Carbureted LSX forum - Deliver Me From Temptation - N2O

There is a like new Cheater kit with all the accessories and extras for sale locally for a good price. Includes a fuel pressure cut off switch, purge kit and a dedicated regulator. Pretty much the same stuff I would have bought myself.

I have been thinking about it for some time, but I have been reluctant because I don't want to break anything. Now it is right there tempting me.

buy it and spray the guts out of it ....but be warned,once you get a taste of the blue bottle its hard to let go.!! ;)

p.s you WILL eventually break something if your makin enough power,have fun!!

I don't even have mine finished and already want to spray it. It's like everything else, all about the tune. I would love to spray mine but the tops of pistons are just too thin.

Do it...do it now...

put it on it,,, ive had mine running one week and im ready for some,,,, im looking for the low 6's 1/8 mile

I bought it. Brand new Cheater system, led purge kit, fuel pressure cut of switch, bottle pressure gauge, Holley regulator. All brand new for 475 cash.

by all means do it,30 bottles thru the last engine i built without a problem,ran it fat and pulled timing,the first 125 hit will knock 1+ full second off your quarter mile time,that will be your bigest gain with the bottle,,after that your dealing in pain if you screw up the timing or fuel/nos ratio,,in other words a 125 shot is pretty safe and the gains are big,make sure you flow test it with the engine running and keep it above 6.5lbs at wot,

in short,,everything hooked up,bottle closed [no nos flowing] under carb plate
in bucket,start engine,hit nos button,watch fuel pressure gauge as you bring rpms up,if it drops below 6.5 you need to turn up the pressure at the regulator,install plate and beat the ever-lovin heck out of it,only kidding,,
we always ran squared jets and stayed safe 60fuel/60nos

I just do a 150, have not ever had a issue. But, I did kill a clutch, and had a 150k mile 350 start knocking on a 100, but it was probably going to happen regardless. I had to put the 100 shot fuel and 150 nitrous to get the wide band reading 12.0:1 with my cheapo sniper kit I got brand new for 100$ at a swap meet, lol.

I just do a 150, have not ever had a issue. But, I did kill a clutch, and had a 150k mile 350 start knocking on a 100, but it was probably going to happen regardless. I had to put the 100 shot fuel and 150 nitrous to get the wide band reading 12.0:1 with my cheapo sniper kit I got brand new for 100$ at a swap meet, lol.

I think it comes with 150, 200, 250 jets. I am thinking I might get a progressive controller and start with the 150 jets. Otherwise, I will pick up some 100 jets to be safe.

In my old 64 Buick Special, I ran 1 to 2 bottles a week through that junk yard 350 for a year. But, it was not making half the power this motor is. In fact, this car is nearly 2 seconds faster in the 1/4 than the old 64.

150 hp straight out the gate. Be prepared to buy pics. If you don't have tubing, get it, because that thing is gonna do the twist. Your gonna love spotting the race cars with the street car.

Right out of the gate would be fun, but I am afraid I will twist an axle. I still have stockers.

If you have a auto, it would be fine I think. A manual and sticky tires? Not so much, but you will find out.

I bought it.....

Cool! Can't wait to get my kit and can't wait to see your new times!

I read in another thread that NGK Stock# 3346 ( Br7ef ) are the plugs to run at about .030". Anyone have any input on that? I also read guys are pulling about 6 degrees of timing for a 150 shot. Thoughts? What fuel are you guys running?

Yep, I run a br7ef, pull 6*, 93 in the tank and the dedicated fuel cell sprays in 100 octane aviation fuel(a airport is right in my back yard). Also run a MSD window switch, activated 3000 to 6900 rpm. Fuel for the nitrous is fed by a Holley blue.

Racing fuel is stupid expensive these days.

thats why im going to swap to e-85 fuel.... i need to find a good plug to run that......

100 octane aviation fuel(a airport is right in my back yard.

Isn't a lot of that Av gas oxigenated?

i ran 2 gallons 93 + 3 gallons 116 race in my dedicated nos cell,about 106 octane,pulled 6 on the timing,windowed 35-6500 with the hyfire box,no problems for five years and LOTS of bottles thru it,good luck,,small steps to big gains,
Charles

i ran 2 gallons 93 + 3 gallons 116 race in my dedicated nos cell,about 106 octane,pulled 6 on the timing,windowed 35-6500 with the hyfire box,no problems for five years and LOTS of bottles thru it,good luck,,small steps to big gains,
Charles

Are you running stock pistons? How big of a shot?

forged pistons 9.5 comp,the shot added 134rwhp on the dyno,guessing the 150 shot jets,hard to tell when you don't follow the instructions and start to square up the jets,i would give you exact numbers but the car is now gone and working on the lq4 68 firebird,i ran very conservative on the bottle and enjoyed the gains without pain,my buddies running two, three, and four stage systems were fixing their cars every other run,too expensive for me,will help pit for a four stage 69 camaro that runs 7.0s in the quarter in a couple of weeks,hope to get some video,will post if so,

I read in another thread that NGK Stock# 3346 ( Br7ef ) are the plugs to run at about .030". Anyone have any input on that? I also read guys are pulling about 6 degrees of timing for a 150 shot. Thoughts? What fuel are you guys running?

I'm running 103 autolites at .035 with zero problems. I pull 8 degrees out on 150 shot. My times don't seem to change when adding more timing but I can't say for sure I stay hooked, my 60 goes up 1.44 instead of 1.39 and the mph doesn't. I run 50/50 mix on race fuel and premium. I have pulled a lot of plugs and cut them up with no specking or anything so I'm happy. I have wondered about pulling less timing for race fuel because we all know that the NOS timing pull rule is usually for premium ... not the 110 race fuel or mix. However I'm not interested in testing the boundaries to much on my own vehicle.

