Chris Arnold

This car has just been determined to be a PITA.

Bought a '97 in '06 with 22k miles on it. It's at 75k miles now. Since then I've
- replaced the condenser, compressor, and evacuator in the A/C after the original compressor took a dump and sent metal throughout the system ~$3k
- Rebuilt the transmission and replaced the clutch with a C6 Z06 clutch (was popping out of reverse. I replaced synchros, reverse, and pads using bronze and carbon fiber parts) ~4k (prices in Germany are steeper than in the states)
- Replaced the horn diaphragm (maybe $50 for the part... don't remember)
- Replaced the rear differential after a day at the nurburgring (only time I've tracked this car) where a leaky seal trashed the bearings ($1000 including $650 for a junkyard diff and 300-400 for the labor)
- TPMS for 1 wheel ($80)
- replaced 1 magnesium wheel due to a crack bad enough that air was leaking ($600)
- hazard switch ($40)
- both window motors/regulators - would be nice if these were seperate because the cables were frayed, but the motors still worked ($500 - something like $250ish each)
- running lights/fog lights/blinkers (not much)
- seats still rock but the fix is in the mail to me now
- CEL came on for an EGR component that I also have in the back of the car but don't want to pull the intake off to replace
- getting some metal on metal clanking sound from the driver's side rear suspension
- Replaced both key fobs because for some reason batteries were only lasting 2-3 weeks
- external temp sensor has gone wacky in the last month or so
- ABS/traction control light comes on over bumps occasionally, but I'm not ready to invest in the EBCS repair, yet
- Fuel gauge sending unit ($110)

I don't hold these against the car itself. They're issues of preventative, or regular maintenance:
- column lock bypass is in the back of the car because I've been too lazy to install
- replaced the clutch while the trans was rebuilt. Put a C6Z clutch in for peace of mind if I ever do some minor mods.
- replaced 2 batteries the first was to go to a optima gel type to reduce the chance of tearing up the computer the second was after the 1st optima died ($400 - optimas aren't cheap)
- run-flat tires are expensive as sin. I think I was quote something like $1,800 for 4 new GY run-craps. They handle worse, reduce mileage (heavy), and are only needed that 1 or 2 times every 100k miles when you tear up the tire badly enough that pumping air in isn't enough to get you to a service station or back home. The toyo non run-flats I used were good but not great tires for ~$6-700, the GY DS-G3 were excellent in dry and wet conditions and cost marginally more... maybe $8-900.

So, not including regular maintenance stuff, I'm pretty close to $10k invested in the car in roughly 50k miles and 5 years of ownership.

Now, after taking it back to the same transmission shop 3 more times, trying to back the car in reverse occasionally results in the entire drivetrain being shocked and loud THUD for something in the tranny. The external temp gauge reported erroneous temps - replacing the sensor didn't change anything. The fuel gauge often failed, so I replaced the sending unit and the problem is EVEN WORSE! WTF? I've had it. Spending money and time without actually fixing these 3 things has been too disheartening. I live 3 hours away from the shop that did the tranny work, and I don't look forward to paying someone else to go back into the tranny again. Parts in Germany cost a lot more for shipping. No one really knows how to work on them, either. I don't have the time. I'm gonna try another brand for a while.

Bramlok

iTrader: (7)

That's a lot of stuff to go wrong. Aside from the A/C and trans repair, most of it it typical stuff that can go wrong with any car.

Even though you've only owned it 5 years, you have to remember the car is over 15 years old so stuff will break and you'll have issues pop up.

justin455

So you bought an older sports car (this first year of that model year I might add) and complain about having to fix small electrical components, switches, and sensors. Things break over time and usage. I'm not sure what else to tell you.

The car has been to the same transmission shop 3 times now...don't know what they're doing maybe?

You hold it against the car that the rear diff broke while running it at the Nurburgring.

The AC situation sucks, but really...has it ever even been 90degrees in Germany before? I'd just rip that **** out and enjoy the targa top.

The wheel is unfortunate, but you hold it against the car when chances are you hit a massive pothole to crack a wheel.

GM keyfobs of this ear are known to suck ***, but learn to use a soldering iron and be done with it.

You complain about tire prices yet you bought a fast sports car. Really? Yes run-flats suck, that's why no one uses them.

A couple times you say the car has a current issue, but you're too lazy to fix the problem. That's the REAL problem here. It sounds like you're not ready to own a car and need an appliance instead. You don't need a better car, that car needs a better owner. Trade it for a Camry (or I guess Jetta in this case) and let someone else enjoy driving a caring for it. You can drive the toaster to work.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

That does seem like a lot for 75k miles of normal use. I would consider it to be abnormal.

I didn't have any issues at all with my '02 until about 90-95k miles. Prior to that was just fluids/filters/brakes/tires and one battery. And even at 95k, all it needed was a water pump and alternator, and one power window motor. Then it needed a belt tensioner at 100k.

Other than the TPMS sensor, that other stuff shouldn't be going bad due to age alone. 15 years is not that long, we aren't talking about a 50 year old car here.

This may be the root of the issue; things aren't getting fixed correctly because the shops you are going to don't know what they are doing with this car.

myk

iTrader: (4)

If someone's going to run hard or race a GM car, from the 90's even, expect problems about as often as you feel the need to take a ****. I agree with the 'AC. Honestly, I think that's the true purpose of removable roofs-to deal with the eventual failure of the crappy AC systems...

StealthWeaponLS1

I think those are good points about taking your car to that particular shop your taking it to. I think you would of given up after the 2nd time, but i get it, you wanted to get your car fixed it. But im guessing thats what happens when you own an older American sports car in a foreign country. They probably never seen anything like that before (mechanical wise of course). Maybe you should do a little research and see if there is a shop or maybe even a car club that deals in American sports cars in Germany that may be able to direct you in the right direction on shops that wont screw your car up. With all the mishaps you`ve had with your car, i would say thats just what its like owning a sports car in general. If you cant take it anymore, then just sell it........

Chris Arnold

@ Justin, check your PM.

To the rest, I think the transmission shop wasn't well versed in this tranny either. I have an idea of what's going on. It seems the tranny problem may be a tolerance/manufacturing issue. It seems that an common out of tolerance reverse shift fork in T56s may be causing it not to go all the way into gear. This rounds the outer edge of the teeth more so than in a properly functioning transmission. Nothing else in the tranny is a problem.

This is not a general sports car issue. I have an 800 hp street mustang, and have had 2 others. All of them were older and had more mileage, but I do not have similar stories.

Finding service in Germany does suck. However, one small part that I appreciate is that it gets 3-4 times as much attention from them as it does in the states. Kids will run over to see it, and guys will talk to you about it like it's a ferrari or something. They're obviously much more rare here, and you can feel that from the Germans.