Cadillac CTS-V - Lets talk clutches!

I'm a relative newb to the CTS-V owner world, didn't have mine but for a few months before I deployed to Afghanistan. I'm looking into some reliability/performance mods to order when I get closer to going home. I see numerous people running the LS7 clutch kit in bolt on cars and they love it. Anyone running it in a cammed car? If so, how is it holding up? Any problems with it?

I will be running the EPS 222/226 .596/.598 112LSA thats currently in my Impala SS (the Impala will be getting the 226/234 .605”/.612”) if that matters. I'm waiting on a response from Creative Steel about the 8.8 kit, as I already have a line on a center section out of a Cobra, seeing as my stock rear was already leaking when I left. Any help would be appreciated.

im at 485/480 with the ls7 set up on my maggied V. its holding up just fine and ive been beating the hell out of it. itll be fine for ur car

That works for me lol. I know SDPC has them, are there any other places you recommend? I've read that some people used the slave cylinder spacer, some didn't. Any particular reason that you would know of?

Diamond stage 3 here with 17lb flywheel. Holding my car just fine on the shot. Light pedal... Just grabby lol

NeverSatisfied (withhisexhaust) How do you like the Ground Control kit? How does it ride? I'm not looking to ride ridiculously low, just get rid of some of this damn fender gap.

LS9 kit from Katech after I yanked the Monster which chattered so much it would loosen a filling besides everything else bolted to the motor.

That isn't even considering the red spots on the floor from fluid being rattled out of the vent pipe.

Second on the ls9 clutch from katech, works great.

NeverSatisfied (withhisexhaust) How do you like the Ground Control kit? How does it ride? I'm not looking to ride ridiculously low, just get rid of some of this damn fender gap.

Lol! I love it man! Rides better than stock. Much more predictable and rebounds much quicker than it used to. Seems to soak up the bumps better now than the stock suspension. I think for what I'm doing, the 500/550 combo is perfect. It's stiff enough that handling was greatly improved but still soft enough that it doesn't beat the shit outta u while driving it. :) I have my rear as low as it will go at just over 26" from the fender lip to the ground (sits right on the tires which are 275/40's) and the front just slightly lower than that since I'm running the 255/40 up there. Perfect stance, looks slammed, no clearance issues... I'm happy.

LS7 here and no complaints. Will soon test it out with my maggie, once I get that sorted out.

Sounds like my best bet is either the LS9X/R or the LS7. Where's the best place to get them? I know Katech has the LS9X/R clutch setups, but who sells the LS7 besides SDPC?

edit: Thats one hell of aprice difference between the LS7 and the LS9! Shat!! Good thing I'm saving my pennies.

I believe the LS9 is a twin disc, hence the twin price.

Bud, that would explain it. I think I'm gonna have to stick with the LS7...I don't think I can justify dropping that kinda coin on a clutch...I feel that money is better served in the CS 8.8 conversion.

The GM LS7 clutch is available on eBay for $300:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-GM-LS7-Z06-Corvette-Clutch-Pressure-Plate-Disc-OE-/280907021013?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item41675cfad5&vxp=mtr#ht_500wt_1180

There's a version with the matching 25 lb steel flywheel for about $500. The whole assembly like that weighs 57 lbs. Personally, I'd recommend avoiding that and getting an F1 Racing (20.4 lb chromoly steel--$220) or Fidanza (13 lb aluminum) flywheel. If you want to buy my old F1 Racing flywheel, send me a PM.

Edit: I just found out that F1 Racing is now selling five complete kits with a powdercoated LS7 pressure plate, friction disc, 20.4 lb chromoly flywheel, replacement pilot bearing, 26 spline tool, and what appears to be a PowerTorque CS2529 LS7 slave (which I've been beating the snot out of for the last 15,000 miles). DAMN IT! I could've saved a buttload. Depending on which friction disc you choose, these things seem reasonable:

