Lil'Felt

Ok so I finally got my gto. First things first I want to do the drivetrain and make way to the engine. What's the best axles, driveshaft and rear diff mods to make it extremely durable and prevent anything from breaking like tooth picks. Next would be suspension. I already have drag bags. Wanted to do everything I could to keep the rear tires from breaking loose like all hell. And last but not least what should I do for my head and cam build. Intake, cam, heads, and anything I'm missing.
Car is a 04 gto 6spd with a lq9 ls2 intake I believe snd a cam have to get the specs(papersin the car) pace setter long tube headers slp loud mouth after that. K&n cai which I am going to get rid of by the way. Thanks guy I want a nice mid 11sec that's clean and done right

svede1212

iTrader: (3)

It'd going to cost a lot just for the drivetrain and suspension. Figure on clutch, drive shaft, stubs and half shafts to start with, about $3,000+ . Look to the Drive shaft shop for that. If you want to do the whole suspension figure on $2,500 doing a budget system. Lovells is a great supplier for suspension. The engine is the same LS1 in all the late model Corvettes and fBodies. You should have a LS6 intake manifold on their stock. If you want to go all out a FAST with TB should set you back $1,300. The heads and cam options are extensive and up to $4,000 for them and supporting mods. Don't forget headers at another $1,000+ and you'll need drag wheels and tires for another $600. I have a modest build and have probably $12,000 in my car in mods.

thehazz12

Sounds like you want to spend some money... You asked a lot of vague questions as far as the intake, cam, and heads go. You're gonna' end up getting a ton of different answers from people about what has worked well for them.
I believe BMR is supposed to have some decent axles for these cars. If you want a good driveshaft, get in touch with DSS for a 1-piece. If you want a stronger rear, go ahead and do the 8.8 swap, but get all of that figured out before you upgrade your axles and driveshaft. You wanna' keep tConsidering it's a RWD platform, not wanting the rear tires to break loose is a given. You want traction? Get a good tire. The drag bags main purpose is to essentially turn the IRS into a solid rear eliminating wheel hop and thus improving traction. Get rid of the K&N for an OTRCAI...Svede's is the best and has been proven time and time again. Again, saying you want a mid 11s car is pretty vague. You can plan out a build so many different ways with that information.

Lil'Felt

I want a car that handles good in the turns when I'm street driving in. Yet will still click off a 11.3-11.5 on motor with a good head n cam package. I planned on keeping the stock diff m just upgrading it. I was told by a friend. To go with a ls6 intake, svede cai, afr heads not sure which ones and a decent size cam. Keep the opinions coming guys.
I welcome the comments offers and sarcasm.

scphilli

iTrader: (2)

Please don't take this the wrong way, but your goals are not going to be easily achievable. It will take a lot more than the best H/C package to bang out mid to low 11s on motor. In addition to all the best accompanying bolt-ons, major weight reductions would be required

Lil'Felt

How fast could I go with a h/c package and good chassis work

batboy

iTrader: (6)

For drive train parts, the best to get are Gforce1320 half shafts and inner stubs. For bushings the most important one to get is the front radius rod bushings, Lovell from Kollar Racing is reasonable priced.

svede1212

iTrader: (3)

The biggest problem with a mid 11 second car, especially with a stick, is launching the car. My '04 is a mid 11 second car. . . however the only indication of that is the trap speeds not the ETs. Getting the car to launch mid 1.x 60's is extremely difficult. Once you get the suspension and drive train parts on it's best if you have some 15" rear wheels with drag tires that can wrinkle their sidewalls to absorb the shock of a hard launch and not spin.

If you can find some cheap 243 (LS6, LS2) heads you can get them ported and upgraded valves for in the $1,xxxs and get very close to the best heads. With LTs, intake, exhaust, heads, cam you can hit the mid-4xx RWHP.

Not sure what's going on with gForce right now. I ordered an anti-wheel hop axle from him a week ago and despite writing don't know where it's at or when it will ship.

409CISecondGen

iTrader: (2)

It sounds like you should be dropping your car off at a reputable shop, telling them how fast you want to go and your budget, and returning a few weeks later.

Summerwolf

iTrader: (3)

I run 118 traps with a street sweeper high torque, ported 243's, slp UDP, svede1212 intake, pacesetter longtubes, and a custom three inch magnaflow dual setup.

I also did that on 18 inch rims with street tires.

I've changed my setup a lot since then but you can do it on a budget. I don't know where the LQ motor is coming in to play, or any of your other questions but if you do a lot of searching and take a lot of input from knowledgeable members you can do it on a budget.

svede1212

iTrader: (3)

I have to sort out a vibration on my car (I already have a 1 piece DS) and see what I trap with my 243 heads. You're about where I think I'll be.

Dyno Junkie

Albeit our car is an auto, however when it had an LS1 it made several passes that trapped at 117.8mph.
This was a fairly mild set up;

243 heads
FAST 90
RamJet OTRCAI
Speed Inc Comp Cam 228 228 .588 .588 113
4>2>1 headers - 1 5/8">2">3"
3" metal cats
2 1/2" twin system

Lil'Felt

So far i have listed for purchase: 3in 1 piece driveshaft, heavy duty axles, not sure what shocks and spring set up yet. Probably keep the stock gear ratio. Go with a 15 or 16 size rim with a good radial. Otrcai by svede ls6 intake ls6 heads port and polished with big valves. Not sure what cam size yet but want a nice aggressive cam that can still be street driven. Heavy duty valve springs not sure what rockets I want either. I think that's it but let me know what you guys think and any opinions. I like 100% honest responses thanks guys