Deliver me from temptation
Hahaha, lol
Kinda looks like the boys are delivering you directly to temptation!
I'm tempted too, but I don't think I'll dance with this devil......yet, lol

I'm running 103 autolites at .035 with zero problems. I pull 8 degrees out on 150 shot. My times don't seem to change when adding more timing but I can't say for sure I stay hooked, my 60 goes up 1.44 instead of 1.39 and the mph doesn't. I run 50/50 mix on race fuel and premium. I have pulled a lot of plugs and cut them up with no specking or anything so I'm happy. I have wondered about pulling less timing for race fuel because we all know that the NOS timing pull rule is usually for premium ... not the 110 race fuel or mix. However I'm not interested in testing the boundaries to much on my own vehicle.

Thanx for sharing that. I am not interested in pushing the limits either. I want to be as safe as possible. Are you stock shortblock?

Hahaha, lol
Kinda looks like the boys are delivering you directly to temptation!
I'm tempted too, but I don't think I'll dance with this devil......yet, lol

If I was 10s N/A, I would most likely not bother with the nitrous. Your car is a beast.

Thanx for sharing that. I am not interested in pushing the limits either. I want to be as safe as possible. Are you stock shortblock?


Yep 2009 LY6 stock pistons and rods.

Got a pile of goodies from the UPS guy. Some Earl's fittings, an additional fuel pressure gauge, bottle heater, bottle blanket, assorted jet kit and a blow down tube.

time to DANCE

Yep 2009 LY6 stock pistons and rods.

What kit are you running? What jets?

Isn't a lot of that Av gas oxigenated?

It's not that. It has CRAZY amount of lead for vehicles in it. Even though its called 100LL (low lead) that means low by aviation standards. It also is lighter than regular gas and therefor must be run richer. I ran it in my solid roller 414 for a couple tanks and didn't like what it did to my oil and plugs.

What kit are you running? What jets?

I'm running a sniper kit. Its only adjustable to 150. I'm running the 150 ones, I don't recall the sizes right off, I will edit tomorrow.

The line on the sniper and solenoids are smaller than yours. Also I tried a High flow valve bottle, a buddy of mine had and my times didn't change at all. I'm just letting you know that as a "In my experience thing"... I'm glad I didn't have to buy a high flow valve or high flow bottle trying to make it go faster. However, all that could be just because of the limits of the lines solenoids etc. It could make a diffence on a cheater system. So if you get a chance to swap them out let me know what you find. I have 50+ passes on mine on the 150 shot. Pulled the heads recently making some mods before dropping the engine in the Fairmont I am building. Everything looked great inside.

The cheater instructions show to run the jets "square", but most of the nitrous experts on Yellow Bullet including Monte from NOS said to run an 8 to 10 spread with a larger nitrous jet than fuel. I just wanted to know what your jet spread was and what your plugs look like after a pass.

A mock up for the fuel side:

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/36/22/2056322_600.jpg

I think they recommend squared due to fuel pressure, timing, set-up, ect, variances they can't control and a little fat is a good thing sometimes. If you're off on the tune...it's better to be on that side of things....too lean and you'll be draining aluminum out of the oil pan.

:secret2: :devil:



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFVUe9QO62U

63 N20

71 Fuel

Theres a great writeup with pictures on dragstuff.com on how to read the plugs and the strap. If you want to take it to a science level. Definitely a little rich means a little more forgiveness for our stock pistons.

63 N20

71 Fuel

Wow bigger fuel jet than nitrous. I bet that bad boy has a bunch more in it!

With todays pistons the big thing that you have to worry about is knocking it. Make sure your timing is right and I would start with taking out 6 to 8* with 150 and work up from there. I would also make sure you have plenty of octane in it. I have always used Xylene and never had a problem.
Hyper pistons can put up with allot if your tune is right.
I helped tune a Mustang with a stock shortblock (hyper pistons) that made 240RWHP N/A and 470 with nitrous and it was together for almost 3 years before it split the block.
I also had a 302 that I ran two plates stacked because back in the 80s you could only buy a non adjustable 125 kit so I had two.:)
Never had a problem with that either.
Your car is going to fly with this kit on it. Just make sure your fuel supply can keep up and keep a close eye on the plugs.

Good luck and have fun.

Just make sure your fuel supply can keep up and keep a close eye on the plugs.

I am going to test the fuel system by running a bypass hose from the supply side by the engine to the return line with a nitrous fuel jet as a restrictor and then make a pass or two to make sure it can maintain the fuel pressure.

I am going to test the fuel system by running a bypass hose from the supply side by the engine to the return line with a nitrous fuel jet as a restrictor and then make a pass or two to make sure it can maintain the fuel pressure.

LOL That's a great idea. I would have never thought of that.If it keeps up with it that way then you will have no problems with the nitrous.
Your going to have a low 10 second street car.:cheers:

Just like everything on this car. The cost has mushroomed. :rolleyes:


NOS Cheater system (2nd hand but new)
L.E.D. purge kit
Fuel pressure cut of switch
Bottle pressure gauge
Holley regulator
Relays
Misc. Fittings
Bottle Blanket
Fuel Pressure Gauge
Jet Pack
Blow Down Tube
Fuel Filter
N20 Filter
Bottle Heater (Used)
NOS Nitrous Progressive Controller (used)
Blow off valve & adapter
Progressive Redundant Safety Kit
More Misc. Fittings
Bulkhead Fitting
18” 4AN nitrous line
Misc. Switches

Current Total: $1,310.00:eek:

I could have done it cheaper, but I just had to have it all the way or not at all. Also, the progressive is not necessary per se, but I am going to use it to protect my stock axles and hopefully my near stock transmission. If you take the progressive out of the equation, my number would be about $350 less.

