New LS1 Owners - Newbie Tech - New to the LS1 and need some help!

I bought a 2000 Camaro z28 M6 with 106k miles last month and need some direction on mods.

First thing i noticed it a ridiculous amount of wheel hop. You cant even spin a little bit without wheel hop! URGG! I searched on here and found that LCA's may help so I ordered a set of UMIs. Along with the LCA's i went ahead and ordered Richmond 4.10s! Super pumped to get this stuff in drive this car like it should be. Does anyone have any input on my wheel hop? Also any other cheap or free mods for now? I own a Flashscan V2 so Ill prolly get a tune made up some time! EFILIVE!! :cheers:

Remember Im a noooooob at this fbody thing. Talk duramax and i can keep up. Someone make up a quick list of free mods and a short semi accurate parts/price sheet to get a good 400hp? Much appreciated guys!!

I would also add a UMI panhard rod and some sub frame connectors to your suspention list.

As far as power I would start with the boltons... Ram air, lid, ls6 intake manifold, long tube headers, Y pipe, cat back. That will get you in the 360ish rear wheel HP range.
Once you have all the supporting mods I would do a head/cam package, that will get you to the 400-425 HP range.

^^what said, cause...wheel hop + 10 bolt = :bomb:

Relocation brackets while your back there. I would sell the 4.10's. I'll tell you first hand that unless you have to do the gear swap ie. big cam it is a waste with a m6. It will just make it easier to grenade. On 3.42's as long as your not beating the piss out of it or on drag radials you should be able to make it last until you get a beefier rear end. Don't mess with a 12-bolt. A lot of people will argue with me on that but for the same price as a moser 12 you can get a 9 inch or S60.

There are some stickies at the top you should read which will help guide you.

But in short you can make 400 with full bolt ons and a cam swap. But you should keep in mind that as a M6 owner your much more likely to blow you 10-bolt than the automatic guys and to step up to a strong rear end that can handle a good beating is usually at a minimum of 2k. Some do it for less but though if your crafty and keep an eye out.

Shocks and tires can be a cause of wheel hop... Might want to start there first.

Relocation brackets while your back there. I would sell the 4.10's. I'll tell you first hand that unless you have to do the gear swap ie. big cam it is a waste with a m6. It will just make it easier to grenade. On 3.42's as long as your not beating the piss out of it or on drag radials you should be able to make it last until you get a beefier rear end. Don't mess with a 12-bolt. A lot of people will argue with me on that but for the same price as a moser 12 you can get a 9 inch or S60.

There are some stickies at the top you should read which will help guide you.

But in short you can make 400 with full bolt ons and a cam swap. But you should keep in mind that as a M6 owner your much more likely to blow you 10-bolt than the automatic guys and to step up to a strong rear end that can handle a good beating is usually at a minimum of 2k. Some do it for less but though if your crafty and keep an eye out.

Agree, invest in a beefier rearend first, 9" or S60. That T56 can destroy 10 bolts on stock HP much less higher HP or those with more aggressive gearing.