View Poll Results: 1/4 times after swap
1-2 tenths better
9
56.25%
3 or more better
0
0%
1-2 tenths slower
6
37.50%
3 or more slower
1
6.25%
Voters: 16. You may not vote on this poll
4l60e to 4l80e 1/4 Mile Times
10-05-2012, 09:47 AM
#3
Alot of it depends on your power level and the combo you took out to the combo you are putting in.
My car went three tenths faster going to a TH400 because of the more favorable first gear. 60fts went from high 1.5s/low 1.6s to low 1.4s to mid 1.3s
My car went three tenths faster going to a TH400 because of the more favorable first gear. 60fts went from high 1.5s/low 1.6s to low 1.4s to mid 1.3s
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10-13-2012, 08:14 AM
#8
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Everyone that has done the swap using same type stall reports 1-2 tenths quicker times. Like said earlier, the gear spacing/ratio is the key. Search "Jake's performance" on here. He had a little bit to say on the topic.
10-14-2012, 12:22 PM
#14
It's not as much "common sense" as one would think.
There are many more advanced details and physics happening here than the weight of the transmission or the internals.
Pumping losses, frictional losses, flywheel effect of said weight, moment of inertia of said weight, the very obvious (to a transmission builder) fact that not all the parts are rotating all the time, and when they are, it may not be at engine speed or even in the same direction. we also have differing gear ratios that give us less or more mechanical advantage AND effect those previously mentioned rotating parts as to how fast they are rotating.
You also have to take into effect the rear gear ratio. It has a profound effect on the rate of acceleration of the trans internals.
The short story is, experienced transmission builders will have a good idea what will work and what kind of losses or gains may or may not be seen.
We've seen 4L60E-4L80E swaps go faster in most cases.
I've been surprised on more than one occasion when doing a swap when I thought we were going to see some ET loss and we didn't see a loss or even saw a gain.
It's usually minimum in any case and I would have to say that the converter for a given combo usually has more effect on ET.
There are many more advanced details and physics happening here than the weight of the transmission or the internals.
Pumping losses, frictional losses, flywheel effect of said weight, moment of inertia of said weight, the very obvious (to a transmission builder) fact that not all the parts are rotating all the time, and when they are, it may not be at engine speed or even in the same direction. we also have differing gear ratios that give us less or more mechanical advantage AND effect those previously mentioned rotating parts as to how fast they are rotating.
You also have to take into effect the rear gear ratio. It has a profound effect on the rate of acceleration of the trans internals.
The short story is, experienced transmission builders will have a good idea what will work and what kind of losses or gains may or may not be seen.
We've seen 4L60E-4L80E swaps go faster in most cases.
I've been surprised on more than one occasion when doing a swap when I thought we were going to see some ET loss and we didn't see a loss or even saw a gain.
It's usually minimum in any case and I would have to say that the converter for a given combo usually has more effect on ET.
10-14-2012, 07:45 PM
#15
The 700R4 was originally installed in mid 80's heavy, underpowered vehicles that needed a deep first gear to get moving, and OD with lockup to improve fuel economy.
If your car is underpowered, the 80e isn't going to make it faster, but if your 60e keeps blowing up, the 80e will make you happy...
I bet most people choose an 80e because they want an OD trans with lockup that won't break, not because they are trying to shave off a tenth or two at the track.
I switched from a TH400 to an 80e and it ran the same mph.
Last edited by twinturbo496; 10-14-2012 at 07:46 PM. Reason: typo
10-15-2012, 07:43 AM
#16
This...
The 700R4 was originally installed in mid 80's heavy, underpowered vehicles that needed a deep first gear to get moving, and OD with lockup to improve fuel economy.
If your car is underpowered, the 80e isn't going to make it faster, but if your 60e keeps blowing up, the 80e will make you happy...
I bet most people choose an 80e because they want an OD trans with lockup that won't break, not because they are trying to shave off a tenth or two at the track.
I switched from a TH400 to an 80e and it ran the same mph.
The 700R4 was originally installed in mid 80's heavy, underpowered vehicles that needed a deep first gear to get moving, and OD with lockup to improve fuel economy.
If your car is underpowered, the 80e isn't going to make it faster, but if your 60e keeps blowing up, the 80e will make you happy...
I bet most people choose an 80e because they want an OD trans with lockup that won't break, not because they are trying to shave off a tenth or two at the track.
I switched from a TH400 to an 80e and it ran the same mph.
10-16-2012, 09:53 AM
#17
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In the 80e I had a PT4000 and a 10 bolt with 3.42's
I ran faster with the 60e and an FTI 4000 and a 10 bolt with 3.23's
I think my problem was mostly due to having a low compression lq4 and L92's that were out of the box stock, putting compression around 9.4: 1 I think.
I ran faster with the 60e and an FTI 4000 and a 10 bolt with 3.23's
I think my problem was mostly due to having a low compression lq4 and L92's that were out of the box stock, putting compression around 9.4: 1 I think.
10-21-2012, 11:25 AM
#20
that is my "personal experience". in this guy's case. trapping 117 beforehand. my experience tells me he will go slower. really won't know until it's done. rarely anything dealing with mods is easy to determine.