Level 1 @ $585 (good for 565 HP / 510 TQ) (http://www.ebay.com/itm/F1-STAGE-1-CLUTCH-KIT-SLAVE-FLYWHEEL-CORVETTE-C6-6-0L-LS2-6-2L-LS3-Z06-7-0L-LS7-/160862270840?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2574237578&vxp=mtr#ht_3348wt_1397)
(...)
Level 4 @ $645 (good for 660 HP / 610 TQ) (http://www.ebay.com/itm/F1-STAGE-4-CLUTCH-KIT-SLAVE-FLYWHEEL-CORVETTE-C6-6-0L-LS2-6-2L-LS3-Z06-7-0L-LS7-/400314865826?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d34a018a2&vxp=mtr#ht_3348wt_1397)
Level MF @ $659 (good for 625 HP / 578 TQ) (http://www.ebay.com/itm/F1-MF-RACE-CLUTCH-KIT-SLAVE-FLYWHEEL-CORVETTE-C6-6-0L-LS2-6-2L-LS3-Z06-7-0L-LS7-/400314866221?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d34a01a2d&vxp=mtr#ht_3782wt_1397)

Disclaimer: I haven't tried any of F1's pressure plates. Anyone try one of these?

Fawk! If only I could look at Ebay from work! I'll check those out when I get off.

Is your flywheel the same as the one in the kits you listed? It wouldn't hurt to have a spare I think.

I don't see any mention of the spacer that I've seen floating around. Is that only if you are using the CTS-V slave?

Fawk! If only I could look at Ebay from work! I'll check those out when I get off.

Is your flywheel the same as the one in the kits you listed? It wouldn't hurt to have a spare I think.

I don't see any mention of the spacer that I've seen floating around. Is that only if you are using the CTS-V slave?

Yep, same one. Worked like a charm (ran it for about 8,000 miles), but I wanted something even lighter because I was transitioning to an ATI SuperDamper that added 5-10 lbs to my drivetrain's rotating mass. If you want pictures, let me know.

Here's a picture of the Stage 1 clutch in case you can see it here while you're at work:

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/F1-STAGE-1-CLUTCH-KIT-SLAVE-FLYWHEEL-CORVETTE-C6-6-0L-LS2-6-2L-LS3-Z06-7-0L-LS7-/00/s/NjAwWDkwMA==/$T2eC16R,!zoE9s5ne3OyBQJTmBJkWw~~60_57.JPG

My clutch was $799. Holds 700HP. No chatter. Pedal feels very close to stock. I wouldn't dismiss diamond as an option if you want a bad ass clutch without losing any drivability.

490rwhp here with LS7. Holds fine for me. Very good price too

My plan was to always go ls7, but if you plan on putting a rear and launching the car hard it will not hold up.

I'm putting the rear in for insurance. Just in case I do decide to launch it one day, I know the rear is the least of my worries. I'll look into Diamond too Neversatisfied.

Luke @ Lindsay Cadillac has the full LS7 kit in stock for a pretty good price. Also if you go with the LS7 Slave you won't need a spacer.
Be sure to pick up a remote bleeder from Tick Performance while you're in there and may as well add some ARP flywheel and pressure plate bolts for good measure...

I went with an Exedy for full time track duty

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-QJASp7CEnMA/T60znkN9KGI/AAAAAAAAA6E/3mhMAz-N__o/s800/IMG-20120510-00054.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-psL0kR8PhVU/T7Ko5hB5TdI/AAAAAAAAA7c/P-wbOqwQNz0/s800/IMG-20120515-00061.jpg

My clutch was $799. Holds 700HP. No chatter. Pedal feels very close to stock. I wouldn't dismiss diamond as an option if you want a bad ass clutch without losing any drivability.

I'll second this. Although not in a V, I had a LS7 clutch and stepped up to a Diamond stage 3. It took everything my 408 threw at it for about 40k miles. 5k dumps on cheater slicks at the track, and worked great as a daily driver.

In my years in the pursuit of going fast, I've learned not to cut corners and would rather buy 1 over engineered clutch and be done with it for a while. I've seen people do fine with the LS7 clutch in lighter cars, and some not so well and the clutch wasn't engineered for a 4k+ lb car. IMO isn't not worth the risk of the cost of 2 clutches and labor X2 in short order in an attempt to save a couple hundred $ now. Just my $.02.

Second the Tick remote bleeder. Can't believe I forgot. While you're down there, you should change your transmission fluid, install UUC shifter bushings, and a short shifter.

Speaking of changing the tranny fluid... What kind do y'all run? Is there a drain plug on the bottom of the tranny or does it have to be sucked out?

