Fueling & Injection - F body 4th gen. 1000hp in tank fuel pump options.

I have had problems with Walbro pumps holding up. I have two with one on a Hobbs switch. They seem to last about a year and then randomly strand me. I searched the internet and there seems to be enough problems that people have with Walbros that I want to make a change. I know it would help if the pump bucket was sealed so it would keep them submerged in fuel. Anyway is the Aeromotive 1000 stealth available or going to become available? I saw a post about pumps called deutchworks or something like that. Any other pumps that have a solid reputation for reliability. Goals to meet are reliability, quietness and 1000 crank hp.

post pics of the existing set up so i can explain what is wrong

We are busy at work (auto repair shop) and my car is the last to get worked on so it might be a little while before I have it out. What are you assuming is wrong?

susbcribed

I don't know what is wrong, you said something is, so I want to see it and explain how to fix it.

Nothing wrong with walbro's unless you are buying fake ones or putting them in wrong.

I have had this setup for many years. I was one of the first dual Racetronix units sold for these cars. In the past it has done well, I drove it to Memphis from Cincinnati (8 hrs.). In the last two years I have had to do the fuel pumps twice. In the auto repair business if we have repeat problems with a manufacturer we switch to someone else. I just want to change to something else and would like to hear some suggestions.

so you are saying you had 4 pumps stop working, and after removed from the car they don't run with 12v? or something specific to racetronix failed, and nothing relative to the way of the install tho you mentioned some concern with the bucket.

i agree in the auto repair 'business' it is common to throw parts at a car at the expense of the owner, but since you are the owner of the car well you have me confused.

I do agree there is something wrong with the quality of the pumps or with the install. We have sold hundreds of dual Racetonix setups over the years and have very few failures. Have not seen another pump more reliable.

But you want the best setup possible maybe one of our Pro Touring Tanks.

http://www.nastyperformance.com/shop/f-body-pro-touring-fuel-tank/

Currently one pumps about 35-40 psi and the car can't run on it. The other runs fine for awhile and then quits until it cools down. I was on a trip last weekend and after 3 hrs. it lost fuel pressure and died I let it sit a 1/2 hour and it was good again for awhile, I eventually towed the car home. I'm really just looking for what others options I might have. I appreciate you help but don't want to get into a pissing match about Walbros. I'm a professional mechanic and do this stuff everyday, it's certainly possible that something else is the problem but I strongly doubt it. It acts just like most fuel pumps we replace, they quit running after awhile. Though you may have had good luck with yours do a search and you will find a troublesome amount of complaints. Maybe some were fakes who knows, mine are not fakes. If no one has anything to offer about a different pump setup then lets forget it and move on.

Walbro's just don't quick working. These pumps are used in 90% of applications ranging from imports to domestic. There is an issue with the install or something else. You do know that its not a good to run those pumps below 1/4 of a tank...starve under acceleration/heavy loads. Not saying your doing this, but just simply throwing a different setup or other pumps at the car is only a band aid. You need to dig further and see what causing these pumps to fail. Your just going to ruin the new setup. Maybe you have a bad relay? I know in my last car, my relay started dying and it would kill the pump until I let it sit for a while then it came back on. I finally found the issue and replaced the relay and problem solved.

Fuel pumps absolutely do just quit working. Half the tow ins at the shop we beat on the tank to wake them up so we don't have to push the cars in. I'm sorry I insulted Walbro. Please try to help with my question instead of trying to prove that I did something wrong. I ask that anyone responding please only suggest other alternatives available otherwise stay out of the thread. Lets pretend I have a stock setup and want to go to a 1000hp one that does not use Walbros, what would you suggest.

To be honest, I was going to run the twin in-tank walbro setup myself. You could also do an in-tank Aeromotive 340 with an inline Bosch 044 w/ hob switch. I don't know, there are tons of things you can do.

