Cadillac CTS-V - DMH low profile cutouts are installed... Wiring questions?? Come on in cutout guys!!

Went to the exhaust shop this morning and had my DMH low profile cutouts installed on the V. I put them right behind the headers! :drive: Install looks great! Nice and tucked up under the car. :)

As far as wiring, where did you guys run your wires? What did you tap into for your power source and where did you put the ground?

Where did you mount your switch?

Not sure i want to drill my console to mount it right by my cup holder but i might. Either that or ill just leave it hanging somewhere so i dont have to drill my pretty console. lol

Im planning to wire them up later this afternoon. Headed to get the black wheels put on the car as we speak. Was hoping to get some good suggestions and input between now and when i start.

Thanks for the help in advance fellas!! :cheers:

Mine is in the seat just in front of the lumbar adjust. Wired to the seat controls which are always hot and should easily support the motors in the cutouts. Doubtful I'd ever be opening cutouts while moving the seat. Nobody ever really sees me working the switch.

Mine is mounted up under and behind my steering wheel console. It's kind of inconvenient. But well hidden so you don't mess anything up that's good looking.

Both good ideas. I think I'm liking the seat idea cause it's low and less work to run wiring not to mention the switch would be in an inconspicuous spot. Only hesitation is that I'm going to be swapping to black seats from the grey soon so I wouldn't want to kill value on these by drilling holes in the side plastic. I was considering drilling my console but again, another thing I don't want to damage.

Anyone know what size drill bit is needed to drill for the switch?

I used some paddle bit... don't recall off the top of my head, but it may have been 7/16? Also, the hole needs to be pretty close to the lumbar switch for clearance to the track below. I drilled about halfway between the lumbar and the end of that flat surface and had to use some copper oil plug washers I found to space the switch up and off the track.

Ok. I may go ahead and drill the seat then and worst case scenario, I can always find a plug for the hole after I remove the switch later.

Would the power wire to the rear cig lighter plug work to power the cutout motors? Almost considering running the wiring to the console for now until I figure out a 100% solid solution. If I do that, I can ground to the metal under the console, use the cig lighter wire to tap into for power source, hide all wire under the console until I need it later and have the plug come out the side between the console and the drivers seat so it's easy access and still hidden since it'll lay right by the seat belt.

Im getting the dmh at the end of the month, i'm not a fan of drilling into my dash or seat... I plan on paying the extra $100 and having it run thru the homelink buttons on the sunvisor. Not sure how many of you guys have done that, seems popular in the vette world


I'm thinking something like this:
http://www.droptail.com/jsce-auto-exhaust-cutout.html

Then programming it into the homelink

Damn... That would be a legit setup since those buttons are useless for me. Could have an open and a close button. I don't know how hard it would be to wire it up to work like that though.

I think for now until I figure out exactly where I want to put it, I'm just going to run the switch to my ash tray. Already have the wires for my nitrous run there anyway so as long as I have a little room, should work nicely.

Only concern is what I should use for my power source? I want to tap into an accessory power source right? Otherwise, power will remain constant even if the key is off which would be a negative thing right?

Not really. Mine is wired to a constant power source and I have no problems. I like being able to open and close them at any time.

That's true. I'll just use the lighter plug wiring for now. Makes for a much more simple install and if I want to get fancy with it later, I can. I just want them to be functional at this point and once my wiring is done under the car, I can move the wiring around on the inside to mount the switch at anytime. Think I'm gonna run to the parts store and pick up some of those T-taps to make this a clean tap. I don't wanna go cutting and taping wiring if I may move it later. Using those t-taps seems ideal so I can clip onto my power wire and crimp a connector on the DMH wiring to plug right on that nice and clean.

Are you running a relay on yours or did u just connect directly to the wiring? Does that wire push enough power to operate the cutouts without popping the lighter fuse? If so, I won't worry about a relay on it.

As far as a ground, should I go to a ground wire on that same lighter plug harness or just use a self tapping screw and screw it down into the metal under the console?

I think you're getting a little ahead of yourself. The wiring that came with the cutouts is pretty complete. I think the taps came with it. No relay necessary as the switch is fully functional once power is connected. I don't remember connecting a ground wire either, just pos and neg.

The cig lighter should be more than ample to support these throttle motors.

Mine are welded in right before the mufflers. I wanted to put them after the headers, but I also didn't want to cut into the Kooks HF cat pipe either. Regardless, I probably can't help you with the wiring (I went through the wheel well, under the back seat for power, and through the center console). The one thing DMH should do is send a round switch...drill bit and be done. That rectangular switch makes it more difficult to mount IMHO.

I ended up putting it next to my leg on the side of the center console. Hee are some pics. Kinda hidden, but easy to access.

Nice mount spot. Mine came with a little round rocker switch so I guess they changed hardware at some point. I've run the wires from the console area under the carpet, out the little cut outs in the floor board and ran it to the cutouts with the wiring being nice and clean and tucked away using zip ties where I could. Looking good so far. Mounted the little cutouts switch in the ashtray with my nitrous switches. Worked out pretty good. A couple of t-taps and im all hooked up. :)

I want to install mine so bad but I'm missing the flanges.. Can anyone here fab some or know a vendor that sells them? Or, if someone has a pair I can borrow to have them duplicated locally please let me know. I will gladly compensate you. Even a few pics with a ruler next to them might suffice...

