General Maintenance & Repairs - Why the heck are my temps so hot now?

Ever since I got my car back from the build temps have been way higher than it was before I droped it off.
Coolant temps would stay mostly low 200s this time of year and trans temp would stay 180s.
Now, after the build coolant and trans temp will go 230!

Mods that were just recently done...
TEA stage 2 243 62cc - COMP 228/232 112 - TFS pushrods - LS7 lifters - P/P LS6 oil pump - LSXR timing chain - 160 t-stat - Powerbond 25% balancer - FAST 92mm intake - 42lb injectors - NW 92mm TB - SLP smooth bellow - ZO6 85mm MAF - FTP 98mm lid - Motive 3.73


Any ideas?

Things I have done to try and fix this...
Drained the coolant and did a refill making sure the air is bled out of the system.
I ditched the flex a lite fin and tube trans cooler for a b+m 14400 btu cooler and this cooler actually runs hotter!

Things that could be raising the temps more than before...
Lockup on my stall is 42mph now instead of 38mph.

Could higher compression make a car run hotter?
Can 3.73 gears make the trans run hotter?

Im going to try getting this trans cooler off of my hot radiator and move it to dope style. They are probably not helping eachother by touching. Tried dope style with stock stall few years ago and wasnt impressed. Ill try it again. Anything has got to be better than 230 trans temp! :bang:

when are the fans coming on?

higher compression will create more heat.

when are the fans coming on?

IDK the exact temp. I asked my tuner and told me 190 or so.
Pretty sure low is on around 190 and high is on around 200.
Before the build I had stock t stat with low on at 203, high on 208 and the efficiency was great. Now with 160 t stat and fans that come on even sooner it sucks. I dont get it.:confused:


higher compression will create more heat.

I have heard of this but to what extent? This change in cooling efficiency is just plain ridiculous!

check for anything clogged or blocking airflow. even if you have just check to see if you missed anything. right after my build my temps would get hot with my AC on.


a plastic bag got sucked under my car blocking air to my condenser. my H/C/I setup doesnt get noticeably hotter on brutal days with my AC blasting.

check for anything clogged or blocking airflow. even if you have just check to see if you missed anything. right after my build my temps would get hot with my AC on.


a plastic bag got sucked under my car blocking air to my condenser. my H/C/I setup doesnt get noticeably hotter on brutal days with my AC blasting.

Iv been under and through my car many times. I was under there today doing new o2s, band clamps, and did the new trans cooler. Theres nothing blocking airflow. Everything that is there now was there before the build.

ill still stick with some obvious stuff. check for leaks where they might be hard to spot.


how old is your water pump?

Its a completely different build so that plus running a ram air and it being the middle of summer all take effect. Assuming everything is working as it should you could start by lowering fan speeds to get a jump on the heat.

Also you can run the fans off a switch for hotter days. You can splice into the low and high fan pcm wires and ground them with a switch. Probably cost you about 5 bucks and a hour of your time. Using the fans this way you can also put your trans cooler back where it was and the fans will work for that and the rad. I think that will work better than the dope style.

ill still stick with some obvious stuff. check for leaks where they might be hard to spot.


how old is your water pump?


Leaks where?

Water pump...Idk how old it is but from what I gather our years came with water pumps only excepting a t stat with a fixed housing. My t stat comes right out of the housing so must mean I have a newer style water pump?
When I drained and refiled the system I watched the coolant shooting through the top hose. Looks like it was working fine.


Its a completely different build so that plus running a ram air and it being the middle of summer all take effect. Assuming everything is working as it should you could start by lowering fan speeds to get a jump on the heat.

Also you can run the fans off a switch for hotter days. You can splice into the low and high fan pcm wires and ground them with a switch. Probably cost you about 5 bucks and a hour of your time. Using the fans this way you can also put your trans cooler back where it was and the fans will work for that and the rad. I think that will work better than the dope style.


Once again, I had the ram air and trans cooler on my radiator in the same place before the build and it all worked PERFECT.
I dont even have a/c. The condensor is not even there to be in the way.