Ive been away for a while, Tig, but that ball is still rollin down the hill !LOL. I will be looking forward to seeing some times.
I am going unnatural in some form soon myself. As soon as my 68 finds a new home, the 72 is going under the knife.
I asked about some blow through stuff on here but didnt get much response.I am leaning toward a forged 427 LS3 short block (with my stock LS3 uppers) and a conservative plate system, say a 150 shot. With the forged short block I should be plenty safe if I miss cue just a little.
Anyway , sorry about the slight hijak. Looking forward to some times from the buford.

Ive been away for a while, Tig, but that ball is still rollin down the hill !LOL. I will be looking forward to seeing some times.
I am going unnatural in some form soon myself. As soon as my 68 finds a new home, the 72 is going under the knife.
I asked about some blow through stuff on here but didnt get much response.I am leaning toward a forged 427 LS3 short block (with my stock LS3 uppers) and a conservative plate system, say a 150 shot. With the forged short block I should be plenty safe if I miss cue just a little.
Anyway , sorry about the slight hijak. Looking forward to some times from the buford.

Well, a 427 with juice ought to get it done LOL! They are just gonna throw me out the first time I hit the button anyway, but I just have to have that 10 second timeslip.

One of the problems with old cars is finding a place for modern electronics and switches. I needed a place for my nitrous switches, cooling fan override and lock up torque converter switch. For you non-smokers, here is my solution:

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/56/70/2056507_600.jpg

When the ashtray is closed. Nobody sees it.

nice, I like the way you have that set up

One of the problems with old cars is finding a place for modern electronics and switches. I needed a place for my nitrous switches, cooling fan override and lock up torque converter switch. For you non-smokers, here is my solution:

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/56/70/2056507_600.jpg

When the ashtray is closed. Nobody sees it.

Very Nice. My buddy used to wire stuff up weird in his 71' Skylark. He used original fan motor switch. Low=electric fan Med=electric water pump Hi= both

Looking forward to seeing you results on the spray. Thinking about spraying mine, but not sure with the stock slugs.

Good luck

For whats its worth I am spraying a 250 shot on a stock bottom end 5.3 and was spraying 150 before that and was just teasing it.

For whats its worth I am spraying a 250 shot on a stock bottom end 5.3 and was spraying 150 before that and was just teasing it.
How quick is this combo?

I am spraying a 250 shot on a stock bottom end 5.3

Holy smoke!

A video of my Progressive Nitrous Controller hidden installation.

http://youtu.be/Pc06mn71Rgw

Very nice job ;)

Very slick! Especially the progressive. What is it mounted on? I like!!!

Very slick! Especially the progressive. What is it mounted on? I like!!!

It is a compound spring loaded hinge from home depot. I was just checking out what they had and there is was. The perfect hinge.

http://www.amazon.com/LIBERTY-H01068C-UC-C5-Non-Mortise-Concealed-Spring/dp/B005YVKNFC

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41klY2zMxFL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

The cool part is that is not only rotates but swings out. So, in the car it drops down.

After I had the hinge, I just made a mounting plate from aluminum for the controller and a bracket to mount to the dash structure.

tigger, take montes advice on the tune for this setup. rich is NEVER safe, more people burn motors with rich tunes than any other tune-up. stick to the lean/ low timing tunes if you want the engine to keep a set of pistons. 90% of the time people blame a burnt hole on being lean, and 95% of them are wrong......been there done that, the correct fuel tune along with not running the timing on the edge is a recipe for alot of passes with little hassle.

I plan to follow what Monte and Steve say closely. I know they know what I need to know.

It is a compound spring loaded hinge from home depot. I was just checking out what they had and there is was. The perfect hinge.

http://www.amazon.com/LIBERTY-H01068C-UC-C5-Non-Mortise-Concealed-Spring/dp/B005YVKNFC

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41klY2zMxFL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

The cool part is that is not only rotates but swings out. So, in the car it drops down.

After I had the hinge, I just made a mounting plate from aluminum for the controller and a bracket to mount to the dash structure.

Awesome. I may have to "borrow" this idea from you when I go to mount a progressive in my car. Not that I can really "hide" anything in my cockpit full of switches and gauges, but it makes a great way to make the progressive accessible when it's needed and out of the way when it's not. Again.....very cool!

Installing the nitrous forced me to do something I have been avoiding for a year. :D

I had to install a secondary fusebox. Musclecars have very little in the way of a fuse box. So wiring quickly becomes a cluster. Painless Performance to the rescue...... Now I have a place to properly wire my cooling fans circuit, lock up torque converter, shift light, nitrous etc.

http://elocaladvertising.com/web-pics/charlotte-fusebox.jpg

As mentioned, 250 is safe on these as long as the tune is right. When you gonna spray that thing? Cannot wait to put the 150 on the TA after I dial it in on motor.

Taking care of a lot of little things right now. Gotta get this re-wire done and finish up re-doing the front brakes. I had a sticky left front caliper that actually completely destroyed the brake pads in 2,000 miles. I wonder if that affected my MPH? Also, I want to re-tune the 950HP carb N/A at the track since I got the problems sorted out.

I am dying to see if my TA picks up over the RS with the automatic, so hope we can both get some results soon!

I am dying to see if my TA picks up over the RS with the automatic, so hope we can both get some results soon!

