the engine and leaving the rods stock, i have the tunercats software on the laptop i got with the car and have no idea what to look at to check the timing, or what to change around to lean it out