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Thinking of upgrading from PP 5.3 heads.

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Old 10-01-2012, 04:22 PM
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Default Thinking of upgrading from PP 5.3 heads.

I have the PP 5.3l stage 2 heads...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lsx-parts...5-3-heads.html

Mods are as follows:
Fast 90/90
TSP 231/237 Cam
QTP Headers, Y pipe with cutouts, magnaflow for a quiet street exhaust.
4000 Stall Yank
4.10 Gears in a Moser rear end
Stock LS1 internals.


Am I wrong in thinking that my heads may be holding me back?
Food for thought.... I may go to a 6.0 block at some point. What be nice something that will work now and in the future.

Last edited by salspmp; 10-01-2012 at 05:10 PM.
Old 10-01-2012, 04:29 PM
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Grr
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what are you looking for? your cam is holding back 3x as much power as your heads
Old 10-01-2012, 04:40 PM
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How big of a cam can I use with these heads and not have to fly cut
Old 10-01-2012, 04:53 PM
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NVM im guessing that is supposed to be 231/237 from your sig and not 213/237

Thats a decent cam for those heads for sure, SI5 is a great all around cam. unless you go with some really badass package you wont see more than ~20whp if you changed heads AND cam

What are you putting down for power now and how fast is it? those 1.75" headers?
Old 10-01-2012, 05:21 PM
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I corrected it to the 231/237. Sorry for the typo. I think they are the 1 3/4

350rwhp Unlocked, Sae corrected, mustang dyno.

I have a transmission issue that needs to be remedied. It won't shift from 2-3 without flaring and hitting the rev limiter. (tune is appropriate, something internal)

I didnt stall the car at the line, I just punched it....

1.74 0-60ft
12.3 @ 109 mph

I don't know how much I lost because of the shift issue. My guess is I can get in the high 11's
Old 10-01-2012, 08:05 PM
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tty, thoughts anyone?


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Old 10-01-2012, 10:56 PM
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Depending on what you can sell the heads for, you could get some better ones, my personal favorite is the AI ported TFS casting, your cam woud work well with those as well. Should be good for around 20whp.

Big things would be swapping to a 17/8 to 2" stepped header, spend some money on suspension and get it down the track. You should be more in the 115mph area with your mods, get that trans fixed.

My setup in my sig, stock trans, 10 bolt, LS1 intake still I ran 11.41@120 with 1.62 60'. Its setup for a single plane and should pick up i think 10.9x@125 with that on there, stock suspension except springs and LCA brackets. IF you are looking for something like that LMK im probably changing it out
Old 10-01-2012, 11:48 PM
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TTT for the late crowed


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Old 10-02-2012, 09:02 AM
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Grr, thank you for the feedback. It is appreciated. I didn't mean to TTT the post after you wrote back. Seems like the android forum is a little behind.

How do you launch your setup at the track? I didn't have a chance to see what worked best. I only got one run in before I ran into the shift issue.
Old 10-02-2012, 09:47 AM
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i stage at idle and stomp the **** out of the gas, if it hooks it pulls the drivers tire about 2" and does a 1.60-1.62 every time. My car just works for some reason so im not changing it for now. Take weight out, thats by far the best option, i would rather shed weight than add power for the same money until you get to 3300 with driver and fuel
Old 10-02-2012, 11:32 AM
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Are there any good options for shedding weight. I need the back seats in while driving around town. I have a daughter and a wife then I shove in the car occasionally.

I pulled the spare tire. I was thinking of removing AC. I don't use it at all.
Old 10-02-2012, 12:32 PM
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spare tire and jack, ABS delete, random brackets to remove, lighten bumper supports, hood, K-member (my fave, really opens up the engine bay from the bottom), suspension stuff.
If you want to pull the AC that is alot of weight, and makes working on the car much easier, if you cut down the heater box so its just heat.
Lightweight battery is another easy one.
Rims/tires, I dropped 70lbs with my 15's and skinnies
front sway bar you wont even notice its gone unless you are hardcore cornering, thats 15#



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