Is the T/A fatter? And, how much converter did you put in?

The RS was 3150, all interior carpet ad impact bars removed, ect, so the TA is 150 or so more, the converter is a 4500.

The RS was 3150, all interior carpet ad impact bars removed, ect, so the TA is 150 or so more, the converter is a 4500.

Tough call. If I remember the videos accurately, you were driving the hell out of that stick shift, so it is hard for me to say it will be quicker with the extra weight. It will be interesting to see for sure.

tigger, take montes advice on the tune for this setup. rich is NEVER safe more people burn motors with rich tunes than any other tune-up.

stick to the lean/ low timing tunes if you want the engine to keep a set of pistons.


90% of the time people blame a burnt hole on being lean, and 95% of them are wrong......been there done that,

the correct fuel tune along with not running the timing on the edge is a recipe for alot of passes with little hassle.


Please enlighten me on what happens to these motors your blowing up with a slightly rich/fat tune.

Tell me about the holes your finding in pistons with a rich/fat tune. How are you theorizing doing this?

Now if your running your timing wrong, thats on you, thats not because of the fuel mixture. I realize both need to be correct, but I have never saw this terrible damage your talking about from being a little rich on fuel.

I stated my opinion on the matter earlier your posts seems to be aimed at discrediting my opinion. I'm not "name dropping" anyone. My opinion is formed from my tuning and racing.

NO ENGINES HAVE BEEN HARMED IN MY EXPERIMENTING. :judge:

Please enlighten me on what happens to these motors your blowing up with a slightly rich/fat tune.

Tell me about the holes your finding in pistons with a rich/fat tune. How are you theorizing doing this?

Now if your running your timing wrong, thats on you, thats not because of the fuel mixture. I realize both need to be correct, but I have never saw this terrible damage your talking about from being a little rich on fuel.

I stated my opinion on the matter earlier your posts seems to be aimed at discrediting my opinion. I'm not "name dropping" anyone. My opinion is formed from my tuning and racing.

NO ENGINES HAVE BEEN HARMED IN MY EXPERIMENTING. :judge:

Wow. I did not see anyone attack you in this thread including buschmec.

As for being a little rich, I am sure that is not a big deal. However, in one of your earlier posts you said you had a "63 N20 71 Fuel" jet spread. By today's nitrous technology standards that and crazy rich.

I realize that is what the jets spreads were on the old NOS kits from the 80s and early 90s. However, all of the nitrous gurus including those who work for and have worked for NOS like Monte Smith & Mike Thermos as well as other like Steven Johnson from Induction Solutions are recommending a 10 jet spread with a larger nitrous jet than fuel at about 5 pounds of fuel pressure (carbureted).

So for your power level they are advising 63 nitrous and 53 fuel as a starting point.

If you go where the big nitrous boys are over at Yellow Bullet and do so searches and some reading, you can find where they talk about what damage a rich tune does.

Too rich is as bad as too lean....both will destroy an engine.

Now you can be a little off one way or the other and be fine, but once you get outta that "safe zone" :laser:

Safe is slightly rich. Not pig rich. They both are bad in any extreme, one blows holes in pistons the other blows off ring lands, from my experience anyway. Lol, glad they were not mine. On my sniper kit, to get 12.0:1 I had the 150 jet nitrous and the 100 fuel.

Wow. I did not see anyone attack you in this thread including buschmec.

As for being a little rich, I am sure that is not a big deal. However, in one of your earlier posts you said you had a "63 N20 71 Fuel" jet spread. By today's nitrous technology standards that and crazy rich.

I realize that is what the jets spreads were on the old NOS kits from the 80s and early 90s. However, all of the nitrous gurus including those who work for and have worked for NOS like Monte Smith & Mike Thermos as well as other like Steven Johnson from Induction Solutions are recommending a 10 jet spread with a larger nitrous jet than fuel at about 5 pounds of fuel pressure (carbureted).

So for your power level they are advising 63 nitrous and 53 fuel as a starting point.

If you go where the big nitrous boys are over at Yellow Bullet and do so searches and some reading, you can find where they talk about what damage a rich tune does.

I am interested in seeing this rich mixture damage. If you think of your engine as a torch, which it is in a way. If you add fuel the flame will get less heat in it and more smoke, but lean it out by adding OXygen, the flame gets really hot. Your engine is going on the same principal. Add the NOS and fuel the combustion temperature raises dramatically. Lean the fuel charge with a increase in Oxygen you end up with melted electrodes, holes in pistons, butted rings busting the tops off pistons ( I know they can also butt just because they weren't gapped for NOS and power level to start with). The worse thing being a little rich is your leaving power on the table. Lean and bad timing causes detonation Which we all know destroys stuff quickly. Having the tune a little rich actually deters detonation. Given the choice between the two options on spray I'm staying on the rich side.

I have over 50 passes (probably way over) all the passes look as clean as the one in my sig. Spray out the gate ....No Black smoke anfd my plugs look fine when I cut them up. I just recently had the heads off during my Fairmont swap. Everything is AOK. I will also be spraying the fairmont. I will check out the yellow bullet articles but I don't see the damage this guy is talking about coming from a rich mixture.

Quick glimpse over there and this is the theory on the lifted ring lands.

Too much fuel..

Fuel gets trapped under the ring..
Fuel explodes on the next firing cycle and lifts ring land..
Ring gets stuck...
Oil rushes in..
Nitrous...gas..oil cause thermal melt down...


I don't buy into all this. And it seems like every piston failure at yellow bullet was caused by the mixture was to rich lol. I guess I know where buschmech gets all his advice. Honestly if I was a "on the fence", after looking in their piston failure thread I would NEVER spray a engine.