Speaking of changing the tranny fluid... What kind do y'all run? Is there a drain plug on the bottom of the tranny or does it have to be sucked out?

There is a drain plug, but to fill it you have to remove the sensor from the side of it. Remove the sensor first, then remove the drain plug. I just use Valvoline Synthetic.

Level 4 @ $645 (good for 660 HP / 610 TQ) (http://www.ebay.com/itm/F1-STAGE-4-CLUTCH-KIT-SLAVE-FLYWHEEL-CORVETTE-C6-6-0L-LS2-6-2L-LS3-Z06-7-0L-LS7-/400314865826?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d34a018a2&vxp=mtr#ht_3348wt_1397)


That has to be harsh for street driving... look, there are no springs on the puck style disk.

My clutch was $799. Holds 700HP. No chatter. Pedal feels very close to stock. I wouldn't dismiss diamond as an option if you want a bad ass clutch without losing any drivability.

When you purchased the Diamond clutch, did it come ready to install? Other than a remote bleeder, did you need anything else for it to work in a Gen I V?

There is a drain plug, but to fill it you have to remove the sensor from the side of it. Remove the sensor first, then remove the drain plug. I just use Valvoline Synthetic.

The transmission fluid sensor doubles as the drain plug. It's located on the end of the tranny, passenger side. The fill plug is halfway up the drivers side of the transmission. Impossible to miss.

Shane at Thunder Racing recommends 3 quarts of Redline D4 ATF and 1 quart of Redline MTL 70W80 GL-4. Having tried everything from Mobil 1 ATF to Royal Purple Synchromax, I heartily agree with Shane. That Redline blend is not only the quietest mix I've used, it comes out the cleanest. Mobil 1 ATF made my transmission sound like a diesel truck engine.

Second the Tick remote bleeder. Can't believe I forgot. While you're down there, you should change your transmission fluid, install UUC shifter bushings, and a short shifter.

Thats the plan. UUC Shirt shifter, UUC or CS Bushings, Fluid change, and whatever else I can do to tighten up the shifter. Had problems with finding reverse and it popping out. I have some Marines that work with me that have access to a machine shop (like legit machine shop, not engine type, but fabricating just about any damn thing), and I'm going to see about getting some aluminum/bronze/brass bushings made for the shift linkage and test them out. If I can get som access to some Derlin stock, I'll even give that a shot too.

I have a Stage 3 Monster in mine. I'll keep it until I get some drag radials and run at the track. It still squeaks, and chatters sometimes. Very annoying for a DD, but grips harder than a virgin giving a handy.


Definitely get a remote line!!

I have a Stage 3 Monster in mine. I'll keep it until I get some drag radials and run at the track. It still squeaks, and chatters sometimes. Very annoying for a DD, but grips harder than a virgin giving a handy.


Definitely get a remote line!!

I think I'll end up going with the Diamond Stage 2 or 3, LS7 slave, Remote Bleeder (Tick or whomever), UUC shifter, bushings, and the obligatory fluid change. Anything I'm missing?

I think I'll end up going with the Diamond Stage 2 or 3, LS7 slave, Remote Bleeder (Tick or whomever), UUC shifter, bushings, and the obligatory fluid change. Anything I'm missing?

Check and see whether what you're buying includes new flywheel bolts. They're torqued to yield, so you can't replace them. You'll also need the 26 spline alignment tool.

If you don't already have a transmission jack, buy the Harbor Freight one that costs about $75. If you think you can get by without it, I'll PM you my cell phone number and we'll have a conversation about how that tool reduced a two-man, multi-day sweat-a-thon to a one-day, one-man job.

Check and see whether what you're buying includes new flywheel bolts. They're torqued to yield, so you can't replace them. You'll also need the 26 spline alignment tool.

Thanks for that info. If anything, I'll throw ARPs in while I'm down there...since I'm doing everything else. Oh and I'll send you a PM about that flywheel.

Thanks for that info. If anything, I'll throw ARPs in while I'm down there...since I'm doing everything else. Oh and I'll send you a PM about that flywheel.

I used ARP's.....no problems here. Get a lightweight FW while you are at it.

This might help if you are doing it yourself. I did the clutch install awhile back....

