Generation IV Internal Engine - Ls3 possibilities?

Hello ls1 tech family almost a month ago I posted for info on swapping a l99/ls3 into my camaro. That deal fell through but a new one has appeared. I have the chance to get a low mile ls3 shortblock. Because of lack of funds lol I would have to use my ls6 intake, livernois stage 2 ls6 heads and kook 1 3/4 long tube headders. I have a yank 3600 with 3.42 gears I would get a nice size cam. I know this is not the best set up available for the ls3 but it is what I have to work with. What kind of power can I expect with this setup? What camshaft would work with the heads and increased displacement? Another alternative would be to get a ls2 shortblock and kind of do the same thing. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

Are ls6 heads compatible with the bore of an ls3? Sounds kind of like you are wasting what money you do have while also building something you don't even want. Why not just sell your odds and ends, save up some money and build something legit.
If money is an option an iron block might be a good choice, but if Al is the material of choice get whatever has a 24x reluctor wheel to save on expenses related to that stuff.

The ls3 will always have the larger bore so stick with that. The ls6 stuff isnt ideal, but it will work in the meantime. I think you can expect in the range of 450rwhp with that combo.

But fyi ls3 intake complete with injectors and all can be had for $300 on ebay etc. Ls3/l92 heads are also very cheap $600 for a pair and will still outperform your ls6 stuff.

I have my LS1 (5.3 heads stage 2) top end swapped over onto a LS3/L92 bottom end. Just follow the tips off the other thread you made to convert it.

Do it once and do it right brotha! Or you'll be paying twice! That's the best advice and guy on here can tell you. Lots of us have been down that road. If your not happy and excited with the build then don't do it cause you'll be miserable lol. If you go Ls3 which is the way to go sell your ls1 stuff like someone mentioned earlier do you can buy Ls3 heads. They are cheap and if you try camaro5.com and hit their classifieds you'll find them for 500 bux used and an Ls3 intake for 150-200 and sometimes with injectors.

Just my .2 bud.

Thank you for all your responses. I will look into getting an ls3 intake and supporting mods. I just wanted to get an idea how my ls1 top end would work with a ls3 engine.

UPDATE I was blessed to be on ebay when SLP put a new 2012 ls3 shortblock out of a camaro ss with 4 miles for sale. It was a pullout short block taken out to make room for conversion into one of their zl1 cars. I am so excited to get a brand new shortblock at a very low price. I am going to put a ls3 top end on it. I was considering having the reluctor wheel changed now since the motor is in short block state. Is the lingenfelter box a good alternative?

That box is an option. You can always put a 24x on there since it's in short block form. I'd rather that than worry about another electronic box in the car. If the motor were whole I'd certainly go with the adapter box.

That box is an option. You can always put a 24x on there since it's in short block form. I'd rather that than worry about another electronic box in the car. If the motor were whole I'd certainly go with the adapter box.

Yes since its in shortblock form ima get a new wheel put on.

I would rather run the box. If you get a dud for a box, it's a lot easier to change than the wheel. The wheel has to be in the perfect position to run right, and you won't know until you try to run it.

Not only that, but you have to take the crank out, and after that you should probably put new bearings in it.

Things like a short block are better off left alone if nothing is wrong with it.

I agree with getting the box. You need somebody reputable with the right tool to pull the old one off and press the new one on. Chances are that you don't live near a shop that can do that professionally so now you have to ship off a heavy ass crank.

Just get the box.

I would rather run the box. If you get a dud for a box, it's a lot easier to change than the wheel. The wheel has to be in the perfect position to run right, and you won't know until you try to run it.

Not only that, but you have to take the crank out, and after that you should probably put new bearings in it.

Things like a short block are better off left alone if nothing is wrong with it.

I have spoken with my mechanic and we have decided to change the reluctor wheel, and be done with it. I have seen too many posts from people who had been stranded and have had no start issues with the converter box. Lingenfelter may have fixed the issue, but I will get the wheel changed.

I have spoken with my mechanic and we have decided to change the reluctor wheel, and be done with it. I have seen too many posts from people who had been stranded and have had no start issues with the converter box. Lingenfelter may have fixed the issue, but I will get the wheel changed.

the wheel is the ultimate long term fix, but be sure that its on correct the first time!

I agree with getting the box. You need somebody reputable with the right tool to pull the old one off and press the new one on. Chances are that you don't live near a shop that can do that professionally so now you have to ship off a heavy ass crank.

Just get the box.

Since my motor is in shortblock stage it will be easier to change the wheel now. I have a mechanic who owns a shop that specializes in Gm performance. He has done good work for me in the past so I know the work will be done right.

Hopefully your right. Cause otherwise, the engine has to come completely out of the car, and be completely taken apart to put the wheel in the correct spot if he fucks it up.

Hopefully your right. Cause otherwise, the engine has to come completely out of the car, and be completely taken apart to put the wheel in the correct spot if he fucks it up.

^^^My sentiments exactly.

I am a mechanic that owns a shop also and I am a GM ASEP graduate of 1999 and I don't feel comfortable changing out the reluctor on a crank because there is more to it than just pulling it off and putting one on. It's not like replacing a rotor or something.

If its that important, I would be sending it out.

Or just run the box. I'd much rather change out 100 boxes before going back to square 1 on the engine because a "mechanic" didn't put it on right.

^^^My sentiments exactly.

I am a mechanic that owns a shop also and I am a GM ASEP graduate of 1999 and I don't feel comfortable changing out the reluctor on a crank because there is more to it than just pulling it off and putting one on. It's not like replacing a rotor or something.

If its that important, I would be sending it out.

My mechanic is going to send the crank out to a machine shop for the job I understand it is
a delicate job but its for piece mind im doing it.

And also he doesn't get paid till it is running and ready to go lol.

Let us know if it turns out ok. Like I said its not a simple job. I hope the machine shop he sends it to takes the time to research how it is changed out and not press it on like its a bearing race.

Oh man that's a toss up, hopefully he sends it out to an Lsx experienced shop. My friend on here has had his box over a year with no issues even when putting his car on the bumper over and over again. You just need to put it somewhere with ventilation. Just my .2
Gl with that.

Oh man that's a toss up, hopefully he sends it out to an Lsx experienced shop. My friend on here has had his box over a year with no issues even when putting his car on the bumper over and over again. You just need to put it somewhere with ventilation. Just my .2
Gl with that.

What reluctor wheel are you using?

My crank had a 24 tooth installed from the get go bud, my friend here that runs 9.9's and mid tens has the box no issues to date ever.

Update I am South east MI Katech changed out the
reluctor wheel for me. I have a brand new set of ls33
heads ready to bolt on. I am waiting for a cam and
springs from eps.