I ordered a set of flanges and a new wiring harness direct from dmh and they never shipped them. Then wouldn't answer the follow up phone calls or emails. I was pretty disappointed. I expected a delay based on everything I'd read about them but they said they had them in stock and would ship that week.

Wow man, that sucks. I was going to suggest ordering just the pieces u need from them. Nevermind... Lol

Well... T-taps worked flawlessly! Got it all hooked up and working now. WOW IS IT EVER LOUD! Lol I mean I knew it was going to be but damn... Almost think I'll never run them open. Lol nah... Who am I kidding!? Lol I'm sure I'll use em quite a bit. :)

I have no cats, no resonators and 3" B&B with the x-pipe. Cutouts are just a few inches behind the collector in the area where the kooks catless connectors go.

Just remember 3-4 seconds is all you should hold the button to open and close. The number one leading failure is caused by people holding the button too long.

Putting a cutout at the end of the downpipe and putting a full size muffler on the cobra was my favorite mod, it goes from literally stock sounding to mildly loud.

Thanks for the tip bro. I find myself holding it to make sure it's open or closed completely. From now on, I'll do a 3 second count to save the motors. Also since its just layin in my ash tray and not actually mounted in a fixed position, I put a little sticker on it with a O and a C so I don't have to guess anymore which way to push it. Saves straining it when I hit the wrong one first. I'll get it mounted solid soon.

It is fun though! :)

Mines similar to that but moderately loud with them closed and waking the dead loud with them open... Lol

I have my switch mounted on the underside of the driver's dash - out of sight and just little bit of a lean down to push the button.

Does anybody else experience rattle from theirs? I've had mine for a few years (DMH low profile) and they don't seem very well sealed anymore.

Also, I have to turn off the traction control or my car will sometimes kick the ABS on to a particular wheel because the inside of the car is shaking so much it thinks i've lost control of the car.

DMH has a 4 year warranty, if they arent sealing I would contact them. Mine is pretty new and it works flawlessly.

No rattle and seal perfect but they're brand new. From what I hear, the owner stands behind his product so I'm sure you could get a replacement or something if you're still under warranty.

And hmm... That's a good point. I get that same light every once in awhile. Wonder if it's from the same thing. My exhaust has a super deep rumble and vibrates, shakes the car a lot more than normal. Everytime I've had the light (3 times or so), it goes away as soon as I turn the car off and back on.

DMH has a 4 year warranty, if they arent sealing I would contact them. Mine is pretty new and it works flawlessly.

I am aware of the 4 year warranty - but they have to be removed from the car and sent to him to have the warranty work done. Inconvenient and expensive...

still love them though!

I am aware of the 4 year warranty - but they have to be removed from the car and sent to him to have the warranty work done. Inconvenient and expensive...

still love them though!

How exactly are the ones you have set up?
The ones I have are a 3 bolt flange that disconnects it from the actual piping, and then the connector. I agree it would be inconvenient... but how would it be expensive? It always sucks when things don't work as they should.

I would imagine caps for the low profile flanges aren't easy to come by without the right kind of connections. The standard caps though are easily found and cheap.

How exactly are the ones you have set up?
The ones I have are a 3 bolt flange that disconnects it from the actual piping, and then the connector. I agree it would be inconvenient... but how would it be expensive? It always sucks when things don't work as they should.

I bought these from my local racing shop here in KC. When I told them that they were rattling and I wanted to warranty them they informed me that I'd have to the parts removed and then re-welded back on. Not to mention the gaping hole that would be left from the removal of the parts.

Maybe I should call DMH and see what there return policy is and figure out exactly what I need to warranty them.

Just remember 3-4 seconds is all you should hold the button to open and close. The number one leading failure is caused by people holding the button too long.

Putting a cutout at the end of the downpipe and putting a full size muffler on the cobra was my favorite mod, it goes from literally stock sounding to mildly loud.

Just out of curiosity, and it may be more work and cost than its worth, why hasn't anyone tried putting some type of limit switch on the cutout. That way when the cutout gets to fully open, or closed, it touches the switch and stops the motor??

Just out of curiosity, and it may be more work and cost than its worth, why hasn't anyone tried putting some type of limit switch on the cutout. That way when the cutout gets to fully open, or closed, it touches the switch and stops the motor??

I'm not sure to be honest. I guess as a manufacturing standpoint to keep costs as low as possible. It's really not that hard to count to 3-4 when you want to open them or close them though.

I installed my switch right by your right leg where the gap is by the center consol and carpet. It made a perfect hiding place and was out of the way from everything. I didn't have to cut anything it fit perfect, and I ran my hot I believe from the radio so I wouldn't have a constant hot.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/racinking10/IMG_4221.jpg

I also mounted the cutouts after some catless headers and a x-pipe, i have yet to find something that screams louder than my V when I open this bad boy up;)

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/racinking10/IMG_1849.jpg

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/racinking10/IMG_1850.jpg

I think you should pull the shifter boot out and find a way to put the switch in there on the side or something. That way you can hide the switch and just put your hand over the edge of the boot on the drivers side and feel the switch to operate it. If theres a place to mount it in there.