stherngent

iTrader: (7)

I bought a 160* thermostat for my 2000 z-28 camaro an the tabs on it stick out to far to fit, what the heck? When i ordered it, it said it was for a 98'-02' f-body, Anyone know whats wrong?

usnfenix

iTrader: (11)

Go pick one up from autozone if that one doesn't fit. There only like 5 bucks.

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

And get a stock temp one.

stherngent

iTrader: (7)

Why a stock one? If that is the case I'll just keep the one thats in it, it is stock an works fine. I thought the whole theory behind it was to keep the car running a lil cooler so it would perform better?

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

No reason for it. Your engine is designed to operate at 185-210 ish. That's where it's most efficient and makes the most power. The only reason to have a lower t stat is if your running high compression or something to that nature that causes your car to run above 210 or so. Then the 160 stat becomes useful by opening sooner and controlling the temps before they get too high.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

These are not old SBCs with metal intakes that heat soak, nor the need for excessive timing advance to make best possibile power. A 160° t-stat has no place in your average LS1 application, IMO. There are some exceptions, but not many.

usnfenix

iTrader: (11)

yup. its in the bullshit mod class. lots of companies know that there are people that buy cars and want to mod them but dont know much at all about them ( not saying you dont know anything lol) so they produce products that advertise HP increases and will make your engine run better when they themselves know theres no real way your going to be able to prove that it works, just that you get the placebo effect that yea may car seems to be running stronger/faster. the SLP smooth bellows is an example of this mod. 60 bucks for a piece of plastic supposedly giving you 5-7 hp. straight bullshit.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I agree.

I think they put the decimal in the wrong place on those numbers. What they *should* have advertised is a gain of 0.5-0.7 horsepower.

stherngent

iTrader: (7)

lol thankls guys

2002 blue z28

iTrader: (1)

Hmm.... according to my tuner I gained about 20 rwhp with the thermostat after it was tuned.

usnfenix

iTrader: (11)

no offense to your tuner but i highly doubt that. 20 rwhp form a $5 thermostat? we'd of known about that by now and would be the most popular mod.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

What's wrong is, you didn't take anybody's advice to
just forget about a thermostat when any cooling issue
you might have, lies elsewhere.

Send it back before you get it wet, and work on
whatever the real problem is.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Your gains came from the tune, not the t-stat.

2002 blue z28

iTrader: (1)

I'm not saying he's right. He told me these motors make all their power in the timing, and with a 160* stat it would get more timing in. Or something like that. I was pulling 325 rwhp with all my mods excluding the stat. 344 with it.

2002 blue z28

iTrader: (1)

Ya, that's what I was trying to get at.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I think he is confusing LS1s with Gen 1 SBCs. LS1 heads are extremely efficient and don't require nearly as much timing as old SBCs to make premium power. 36-38° would be the norm for old SBC heads (non-vortec); LS1 heads wouldn't want/need anywhere near that much timing.

usnfenix

iTrader: (11)

i thought you were saying that you were tuned then made 325, then made 344 with only change being a 160 thermo. to which i would have called bull to your tuner lol. he is wrong about the ls1 making its power in the timing however. although i can see how he can assume so.

lsxformie

I had the same problem. I had to buy a drop in thermostat. On a cool night when my motor is running 160* It seems to pull a little better but that could all be in my head..lol

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

That's because the outside air temp is cooler, and therefore the intake air chrage is cooler/more dense, thus more power. It's not because of the coolant temps.