mk3cn4

iTrader: (3)

I've done a ton of reading and have all the wiring diagrams, but have a question.

Getting a MAF CEL code, checked MAF with ignition ON and I get the 5v fine testing to middle ground pin to the yellow wire, but not when I test middle ground pin to the 12V on the pink wire. So MAF has no power apparently.

The underhood IGN fuse is good and it has a good solid 12V on it, just no 12V coming out of the harness on the MAF.

According to the wiring diagrams I am seeing (see attached), this is just a straight wire from the MAF to the bottom of the underhood fusebox, right? So this means that wire is open somewhere between in the middle of the harness somewhere? Here's the portion of the diagram where I put a red line showing the wire.



The harness looks real intimidating, am considering just running a fresh wire from that fuse around and back to the MAF 12V power pin, is that a stupid idea?

The previous owner has cut off the rear O2 wire harnesses, it didn't pass through there in some way, did it?

What would you do if you were me, average Joe with limited resources?

Interesting note, the car runs just fine, I assume it fell back to MAP mode I have been reading about.

EDIT: is there a junction box along the way in this path I can check this voltage at? Pics of harnesses I am seeing don't seem to show any junction I can test at.

Thanks.

MontecarloDrag

iTrader: (3)

Many of the pink wires are spliced, so it's possible it was cut when the rear o2 were deleted.

It's safe to run a new wire to supply the MAF, just make sure you use a fuse and 18 gauge wire, solder it and isolate with heat shrink tubing to avoid any problems.

mk3cn4

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the reply, I was going to just run it off the protected side of its correct fuse on the block, and am going to parallel it as much as I can with the current wire.

I hate rigging stuff like this but I really hate spending 40 man hours tracing one wire through this harness too.

mk3cn4

iTrader: (3)

More details that sorta prove your statement "many of the pink wires are spliced"... I also have P0135 and P0155 which is the O2 heaters, and guess what.. no 12V on those pinks either.

I bet this retard that sold me this car spliced in the O2 extenders wrong, caused a short on pink or baked it on the header, and did something dumb like jumper the fuse or something and probably cooked the wire feeding all of this stuff.

pdsq98gt

If that's the case, you must have an open between the fuse and s104.

mk3cn4

iTrader: (3)

Been trying to find these answers myself, I promise, but I can't seem to find where s104 is.

One post said "In the engine harness, about 22 cm from the transmission breakout" but that really doesn't help me very much.

I have seen tons of schematics but none that really nail placement of wires in engine bay where harness junctions are etc, anyone have that diagram?

MontecarloDrag

iTrader: (3)

I think the best option for you is to repair the harness.
It's not that hard. You already have the wiring diagrams, only buy a six pack of beer and use a weekend to check wires from fuse box to the supplied circuits.

I Bet it's going to be a stupid easy thing

mk3cn4

iTrader: (3)

Just saw that he has at least one o2 extender spliced way up near that fusebox where the MAF power fuse is, and also am seeing code for skipshift solenoid which traced backwards is also going to this same PINK wire!!!

Since it's effecting so much, I'd bet it's way back near the source, just looking for s104 right now.

Tomorrow when I get some light I'll check just from that O2 splice to that fusebox, that has to be a short run to follow.

mk3cn4

iTrader: (3)

Searched for a while, at a loss here guys, can anyone give me a clear location of where s104 is? '02 T/A M6 if that matters.

mk3cn4

iTrader: (3)

Getting closer, can anyone tell me where in these pictures...

1) where does the underhood fusebox attach, the box with the MAF power IGN fuse?

2) where this s104 is located?

I think there might be another diagram for the power stuff, I see nothing where the fusebox attaches, anyone?

MontecarloDrag

iTrader: (3)

1) The underhood fusebox you need to check is the one nearest the driver side headlight. You need to loosen the bolts and inspect underneath it, because the harness plugs to it from below. (number 3 on the picture)

2) S104 is inside the harness, like 6 inches from the PCM's branch (towards the engine). You need to disassemble the harness and take it out from the loom to follow the pink wire to the splice. S104 is just pink wires soldered and taped together.
I think this splice is not the problem, there must be a cut wire between the fuse and S104, that's why several things aren't powered.

Find the wire which comes from the fuse, follow it towards S104 and you will find the problem.

The pictures you posted are of standalone harnesses, they have several things missing because they are for engine swaps, so they are of no use for you.

mk3cn4

iTrader: (3)

Awesome. You guys rock.

I think I will tear into this today and try to find the actual problem now instead of rigging it, now that I have a more educated narrow focus and won't be randomly chasing through miles of enginebay wiring.

I will be certain to post my findings here for future searchers.

mk3cn4

iTrader: (3)

SOLVED.

Ok, the wiring harness was WAY too complicated for me to start tearing into it, so my plan was to run power from the fusebox to the closest non-powered item and allow that to backfeed power to the other stuff.

This is a little embarrassing but I'm willing to sacrifice some pride as promised to let everyone who helped and future searchers know what the problem was.

The post above mentioned that the fuse box was nearest the headlight, and I was going to correct the poster because my fuse was clearly labeled as being in the second fusebox back from the headlight. (I think you see where this is going). That was clue #1.

Then, I went to check to see which side of the fuse was the hot side for placing my extension and noticed that there was power there even with the key off, and knew that wasn't right. So that's when it clicked and I put 2 and 2 together.

Long story short, the FUSE BOX LIDS WERE SWAPPED and I was working off of the wrong fuse!!! They are laid out very close, but not identical.

I hit the correct fuse with a meter and the fuse is bad even though you have to look hard to see it's bad.

So, replaced the fuse and it's all powering, as soon as I get the fusebox installed back in I'll clear the codes and see what we get, but I'm sure this was it.

Thanks again everyone for the help.

MontecarloDrag

iTrader: (3)

Excelent news, glad to hear you fixed it without patches.

Nice troubleshooting by the way

mk3cn4

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, as a quick side note, this fixed I think 4 or 5 codes, both front O2 sensor heaters, the MAF power, EVAP solenoid I think, I think there was a skipship code in there, can't remember for sure since they're all gone but the CEL is OFF NOW.

I thought I'd be chasing these codes one by one for weeks but these items must all be powered by this same fuse.

Mark Mark Russell

So Whatchu replace do you have a picture because I’m having this problem like hell and can’t figure out what to do in my 2001 camaro with egr deletes

sowbelle

So who is going to tell him he is responding to a seven year old thread

G Atsma

Not me....

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Did the internet just break?

Because I think it did.

ChopperDoc

Lol. You guys are mean. So mean. Still funny though.