The new trans cooler is in the same spot as the old one. We are mis- communicating lol

Iv read a few posts concerning the aftermarket pulley slowing down the water pump making things a little hotter. Is there any truth to this?

Iv read a few posts concerning the aftermarket pulley slowing down the water pump making things a little hotter. Is there any truth to this?

i havent had any problems like that.




is your TSTAT opening? does it run ok when its cold?

Leaks where?

Water pump...Idk how old it is but from what I gather our years came with water pumps only excepting a t stat with a fixed housing. My t stat comes right out of the housing so must mean I have a newer style water pump?
When I drained and refiled the system I watched the coolant shooting through the top hose. Looks like it was working fine.





Once again, I had the ram air and trans cooler on my radiator in the same place before the build and it all worked PERFECT.
I dont even have a/c. The condensor is not even there to be in the way.

The new trans cooler is in the same spot as the old one. We are mis- communicating lol

There is no mis-communication. You have a totally different engine combination now, you cant expect it to run exactly the same just because your have the same airflow to the rad. I think your at the point that you need to find other ways to get the heat out, not assume something is wrong. I was offering advice to ways to do that. Good luck.

i havent had any problems like that.




is your TSTAT opening? does it run ok when its cold?

I assume it is. How can I actually tell? I know its a new t stat.
Yea, the car runs the same when colder.



There is no mis-communication. You have a totally different engine combination now, you cant expect it to run exactly the same just because your have the same airflow to the rad. I think your at the point that you need to find other ways to get the heat out, not assume something is wrong. I was offering advice to ways to do that. Good luck.

You said "you can also put your trans cooler back where it was" when I never changed the location of my trans cooler. So yes, you mis understood. Not a big deal man.
Who said I expect it to run exactly the same?! The coolant temp is 30 degrees hotter with a 160 t stat and fans that come on sooner. Trans temp is 40 degrees hotter. Im not expecting it to run exactly the same as before but come on man these are big changes.

You can have your tuner or you set your fans to some lower temps to engage to help with temps when you're not moving.

You can have your tuner or you set your fans to some lower temps to engage to help with temps when you're not moving.

My tuner said he set the fans like he did so my high spd fans were not running all the time. But they already do that as it is. I would really hate to have them running even more. IDK what good it will do seeing how it dosent seem like the fans were even lowering any temps yesterday. Shoot.

The b+m cooler location was the problem for both trans temps AND coolant temps. Thanks for the help :D

http://ls1tech.com/forums/16638741-post14.html

Don;'t know how many years I've been telling people...you cannot lay a tranny cooler against the radiator. It makes that entire surface area more than useless...it makes it a HOT SPOT.

Do it like I did mine 10 years ago......

I now have one on each side.....dual coolers for the tranny. Running in Parallel. Coolant temps never changed one degree bu using two of these......as long as they are NOT touching the radiator, or too close to it.

.

Don;'t know how many years I've been telling people...you cannot lay a tranny cooler against the radiator. It makes that entire surface area more than useless...it makes it a HOT SPOT.

Do it like I did mine 10 years ago......

I now have one on each side.....dual coolers for the tranny. Running in Parallel. Coolant temps never changed one degree bu using two of these......as long as they are NOT touching the radiator, or too close to it.

.

I know what your saying but I had the cooler on my radiator for a year before this build and the cooling system was better than it is now! Something with the build made this car run much hotter. IDK what happened.

Get a 93-96 lt1 radiator, it should help you run cooler.

Was all the air bled out...?

Get a 93-96 lt1 radiator, it should help you run cooler.

I was thinking of that when I have the funds.


Was all the air bled out...?


I drained the system and did install universitys method for getting the air out/filled with new dexcool.

...
I drained the system and did install universitys method for getting the air out/filled with new dexcool.Did you bleed air out from the steam crossover tube...?

Did you bleed air out from the steam crossover tube...?

I did it through the metal hose on the tb which is described in install university http://www.installuniversity.com/install_university/index.htm