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2004-2007-cadillac-cts-v-performance/181141-monster-clutch-install.html

The transmission fluid sensor doubles as the drain plug. It's located on the end of the tranny, passenger side. The fill plug is halfway up the drivers side of the transmission. Impossible to miss.

Shane at Thunder Racing recommends 3 quarts of Redline D4 ATF and 1 quart of Redline MTL 70W80 GL-4. Having tried everything from Mobil 1 ATF to Royal Purple Synchromax, I heartily agree with Shane. That Redline blend is not only the quietest mix I've used, it comes out the cleanest. Mobil 1 ATF made my transmission sound like a diesel truck engine.

Lol, you are correct. I haven't changed my fluid in so long I forgot.

Be sure to read through a thread i made right after installing my ls7 clutch I tried to gather all the tips i learned from reading the forums/doing it the hard way.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v/1571879-more-ls7-any-clutch-slave-flywheel-install-tips.html

The home depot pvc bushings for the transmission end of the remote shifter seemed worthwhile. Also brian already has a set of brass bushings for the end of the shift rod on the transmission which are reasonably priced (considering you don't have to sit around and take the measurements and do your own trial and error)

I would hesitate about making everything in the linkage solid, you are tying the transmission (somewhat free to move in the body) to the body and need some play to allow this motion to happen.

I agree if you do this without a trans jack you are crazy, even if you are strong enough to hold the transmission up there, getting it aligned right and finagled in there is a lot to do while supporting the weight of the transmission

Quentin,

From my experience the best clutch is the LS7..

Check out that thread titled "it's alive" and check out what tony mamo did for that guys v. I think he has a custom grind cam 114 LSA.

Mofo when u get back lemme know ill head down there and we can get a beer or 50

My stock LS7 took a shit and so did the SPEC stage 3 LS7 clutch after I installed the Maggie. I picked an Exedy like junior posted and it is THE clutch to set you sights on. Absolutely outstanding clutch.

The home depot pvc bushings for the transmission end of the remote shifter seemed worthwhile. Also brian already has a set of brass bushings for the end of the shift rod on the transmission which are reasonably priced (considering you don't have to sit around and take the measurements and do your own trial and error)

Per our conversation the other day, I don't believe Brian is making the brass bushings anymore. I think the PVC is the only option now.

Mantic clutches are what the vette guys have been raving about.

Mantic clutches are what the vette guys have been raving about.

That's the aussie clutch right?

The diamond kit came with everything i needed. I love it! Pedal isn't heavy and it grabs like a champ. No chatter either which is a must IMO.

Thanks for the help on the tranny fluid. Who carries that redline stuff Fuzzy? Planning to do an oil and tranny fluid change today. Might change the diff fluid too but its not that old yet.

Per our conversation the other day, I don't believe Brian is making the brass bushings anymore. I think the PVC is the only option now.

Huh i must have got lucky about a month ago and bought one of his last set. The PVC bushings go in a different place though, those go at the end of the remote shifter support. where the brass bushing goes on the other end of the shifter. If he has access to a machine shop they shouldn't be too complicated to make (measure a few diameters and widths and you are good to go. You just need to be tight on the tolerances to get the benefit. I would look at how much play yours has and see if it is worth it, I don't think mine was really sloppy, but i had the bushings and the transmission out so I was going to put them in.

Centerforce DFX (12") clutch, LS1 flywheel and LS7 Slave. 20K miles on clutch and still holding strong. Smooth like stock. I previously had this same kit in my Camaro and transfered it over to the V. The Camaro was making 500 rwhp and I was running 315 M/T drag radials. Its a highly overlooked clutch setup and is bullet-proof. Do not confuse this setup with their 11" DFX clutch. ITs entirely different.

That's the aussie clutch right?

Yep. I know if I exceed my stock LS9 clutch then I am going with the mantic

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=150784

Surprised nobody's warning about issues they've had with lightened flywheels... IE the 19lb RAM FW that's available with the LS7 kit from SD. No personal experience, but was advised by many NOT to bother with the lightened FW.

Surprised nobody's warning about issues they've had with lightened flywheels... IE the 19lb RAM FW that's available with the LS7 kit from SD. No personal experience, but was advised by many NOT to bother with the lightened FW.

