-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone here have experience with sleeving an iron LS block for a repair?

I have an LY6 the machine shop damaged while boring one of the cylinders. The tool came loose and took a gouge out upon entry. They have been looking for a replacement block for some time, but these Gen IV iron blocks are harder to come by than the older LQ4/9 blocks and aren't available new. They've offered to sleeve my block and not charge for any of the machine work to finish everything out (deck/bore/hone/etc). I have been reading about sleeves and it seems the only problem with them is if they are installed without a step or flange to keep them in place, sometimes they can work loose axially. Otherwise if they are installed with a proper interference fit and finished like a normal cylinder they work fine.

Does anyone have any thoughts, experience or advice for me?

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

First thing I would do is call Steve at RED. I believe he is a sponsor here. We use him exclusively for any sleeve work we need done! He will steer you straight.

http://www.raceenginedevelopment.com...4927/index.htm

blackmaverick

I would agree with Matt

machinistone

Only had to sleeve one so far, it's no different than sleeving an older SBC or most any other motor, bore it for the proper press, and leave a step at the bottom for the sleeve to stop against and once it's decked and honed you'll never know the difference.

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

Agreed. Nothing wrong with sleeving an iron block. Common practice back in The day when small block Chevy's weren't as plentiful as they are today.

WKMCD

iTrader: (2)

I doubt I would have a shop that damaged the block in the first place go through the liner process. Too many things could be done half-*** and only show up later when they will deny any responsibility.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the reference. I will try contacting him.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

This is probably my biggest fear. I am not sure how much I should be worried though as the shop does have a good reputation. This work is being done by QMP Racing in Chatsworth.

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

I'm a machinist as well, and I'll tell you, things happen. If they have a good rep and they are willing to stand by their work, no reason I wouldn't let them do it.

driver56

Agreed. If they were up front and honest about what happened I'd let them finish it out, especially since they're offering to foot some of the bill. Take help whenever it's offered............

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys. I spoke to the shop a bit more yesterday to get details. They leave a step at the bottom of the cylinder to retain the sleeve. The block is honed for a smooth interference fit to optimize heat transfer. They use dry ice to shrink the sleeve prior to install. No sealant / locking compounds are used to prevent loss of heat transfer. In their opinion the repair is as reliable as the original block when done properly.

I private messaged back and forth with Steve @ RED per Matt's recommendation. He echoed this is not an uncommon repair and when done properly is as reliable as the original block. The important thing to note is that if the block is cracked it will likely leak. In my case, the block is not cracked and the damage did not break a water jacket. Steve was very helpful over PM and I greatly appreciate his advice.

QMP has been honest with me about what happened. If they were dishonest I think they would have just sleeved it without telling me what happened since the sleeve will not be easy to see once the fix is done. They have also offered to work with me to make things right. At this point I am leaning toward taking their offer and having them proceed with the sleeve.

FlamingTA

iTrader: (8)

If this was a regular iron block I would think the cost of sleeving the block would be close to the price of a new block, could be wrong tho.

driver56

A regular iron sleeve in a iron block should be around $100 or less. A nodular iron sleeve should be a little more.

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

I wouldn't get uptight about your sleeve repair. You will be O.K. if it is done properly. I have done these on iron blocks without any trouble. Their procedure you outlined is normal. Installing repair sleeves on these iron blocks is no different than doing it on older SBC's

I get 110.00 to sleeve a cylinder, sleeves for these run around 65.00 (this is extra), and then I charge to finish hone it with the rest of the other cylinders If I use a torque plate (likely) and studs I charge a little extra because it takes more time set it up. (LS V-8 torque plate hone w/ ARP studs is 175.00).

I'd say let them do it! Sleep fine. It'll be O.K.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Alright, I spoke to the shop last week and gave them the go ahead to sleeve the damaged cylinder. Thanks for the feedback and advice. It has been very helpful.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Here is the finished product. You can see where the sleeve mates with the block both at the deck surface and near the bottom of the cylinder where they left a step in the block to support the sleeve. It was machined after install and I can not feel the transition with my fingers.

LS6

Fine work

cam75w/ls1

iTrader: (2)

Been running my sleeved 6.0 15,000 track miles w/ no problems.

ez2cdave

Forgive a dumb question . . .

What are the differences between the Gen IV cast iron block vs. the Gen III cast iron block ?

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Replied in your other thread w/ this question.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ron-block.html