Caseythefalcon

iTrader: (1)

So I have an lt1 and obviously a bunch of idiots were on the cooling system development team. Because I'm flushing my radiator. I drained it completely (left it draining overnight!) And I wake up and start pouring the flush stuff in it. After I pour the flush stuff in it, I start pouring the water in. Well the damn system decides to only take in like 5 quarts?! So I start it up to let the thermostat open up. Well my tempature gauge (that I replaced yesterday before the flush) decides to not fix the problem. So I don't know how hot the car is! Does anyone know how the wiring is supposed to be from the engine coolant temperature sensor?

Caseythefalcon

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone know where it wires from the sensor on the head?

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

Uhh what was the problem?

The coolant in the radiator makes up a small portion of the coolant in the whole system. Draining it and refilling won't do a whole lot. You need to do a true flush where you hook a hose up to it and run fresh water through while it's running. You also need to make sure you get the air out of the heads when refilling.

94Z28Joe

Whats was the original problem? have you opened any of the bleeder screws to let all the air out?

Reckless

iTrader: (9)

And how does this belong in LS Internal Engine?

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

I think hes asking where the coolant temperature sensor is, and it is located under the exhaust manifold on the driver side of the block.

shbox

The gauge sensor has one wire that goes to the dash on the f-body.
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#ect

I love it when people start out blaming the GM engineers, LOL. The radiator is pretty small. How much do you think it really holds? Draining the radiator does not drain the whole cooling system.

97z2801ss

iTrader: (4)

Lol dude drained the radiator and is raging at gm engineers... You have to pull the knock sensor (at least on lt1s) to do a true flush/drain. If its different on ls1s you still have to pull something else to get the coolant out of the block, you think all the fluid just magically gathers at the drain spout from the far reaches all over the motor?

Plug in a scanner to see your actual ECT, and to tell which sensors are functioning properly... I.e. if your PCM temp reading matches your gauge temp reading. I'd be able to tell you exactly how the wiring ect. Goes but I know lt1s, not ls1s.

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

where does this drain it while its running idea come from?????

pull the tstat and go to town with a garden hose why on earth youd do it running is beyond me.....youd have air pockets up the wazoo

shbox

I am reconsidering that driving it into a lake would get all the air pockets out.

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

!!

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

If it were in a lake you could leave the radiator off and just let the waterpump pump lake water.

93Euphoria

Just another guy blaming the LT1 for his confusion. BTW can you answer the question? What was the original problem?

andysc

iTrader: (6)

Whenever I change/ flush coolant, I totally drain it removing the knock sensor along with draining the radiator, open both air bleed screws in hoses, once all coolant is out, replace knock sensor, tighten drain on radiator, remove the thermostat housing and thermostat, pour deionized water and antifreeze into opening where thermostat was until coolant is almost overflowng thermostat area of water pump, let air bleed and repeat till all air is out of block. Also be carefull not to spill coolant/water on opti. Replace thermostat and housing tighten down to specs. fill radiator with coolant/ water. Start engine, let warm up and monitor bleeder screws. Close bleeder screws when coolant starts pouring out of them. Follow these steps and you will never have air in the system or problems bleeding lt1 f body cars. Also does help to have the front wheels of car on ramps to have radiator higher than engine.

hth

andy schuck