19 lbs isn't that light. Especially not if you have an aftermarket harmonic damper on the crank. The ATI 917266 weighs 6.75 lbs. So although I have a 13 lb Fidanza flywheel, my total mass is 19.75 lbs.

Granted, you need to be much more aware about your throttle position during take-off, but that's going to be true of anything compared to the 50.1 lb dual-mass boat anchor that came with these cars.

Per our conversation the other day, I don't believe Brian is making the brass bushings anymore. I think the PVC is the only option now.

Why go brass when you can choose ball bearings? I love this new DLSR, by the way.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v219/QuicksilverG4/DSC00096.jpg

Surprised nobody's warning about issues they've had with lightened flywheels... IE the 19lb RAM FW that's available with the LS7 kit from SD. No personal experience, but was advised by many NOT to bother with the lightened FW.

If you don't have a lightweight FW, or never driven a V with one, then don't send warnings on something you are actually missing out on. The revs/decels are waaaayyyy faster.

I've had my 18lb in for a couple years now. I love it.

If you don't have a lightweight FW, or never driven a V with one, then don't send warnings on something you are actually missing out on. The revs/decels are waaaayyyy faster.

I've had my 18lb in for a couple years now. I love it.

Eeeeaaaasyyy buddy. I didn't say nor indicate that I had first hand experience. I've done a fair amount of research though. I also had a very informative phone conversation with one of the vendors here who sells and installs a lot of ls7 clutch kits. His advice warned of many issues enherent with the lightened flywheel being ran on otherwise un/lightly modified V1's. Tunes, Maggies, cams, etc. change things - but that's not what I was referring to.

LS9x clutch from katech has a 12lb flywheel if I'm remembering correctly. Runs like a champ on an unmodified V. I know because this was my first mod when I picked up this car...It being a twin disk clutch helps, smooth as can be.

Eeeeaaaasyyy buddy. I didn't say nor indicate that I had first hand experience. I've done a fair amount of research though. I also had a very informative phone conversation with one of the vendors here who sells and installs a lot of ls7 clutch kits. His advice warned of many issues enherent with the lightened flywheel being ran on otherwise un/lightly modified V1's. Tunes, Maggies, cams, etc. change things - but that's not what I was referring to.

Consider that person an unreliable source. I've been running a 13 lb flywheel with absolutely no problems whatsoever. If I could go lighter, I would.

Fuzzy; are you not modded fairly significantly? And tuned as well?
I'm not arguing one way or the other. I'm just playing devils advocate since most of the feedback here seems to go one way. A phobe call to East Coast Performance is where I'd send anyone who wants more info on this. Seems to me that they sell a LOT of these things, and install a fair amount too.

Fuzzy; are you not modded fairly significantly? And tuned as well?
I'm not arguing one way or the other. I'm just playing devils advocate since most of the feedback here seems to go one way. A phobe call to East Coast Performance is where I'd send anyone who wants more info on this. Seems to me that they sell a LOT of these things, and install a fair amount too.

I'm still trying to figure out what the big deal is with a lightened flywheel. Will I call ECP, no, bc I'm in Afghanistan. So could you please inform the "uneducated" of such issues.

I'm in no place to "educate" on this. All I'm saying here is that I was advised against a lightened FW like the 19Lb RAM. And I was advised by someone that I would consider a pretty reliable source given his experience. If you want details and can't make the call, PM him. He's on the forum. My conversation with him was a year ago or more, so I wouldn't want to start quoting what he told me.

Well to add some actual experience with the ram 19lb flywheel on an stock engine otherwise, it works great! if i didn't tell you it was a lightweight flywheel I don't think you would know until you punched it and felt the extra acceleration. It does not have any problems starting on the street, and really feels like stock in those terms, it just helps the car to be peppier.

I wouldn't hesitate to recommend the lightened flywheel to anyone, even if you want stock drive ability.

I love my 15lb'r. Revs faster and the clutch I'm running is grabby but no negative things to be said about the light flywheel here.

Fuzzy; are you not modded fairly significantly? And tuned as well?
I'm not arguing one way or the other. I'm just playing devils advocate since most of the feedback here seems to go one way. A phobe call to East Coast Performance is where I'd send anyone who wants more info on this. Seems to me that they sell a LOT of these things, and install a fair amount too.