There is a lot of seriously knowledgeable and experienced nitrous people over there.

Always error on the rich side. If theres not enough fuel, your engine parts will be next. Just saying from a lot of exprience. I have in all my 20+ years of engine building never seen a injury from to rich. Unless it is insaning rich, I dont see how it can happen.

Always error on the rich side. If theres not enough fuel, your engine parts will be next. Just saying from a lot of exprience. I have in all my 20+ years of engine building never seen a injury from to rich. Unless it is insaning rich, I dont see how it can happen.

What is your set up and jet spread?

Spent the whole day re-wiring today. The one thing that I did makeshift when I was finishing my car was the final wiring. I wanted to drive it now! :D

Well, it was time to pay the piper and do it right. Wiring is sooo freakin' time consuming. But, now I have a nice modern auxiliary fuse box with plenty of extra circuits and all of my wiring is organized in looms and sheathing. I also added a convenience panel in the engine compartment for a central location for relays and such.

I also finally wired my lock up torque converter. I drove around playing with it. It is nice to have.

I am going to try to make test and tune Wednesday for final tuning with the new 950HP and see how advancing the cam affects the times. Then I will be ready to start the nitrous install.

I run a high pressure tune. A little different from the norm. Its works and I dont like change.

Man. Rain rain rain. TnT rained out tonight and it is supposed to rain all week. No racing for me this week.

You could start with squat jetting and 5.5 psi and youll be fine.

You could start with squat jetting
Not sure I have ever heard of squat jetting.....

Not sure I have ever heard of squat jetting.....

square sorry. was in a hurry.

square sorry. was in a hurry.

The nitrous experts I engaged on YellowBullet to said square jetting is way over rich. They said for a 150 shot at 5 psi fuel pressure to use an 8 to 10 spread to start and would probably even end up with more spread. These are people like Monte Smith, Mike Thermos and Steve Johnson.

I tried to go to the local 1/8 mile track last night, but the track was un-raceable. The track has new owners and the place was a disaster, so I will have to make the hour and a half drive to the quarter mile track next week if I want to get the final pre-nitrous tune done.

I've got the line in the car. Today I will mount the bottle and set up the heater andblow down system.

Today I installed the bottle, heater, heater relay, blow down tube and pressure control switch.

Even after the install, I still have room in the trunk for a pair of racing slicks, tool box, cooler and the Large Hadron Collider. :D

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/77/69/2057796_300.jpghttp://px6.streetfire.net/0002/77/39/2057793_300.jpg

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/77/59/2057795_300.jpghttp://px6.streetfire.net/0002/77/49/2057794_300.jpg

Looks like a clean install....but can I ask why the left side ? I always see a battery and bottle on the right to help with traction due to twisting.

Looks like a clean install....but can I ask why the left side ? I always see a battery and bottle on the right to help with traction due to twisting.

I did not want the nitrous line right next to my fuel lines and fuel system. It is cramped on that side of the car. And, my spare tire mounts on the right side from the factory.

I did not want the nitrous line right next to my fuel lines and fuel system. It is cramped on that side of the car. And, my spare tire mounts on the right side from the factory.

Fair enough....just asking :D

Fair enough....just asking :D

If you notice, I did not move my battery to the trunk either. The car hooks good on any good track.

The car hooks good on any good track.

For now.......LOL :D Looks good. Can't wait to see the track results.

could sleep in that trunk.

I don't see any bars yet... so I'm guessing your shooting once per night... just before exiting. :D

I don't see any bars yet... so I'm guessing your shooting once per night... just before exiting. :D

Yeah. That is gonna make track tuning tough.........

Weather is all clear tomorrow for Test & Tune. Supposed to be high 70s with light tailwind. Should be the last tuning session for my car N/A before the rest of the nitrous install. I want to see some 11.40s.

Final passes and tuning before I finish the nitrous install. All pretty much normal for my car in 1000 D/A. 1 jet size leaner and 1 degree less timing produced the best times of the night.

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/87/28/2057882_600.jpg

Can't wait to see how she moves on the juice!!

Me too! This is gonna be cool!

With your car that fast already wouldnt a 150-200 shot put you almost in the Nines ?! Wow.

Thinking 150 hit....10.2-3's :D

With your car that fast already wouldnt a 150-200 shot put you almost in the Nines ?! Wow.

Thinking 150 hit....10.2-3's :D

You guys are incorrigible! I am thinking of a 100 shot for like 10.80s at 125. I am bad enough left to my own devices. You guys talking about these super low #s are a bad influence.:jest:

Finished my brackets for the fuel side on the engine. They bolt to the front two valley cover bolts:

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/97/66/2057966_600.jpg

Now I have to make the brackets for the nitrous side. Probably not today though. I have to go find and buy a new shed today.

I worked some more after dinner. The plate is on. The Nitrous side is all set up. Now all I have to do is pull it apart, seal up all the fittings and lock everything down, then wire it up.

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/97/96/2057969_600.jpg

Here is the ultra simple WOT switch. I used an old choke lever and straightened it out. Worked out nice and simple.

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/97/07/2057970_600.jpg

No test hits on the street yet??? :(

SPRAY IT! NO wait dont. Its addicting. carb'd ls motors loooove nitrous.

No test hits on the street yet??? :(

With that trunk... He should have no problem hooking up...right. ;)

I took half a day off to help get the car ready for Sunday. It is a good thing I did, or it would not have gotten ready in time.