Fuel pumps absolutely do just quit working. Half the tow ins at the shop we beat on the tank to wake them up so we don't have to push the cars in. I'm sorry I insulted Walbro. Please try to help with my question instead of trying to prove that I did something wrong. I ask that anyone responding please only suggest other alternatives available otherwise stay out of the thread. Lets pretend I have a stock setup and want to go to a 1000hp one that does not use Walbros, what would you suggest.

Nasty already posted his in tank set-up he offers. It uses a 4303 single. If your going to take the old pumps out, why not just snap a couple pictures and post them up? No one is upset that you insulted walbro we are just trying to help. Pictures and technical discussion are what make sites like this so someone else might stumble across it if they have a problem. Just because you do something "for a living" doesn't mean you can't screw up or make a mistake.

The Nasty tank looks like a nice piece. I was not aware of that setup. That is all I'm asking to see, other choices. It gets frustrating because I'm not asking about what might be wrong. I've chosen to diagnose the problem myself and am going to make a change. I have really stopped modding the car and no longer keep up on all the current stuff like i used to that's why I'd like to look at all available options.

not to mention if you switch to a new brand and there is something such as a relay wrong, youre going to fry the new pump the same as the Walbros.. everyone is trying to help here

Thanks all the same but I'm not asking for help. Sorry to sound like a dick but thread hijacking is rude. The folks that have blind allegiance to a product and try to diagnose a problem with the assumption that brand X cannot be bad it and must be something else will find that they are not very successful techs. If it ends up being something else that's great I don't care I just want the car fixed. This is the process I have chosen. Lets end this so the gang can go somewhere else I think I'm going to give the Deatschwerks pumps a try.

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff228/ScottsAMSPics/FuelPumpflowchart1.jpg
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff228/ScottsAMSPics/Fuelpumpameragechart1.jpg

Aeromotive seems to be the top performer tho I personally don't like the brand. Also an amp hog. I would not use this pump with factory wiring.

The DW300 is unfortunately priced as much as the Aeromotive which sucks, but I like the 3 year warranty... and it sounds to me like something you may prefer as well.

Since you would not disclose the existing set up I will only make recommendations.

Run one pump full time and one triggered, and each year rotate the wiring to the full time pump.
Don't "T" the pumps together.. you wouldn't do exhaust like that.. same principles apply here. Try to use a nice Y block.
Use the factory wiring to trigger a dedicated relay for the new pumps with a dedicated chassis ground (not to tank bracket or tank).
Make sure the pumps and their socks have some room below them to pick up fuel. Don't smash them against the bottom of the bucket or tank.
Use band type hose clamps, not screw style.. they can cut the hose and lead to failure.

That covers just about every problem I've ever encountered. Solid electrical connections and avoid the generation or insulation of heat.

Also don't use these Fake Walbro Pumps (http://www.fuel-pumps.net/walbro-forgeries.html)

Great post Mighty. I've always had a soft spot for the Bosch 044, but have heard good things about the Walbro GSS342. Like you, I've never been impressed with Aeromotive... in particular the A1000. Bosch seemed to flow more and was reliable apposed to the A1000. I'm wondering if a single intank Walbro 255, feeding an Bosch 044 would be sufficient. Run the Bosch off a hob switch. That pump will flow enough to support 700hp by itself.

Mightymouse, thanks for the informative post. I use the hard plastic line to connect my pumps to the Y.

This man is experiencing vapor lock....I'd
Bet the Evap system isn't venting enough pressure....

Vapor lock is a carb. Thing, doesn't happen on fuel injection. Also relays don't take out fuel pumps.

Vapor lock is a carb. Thing, doesn't happen on fuel injection. Also relays don't take out fuel pumps.
The hell it doesnt!

Dave did you have ur 2nd and 3rd pump coming on at the same time off the same hobbs switch? would u recommend -10 feed for over 1100?

i have both pumps wired to the same 40a relay, they come on together vs tps trigger.

i changed to -10 when i went to 3 pumps mainly to switch to the nylon hose from stainless steel for weight oddly enough. i dont think it is really required, in fact my bulkhead fitting coming out of the tank is still -8 cuz i was feelin lazy.

ya i bought ur old fuel setup off u