View Full Version : N/A LSx H&C stroker VS Forced Induction stock cubed LSx?? Needs Advice

08-14-2012, 12:42 PM
I have a 4200 LBS 1995 Caprice 9C1 into which I want to do a LSx conversion with a 6L80e/6L90e transmission and the performance goals of 525 RWHP/500 RWTQ.

I would like your opinion on what direct direction to go for my LSx conversion.

I was leaning towards a iron block N/A 408 ci LQ based stroker or a N/A 417 ci LS3/L92 based stroker with CNC ported heads and cam. But a Tech at a supercharging shop, said that since I want a high performance street motor and not to compete in any particular racing class and the car is a daily driver. That I should consider a centifugal blower in the low boost range (like 5 to 9.5 psi) on a pull out LSx motor from a junkyard. LS2 (6 Liters)and above to a LS3/L92. This would save money on head porting and give me at least 600 RWHP/600 RWTQ to 700 RWHP/650 RWTQ along with stock street manners and way better driveability and gas mileage than a H&C stroker. Don't have to worry about things like a high stall torque converter, shitty around town gas mileage and numerically highgears. I do want to go back to 3.08 rear gears. Sound I like have your cake and eat it too scenerio. I am starting to see why there so many guys around here that are into Grand Nationals and Regal T-Types

While all this is tempting especiallly the 600 RWHP. I am not too kean on slaping a blower on junk LSx with miles on it and stock rotating assembly. Esp the rods and the pistons. I heard that the stock cast crank is tough stuff and can handle 750 FWHP and not break.

Can you please explain to me the logic and the cost of the blower route as opposed to a N/A Heads & Cam Stroker???

What are the pros and cons of either route??

I heard that the FI route requires a lot of supporting mods that addtional fuel pumps, water/methanol injection, etc etc. Is it worth it.??

Can a N/A 416 ci stroker be as daily driver friendly as a forced induction stock cubed LSx??

Which option has the least hassles in installation and operation??

Your thoughts and comments.

08-14-2012, 06:28 PM
If your goal is mid 500's then a 4.8/5.3 with a 76mm and 7psi will make that all day, and be half as cheap as a N/A 408.

08-14-2012, 07:00 PM
^ what he said.

08-15-2012, 12:07 PM
If it is a daily driver go the supercharged route. Strokers are expensive. My 416 is fun to drive but man does it get crappy gas mileage. Traffic is a no-no.

08-15-2012, 01:04 PM
Get a good low mileage 4.8L, 5.3L or 6.0L which on average will be much cheaper then a LS1 or LS2. Add a nice Vortech or Procharger setup at 5 to 10 psi with required supporting mods (which you would also need for a big stroker anyways) and you can see mid 500's whp with nice daily driving capabilities. The blower route will be much better for a DD then a big stroker at the same power level.

08-16-2012, 09:26 PM
I voted for FI as a mild build will have nice driving characteristics with your heavy car and still be able to make 500 or more rwhp. If you get greedy and want 600 or more, you really should upgrade to forged pistons/rods in stock size, port the heads and change the cam. Reliability is what you really want and with stock pistons you are only 1 bad tank of gas away from a problem.

Be careful of hidden costs in developing you budget for FI. 600 rwhp requires upgrades from radiator to rear end and fuel tank.

08-17-2012, 12:01 PM
If your goal is mid 500's then a 4.8/5.3 with a 76mm and 7psi will make that all day, and be half as cheap as a N/A 408.


Or if you can, find you centri-blower as others have stated. If it was my choice, I'd go for a TVS-1900 or 2300 on a forged bottom end, just due to the amount of torque off idle. That's what gets these boats moving!

05-19-2013, 06:20 PM
Subscribed! I was looking everywhere for a thread like this. I am swapping a pull out LS1 into a 67 camaro. I was debating selling the LS1 and going LS3 early in the swap because of different reluctor wheel, engine harness etc. BUT I was also considering keeping what I have, get it running N/A, add a TVS1900 and drive it until the engine is tired. Then I can pull the tired LS1, keep the TVS and purchase a shortblock LS1 or equivalent, swap everything over and be good to go. Really want to stay around 450-500 RWHP max., I don't like breaking running gear... Anyway, thanks for posting this...