I hooked it all up and tested the progressive. Everything seems to work as it should. I just have to run the fuel line to the nitrous fuel regulator from the filter, run the hot wire for the bottle heater to the battery and put in the BR7s.

I also am going to pick up 5 gallons of 112 race fuel for safety margin.

11.5 - 150 shot + progressive = 10.3 I'm guessing......can't wait :poke: take someone to shoot some vids :D

11.5 - 150 shot + progressive = 10.3 I'm guessing......can't wait :poke: take someone to shoot some vids :D

2nd on the videos. It should roll out for sure. Good luck

We are starting out with a 51 jet which will be ballpark 100 shot. Anywhere in the 10s and I will be thrilled.

I am just trying to figure out what I am going to do on the fuel. Pump. Pump/Race mix.

I am talking to fuel companies about specific gravity. I don't want to pick gas the screws up my tune. It is dead on.

I really like 100LL aviation fuel. It works very well mixed with premium pump gas . It is also very reasonably priced. Locally I can only get 91 octane non eth, so I mix the 100ll with great results. I only splash a gallon or so into the tank of my camaro for track days, but for my 15:1 2stroke drag race snowmobiles, we run 50/50, 91pump/100LL. No detonation signs EVER!
Going from memory 100LL is aprox 105 motor octane, they do not list research octane, but it is almost irelevant anyway.
FYI race fuel companies will lie to you and tell you 100Ll av gas is bad for your car and will make less power etc...... They dont sell av fuel, so do your own research on 100ll fuel.

VP racing fuels said that their VP-100 is a great step up from pump gas and does not require a re-tune as it has a similar specific gravity and characteristics. We have a station locally that sells it for 8.75 per gallon out of the pump. So, I think that is my solution for a safety margin right there.

pump VP-100 no thats spoilt!

i'm lucky that we get very good e85 at the pump. i'm a massive convert, even running 12.0:1 comp on my daily (which does 11.3 with genIV only a ls2 cam).

Last time I pulled up to the pump for some Cam II....owner came flying out....got to put in a can....not allowed in a tagged car :(

$25 of Cam II ($4.50 per gallon back then) + the cost of a 5 gallon can :(

Last time I pulled up to the pump for some Cam II....owner came flying out....got to put in a can....not allowed in a tagged car :(

$25 of Cam II ($4.50 per gallon back then) + the cost of a 5 gallon can :(

VP-100 is passenger vehicle approved.

Today I tested the fuel system with a .064 by pass jet and it held fuel pressure no problem. So, I know I am good to go up to about a 74 nitrous jet which is 175 horse or so.

I just have to set the flowing fuel pressure on the nitrous fuel pressure regulator and hook up the bottle heater main power wire. Then it is time for a few test hits tomorrow.

Everything is done except for installing the BR7s.

Taking a lunch break then I am going to change the plugs, get some fuel and make a few quick hits to see how the car likes it.:rock:

Everything is done except for installing the BR7s.

Taking a lunch break then I am going to change the plugs, get some fuel and make a few quick hits to see how the car likes it.:rock:

We'll all be waiting to hear about it! :corn:

video :D

Test runs were very successful. Feels strong. But, I used 2 1/2 pounds of nitrous. The bottle now weighs 21.5 pounds. Hope that is enough for a good pass tomorrow.

Save it......:nod:


You know once you hit it you'll be going home with a "Smiling Bob" smile :D http://paynoattention.typepad.com/.a/6a00e54fbd2017883300e554ae4ff88833-800wi

I run aviation LL in a separate fuel cell. No issues ever. Got the idea from a friend that sprays way more than me, lol.

Well guys, the results are in. Here are timeslips on motor and on nitrous and a video of me laying down a Cuda.

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/08/79/2058097_600.jpg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKABJKe5hyM

Congrats man.

Awesome man! Congrats! A full second and 11mph is a great gain. Was this with 100 shot? Any progression or full shot out of the hole. Details man......we need details....LOL.

Awesome man! Congrats! A full second and 11mph is a great gain. Was this with 100 shot? Any progression or full shot out of the hole. Details man......we need details....LOL.

55 nitrous / 47 fuel jets. 21 degrees straight timing. 40 HP on the hit - all in by the 60' mark.

Car worked great. Dead solid hook. Great lift in the suspension and smooth as silk.

Congrats :cheers:

Have you tried flashing the converter from idle or just over idle (1500 or less) ????

What was FP @ the noid ?
I have a pair of 52's and a pair of 59's I might be trying once I get ironed out ;)

Congrats :cheers:

Have you tried flashing the converter from idle or just over idle (1500 or less) ????

What was FP @ the noid ?
I have a pair of 52's and a pair of 59's I might be trying once I get ironed out ;)
My car works best on the motor leaving at 1500. So, that is what I did on nitrous. The nitrous fuel pressure regulator was set at 5.5 lbs flowing through a 64 jet. My solenoids are big shot nitrous with and cheater fuel with a cheater plate.

55 nitrous / 47 fuel jets. 21 degrees straight timing. 40 HP on the hit - all in by the 60' mark.

Car worked great. Dead solid hook. Great lift in the suspension and smooth as silk.

Cool. So somewhere between 100 and 125 then probably. Very nice gains. I'm on a hotel wireless network so the video was taking forever, but the parts I caught without buffering the car looked great!

NOS says it is a 125 HP jet, but the Drag Strip Calculator says I netted 140 HP.

http://www.hotrodpitstop.com/tool.php

I am very pleased.

Effin A!. Did you saunter over to the 440 'cuda later to tell hm about your stock block 'truck motor' ?. I get the feeling you are not that kinda guy, but we can all imagine what we would do, LoL.
Got any good shots of your offline hook ? any space under front tire......

awesome work, especially for a big girl. would've been fun pulling her up at the end of the track!

