truck accesories with LS1 intake?
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#9
I have a drive by cable system. I have the engine in the car now with no A/C. I was hoping i would just be able to maybe just change the water pump and be good to go? Is all i would need is a 2010 camaro water pump? What is this spacer you guys are referring to?
#11
Accessory drives.
Yes, you can swap the waterpump pulleys, use the truck damper and then relocate the A/C compressor if you are keeping the A/C.
Take a look at the attached thread. My mini sanden compressor mount works with the truck offset. I've made my own drive using an inexpensive alternator and is compatible with the truck accessories. It's pretty simple too compared to all the cantilevered brackets. It won't work with the larger Sanden compressor, you have to go mini.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...available.html
Take a look at the attached thread. My mini sanden compressor mount works with the truck offset. I've made my own drive using an inexpensive alternator and is compatible with the truck accessories. It's pretty simple too compared to all the cantilevered brackets. It won't work with the larger Sanden compressor, you have to go mini.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...available.html
Last edited by fox12303; 09-05-2012 at 11:44 AM.
#12
There are lots of ways.
1. You can buy a fbody water pump then make spacers to space out the pumps pulley to line with the rest of the belt system. But then you gotta buy a new water pump and buy or make spacer plus now you need to purchase 4 water pump gaskets instead of two.
2. Buy new 2007+ style truck water pump
3. Heat up the water pump neck at the base, then bang it a little with a rubber mallet to the position you need to clear the throttle body.
4. Someone posted before that you actually do not NEED to heat up and move the water neck. I think they said you can just grind down the little post on the throttle body that the cruise control cable would normally hook onto and it clears fine. Not sure if you are using cruise or not so you may not be willing to do that. Again not 100% on that. Even if so it may or may not be a complete bitch dealing with the radiator hose and clamp being so close. So repositioning the water neck still might be best. Edit- Never mind I see you have DBW throttle body not cable.
5. I got this idea from Member: El S1 Camino. His build there here https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...5-3-build.html
Here is the original truck water pump. He just removed the top original water neck. Then in the spot on the front like the LS1 water pump he drilled and tapped it for 1in NPT fitting.
Then he put an plug where the old water neck used to be.
I plan on doing the same, but I bought a Moroso NPT water neck. 1in NPT to 1 1/4in hose end. I believe these are made for their electric water pumps.
Bought mine from here.
What it looks like.
Where it will be placed.
Shot of the original water neck in. With it turned to clear throttle body.
Here you can see I turned it again, whichever position I want it to be.
This is with a truck motor, ls6 intake.
As far as brackets go.
Simply cut the idler pulley portion off the bracket Then with a spacer and longer bolt you can place it almost anywhere. Like what LS1MCSS has posted. Or you can put the pulley right below where the altenator is like most people or kits place it.
1. You can buy a fbody water pump then make spacers to space out the pumps pulley to line with the rest of the belt system. But then you gotta buy a new water pump and buy or make spacer plus now you need to purchase 4 water pump gaskets instead of two.
2. Buy new 2007+ style truck water pump
3. Heat up the water pump neck at the base, then bang it a little with a rubber mallet to the position you need to clear the throttle body.
4. Someone posted before that you actually do not NEED to heat up and move the water neck. I think they said you can just grind down the little post on the throttle body that the cruise control cable would normally hook onto and it clears fine. Not sure if you are using cruise or not so you may not be willing to do that. Again not 100% on that. Even if so it may or may not be a complete bitch dealing with the radiator hose and clamp being so close. So repositioning the water neck still might be best. Edit- Never mind I see you have DBW throttle body not cable.
5. I got this idea from Member: El S1 Camino. His build there here https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...5-3-build.html
Here is the original truck water pump. He just removed the top original water neck. Then in the spot on the front like the LS1 water pump he drilled and tapped it for 1in NPT fitting.
Then he put an plug where the old water neck used to be.
I plan on doing the same, but I bought a Moroso NPT water neck. 1in NPT to 1 1/4in hose end. I believe these are made for their electric water pumps.
Bought mine from here.
What it looks like.
Where it will be placed.
Shot of the original water neck in. With it turned to clear throttle body.
Here you can see I turned it again, whichever position I want it to be.
This is with a truck motor, ls6 intake.
As far as brackets go.
Simply cut the idler pulley portion off the bracket Then with a spacer and longer bolt you can place it almost anywhere. Like what LS1MCSS has posted. Or you can put the pulley right below where the altenator is like most people or kits place it.
#15
Staging Lane
iTrader: (17)
truck wp and ac compresser
DSCN1210.jpg?
2012 camaro intake on a truck 6.2 vvt dod, truck water pump with ac compresser relocated alt had to grind a little off the water neck to clear thottle body
2012 camaro intake on a truck 6.2 vvt dod, truck water pump with ac compresser relocated alt had to grind a little off the water neck to clear thottle body
#18
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (127)
I have figured about 6 different configurations to use various combinations.
Configuration 1)
98-02 LS1 Fbody crank offset
98-02 LS1 Fbody/C5 water pump
98-02 LS1 Alternator (pass hi mount)
GM TypeII aluminum body power steering pump/remote resevoir
All mounted on CNC billet 6061 aluminum brackets
Configuration 2)
LS truck crankoffset
(97-98) bolt on pulley water pump C5/Fbody
98-02 Fbody/LS truck/ 96-00 (SBC 5.7Vortec) alternator option (pass hi mount)
GM TypeII aluminum body power steering pump/remote resevoir
All mounted on CNC billet 6061 aluminum brackets
My current prototypes are kicking good. Got one of my configurations on a 7200 shifted car and other has logged about 10k miles.
Just 2 examples of the ones i got. I have actually made some changes, and made slightly lighter and more compact and inboard. I designed/machined all brackets for my configurations
Pics when i start my 68 C10 swap.
Configuration 1)
98-02 LS1 Fbody crank offset
98-02 LS1 Fbody/C5 water pump
98-02 LS1 Alternator (pass hi mount)
GM TypeII aluminum body power steering pump/remote resevoir
All mounted on CNC billet 6061 aluminum brackets
Configuration 2)
LS truck crankoffset
(97-98) bolt on pulley water pump C5/Fbody
98-02 Fbody/LS truck/ 96-00 (SBC 5.7Vortec) alternator option (pass hi mount)
GM TypeII aluminum body power steering pump/remote resevoir
All mounted on CNC billet 6061 aluminum brackets
My current prototypes are kicking good. Got one of my configurations on a 7200 shifted car and other has logged about 10k miles.
Just 2 examples of the ones i got. I have actually made some changes, and made slightly lighter and more compact and inboard. I designed/machined all brackets for my configurations
Pics when i start my 68 C10 swap.
#20