lordrazo

iTrader: (18)

its a 1994 Camaro
bmr Manual Brake Conversion Kit which uses a strange engineering manual master
all 3an braided brake lines front to back
aerospace front drag brakes
stock disk brakes in rear


UPDATE!! i reversed the ports on the master and so far so good works great!

i bled the brakes and went back just to make sure did all 4 again. the pedal is hard but hell just putting in gear you can feel its weak and just going around the block 20 mph maybe omg i had to give it everything i had on the pedal to stop and still wasn't enough. feels like they are barely working

any suggestions or answers?

Carl at CRP

iTrader: (9)

I started marketing Strange Engineering's product line 13 years ago and have never seen a Strange manual brake conversion kit. What part # is it if You don't mind?

When converting to manual brakes the maximum bore size of the master cylinder should be 1.00", lots of variables of course but frequently 7/8" is used, what size is the one You have?

Re-read Your post and saw You have stock rear brakes, possibly an adjustable prop. valve will help but not certain...going to be of interest seeing what the fix is if You have a 1-1/16 or worse yet a 1-1/8" master cyl bore.
Carl

lordrazo

iTrader: (18)

ok my bad its a bmr kit utilizing a strang eng. master here is the kit

http://www.jegs.com/p/BMR-Fabricatio...73562/10002/-1

lordrazo

iTrader: (18)

no one here ever used a manual brake setup? or had any issues?

bowtieboySS427

iTrader: (23)

If your master is mounted solid, I would look at your pedal ratio. A lot of times people will convert to manual brakes and use a power brake rod. Shorter rod, less leverage. Longer rod more leverage. Also look at your pivot point of your brake pedal. Try to get as much leverage as possible. Sounds like you have them bled good. Also, manual brakes take a noticeable amount of more foot to stop than power brakes. Shouldnt take everything you have to stop it though.

lordrazo

iTrader: (18)

i am using the supplied rod with this kit it requires you to drill a mounting hole 1" above the existing stock rod the pedal location which i did.i have used this same kit on a previous build without any issues

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...&productid=246 (the kit)

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/siteart/install/MBK001.pdf (instructions)

bowtieboySS427

iTrader: (23)

Looks like that mc rod is Length adjustable? Try to make it longer. Looks like it uses rod ends. Try loosening rod end 3 turns and see if you feel a difference.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

Did you drill the hole 1-inch higher on the back of the pedal? If this is not performed, the problem you've described will be the result. You won't have the correct leverage.
- Kevin

lordrazo

iTrader: (18)

yes i drilled it roughly 1" above the existing or "oem" rod mounting location on the brake pedal.

ss performance

iTrader: (17)

I don't know anything about the kit you are using but if the piston diameter in the master cylinder is wrong you can have this problem. I think you need a smaller diameter piston for the manual brakes.

good luck

lordrazo

iTrader: (18)

i have the 3360 kit i double checked my rod mount location as you can see in the pic its good! so if you read the instructions (i have attached) it talks about most volume is given to the closest reservoir to the pushrod and that my kit is optimized to 4 piston rear calipers and 1 to 2 piston calipers in front but in fact my setup is reversed aerospace 4 piston in front and stock 1 piston in rear. so with that being said i know all stock mc rear is for rear brakes guess my question is would it work if i reveres my lines and re bleed using the rear reservoir for my front brakes since it creates the most volume

UPDATE!! i reversed the ports on the master and so far so good works great!

swv

rear reservoir is for the front brakes