Tin Indian

It's not easy getting internal engine questions answered on the Corvette Forum sometimes, so I am coming back to my old reliable LS1 TECH to get an opinion.

I am thinking about replacing the cam in my daily driver 2011 Corvette GS (A6 trans / stock converter).

For any of you folks that are interested in cam numbers, I ask that you look at the comparison below between the stock Corvette LS3 cam and the aftermarket cam specs I am considering.

I am interested spec-ing out this cam on a wide 116.0 LSA which will give a very modest overlap. Even though this cam has a pretty high lift of .610” / .609” and a much greater duration than the OEM LS3 cam, I believe it will have very good idle qualities due to it's modest lobe timing.

With a modest overlap of -5.5 degrees, this cam will idle with a pretty high vacuum signal (at least a better vacuum signal than other similar cams in the 112-114 LSA range).

Just wondering what your impressions are considering the cam numbers listed below?

Thank's


Corvette LS3 OEM Cam:

Duration:
204 / 211

Lift:
.551” / .525”

LSA:
117.5

Overlap:
-27.5
_______________________________________

Custom Grind Cam:

Comp Cams Lobe Numbers:
LSL # 13016 (Intake)
LXL # 13159 (Exhaust)

Duration:
223 / 230

Lift:
.610” / .609”

LSA:
116.0

ICA:
114.0 (2 degrees advance)

Overlap:
-5.5

.

Tin Indian

Come on folks ... 74 - 88 views, and not one person here has an opinion?

This ain't the old LS1 TECH that I remember

.

35th SS

iTrader: (2)

looks good except for the lift kinda high for a daily driver.

C5natie

iTrader: (1)

^^
Really? My TSP 231/236 cam has 644/615 lift and I think it does just fine as a dd.

OP, I think thats a decent cam for a dd without too crazy of a lope. It will also depend on your supporting mods.

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

Looks about right to me... Staying with stock converter though?

Tin Indian

Just staying with the stock converter and exhaust.

I was thinking there might be an extra 30 rwhp in this cam with proper tweeking of my Chuck CoW tune.

Sales4@Texas-Speed

iTrader: (4)

For stock converter I think that is a pretty solid spec. We do a 225/230 with a 114 LSA that we have used a few times on stock converter cars with some good success, this cam seems close to that so I think it should do well.

WKMCD

iTrader: (2)

Put a set of PAC 1521's in there and check them every 50k miles. Great springs!!!

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

With the 223/230 116lsa I'd go with +5/111ICL to get the DCR very close to stock, it should also peak around 300rpms higher than stock.
IMO, I'd rather see you go with a 219(lsl)/226(lxl) 115+3 it'll drive a little better with -7.5* OL, power should peak around 200rpm higher than stock, with a stock DCR.

I'd still suggest at least 3k stall with any cam upgrade, for better performance and driveability, but that your choice if you want to stick with the stock converter.

Tin Indian

Thank's everyone for all your input.

99Bluz28 ... I am no expert, but I would think that having a full 5 degrees of advance (116 LSA with a 111 ICL) would be an awful lot of advance.

How would that effect performance vs a cam with lets say 2 degrees of ground-in advance? ... Seems like the majority of the off-the-shelf cams spec'd by various companies usually have about 2 degrees of advance ground-in (no matter what the LSA of the cam is).

I guess having a full 5 degrees of advance might increase Dynamic Compression some, but would having a full 5 degrees of advance hurt idle qualities and maybe reduce the vacuum signal the engine produces?

Thank's,
Ron

litle88

iTrader: (20)

The cam sounds good for stock cam BUT GET ANOTHER TUNER.....

I'd go with a dual spring that will match those lobes an lift for extra insurance. You should always check your springs at the beginning of a season or every couple thousand miles just to be sure. A few hours of your time is better than thousands of dollars for not taking a Lil time. just my .2

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

4-5* advance is very common in shelf grinds. +2 will have less low-end power, and a power-band that starts several hundred rpm higher. I don't see the +5* adv. causing any noticeable negative effects. Like I said before, I think the 219/226 115+3 would be a better option.

Tin Indian

Thank's Bluz & litle88

litle88 ... I was actually thinking of a set PAC 1518 Beehive Single Valve Springs (advertised .. good for .650" max lift) since this cam I mentioned above only has a max lift of .609"

Pwebbz28

iTrader: (31)

It's not just the max lift that dictates springs. It's also the ramp rate. That cam looks VERY similar to the thunder racing trutorq lvl 2 cam.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

Let me know how it turn out for you, once it's all said and done.

raymond mckinney

iTrader: (4)

That cam will drive nice with a stock stall. Should pick up some good power also.

litle88

iTrader: (20)

Agreed its the lobes that also matter what springs to use. Like I said I would use dual springs but that's my .2

Brian Tooley Racing

iTrader: (13)

That's the exact lobes and centerlines that I've used in a couple of 5.3 turbo applications. I like the cam, it has a good IVC point for your combination, and like you stated the overlap is low enough that it will idle and drive very well.

Tin Indian

Thank you Brian.

Do you think a set of PAC 1518 Beehive single valve springs will be ok with this cam?

(all bone stock LS3 internals in this 2011 GS)

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

223/231 on 115+3. Lsl lobes. Proven cam.
Dual springs , hardened pushrods and new timing chain. Ditch the pos stock tc and stupid tensioner.