Effin A!. Did you saunter over to the 440 'cuda later to tell hm about your stock block 'truck motor' ?. I get the feeling you are not that kinda guy, but we can all imagine what we would do, LoL.
Got any good shots of your offline hook ? any space under front tire......

I don't think there is any air under the tire. I can usually feel it when the front suspension hits the stops. I had the progressive set up for a soft launch. I still have stock axles. :O

That is really the amazing thing about this set up. The car is quiet (you can seldom hear my car on the videos) and it leaves smooth. And, other than the wheels there is no indication inside or out that the thing can do what it does.

I did not have to rub it in. The track workers were doing that for me. They had the Mopar guys all wound up. One track official said the Cuda guys asked: "WTF is in that thing?":razz:

Awesome!!!!!!!!

congrats man....

Congrats!!!

Thanx Guys. I could not be more pleased with the results.

I am looking at my buddies low resolution picture. I can't decide if the left front is off the ground or not:

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/19/46/2059164_600.jpg

Right on.. That 51 jet wasn't enough??

Right on.. That 51 jet wasn't enough??

The tune looked so good and there was so little heat in the plug from the test hits with the 51n that I just went 55n jet. It all looks great now.

So, I pulled out my stock 28 spline axles and the left axle had a slight twist in the spline area. I guess a 1.51 60' in a 3700+ lb car is too much to ask from a 40 year old 28 spline axle. :D

So, I pulled out my stock 28 spline axles and the left axle had a slight twist in the spline area. I guess a 1.51 60' in a 3700+ lb car is too much to ask from a 40 year old 28 spline axle. :D

Glad you caught it before it caught you. :D

1.51 60 ft is getting it DONE!

Makes me glad I ditched my 28's before they ditched me. At least yours were bolt in axles, but the breakage still would have sucked and could've caused more havoc. I'm glad you caught it in time!

Well, the success of my "monster garage sale" has paid for my axles, 30-spline upgrade, studs and lug nuts. :burn:

Next up is to weld in my custom designed sump/baffle box into my fuel tank. If this works the way I intend, I can run about 100 pounds less fuel and pick up a tenth and an MPH.

Goodies have arrived. Christmas came early for Speedtigger. :burn:

http://elocaladvertising.com/web-pics/moser-axles-71skylark.jpg

That's good man. Been glad I went with my mower 12 bolt before the 6.0 of doom was wreaking havoc on 6500-7000 launches. No 7.5 would have survived I think. Lol

OOoooooooo shiney new parts :D

Had a little speedbump with the new axles. One of them is out of spec on the splines and will not fit onto the spider gears. I have to wait until Monday to see what is up with Moser. :bang:

Sorry to hear that man. I was a little disappointed with the workmanship on the Moser 12-bolt I put in my 99 TA. Welds weren't the best and the angles between the control arm mounts from side to side was inconsistent. Hopefully they'll make it right with you. That's why I went with Strange stuff for the Camaro.

I had a pair of moser 12 bolt axles. New straight out of the box they were very sloppy on the spline fit. Could rotate the axle back and forth about 1/8" at the flange OD. For comparison the 40+ year old well worn stockers had less than 1/16". The ends of the spline machining were all over the place too. Sloppy workmanship.
I complained to moser about it and they said it would work fine and dont worry about it. The axles are still sitting in the corner unused. Moser=crap in my book.

Well, they are sending me out another axle. Hopefully this one will be right.

Also, I found a new stainless steel replacement fuel tank for my car at Auto City Classics. Now I can weld in my custom stainless steel tank baffle/sump. This will allow me to run 16 or more gallons less fuel saving me 100 pounds.

Nice set-up ! Congrats

I had a pair of moser 12 bolt axles. New straight out of the box they were very sloppy on the spline fit. Could rotate the axle back and forth about 1/8" at the flange OD. For comparison the 40+ year old well worn stockers had less than 1/16". The ends of the spline machining were all over the place too. Sloppy workmanship.
I complained to moser about it and they said it would work fine and dont worry about it. The axles are still sitting in the corner unused. Moser=crap in my book.

WOW.... My 35 spline axles and spool were tight as hell....maybe it was since it was all Moser stuff ?

Anywho, hope they get you fixed up this time speed.

Well, they are sending me out another axle. Hopefully this one will be right.

Also, I found a new stainless steel replacement fuel tank for my car at Auto City Classics. Now I can weld in my custom stainless steel tank baffle/sump. This will allow me to run 16 or more gallons less fuel saving me 100 pounds.

After doing a horrible job on my original tank I have been looking at a stainless one. I talked to the auto city guy at turkey rod run. $220 for a stainless a body tank sounds pretty awesome. Where are you getting a stainless sump? Are you going to fab your own? I considered making one myself. Are you mounting the sump back by the filler or down in the front? It seems like a trade off, down low or back.

After doing a horrible job on my original tank I have been looking at a stainless one. I talked to the auto city guy at turkey rod run. $220 for a stainless a body tank sounds pretty awesome. Where are you getting a stainless sump? Are you going to fab your own? I considered making one myself. Are you mounting the sump back by the filler or down in the front? It seems like a trade off, down low or back.

I designed my own baffle/sump. I will create a thread with pics when I weld it in the new tank.

Something sexy about this picture.

The fuel tank sump/baffle project is now full swing:
http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1606346-speedtiggers-body-gas-tank-mod.html#post16959086

http://elocaladvertising.com/web-pics/img_1640.jpg

Checked out your thread. Looks badass man. Great job so far!

