lazyhomie

iTrader: (3)

Well I had some damage on my stock k member so I decided to replace it with a tubular K member from PA racing. Stock ls1 motor mounting holes. I am using stock control arms with bilstein springs and eibach 1.5 lowering springs. The car had no problem aligning before the swap but when I go to get it aligned now the toe can be adjusted just fine but the caster and the camber are maxed out on the slots that the K member has. I do not have a copy of the specs but the passenger side is off a good amount so much that it pulls while braking. Could I just enlarge the holes for the adjustment or what other suggestions are there?

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Suggestion #1: second opinion. Some shops have clown shoes.

Suggestion #2: check PA Racing for suggestions and search
for history of this kind of problem.

Suggestion #3: die grinder

97FormulaWS-6

iTrader: (1)

What kind of damage to the stock k-member? Any chance the car could be tweaked?

Stippy17

iTrader: (5)

Yes, what caused the damage to the stock kmember? That could be your issue right there.

lazyhomie

iTrader: (3)

Chances are it may be tweaked I wouldn't really know to be honest. I had a little mishap with a curb and bent a rim and hit the underside of the car damaged the k member and broke the oil pan. No damage past the oil pan being broken. No contact with Rods or anything. What are clown shoes?

lazyhomie

iTrader: (3)

The more I think about the more I doubt the car being tweaked just because when I bolted up the K member all the bolt holes aligned properly. the damage to the K member was out front where the rack and pinion sits. It broke my rack and pinion and bent the k member just a bit. When replaced the k member did not look twisted at all and the tubular bolted up perfectly.

Nemesis350

iTrader: (11)

If you managed to damage the k member, i would think you could have also bent the steering knuckle/spindle.

I had the same problem, where i had the alignment checked several times, and with everything maxed out i was still -3 degrees on the camber. Turns out the spindles were bent. You really can't tell just looking at them, but see how close they are to the springs. If they look too close (practically rubbing), they probably are.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Do not notch the k member, its slotted about as far as it can go already. You need aftermarket arms. If you looked closely you would see that the factory front lower control arm bushings are massive and will hit the k member's tubing when trying to adjust the arms in (towards the car). I really like the PA racing piece but their design is really for aftermarket arms. Aftermarket arm's bushing are about half the size of stockers. I had this discussion with them. They were pretty stand up about it and now I am running their lower arms as well. I suggest you call them and discuss your issue.

And the above advice from previous posters is comical at best.

Nemesis350

iTrader: (11)

So why is he only having the issue on the passenger side? From what you're saying it seems like he would have the same problem on both sides...

nomasterase

iTrader: (4)

i think what jimmy meant by clown shoes is unqualified people doing the alignment so many shops let kids who are just above a general service tech do serious jobs like alignments just because they dont have qualified personel the bent knuckle is also a distinct possibility what condition are your ball joints in?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

That's a good question. Without being under the car installing this setup it is hard to explain. But I'll try, based on the design of the k member, the front lower hoop bend angle determines exactly how much room there is allotted for each of the front bushings. The front bushing tabs attach at this bend, and subtle difference in the way the piece is bent will cause different amounts of room for the bushing. With an aftermarket arm it doesn't matter, but the stock arm can hit the bend sometimes even in the furthest away position giving you....no room for alignment adjustment. To your question, well when I set mine up, I had one arm that would go to the midway adjustment, and the other could not even be bolted in without hitting the k member. So differences from side to side do exist.

lazyhomie

iTrader: (3)

My problem is from both sides not just one.

Nemesis350

iTrader: (11)

Sorry i just assumed from that brief part you only had a problem on one side

tbird31

iTrader: (22)

1st: get a second opinion, and post results of said opinion.

2nd: you're never going to get close to "factory" settings with a lowered car. There isn't enough adjustment stock pieces.

3rd: buy adjustable lowers if it's really bugging you. You should be able to get EXACTLY what you want with adjustables...

goodluck

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

1. That's what he is doing here.
2. The adjustments are on an aftermarket k member, which have the same or more adjust-ability then the stock one does.
3. More then likely he shouldn't have to, I don't think his car is the problem.

OP, snap a pic of the front bolt adjustment area on the LCAs and lets have a look at it.

lazyhomie

iTrader: (3)

Exactly I am trying to get a second opinion because my car has already been to the alignment shop and the adjustments are maxed out and thats as much answer as the alignment shop has for me. The aftermarket k member does seem to have more adjustment than the original k member but its maxed out. The car was lowered before I swapped the K member and alignment was on specs before. I am not sure if maybe the mounts on the K member were not placed correctly and welded on there in the right spot and maybe thats why I dont have the proper adjustability. I will try and get a pic asap.

tbird31

iTrader: (22)

I meant take it to a different alignment shop and get a second opinion on the alignment. I've done more alignments on f-bodies, and lowered cars in general then I can remember, and lowered f-cars always are a struggle to get the camber into spec. It's the geometry.

The only opinions you can get on here are ideas as to what might be affecting the ability to adjust it (something bent, improper installation, alignment machine mis-calibration, and sometimes an unqualified person aligning the car; obviously I'm not saying this is the case just giving an example of what I've seen). Without pictures and/or seeing the car in person, over the internet you can never honestly get an accurate opinion and give a hypothesis as to what's the problem.

Best of luck figuring out the issue though. If you were local I'd say bring it by.

joecar

OP,

do this ^ post pics...

also post pics of your car's stance.

lazyhomie

iTrader: (3)

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Looks like he was definitely out of adjustment room on both sides. If you look at the front mounts on the control arm on the bolt head side pics you can see it is pulled all the way in. Technically you would want this near center to give room for adjustment either way, in or out. The rears look centered so he had room there. I'd forward those pics to PA racing.