Stock Torque Arm bolt removal - unique problem
09-12-2012, 04:33 PM
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Stock Torque Arm bolt removal - unique problem I'm trying to remove my stock torque arm to install a BMR adjustable arm.
However, the two rear bolts on the arm are reversed in their install -- that is, the bolt was put upwards from the bottom and bolted down with the nut at the top. The service manual indicates this should be the other way around. Oddly, the last shop to touch the car was a Chevy dealer.
I can't get either nut to budge. The one closer to the front of the car is too close to the underside to hit with an impact gun, the other one won't move even WITH a dual hammer impact gun (Edit: Rated 425 ft-lb @ 90 PSI) hitting it at full force, off a 3 horse 60 gallon vertical compressor. No matter where I put the gun, these bolts won't budge. I hit them with some WD-40 but still no dice. I'm letting it soak right now.
The car is on jack stands as high as I can get 'em, and the rear end is under no load (it's fully extended).
What do I do? (Seriously stuck!)
EDIT: SOLVED. See Post #13: https://ls1tech.com/forums/16727491-post13.html
However, the two rear bolts on the arm are reversed in their install -- that is, the bolt was put upwards from the bottom and bolted down with the nut at the top. The service manual indicates this should be the other way around. Oddly, the last shop to touch the car was a Chevy dealer.
I can't get either nut to budge. The one closer to the front of the car is too close to the underside to hit with an impact gun, the other one won't move even WITH a dual hammer impact gun (Edit: Rated 425 ft-lb @ 90 PSI) hitting it at full force, off a 3 horse 60 gallon vertical compressor. No matter where I put the gun, these bolts won't budge. I hit them with some WD-40 but still no dice. I'm letting it soak right now.
The car is on jack stands as high as I can get 'em, and the rear end is under no load (it's fully extended).
What do I do? (Seriously stuck!)
EDIT: SOLVED. See Post #13: https://ls1tech.com/forums/16727491-post13.html
Last edited by szalkerous; 09-17-2012 at 11:31 AM.
09-12-2012, 04:40 PM
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Do you know where I can find that? I have most major chains (in the Northeast) around my house.
EDIT: My local AutoZone carries "Sea Foam/12 oz. (354.882 ml.) Deep Creep multipurpose penetrating lubricant and cleaner"... gonna jet over there.
EDIT: My local AutoZone carries "Sea Foam/12 oz. (354.882 ml.) Deep Creep multipurpose penetrating lubricant and cleaner"... gonna jet over there.
Last edited by szalkerous; 09-12-2012 at 04:49 PM.
09-12-2012, 09:15 PM
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I realize its environmentally irresponsible, but spray the bolt with refrigerant for about a minute, trying to avoid the nut. Then soak with liquid wrench or Kroil. You wont damage anything by freezing it, and for me has worked almost as well as heat.
09-12-2012, 09:36 PM
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Glad I read the posts here first. I was going to recommend the exact same thing since a guy at work today was telling me of some new stuff that is just that. It freezes it with some kind of refrigerant then you hit it with the penetrating oil and it should come undone. Good luck!
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09-13-2012, 09:10 AM
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The nuts on top is a serious safety issue though. The reason they are put in from the top so is that IF the nuts loosen up and fall off, the TA doesn't come completely off the car and cause a crash.
09-13-2012, 10:18 AM
#10
Have you visually inspected the nuts? We get a lot of calls about mechanics who weld the Torque Arm bolts to the car.....seriously. So if you can't see the top of the bolt, use a mirror and see if there is a weld on there. The bolts shouldn't be THAT hard to remove.
- Kevin
- Kevin
09-14-2012, 10:26 AM
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Have you visually inspected the nuts? We get a lot of calls about mechanics who weld the Torque Arm bolts to the car.....seriously. So if you can't see the top of the bolt, use a mirror and see if there is a weld on there. The bolts shouldn't be THAT hard to remove.
- Kevin
- Kevin
You guys at BMR have obviously run into this. If they're welded, I will have to destroy the stock bolts. What is the replacement options?
09-16-2012, 06:47 PM
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Yeah I realized a few vendors have replacement bolts which are longer for aftermarket torque arms, so I ordered a set of those.
As for the bolts, there was no welds on the nuts. I ended up taking two heavy duty breaker bars (28"), finagling them onto the bolt head and nut, putting in an additional 3 feet of steel pipe, and having a friend turn one while I turned the other. This actually managed to break the bolts free after a long time of messing with getting the bars lined up with the socket while still being able to find clearance. Surprisingly, under all this twist, neither bolt broke.
Also, that upper bolt on the bushing clamp sucks. Just plain sucks. Barely any room to get up in there, and takes forever to get out with a single click of the ratchet. I did not drop the transmission, although we did pull the tunnel brace ti allow us to wiggle around the torque arm for clearance. I had hoped once I got it loose to be able to yank the arm out of the bushing, but no dice. Had to remove the entire clamp.
At least it's over with and I can get on with drilling out the factory clamshell and doing the install.
As for the bolts, there was no welds on the nuts. I ended up taking two heavy duty breaker bars (28"), finagling them onto the bolt head and nut, putting in an additional 3 feet of steel pipe, and having a friend turn one while I turned the other. This actually managed to break the bolts free after a long time of messing with getting the bars lined up with the socket while still being able to find clearance. Surprisingly, under all this twist, neither bolt broke.
Also, that upper bolt on the bushing clamp sucks. Just plain sucks. Barely any room to get up in there, and takes forever to get out with a single click of the ratchet. I did not drop the transmission, although we did pull the tunnel brace ti allow us to wiggle around the torque arm for clearance. I had hoped once I got it loose to be able to yank the arm out of the bushing, but no dice. Had to remove the entire clamp.
At least it's over with and I can get on with drilling out the factory clamshell and doing the install.
09-17-2012, 11:30 AM
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09-17-2012, 12:58 PM
#17
We also offer replacement bolts that might work out better for you.
- Kevin
Yes, we deal with some terrific "mechanics" who weld A-arm bolts, replace balljoints...and WELD THEM IN, or their 12-bolt keeps having the T/A bolts back out...so let's weld them on! haha
- Kevin
Yes, we deal with some terrific "mechanics" who weld A-arm bolts, replace balljoints...and WELD THEM IN, or their 12-bolt keeps having the T/A bolts back out...so let's weld them on! haha
09-17-2012, 01:32 PM
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I must admit when my 10 bolt finally lets go, I'm not excited about the setups on those 12-bolts. A few people told me to look into the Dana 60 setup, but again I heard the axle housing on that won't fit my Fays2 Watt's Link...
Couldn't you just drill the rear end housing to allow through-bolts? Admittedly, I've never seen their housing so I don't know why they're forcing you to thread to it instead of through to a nut.
I digress....
Kevin: I'm very excited to try out this BMR torque arm!!! Since I need to keep it tailshaft mounted (I want to run a true dual exhaust), should I inspect the transmission mount? I have a factory mount in there now, and will be installing poly motor mounts soon... I was told to reduce irritating vibration to leave the trans mount rubber. Should I re-up a new rubber mount just to be safe, or is there a better setup I can get my hands on that isn't a poly mount?
