5.3 overheating in jeep cherokee
08-26-2012, 07:13 PM
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5.3 overheating in jeep cherokee I am running a 2002 5.3/4l60e in my 99 jeep cherokee. The motor has a 219/224 111 lsa cam, comp cams single valve springs, hardened push rods, stock heads, ls6 intake, stock injectors. I am running a griffin 3 row aluminum rad with 3 spal electric fans, ls6 waterpump, 160 degree thermostat, moroso surge tank, and just the front two steam vents running to the radiator. This thing overheats bad when i am in the throttle at low speed. Turning 44" boggers.
Anything i can try. I am running 50/50 mix with royal purple cool ice additive. Ceramic coated headers, and wrapped exhaust the whole way.
Anything i can try. I am running 50/50 mix with royal purple cool ice additive. Ceramic coated headers, and wrapped exhaust the whole way.
08-26-2012, 10:55 PM
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Did you bleed the coolant at the heads? I always have to pull the steam vent ports off and purge air a couple times before my engine will fill up correctly. Works best if you let it idle up to temp and pull them while it runs. Alternate back and forth a few times until they stop spitting bubbles.
08-27-2012, 11:24 PM
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fans are wired correctly. fans are on the back of rad pulling air. I have not bleed the steam vents, but i have checked several times and the rad is full to the top. Does it matter that i dont have a steam line on the back of the heads?
08-28-2012, 10:07 AM
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that is what i am wondering. This is a mail order tune. The jeep likes to die if i am in the guess hard and let off.
Also what kind of fuel pressure should i be running, i am setting at 52 psi right now.
Also what kind of fuel pressure should i be running, i am setting at 52 psi right now.
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08-28-2012, 12:15 PM
#8
Hooking up the rear head vents won't matter. Having the radiator full doesn't mean you got all the air out. Jack up the front of jeep so the radiator cap is the highest point, take off the cap then pull off one of the front steam vent plugs until water starts coming out before putting it back on again. That will get rid of any air.
I assume it isn't overheating when the truck is moving so that rules out a bad thermostat or water pump. Running hot at low speed usually means the fans aren't pulling enough air flow over the radiator. Especially with such a nice radiator. Are you sure the fans are coming on when it is hot? I assume they are wired with heavy enough wiring that they are getting good voltage when running and spinning good. Any type of shroud on the fan? sometimes air can just circulate so makes sure airflow from the back of the radiator to the front is blocked off.
Like someone said the air has to get out of the engine bay too. Try running with the hood slightly open and see if that makes a difference.
If all that is good you might try switching to an OEM fan like a Taurus or something. The word "spal" sure shows up in a lot of overheating threads.
I assume it isn't overheating when the truck is moving so that rules out a bad thermostat or water pump. Running hot at low speed usually means the fans aren't pulling enough air flow over the radiator. Especially with such a nice radiator. Are you sure the fans are coming on when it is hot? I assume they are wired with heavy enough wiring that they are getting good voltage when running and spinning good. Any type of shroud on the fan? sometimes air can just circulate so makes sure airflow from the back of the radiator to the front is blocked off.
Like someone said the air has to get out of the engine bay too. Try running with the hood slightly open and see if that makes a difference.
If all that is good you might try switching to an OEM fan like a Taurus or something. The word "spal" sure shows up in a lot of overheating threads.
Last edited by Pop N Wood; 08-28-2012 at 12:30 PM.
08-29-2012, 05:46 AM
#12
Man, no lack of craftsmanship there. Not sure what to say.
How tall is that radiator? Actually looks kind of short. I would make sure there is some type of block off plate to keep air from circulating out the back of the radiator and back to the front. I have also heard that 3 row rads can be hard to draw air through. But that was with old brass OEM stuff. Hard to believe this is an issue that aftermarket piece.
How tall is that radiator? Actually looks kind of short. I would make sure there is some type of block off plate to keep air from circulating out the back of the radiator and back to the front. I have also heard that 3 row rads can be hard to draw air through. But that was with old brass OEM stuff. Hard to believe this is an issue that aftermarket piece.
08-29-2012, 07:34 AM
#13
My $.02... Is that a double pass rad, or are the welds I see from cutting the rad down?
