I know this has been beaten to death...
10-05-2012, 07:56 PM
#1
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I know this has been beaten to death... I just need to know about my window motor.....go to put it up and stops halfway...is it the motor or regulator that needs to be replaced?? I know the linkage need to be lubed when changing the motor.
10-05-2012, 09:30 PM
#4
As previously said if you can wait a minute or two and it goes up some more, your motor is toast. I think I paid around $40 from Advanced for mine last summer. You do not need to lube any linkage when replacing the motor. It is a straight swap, just make sure the teeth on the motor mesh by feel when you have your hands inside the door.
10-05-2012, 11:00 PM
#6
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I just wasn't aware that they had been redesigned at any point. I know Siemens used to make motors for these windows as well, and they also seemed to be good.
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10-06-2012, 01:03 AM
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10-06-2012, 04:57 AM
#9
Checking visually would be a good idea. I recall that Dorman marketed the old design before coming up with their new model.
There is a visual difference. While both sides of the case are different, the inside makes visible what Dorman has done to better seal the units.
Here is the old original GM design:
Here is the new Dorman:
The original design is very old - GM started putting this very motor on their cars in the late 60's!
The Dorman is supposed to be better sealed and it comes with 100% new parts whereas a lot of the Siemens motors I used to get were reman. (Even when the parts store said they were "new.") If you look at the pictures above, it looks like Dorman has a CNC machined case whereas the Siemens has a stamped and more open case.
There is a visual difference. While both sides of the case are different, the inside makes visible what Dorman has done to better seal the units.
Here is the old original GM design:
Here is the new Dorman:
The original design is very old - GM started putting this very motor on their cars in the late 60's!
The Dorman is supposed to be better sealed and it comes with 100% new parts whereas a lot of the Siemens motors I used to get were reman. (Even when the parts store said they were "new.") If you look at the pictures above, it looks like Dorman has a CNC machined case whereas the Siemens has a stamped and more open case.
10-07-2012, 08:26 AM
#11
The new design came about after the factory was shuttered, so there is no GM P/N.
Dorman's P/N is 742-101 but don't believe the picture on their web site. (Its the old design in the picture.) Once you get the part from a store, you can look at it and verify the new design and casting.
Dorman's P/N is 742-101 but don't believe the picture on their web site. (Its the old design in the picture.) Once you get the part from a store, you can look at it and verify the new design and casting.
10-07-2012, 01:17 PM
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The new design came about after the factory was shuttered, so there is no GM P/N.
Dorman's P/N is 742-101 but don't believe the picture on their web site. (Its the old design in the picture.) Once you get the part from a store, you can look at it and verify the new design and casting.
Dorman's P/N is 742-101 but don't believe the picture on their web site. (Its the old design in the picture.) Once you get the part from a store, you can look at it and verify the new design and casting.
I have a couple of Siemens motors laying around that I bought many years ago for another car but never used them. I remember having good luck in the past with these, but maybe I'll just stick to this new Dorman design if I ever need additional motors for either of mine.
10-07-2012, 07:57 PM
#14
It may not be a "bad motor". If it goes back up after waiting; then my vote is the thermal resistor. Ive bypassed the resistor on 4 motors and all of them have worked better than before (faster). Do a search on Google and you should find a few write ups. Worth a shot if you have the time to try out this method before purchasing new.
10-08-2012, 02:03 AM
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Strange, I had that same problem with my last work van, windows always would go down but had to fight to get it up more than half way.
If it was a winding, why no fight to go down, just up?
Tested switches ok.
-?
If it was a winding, why no fight to go down, just up?
Tested switches ok.
-?
10-08-2012, 02:25 AM
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I tried a bypass.
I cut insulation and with a voltmeter measured power on the leads just before they went into the case when it wasn't working.
Wiggle the wires.
Big hammer.
Nothing worked but time - sometimes, and then lifting the window when it was so it had a higher chance of closing faster.
I drove around with a screw driver wedged in the switch in the up position, for when it sometimes suddenly decided to work.
I hate when a company provides a vehicle that should have stayed at the wreckers, is loud & unsafe, and they expect graditude & miracles.
I finally quit and it's no longer my problem
I cut insulation and with a voltmeter measured power on the leads just before they went into the case when it wasn't working.
Wiggle the wires.
Big hammer.
Nothing worked but time - sometimes, and then lifting the window when it was so it had a higher chance of closing faster.
I drove around with a screw driver wedged in the switch in the up position, for when it sometimes suddenly decided to work.
I hate when a company provides a vehicle that should have stayed at the wreckers, is loud & unsafe, and they expect graditude & miracles.
I finally quit and it's no longer my problem
10-08-2012, 08:37 AM
#18
Bypassing the thermal resistor will "work" but its not a very good idea as it can lead to tearing of the fiberglass that makes up the door. The resistor was put there for a reason...
The new Dorman motor design seems like it better protects the resistor from contamination and more importantly - your not getting someone else's reman resistor.
The new Dorman motor design seems like it better protects the resistor from contamination and more importantly - your not getting someone else's reman resistor.
10-08-2012, 09:33 PM
#19
one last thing you can do is to check your connector at the motor....over time the metal connecters open up and gives you intermitent power to the motor...I had issues with both motors freezing especially going up....i did the thermal resistor mod and it helped but still had problems with the window freezing up....then i figured out that the connections were not making sufficient contact so I squeezed the contacts closer together on the connector and also put a slight twist on the flat metal connections on the motor itself....last thing I did was wrap the connector to the motor with black tape just to make sure the whole connection remained tight and secure.... presto !! fixed my my freezing motor problem on both windows this has been over a year now...both motors are the original motors ....give it a shot...you got nothing to lose....best of luck to you