Correct on both counts. However, there's not a whole lot your tuner can do to make a lightweight flywheel easier to drive with. Dropping the 50 lb boat anchor in favor of a 13 lb flywheel will definitely force a change in the way that you start the car from a stop. Technically speaking, a very lightweight flywheel is supposed to make it harder to idle the car smoothly, since if you think about it, there's less inertia in the bottom end of the motor to smooth out vibration.

A light flywheel is only part of it.

My Monster had the "light" flywheel, but the pressure plate almost made up for the difference.

The whole rotating mass was lighter, but the pressure plate was a lot heavier then the stock one.

I've got a McLeod RST twin disc on a lightweight chromoly flywheel. Great clutch! It has about the same pedal effort as stock, just a little bit of twin disc chatter. I got mine for about $550 IIRC because of a pricing error. Flywheel was like $200 or something along those lines. I needed a slave cylinder spacer like the LS7 clutch.

I don't even want to here about the light flywheel issues. My LS7 setup used a 13lbs flywheel and TOTAL clutch weight from my Exedy was less than 40lbs with a moment of inertia much closer than anything else listed in this thread and I never had an issue starting in traffic with either clutch. The Exedy is so light that the car almost revd like a bike. There is NO issue going to a light flywheel unless this is your first car with a manual transmission and you're a woman or a little sissy guy.

How many miles did you get out of your clutch setups with the light flywheels?

I've got 10k of ass whooping on mine, with a little autocross and drag racing inbetween. Still strong like bull.

Guess I'm the only one with a Monster stage 2 in here? I will say the clutch GRABS like a mofo & the pedal never goes dead like it did with my LS7 setup (with less than 12k miles on it). The pedal effort is very similar to the LS7, which is similar to stock, but to be honest, I'm not too happy with the low speed drivability. For one, it tends to chatter a bit, & also I don't care for the release height, & my car seems to buck more below 2200 rpm than it did with the LS7.


This is my consensus on the Monster stage 2= For aggressive driving, I LOVE it, but just wish the overall regular drivability was better.

On another note, I LOVED the old LS7 setup when it was working good, but I kept having dead pedal issues, even after replacing the slave cylinder.

Guess I'm the only one with a Monster stage 2 in here? I will say the clutch GRABS like a mofo & the pedal never goes dead like it did with my LS7 setup (with less than 12k miles on it). The pedal effort is very similar to the LS7, which is similar to stock, but to be honest, I'm not too happy with the low speed drivability. For one, it tends to chatter a bit, & also I don't care for the release height, & my car seems to buck more below 2200 rpm than it did with the LS7.


This is my consensus on the Monster stage 2= For aggressive driving, I LOVE it, but just wish the overall regular drivability was better.

On another note, I LOVED the old LS7 setup when it was working good, but I kept having dead pedal issues, even after replacing the slave cylinder.

Did you use a GM Slave or an aftermarket LS7 slave?

Mine has about 12k miles on it and still strong. Pedal never goes dead on mine either...

Mine has about 12k miles on it and still strong. Pedal never goes dead on mine either...

which diamond clutch did you go with?
Do you have a pn or link?

I may go this route rather than the lsx9.
Im trying to find the best solution for the upgrade this redline is getting this winter.
max out this D-1SC.
see what i can get out of it...

which diamond clutch did you go with?
Do you have a pn or link?

I may go this route rather than the lsx9.

He went with a Diamond Stage 3 clutch.

http://www.diamondclutch.com/

dam,sorry about that, its in the first page... missed that.
Thanks GA95DCMSS

the site says 700hp.
im thinkin ill be over that to the ground.... hmm.

That is correct. Diamond stage 3 kit with 15lb flywheel. I like it a lot.

There is NO issue going to a light flywheel unless this is your first car with a manual transmission and you're a woman or a little sissy guy.

:jest::jest: great poast... you back in the V world??

Did you use a GM Slave or an aftermarket LS7 slave?

The "Modified" GM slave that Monster said was needed with their clutch kit. The slave that was installed about 2k miles before I put the Monster 2 in was also an OEM LS7 slave. I wanted to reuse it, but Monster said I needed to buy their slave to get it to work together correctly.