Also, pulling 44" tires, and loading the converter will create more heat. Is the trans cooled thru a remote mtd cooler? running a converter stall that is higher than cruise rpm, will create higher heat levels. [IE; Driving around town @40 mph with a 4K stall converter. Rpm could be 2000, and stall @ 4K...
I don't see the actual temp....What do you consider too hot? Just because you have a 160 stat, doesn't mean the system can come close to that temp.....
I agree, that rad looks like it "shrunk", for some reason..........
Also, pulling 44" tires, and loading the converter will create more heat. Is the trans cooled thru a remote mtd cooler? running a converter stall that is higher than cruise rpm, will create higher heat levels. [IE; Driving around town @40 mph with a 4K stall converter. Rpm could be 2000, and stall @ 4K...
I don't see the actual temp....What do you consider too hot? Just because you have a 160 stat, doesn't mean the system can come close to that temp.....
I agree, that rad looks like it "shrunk", for some reason..........
Last edited by Old Geezer; 08-29-2012 at 08:44 AM.
08-29-2012, 08:22 AM
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The radiator is a Jeep Cherokee style from what I can tell. A lot of times we see people with running too hot because of shroud issues, but you've got a very nice setup! Like Old Geezer said, what are your temps?
08-30-2012, 12:29 AM
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Man, no lack of craftsmanship there. Not sure what to say.
How tall is that radiator? Actually looks kind of short. I would make sure there is some type of block off plate to keep air from circulating out the back of the radiator and back to the front. I have also heard that 3 row rads can be hard to draw air through. But that was with old brass OEM stuff. Hard to believe this is an issue that aftermarket piece.
How tall is that radiator? Actually looks kind of short. I would make sure there is some type of block off plate to keep air from circulating out the back of the radiator and back to the front. I have also heard that 3 row rads can be hard to draw air through. But that was with old brass OEM stuff. Hard to believe this is an issue that aftermarket piece.
It is a radiator for a jeep cherokee, wide and short.
Is that a double pass rad, or are the welds I see from cutting the rad down?
Also, pulling 44" tires, and loading the converter will create more heat. Is the trans cooled thru a remote mtd cooler? running a converter stall that is higher than cruise rpm, will create higher heat levels. [IE; Driving around town @40 mph with a 4K stall converter. Rpm could be 2000, and stall @ 4K...
I don't see the actual temp....What do you consider too hot? Just because you have a 160 stat, doesn't mean the system can come close to that temp.....
I agree, that rad looks like it "shrunk", for some reason..........
Also, pulling 44" tires, and loading the converter will create more heat. Is the trans cooled thru a remote mtd cooler? running a converter stall that is higher than cruise rpm, will create higher heat levels. [IE; Driving around town @40 mph with a 4K stall converter. Rpm could be 2000, and stall @ 4K...
I don't see the actual temp....What do you consider too hot? Just because you have a 160 stat, doesn't mean the system can come close to that temp.....
I agree, that rad looks like it "shrunk", for some reason..........
Yes running z34 lumina vents:
08-30-2012, 01:16 PM
#20
What is it with XJs and overheating? I fought with my 4.0 for the longest time and it would run hot..even after replacing every single component. Then I got an 01...and it was fine.
Anyway...Ide try a little experiment. I would get some washers, or some 1/2" square tubing and install them between the hood and the hinges. So basically raising the back of the hood up. Im wondering if something weird isnt happening with the fans and the vents and airflow at low speeds and blah blah. It will allow more air out of the engine bay at lower speeds, and you'll get the cowl hood effect at higher speeds.
Do you have the outlets on the water pumped hooked up? Or just blocked off...
Oh and what are you using for a guage? How are you determining that its overheating? Is it actually boiling over? Or is a guage telling you.
Probably something simple...the work looks good, so just gotta keep checking/trying things til she cools off.
J.
Anyway...Ide try a little experiment. I would get some washers, or some 1/2" square tubing and install them between the hood and the hinges. So basically raising the back of the hood up. Im wondering if something weird isnt happening with the fans and the vents and airflow at low speeds and blah blah. It will allow more air out of the engine bay at lower speeds, and you'll get the cowl hood effect at higher speeds.
Do you have the outlets on the water pumped hooked up? Or just blocked off...
Oh and what are you using for a guage? How are you determining that its overheating? Is it actually boiling over? Or is a guage telling you.
Probably something simple...the work looks good, so just gotta keep checking/trying things til she cools off.
J.