10.44 @ 129 with the left wheel up and twisted. I will post a slip and vid later although the vid is really grainy.

Here is the timeslip and video from tonight:

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/10/13/2060131_600.jpg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Byxv_gOszXw&list=UUL-E9o5N7zvUaltg8ZP9NOQ&index=1

Congrats :D 10.44 @ 3700# and laying the smack down on a stang.

Very cool man. That 1.48 60' is gettin it in that big car. Same jetting and progression as last time or did you give her a little more outta the dig?

Very cool man. That 1.48 60' is gettin it in that big car. Same jetting and progression as last time or did you give her a little more outta the dig?

I upted the tune to 63n/53f and increased the progressive from 40hp to 80hp on the hit and all in by the 60'.

I think I will back off the initial hit to 60HP next pass though. It was a little too violent feeling and the car twisted a lot. It is hard too see in the grainy low resolution video, but it is going to need an anti-roll bar in the back if I am going to hit it that hard on the line.

Even with doubling the initial hit, the 60' was only 3 hundredths quicker. I think it was all lost in chassis deflection. I would have tried a softer hit, but I got the double whammy of the track manager coming after me for the 10.40s pass and then the rain came.

I think I will back off the initial hit to 60HP next pass though. It was a little too violent feeling and the car twisted a lot. It is hard too see in the grainy low resolution video, but it is going to need an anti-roll bar in the back if I am going to hit it that hard on the line.

Is the body rolling on the suspension or is the chassis/body actually twisting? Do you have stock rubber body bushings?

Even with doubling the initial hit, the 60' was only 3 hundredths quicker. I think it was all lost in chassis deflection. I would have tried a softer hit, but I got the double whammy of the track manager coming after me for the 10.40s pass and then the rain came.

Looking back I guess you're right but to me, a 1.4-anything in the 60' is awesome for a mild mannered street car, and that 1.4 is what caught my eye. I consider my car mild mannered and I have more cam, converter and gear than you.....so I'm really impressed with the 1.48.

What's the story with the track manager? Did he give you the "slow it down" speach or the "don't come back without a 6-point" speach? I'm guessing he didn't come over to offer his congratulations......:)

Is the body rolling on the suspension or is the chassis/body actually twisting? Do you have stock rubber body bushings?


It is mostly in the suspension. Typical A-body behavior. I have Energy Urethane body mounts.


Looking back I guess you're right but to me, a 1.4-anything in the 60' is awesome for a mild mannered street car, and that 1.4 is what caught my eye. I consider my car mild mannered and I have more cam, converter and gear than you.....so I'm really impressed with the 1.48.

What's the story with the track manager? Did he give you the "slow it down" speach or the "don't come back without a 6-point" speach? I'm guessing he didn't come over to offer his congratulations......:)

Um, we came to an agreement that included some safety related things......
But, he was laughing about how hard it ran.

Cool. Sounds like a good guy then. Doing his job to keep racers safe but not being a dick about it.

Maybe not as twisted as it felt at all. Here is a low resolution preview pic from Devastation Motorsports.
http://devastationmotorsports.exposuremanager.com/scripts/expman.pl?rm=view_photo&photo_id=img_0525copy_19_7_7&file=img_0525copy_medium.jpg&dir=galleries/19/7/7&touched=1355069773

Is that both front wheels off the ground or is that just an illusion ??.
Awesome work. How long till we get a thread in the "street racing and kills" forum......?

Is that both front wheels off the ground or is that just an illusion ??.
Awesome work. How long till we get a thread in the "street racing and kills" forum......?

No illusion on the wheels up. As for street racing, not gonna happen.

maybe not as twisted as it felt at all. Here is a low resolution preview pic from devastation motorsports.
http://devastationmotorsports.exposuremanager.com/scripts/expman.pl?rm=view_photo&photo_id=img_0525copy_19_7_7&file=img_0525copy_medium.jpg&dir=galleries/19/7/7&touched=1355069773

lookin gooood!

Very nice pic.

Thanx Guys.

Something was bothering me about the pic from the track photographer. I finally put my finger on it. I know my car twists. Yet in the picture it was dead level. When I looked at the background stuff it was all leaning. He had his camera tilted to the side. So I rotated it and cropped it until all of the surroundings were upright. Now it looks right to me.

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/42/13/2062431_600.jpg

Awesome work. How long till we get a thread in the "street racing and kills" forum......?

Well. I am too old and smart for that stuff now, but back in the day, a little of that went on. Here is my only kill thread:
http://ls1tech.com/forums/street-racing-kill-stories/1288568-back-day-kill-story-455-gto-goes-down.html

What's next with the car ? Seems like a very well matched package. Curious at to whether you think there are any spots in the combination that could be improved. 1-7/8" headers maybe ?

What's next with the car ? Seems like a very well matched package. Curious at to whether you think there are any spots in the combination that could be improved. 1-7/8" headers maybe ?

We were talking about that last night. I think I am good for now. I want to break 130 which I think it will do with minor tweaks. We talked about 9 seconds, but I am going to pass on that milestone. At least for a while

At 11 seconds, it did not feel fast. Mid 10s feels really good and 60's in the 1.4s is a pretty hard launch. I get a jacked on a nitrous pass. It is strong.

A 150 shot seems safe. The plugs look great and the car sounds and feels good at that level. I think if I push it harder, stuff is going to start breaking. That car was not built with this type of ETs in mind, so the transmission, rear end and suspension was just not built for it. So, everything from here forward will be thousands of dollars.

So, I have found that magical spot where satisfaction meets wallet. :D