When I pulled the LS7 clutch out, it only had around 12k miles on it, & looked great, but I kept having dead pedal issues with it. I had replaced the salve at around 10k miles because the LS7 slave that was originally installed with the clutch had started to leak fluid.

I just finished pulling the trigger on a Diamond Stage 2 after all the positive reviews I read about them. I needed something that would be able to hold power in the long term when the real bolt ons go on but didn't shock the stock driveline on my 05 CTS-V. If you're going to be upgrading the rear on your V, then a Stage 3 wouldn't be an issue. I just figured a six puck clutch would be pushing it even if the car has an upgraded gen differential.

With regards to the slave cylinder included with that Diamond kit, to my understanding, it would not work and the ideal solution would be a LS7 slave cylinder. I started shopping around I found threads about the Powertorque CS2529 (mentioned earlier by FuzzyLog1c) which is supposed to be a cost effective alternative ($92) to the OEM LS7 slave cylinder ($160) and still retain the same durability as the OEM unit.

One of the things I'm wondering about this OEM style cylinder is, are the fittings still be the same as the stock LS7 for a remote bleeder?

With regards to the slave cylinder included with that Diamond kit, to my understanding, it would not work and the ideal solution would be a LS7 slave cylinder. I started shopping around I found threads about the Powertorque CS2529 (mentioned earlier by FuzzyLog1c) which is supposed to be a cost effective alternative ($92) to the OEM LS7 slave cylinder ($160) and still retain the same durability as the OEM unit.

One of the things I'm wondering about this OEM style cylinder is, are the fittings still be the same as the stock LS7 for a remote bleeder?

Following up on this, it's confirmed that the Diamond Clutch kit comes with a 98-02 F-Body Slave Cylinder. Should a CTS-V guy order one, they will need an LS7 Slave Cylinder or Katech Slave Spacer (if you choose to run your stock slave cylinder).

As for the Powertorque CS2529, I decided to purchase one. Looks just like the OEM LS7 unit you get from GM. The bleeder fitting is the same like the OEM LS7 unit. Has the same FTE housing like the OEM LS7 unit. The Powertorque CS2529 is USA made, not from Germany like the OEM LS7 unit. I'll post up some pictures when I get home. Didn't mean to hijack the thread but figured it would be good information with regards to clutches.

:jest::jest: great poast... you back in the V world??

Well I kinda never left lol I've been wrenching on the car for my dad. Just got the block back from the machine shop for the second time. Been cutting rings and checking bearing clearances. Still loving my R1 though. It was raining today so I had to drive my car. First time in months with the drout in OK. Pissed me off when I got behind a slow poke lol

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/264256_10151103600029272_724783649_n.jpg

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Following up on this, it's confirmed that the Diamond Clutch kit comes with a 98-02 F-Body Slave Cylinder. Should a CTS-V guy order one, they will need an LS7 Slave Cylinder or Katech Slave Spacer (if you choose to run your stock slave cylinder).

As for the Powertorque CS2529, I decided to purchase one. Looks just like the OEM LS7 unit you get from GM. The bleeder fitting is the same like the OEM LS7 unit. Has the same FTE housing like the OEM LS7 unit. The Powertorque CS2529 is USA made, not from Germany like the OEM LS7 unit. I'll post up some pictures when I get home. Didn't mean to hijack the thread but figured it would be good information with regards to clutches.


Did you call and see if Jason would have swapped out the slave with something that would fit?

Did you call and see if Jason would have swapped out the slave with something that would fit?

Unfortunately he didn't have anything in stock at the time.

Guess I'm the only one with a Monster stage 2 in here? I will say the clutch GRABS like a mofo & the pedal never goes dead like it did with my LS7 setup (with less than 12k miles on it). The pedal effort is very similar to the LS7, which is similar to stock, but to be honest, I'm not too happy with the low speed drivability. For one, it tends to chatter a bit, & also I don't care for the release height, & my car seems to buck more below 2200 rpm than it did with the LS7.


This is my consensus on the Monster stage 2= For aggressive driving, I LOVE it, but just wish the overall regular drivability was better.


Serious ?.

Do you end up with red spots on the floor from transmission fluid being shaken out of the trans from the chatter?

That and the chatter was the deal breaker for me and I replaced my Monster.

any one know if thers any options for our trans and clutch problems for 1000hp? im looking but im tired today haha